Two Full days of Eating In Chicago - A REVIEW of L2o, Orange, Blackbird, Frontera Grill, Lula Cafe, and The Gage.

[uhockey]

Reviews will follow and all reviews with pictures embedded can be found at my blog. http://uhockey.blogspot.com/

[uhockey]

Orange on Roscoe -

Having already visited both locations of the famous Bongo Room, m.henry, Over Easy, and a number of bake-shops on previous Chicago visits the decision was made to finally give the Orange franchise a visit on my most recent trip. While not as highly rated by many foodies, a look at Orange's menu and kitschy concepts led me to believe it would be a fun experience and driving in bright and early from Ohio my sister and I opted for the Roscoe location because I'd heard the food there was the most "consistently good." Arriving around 8:45am Chicago time we found easy parking merely a block away and made our way to the entirely empty restaurant - a stark difference from the loud and jam-packed previous Chicago breakfast experiences.

True to its name the inner decor of the restaurant was quite eclectic with wall art depicting carrots, abstracts, and figures all in varying shades of Orange - even the ceiling consisted of ornate peach tile. Standing up from his own stack of pancakes at the bar our quirky server seated us quickly and provided us menus while explaining the daily specials - including mango frushi and the "back to school" pancake flight. Returning shortly with glasses of water (oddly containing a slice of cucumber) he next took our drink orders - tea for my sister and "orange coffee" for myself.

Returning with our drinks my sister was presented with a small pot of hot water and a choice of 6 tea bags - choosing a chai she noted it was "alright" but was disappointed with the small selection and only receiving one tea bag - much different from the box of teas at Bogo Room. For myself the orange coffee was true to its name and tasted like a strange blend of fresh squeezed OJ and mildly acidic coffee - while I'm not sure how this concept was derived I will admit that the interesting tang was a surprise and I drank a good 32-40oz during the course of the meal.

Arriving ~20 minutes after placing orders (and after another 5 groups had arrived in the restaurant) our food was presented fresh and hot and in much larger portions than expected. Unable to decide on just two options my sister and I each opted for a dish while also ordering a plate of the pan seared oatmeal to share. Beginning with the oatmeal we were served two large slices that were creamy and hot on the inside while crispy and singed on the outside. Made by first baking the oats in apple cider the dish had a distinctly autumnal flavor to it that was only enhanced by the addition of fresh maple syrup. Accompanying the oat-toast was a melange of cranberries, apples, raisins, and pears. The most unassuming of the choices but the best of our selections I was extremely impressed by the oatmeal and will be looking to replicate the dish in my own home in the future.

The second choice, the selection of my sister, was the Chai Tea French Toast featuring large/thick slices of brioche infused with chai tea and stuffed with Ricotta cheese served in a large bowl over chai tea latte reduction and then topped with honey & caramelized apples. Well composed and actually quite well balanced this dish was absolutely enormous and clearly more than enough for one. While I personally didn't sense the chai as much as I'd have liked, the creamy ricotta was so well blended that it nearly seemed to be part of the bread and the honey/apple mix was quite well done with small hints of spice and salt balancing the overall sweetness of the dish quite nicely.

The final selection, mine, was the Back to School Pancake Flight - a weekly rotating theme at Orange with four stacks of three silver-dollar pancakes, each stack featuring a different batter and/or topping. Given my love of both tasting menus and pancakes I figured this option was a can't miss - unfortunately I was incorrect. With options including "breakfast of champions - buttermilk cakes infused with bacon and topped with light yellow cheddar mousse," "energy rush - orange coffee infused buttermilk cakes topped with chocolate marshmallow whipped cream and cocoa powder," "lunchroom - buttermilk cakes with peanut butter cream and homemade raspberry jelly plus banana whipped cream," and "teachers pet - buttermilk cakes with poached red apple in red wine with apple cider-cinnamon reduction" I expected greatness and variety but instead received chewy similarity. Boring and chalky pancakes, minimal amounts of topping, and variation dictated only by the "cream or mousse" on each I found myself having difficulty differentiating the energy rush from the breakfast of champions and the teachers pet was so flavorless I questioned the presence of apples. Admittedly the Lunchroom was excellent - if I ever returned I'd order the jelly roll pancakes based on this.

