Venice Fot Three days for the Biennale
Any recommendations of small seafood/vegetarian -friendly Chowhoundish, slow foodish restos in Venice for next month will be greatly appreciated.
Venice has very few vegetarian restaurants per se. On most menus, there will probably be vegetarian antipasti, vegetable risotto and pasta, though many will use a meat stock. Much of Venetian cooking is seafood based, therefore, you will have no problem finding seafood on just about any menu. Alla Zucca has large and delicous selection of vegetable items; the rest of the menu has poultry and meat but no seafood. The cooking is eclectic with some foreign ingredients, therefore, at times doesn't feel particular Venetian.
I would search this board for the many previous post on Venice. Your criterias of small, Chowhoundish and slow foodish describe many places in Venice. If you can be specific on budget, ambience, neighborhood, lunch/dinner, etc, I am sure you will get many good replies.
Stella Aniche in the Ghetto area (nicely low key still) is out of SlowFoods and known for their seafood risotto. I saw lovely vegetables being served on tables around me. Young people running the place. I am sure they are on to vegetarian wishes.
In terms of finding your desired menu, almost every restaurant in Venice specializes is seafood, fewer specialize in vegetarian main courses, but there will be some available, and usually good contorni depending on what is in season. There should be some dishes (maybe risotto or lasagna) based on the wonderful radicchios of the region or the funghi porcini, in season in October. Look at what is in the market and ask your restaurants if these are serving these. Also in the market, try some of the wonderful moscato grapes (different sorts) available at this time, pears and apples which come in in October.
`Its probably good to get out of the Bienniale neighborhood and the main San Marco area to avoid the crowds, That being said, there are a number of good and not too expensive places down at that end of Castello Pizzeria dai Tosi (which has other things) and also the inexpensive parish restaurant on the square in Santa Elena, There are also a string or restaurants on relatively non-touristic (usually) Viale Garibaldi, near the festival, including Nuovo Galeon (Ive not been to this one.
Id recommend Osteria alla Frasca in Castello, the previously-mentioned Anice Stellato, on a quiet back canal in Cannareggio and alla Fontana, on the Canarreggio canal near the ghetto as three small places that mights work for you. Also Alla Zucca which has rich veg dishes and meat but no seafood.
The Rough Guide map is a good one and it has a lot of fine eating places including some of the above marked on it, so if you have the map you can eat as you explore.
Many thanks to all!
I hope I can reciprocate someday to inquiries about New York or coastal Delmarva in the USA.