Ideal white/steak combos
The half bottle (meaning: a full bottle whose top half got consumed the day before) of 1997 Arnaud Ente Mersault 1er Cru La Goutte d'Or was calling me from the storage.
In the menu: grilled tri-tip steak.
My vivid recollections from the day before were crying for a YAY.
The reviled commentators words, engraved in digital stone, went as follows:
Allen M.:"A mineral-infused nose and the beginning of subtle honey notes are followed by good, full, rich, slightly warm and alcoholic flavors supported by better than average acidity for the vintage plus a long elegant finish. I really like the mouth feel here and this is very stylish juice, especially in the context of '97. Tasted: Mar 16, 2003 Score: 88 Drink: Now to say 2007"
WSchmoozer: "What a seducer of a wine. Intense but harmonious, this delicious white Burgundy tastes like a great pastry dessert, showing lemon, cream, pear, toasted oak and caramelized apple flavors, even while maintaining a racy acidity and mineral tones. Fat and long on the finish. Best from 2003 through 2012. –PM Score: 94"
Da Guru: "The 1997 Meursault Goutte d'Or can best be described as the En l'Ormeau on steroids. Earth, minerals, and white fruits bordering on sur-maturite explode from the glass. Quite powerful, this glycerin-imbued, oily, satin-textured, medium-to-full-bodied wine is crammed with sweet plums, toasted hazelnuts, and the same salty quality I noticed in the preceding offering. It should be succulent to drink from its release through at least 2005."
Needless to say, the "pastry dessert" commentary is way off. But I'll definitely endorse the lots of glycerin, which is what you want for a grilled steak, I guess? Long finish. Golden radiant hue. Surmaturité? Yeah, give or take.
Bottom line ( literally ): excellent match. Got other white/steak combos?
I was going to mention Riesling as well, in is more robust variations; I think the grape works very nicely with beef. The amount of residual sugar would depend on the preparation -- I'd want something on the drier end of the traditional German spectrum for a simple oven-roasted beef, for example, whereas a green-pepper sauce would want more sweetness.
Not that I've ever tried the combo (or expect to) but, in the Chez Panisse Menu Cookbook, Alice Waters waxes enthusiastic about Jerimiah Tower's pairing of an entrecôte of beef (served with potatoes cooked in butter and duck fat with mushrooms) and the 1955 and 1967 Château d'Yquem.
I like '80's Haute Brion Blanc with steak, especially with a seafood side and a crusty bread with creamy cheese.
I think the older white Burgs and Bordeaux blanc's are really nice with lighter beef dishes in the summer as long as the beef is not heavily "grilled".
But, for a fat, peppery steak with beautiful grill marks...give me a nice, big, red, round bordeaux!