In the end I have to say I was largely underwhelmed by Orange and this all had to do with something I'd heard from others - inconsistency. While some dishes were excellent others were sub-par, while the scene was nice the techno-pop music was loud and quite off-putting, while some portions were generous the skimpy tea service was unimpressive at best. While Orange is indeed interesting and unique compared to other cities, I simply don't think it stands out enough compared to other venerable Chicago breakfast/brunch options to warrant a strong recommendation or return visit.

[lbs]

Hmmm - my favorite combo in the morning is a grapefruit or an orange while drinking black coffee. I would like to try that flavor of coffee.

[ms. chow]

If you've tried adding a shot of Cointreau in coffee, it is similar in taste, but not as concentrated.

[lbs]

LMAO! That would be an excellent way to jump start my work day!

[uhockey]

Blackbird -

Food and Wine loves him. The Beard Awards love him. Chicago seems infatuated with each restaurant he and his partners open. The preceding refer to two persons in the Chicago culinary landscape and it was with those thoughts in mind that I decided to make my lunch reservations for my two days in Chicago - Blackbird and Frontera Grill. Having heard much of Chef Paul Kahan the influences derived from both his father's smokehouse and his time at Bayless's Topolobampo I had high expectations going into the experience - less art, yet high end ingredients presented in an artistic manner. Browsing the menus I even went out of my way to ask if any of the dinner items could possibly be prepped for lunch and was informed that since the chef himself would be in-house that day it would be perfectly acceptable.

Arriving 5 minutes late for our noon reservation we were greeted by a most-pleasant hostess and taken to a great table near the front of the room. Water was poured and menus were delivered - both the daily $22 prix fixe and the standard lunch menu. Almost on cue the waiter appeared at our table and stated "are you ready for the foie gras?" My sister laughed at me, typically, while I confirmed the fact. Browsing the room I was very impressed by the modern yet refined feel - the place nearly felt "casual" while the open kitchen teamed with life in back, Chef Kahan proudly working alongside his team.

Orders were soon placed and I was informed that the chef would be making the foie gras and sweetbreads per his inspiration - not technically per the dinner menu. "Even better" I thought. Sitting for another few moments as the restaurant slowly began to fill up we were next served two types of bread - a hearty and smoky rye along with a whole grain bread with at least 2-3 types of seeds and subtle hints of spice. Accompanying the breads was a house-made butter with sage, tarragon, and perhaps basil - a little too hard to spread at first but wonderful given time to warm up.

Before getting into the food I will note that while professional, the service at Blackbird was invariably slow on this day due to the fact that a server had called in sick while another didn't make it to work until later in the shift - aside from delivery of dishes our waiter really never checked on us and the delay between bread and appetizer was 30 minutes, appetizer and main nearly 45 minutes, and main and dessert another 35 minutes. While the scenery, food, and company was great I must say things felt someone prolonged and we were trying to make it up to Wrigley for the Cubs game by 2:00pm - a fact they were indeed aware of.

Arriving first, my two appetizers and my sister's first part of the prix fixe - a bonus being that Chef Kahan himself personally came to the table to present and explain his two lunch creations (clearly not expected by our server Christopher who arrived ~45 seconds later to describe the dishes.) Beginning with my sister's, Chilled cuttlefish noodles with avocado, red onion jam and puffed buttermilk was absolutely revolutionary with well poached cuttlefish cephalopods spiral-cut into "noodles" and paired with creamy avocado, sweetened red onion puree, and "crispy" buttermilk chips - a nice juxtaposition of textures, sweet and savory, brine and earth.

The first of my items, pan-fried sautéed veal sweetbreads with smoked potato salad and microgreens was another winner with the succulent gland melting in the mouth yet given plenty of balance by the crispy panko-style coating. Not oily in the least, salted only enough to enhance, and well paired with a creamy potato and microgreen salad with heavy hints of smoke and undertones of apple and spice. Generally not a fan of potato salad I must admit I was almost more impressed by it than the actual sweetbreads which is saying a lot.

The second item, roasted Hudson Valley foie gras with peaches, peppers, and tomatoes was new to me - I'd never had roasted foie, only seared and terrine. The chef stated he wanted to do "something different" and if this dish was "different" then I'm all for it. Somewhat more "dry" than the standard foie, the lobe was easily cut with a knife and was perfectly prepared with no veins, strings, or discolored areas to be found. Using the acidity of the peppers and tomatoes (also roasted,) and the sweetness of the peaches (grilled,) to offset the unctuous liver proved a perfect compliment and the chef resisted more common presentations that rely on a bread of crunchy component to add texture - instead allowing the fruits and vegetables to stand on their own with the liver.

As noted above, significant time passed between our appetizers and mains - while the bread and water servers visited our main server never did. Finally, once again delivered from a member of the kitchen staff, our mains arrived - the first (a part of the prix fixe) was wood grilled California sturgeon with gold bar squash, cucumber, bbq onion, zucchini bread, candied olive and it once again shined. Three 1-2oz slices of fish, perfectly grilled outside and barely touched inside simply flaked apart and melted in the mouth while the mellow squash and crisp cucumber were accented by the sweetened onion. Adding texture - a "zucchini bread" that was described to us when the dishes were collected as dehydrated zucchini bread cut into croutons (I describe it as delicious) and olives as sweet as honey - unique and unexpected, but also great.

For myself, I selected the classic "croque madame" with house-cured ham, Swiss, red onion, fried egg and pommes frites simply because I couldn't pass it up when I saw it on the menu. Clearly not exactly classic given the onions and cheese selection, but quite good none the less. Less heavy that the versions with sauce Mornay at Bouchon or Butler & the Chef and although not quite as tasty, very good. The fries, an item I generally don't prefer, were on par with Keller's famous pommes and much better than Doug's raved duck-fat fries in the Chicago culinary landscape.

Again a significant delay separated us from dessert - dishes which were quite small and the only "overpriced" part of the experience - but flavors and textures that were absolutely worth the wait and the price. For my sister, warm walnut cake with NY674 apples, brown butter gastrique, and fromage blanc ice cream was definitely as good as it sounded with smooth and thick slices of spicy cake well tempered by the sweet apples, creamy yet acidic gastrique, and creamy cheesecake-esque ice cream. Reading up on the apple after the meal was additionally interesting - apparently a high-vitamin C apple created through selective breeding to be browning-resistant.

For myself the dessert choice was a no brainer - "haute cornbread" is a dream of mine. Entitled sweetcorn bavarois with cornbread pain perdu, pecans, maple sherbet the dish featured a sweetcorn Bavarian cream/pudding with shortbread base alongside chunks of brioche style cornbread accented with cinnamon and honey then topped with candied pecans. Alongside this amazing presentation was a sherbet that tasted like the very essence of maple syrup - I found the sherbet particularly thrilling in its texture as many maple ice creams seem too "milky" to accurately portray the maple flavor as it is traditionally seen in syrup or molasses.

When the meal was finished my sister and I both sat quite satisfied with the experience - particularly the food, but agreed that the speed of the meal was quite prolonged - other tables on either side of us were also commenting on the same. While the seasonal Intelligentsia options did seem interesting, we instead opted for the bill so that we'd not miss too much more of the ballgame (a quick trip on the L got us there by the bottom of the 3rd.) Discussing the meal on the way to the game it amazed me most how much we each kept coming back to the supporting aspects of the dish as much as the main component - the zucchini croutons, the potato salad, etc - the attention to detail was truly stupendous. Service issues aside I absolutely loved the meal from top to bottom and look forward to dining Avec and the Publican on future visits.

[ms. chow]

Haven't been to Blackbird for lunch in months. Boss of my boss is in town this Friday, and i'm glad that i was in charge of picking a lunch spot. Service snafu be damned. We're lunching with boss of the boss, who cares if it takes 4 hours? lol

Great writeups as always, uhockey.

[uhockey]

Thanks - as always, just trying to give back to the local hounds who prevent culinary misadventures. :-)

[uhockey]

L2o -

An obvious fan of food blogs, French chefs, and seafood I will fully admit that I've been a stalker of Chef Laurent Gras' L2O Blog and Facebook page since shortly after the restaurant actually opened for business - hype, smart marketing, call it what you like - the concept was and still is intriguing and the restaurant's progressive approach to seafood is something to behold as the chef discusses his methods and concepts. Having trained with legends of French Cuisine from Ducasse to Savoy and having already spent time in San Francisco, New York, and Japan it also happens that Gras is an exercise fanatic and competition-level bicyclist who is more than willing to share with the world the way he eats on a daily basis - much healthier than the average chef, for sure. Given his accolades (most recently 4 stars from the Tribune and nominations from The Beard Awards for best new restaurant) plus the above it was an obvious choice to visit L2O after already experiencing Tru, Moto, Spiaggia, Alinea, and Charlie Trotter's - the "veterans" of Chicago's haute dining scene. As a backdrop to the visit - a weekend celebrating my sister's birthday that would also include a U2 concert the following night.

Having contacted the restaurant ahead of our visit to inform them of the special occasion my e-mail was fielded graciously by a Mr. Anthony Cournia (who actually stopped by to say hello during the meal) and service from e-mail to the end of the meal was stellar - on par with the best of the best in Chicago and elsewhere in the United States. Arriving early we valeted the car at the Belden Stratford hotel in Chicago’s Lincoln Park district with ease. Making our way in we took a couple of pictures before entering the restaurant and were promptly greeted by the gorgeous dining room, subtle music, and pleasant hostess - within moments we were led to a nice 4-top where we were seated side-by-side with a full view of the room currently almost empty but soon to be filled with a refined energy (not loud at all - well spaced tables to be sure) and full house.

Greeted shortly after seating by our pleasant yet unobtrusive (think Providence or Alinea versus The French Laundry or Trotter's) server, Kara, our water was filled and the menus were presented and explained - extraordinarily unique rubberized menus featuring "Happy Birthday Erika" on the bottom left that were later signed by Chef Gras. Left to decide between the tete a tete, autumn tasting, or 4-course prix fixe we quickly decided on the tasting with one substitution and one additional item for myself - making sure this was okay with the Chef our server returned shortly and handed us a card describing some of the fishes we'd be experiencing and refilling our water.

Within moments of placing our orders a man emerged from the kitchen with a first unannounced course described as mussel with microgreens, basil, sesame oil. Amusingly the amuse confused my sister who'd never experienced such a thing stating "I thought the first course was salmon?" After explaining the practice to her we both got our first taste of what was to come. Appropriately briny and perfectly trimmed the mussel was well accented by the potent basil yet smoothed out significantly by the hearty oil - simple and intelligent the dish highlighted each ingredient without allowing any specific flavor to overwhelm the others.

Our second amuse (my sister liking this concept of "free" food) was delivered shortly after the first and this time featured a perfect fresh-water shrimp resting in a pool of spicy salsa verde and topped with micro cilantro. Spanish in influence and actually quite hot on the tongue I was impressed that the taste of the shrimp managed to emerge amongst the spices and while I didn't like it as much as the mussel I was suitably impressed by the presentation and quality of the shrimp - a variety I'd never tasted in the past.

Following the amuses the bread server made the first (of many) visits to our table. As many have noted before (including Gras via his blog,) the bread program at L2O is a source of pride and each bread is made freshly in house 2-3 times per dinner service with different options sometimes appearing later in service. During our evening the initial breads included a buttery pain au Lait, a savory Asiago, a crunchy mini baguette, a hearty wheat epi (similar to the version at Bouchon,) and a bitter and rustic country bread - later in the service this selection was joined by the much praised (and absolutely incredible) rosemary croissant - likely as much butter as choux. The butter, served inverted and flipped over at presentation, was a hearty and grassy blend made from local artisan cow's cream - not quite as good as The French Laundry's famed option, but a close runner up - and the quality of breads was hands and feet above that at TFL or Alinea.

Kicking off the tasting was "Salmon" featuring Line caught salmon, Earl Grey, Ginger Gum, Brioche Crouton, Roe. Reading the description on the blog I assumed we'd receive this dish and was not disappointed. Featuring Earl Grey and sugar cured salmon that is finished in a cold smoker the result dish is as meaty and heavy as one would expect from salmon yet well balanced by accents of pepper, smoke, and bergamot. Accompanying the fish was a cube of gingered brioche and "gumdrop" of ginger topped with a single egg of roe. Intriguingly the gum was largely flavorless until consumed with the roe at which point the salty egg released the potent tones. Well executed and beautifully balanced I found this to be a great opener.

The second dish, "Tuna" was deemed the favorite of the entire meal by my sister. Featuring crimson Ahi cubes each dotted or splashed with either dashi, crunchy black olive, nicoise gelee, or yuzu and topped with "Tuna Snow" (frozen toro run through a snow cone machine) the overall effect was a sampling of at least 5 different flavors of tuna with each maintaining the familiar taste of the fish but accenting it in a new and unexpected manner. The snow itself literally melted in the mouth and gave the dish a silky smooth feel that one does not usually associate with fish.

For course three the listed item was "Tofu" - a texture I tend to avoid (though I do enjoy Tempeh) and as such I requested the chef make a substitution at his whim. The dish my sister received consisted of Tofu, Cucumber, Jalapeno, Shiso, Itogaki and from my one small bite all I can say is that I made a wise choice. Per my sister the dish was actually quite good with the dried tuna interacting well with the spice and minty tones. I was glad she enjoyed it - I enjoyed looking at it.

For my third course I received "Escolar," one of the raw menu items featuring "Escolar Jamon," Espelette, and Ice Lettuce. Featuring three slices of meaty butterfish prepared "ham-style," by curing with espelette pepper. Unexpected for sure, the dry curing of the fish actually mellowed out the rich mackerel-like nature of the fish while texturally very much resembling a quality sliced ham. While largely unnecessary, the crystal ice lettuce did add a degree of contrast and presented a flavor I'd not really experienced - somewhere between endive and cabbage.

Course four was named "Shimaji" and was a new one for myself. Apparently a species of jack-fish imported from near Brazil the extremely rich fish was paired with Red Miso, Breakfast Radish, Daikon, and Soy Salt in what was the most "traditional" of the nights dishes - and also the weakest in both mine and my sister's opinion. While there was nothing wrong with the preparation, I just felt it lacked the inspiration of the other dishes and the bitter/earthy tones of the Breakfast Radish overwhelmed any nuance that may have been offered by the miso. An attractive dish for sure and the last of the "raw" courses, this dish was served with Chopsticks, further emphasizing it's roots in traditional sushi/sashimi.

Dish five "Scallop" was our first foray into Chef Gras' warmed fishes and it was a great success - potentially my favorite part of the tasting menu. Featuring a large and perfectly prepared diver scallop (cooked outside, barely warmed within) accompanied by Blueberries and Blueberry gelee plus Sorrel and finished tableside with a ginger jus each flavor met the tongue and palate with great aplomb yet entirely without overwhelming the other complimentary flavors. Sweet and ripe berries, acidic and leafy sorrel, smooth and spicy ginger, and fleshy but briny scallop were each well represented and a wonderful melange of textures and flavors left us in awe - given the opportunity I could've eaten this by the bowl.

Dish six, entitled "Tagliolini-Lobster," was a suitable follow-up to the Scallop and continued a series of sweet yet savory dishes that marked the midpoint of the menu. A flawless sous-vide tail perched atop chestnut noodles and resting in a salty broth the dish was further enhanced and balanced out by the addition of a bitey yet smooth Port and foie gras reduction. Another exploration of divergent textures and flavors I found the pasta an extremely interesting texture as its al dente texture gave way to a smooth yet nutty note when chewed.

Dish seven, a segue of sort into the heavier finishing dishes, was the much praised Arctic Char. Coupling the flakey and light fish with a Champagne and Brown Butter broth I felt the dish was very well composed to highlight the trout-like taste while the preparation paid attention to the more "salmonesque" texture by coupling the fish with a zucchini and pea "flan" topped with millimeter thick slices of zucchini skin for texture. Unctuous without being heavy I think this was my second favorite tasting menu item of the night and my sister agreed.

As my sister noted she was starting to feel "a little full" she was fortunately given a break in the action when I received my supplemental dish from the prix fixe menu. Having seen the dish presented to other tables already I have to admit I'd been looking forward to it from the beginning of the meal and when the spacer dish appeared in front of my sister I couldn't help but smile. "Foie Gras, Asparagus, Rhubarb, Bee Pollen, Crystallized Butter" arrived and it was simply a sight to behold - both the dish and the smile on my face. Featuring a large spun-cloud of sweet cotton candy forming a "cave" of sorts over a melody of seared foie, poached asparagus, crunchy rhubarb, rhubarb gel and then covered with bee pollen, edible flowers, and crystallized butter - to date it is my favorite savory presentation of all time and also my favorite foie dish since The French Laundry.

Eating slowly - mostly out of a desire to savor the dish but also because cotton candy is hard to cut with a knife - I think the dish took me a good 25 minutes to consume and while my sister was glad for the break she had to chuckle at my reaction as a lady across the restaurant rose a forkful of cotton to me with a smile as a sort of "toast." Having had cotton candy foie gras at the Bazaar in LA earlier in the year I must say this presentation was vastly superior and worth every penny of the $35 supplement with the perfectly prepared foie gras soaking into the base-layer of the cotton candy and marrying perfectly with the crispy/snappy vegetables - even the bee pollen and flowers added to the dish with their unique tones blending well with the cotton candy to create an aromatic essence on the palate.

Getting back to the program I must admit that I was impressed by the chef's decision for placement of the foie - just prior to beginning the heavier savories. Dish eight, "Halibut," arrived shortly and my first thought was - wow, that is pretty darn big for a tasting portion. Featuring an extraordinary piece of soft and supple halibut atop snappy and sweet white Asparagus, the dish was topped with a "brioche toast chip" and four discs of chorizo gel. While half of the dish was bathed in a smoky chorizo stock, the dish was finished tableside with the addition of a creamy sweet corn puree to the other half. Clearly meant to raise thoughts of the grill I found this dish to be a brilliant balance of vegetal flavors and smoky savories and was additionally impressed by the manner in which the clean halibut was enhanced in one way by the pork stock and in a totally different manner by the corn - the dish ate like two separate dishes in one and the portion allowed one to "mix and match" various flavors and textures quite nicely.

For our ninth dish, “Pork Belly,” I figured it would be met with mixed approval. While I myself love a well prepared pork dish of any sort, my sister generally does not enjoy fatty pork and much prefers bacon textures. Sure enough, the pork belly with crispy Skin fried in duck fat, with Yukon Potato and Black Truffle was delivered as expected – salty, savory, fatty, and flawless. After a bite my sister noted that she would eat the skin but deferred on the rest of the pork and passed it to myself. Feigning an apologetic look I indulged happily on the dish. Potentially a tad over salted with the pork reduction I was pleasantly surprised by the manner in which the earthy tones and aromas of the truffles shined through. While my sister didn’t love the pork, we both agreed that the accompanying potato was a work of genius – essentially a caramelized cylinder of buttery potato paste made crispy on the outside and piped full with creamy emulsion of potato and cream.

Finishing the savories on a lighter note, course 10 was “Hiramasa.” Served raw on a wooden bridge along with accompanying chopsticks and a heated bowl the second jack-fish of our menu was delivered as a traditional Shabu-Shabu with Konbu Chicken Bouillon. Accompanying the fish and broth were sesame bonito sauce, king oyster mushrooms, shiso, and onion. Here the focus was entirely on the texture and flavor of the fish and a “how you like it” approach. Three slices of Amberjack allowed ample opportunity to experiment with varying cooking times, additions to the broth or bite, and textures. While my sister preferred her fish more thoroughly cooked, my ideal turned out to be a piece of fish and a mushroom in a single bite cooked for ~5 seconds and dipped in the sauce. Focusing so much on French and Italian cuisine in recent dining trips I nearly forgot how amazing a simple fresh fish can be.

Once again my sister noted she was getting pretty full – and once again I informed her that we had a minimum of two courses…and likely more to come. Sure enough, shortly after collecting our Hiramasa plates a young lady emerged from the kitchen with our first “pre-dessert “ a 1 inch cylinder of Chocolate Ganache with Olive Oil and Soy sauce. Sweet, savory, smooth – wonderful. I can honestly say I consume more soy sauce than the average person and I’d never thought before to pair it with chocolate – in the future I will most certainly do so.

Pre-dessert number two was substantially larger than the first and easily could’ve served as a dessert itself – described as a Floating Island, with Honey, Pollen Crisp, and Limoncello the dish featured a crisp and tangy meringue with subtle floral notes floating in a pool of light honey and creamy limoncello. Adding further texture and flavor was a crispy chip that tasted like a bee pollen peanut brittle. Personally, I’d not have minded at all of this masterpiece was served as a dessert itself – it was possibly the best floating island I’ve ever tasted.

The first proper dessert, “Raspberry,” was visually stunning – I’m still not sure whether it was the lighting, the accoutrements, or the combination of the two but the dish glinted and glowed like nothing I’ve ever eaten. Featuring fresh raspberries, raspberry pearls, Mascarpone Ice cream, White Chocolate, flaked gold, and Yuzu consome the dessert married the fructose sweetness of the fruit with the smoothness of the mascarpone while finding a balance with the creamy crisp of chocolate and the acidic bite of the yuzu. With each bite offering a somewhat different experience I quite liked the dish, though not quite as much as the item that preceded it.

The final dish, a soufflé simply entitled “Praline-praline” was flawless – the best soufflé I’ve ever tasted, topping the more “famous” versions at Gary Danko and Le Cirque as well as my previous favorite at Wolfgang Puck’s CUT. Standing tall the fluffy cloud of sugar and egg was opened tableside and filled with rich praline and dark rum cream. Showing great technical skill this dish admittedly felt a tad out of place given the progressive style of Gras menu, but given his range – from “mg” technique to traditional Shabu-Shabu I thought the dish was a fitting close – and I thought it a second time as I finished my sister’s portion because she was nearing a food-coma.

Collecting our dishes our server was all smiles at our very satisfied looks and she stated we were “not quite finished.” Approximately 5 minutes passed and she once again emerged from the kitchen with our mignardises – a traditional French Canele prepared in beeswax, a Brown Butter and Caramel Macaron, and for my sister a small piece of Chocolate ganache with a candle. With a glazed over smile my sister blew out her candle and the server stated she’d take our menus to the chef for a signature and bring the bill whenever we were ready. Starting with the ganache we were both struck by how savory the chocolate was – that is until later when we were informed that It was Amadei 75% cocoa. Second, the macaron was perfect with its crisp and buttery shell giving way to a creamy interior – every bit as good as those at La Maison du Chocolat in NYC. Finally, the canele – sublime. Without a doubt the best I’ve ever experienced, topping another Chicago landmark (TRU) with its crunchy caramelized sugar exterior giving way to a yolky cream interior that seemed just barely cooked.

Paying our bill we each made a stop in the restroom to check out the fish tanks and then made our way to the door accompanied by our server who offered to take pictures. Chatting with her on the way out I was quite impressed by her descriptions of Chef Gras’ attention to detail – literally everything from the amuses to the mignardises, the music to the tables and chairs, even the cleaning schedule. Continuing with us all the way to the front of the hotel we found our car waiting and Kara wished us a good evening and presented us with our signed menus. A wonderful experience from start to finish and amongst my top 5 meals all time – all the better to have shared it with my sister on a weekend dedicated to her birthday.

[CJT]

Best post on a series of meals I have ever read on this board!!!!! thank you for the incredible attention to detail and your comments on each dish. Out of curiosity, can you say how much the bill was at both Blackbird and L2O? We read about Alinea and its extraordinary prices, but nothing I've read about what Alinea serves matches the incredible meals you describe here. Thank you!

[uhockey]

I'd say my review of Alinea posted on this very board (search button!) as well as Kevin's match the incredible experience at L2O.

http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/642724

[ChemWork]

Uhockey:

Another excellent review. How difficult was it to get reservations to L2O? Thanks

[uhockey]

Used open table about 4 weeks in advance w/o difficulty.

[uhockey]

Lula Cafe -

Bongo room, M. Henry, Over Easy, Orange, Yolk...and then? Lula of course. Perhaps the most highly praised of the Chicago Breakfast/Brunch scene, but also the location with the most variable menu and obscure location, I will admit the small organic sidewalk café had escaped my attention on both previous visits to Chicago. Turned onto the location by a fellow epicure and hungry after a long morning run following a great night of sleep without plans until late afternoon I figured we should see what they hype was all about.

Driving up to the small (dare I call it dingy?) location and browsing shortly for a parking spot a meter opened up and we made our way up to the restaurant by 9:30 – well before it filled up. Seated immediately outside at a rickety 2-top (thank goodness, I preferred the unstable table and steel chairs to the ‘noise’ they called music inside…it was worse than that at Orange and even less necessary) we were handed the day’s menu and offered coffee or cocktails. Opting for a coffee myself (no sweet n’ low at Lula) while my sister selected a Chai (frothy and decent) we waited only moments until our drinks arrived and we placed our orders. With things going well so far we watched myriad morning walkers with any number of unique dogs pass by and commented on how nice the location actually was dining al fresca.

Having finished my first cup of coffee quite quickly I asked a young man for a refill and was told he’d be right back. Some time passed and no one returned, but after walk to the restroom inside I returned to find our appetizer pastry had been delivered – a buttermilk pecan coffee cake with brown sugar icing and toasted Pecan butter. Having previously had the best coffee cake ever at Dottie’s True Blue back in May my expectations were high and they were met with ease. Creamy and dense the cake itself was only mildly sweet and tasted “biscuit-like” with hints of cinnamon and candied pecans. The topping, multiple “lumps” of buttery brown sugar was absolutely astounding and the addition of the pecan butter only added additional nuance with its smoky yet mild undertones bringing forth the cinnamon notes. Liking the dish as much as I, my sister thieved most of the dish – though I’m sure she’ll deny this.

Still awaiting my coffee refill (as two servers stood around chatting across the way) another young lady who I’m almost positive was hung over or stoned walked up to collect the plate – I asked her for a coffee refill and was told “I’ll tell your server.” Time passed…and passed…and passed…finally the young man from previous arrived and I asked him again about the coffee – he finally flagged down our server who’d not visited us since taking orders and I got another cup. Without belaboring the issue this theme recurred through the main courses and I only got a third cup poured when I essentially stood up and waved to the young man again and he personally came and filled our cup…lets just say I hope our server didn’t get any of my minimal tip.

When mains did arrive they were absolutely worth the trip, the price, and even the sub-sub-par service. For my sister, Gingersnap Pancakes with Poached Pears, Caramel, and Spiced Anglaise was absolutely divine with five thin flapjacks panfried to a perfect golden and topped with wine-poached pears, caramel crumbles, and a spicy sauce featuring high notes of cinnamon and nutmeg over a spicy clove base – a very impressive dish.

My selection, the other sweet of the menu, was White Chocolate Custard Stuffed Brioche French Toast with Klug Farm Raspberries and Sugar Cooke Crumbles…it was every bit as good as it sounds. Thick cut and buttery the brioche could have easily held up toasted on its own. Instead of doing this, however, the slices of bread were sandwiched artistically around a creamy custard with soft chocolate tones and topped with perfect late-summer raspberries and a raspberry compote. Adding just a mild bit of contrast, like the crumbles on the pancakes, were truly small chunks of a buttery and sugary cookie. On par with the French Toast at m.Henry or the Griddle Café in Los Angeles and as such in my top three all time.

Receiving our modest bill I must say that all the rumors of the great food at Lula Café are true – it was amongst my top breakfasts of all time and reminded me very much in terms of quality to Canteen in San Francisco – no slight praise. Given the light customer load throughout the meal, however, I have to note that the service was aloof to the point of not being “hipster cool” as the restaurant seems to aspire to be, but rather just cold and inattentive. While I certainly don’t expect 3-Starred Michelin service at a breakfast joint, a smile, a refill, and a “how ya doin?” is even par for the course at Denny’s.

[ms. chow]

It's unfortunate that you had such bad service. Rest assured that it is a fluke. Also, Lula is not just a breakfast joint. Come for dinner next time.

[uhockey]

Frontera Grill -

"Food and Wine loves him. The Beard Awards love him. Chicago seems infatuated with each restaurant he and his partners open. The preceding refer to two persons in the Chicago culinary landscape and it was with those thoughts in mind that I decided to make my lunch reservations for my two days in Chicago - Blackbird and Frontera Grill." - copied from my Blackbird review and reused here because it has been true of Rick Bayless for even longer than its been true of Chef Kahan (who once worked for him.) While I will fully admit that I generally do not fancy Mexican food, I have had some good options in the past - most recently the "fusion" French-Mex at Cabrabella's in San Diego - but also in Detroit's Mexican town and LA's Border Grill - and with Chef Bayless' recent win on Top Chef masters I have to admit I was intrigued - just how good can it be?

Intelligently making reservations for two during the brunch service at Frontera my sister and I arrived at the bustling restaurant at 12:10 - five minutes prior to our reservation. After chuckling at the 50+ person-long line at the newly opened Xoco next door we made our way through a sea of persons to the hostess stand at Frontera where we heard the lady in front of us informed that it would be a 2 1/2 to 3 hour wait for a party of four. Checking in our hostess stated "Yes, we've been expecting you - and thank goodness you have reservations!" Led quickly to our seats in the main dining room overlooking the open kitchen we were quickly seated, water was poured, and menus were delivered.

After a few moments our server, an excitable young man appeared and announced that he'd be serving us. With a warm welcome and a couple of recommendations with regard to drinks and appitizers we were left to decide and both my sister and I couldn't help but chuckle - knowledgable, "loud," personable, and all smiles - exactly the sort of server one would expect from a place owned by Chef Bayless. Browsing around the room we were greeted with much more whimsy - from obscure pinata and puppets to unique takes on Spanish art to the jovial latino music over the speakers, nothing remotely "serious" except the focus on food and fun.

Returning shortly our server asked if we had any menu questions and when we responded to the negative he asked if he could take our orders. Not a drinker myself my sister opted for the signature Frontera Margarita with Salt and although she is not a frequent margarita drinker her praise of the item was so headstrong that even I felt the need to taste it. While I can't say I have a ton of experience (two previous 'good' margaritas and a relatively unfortunate experience with a pitcher of frozen margarita in Vegas 2 years ago) I will say that the flavor was excellent and the potent lime mellowed the bite of the alcohol well. Served with the margarita was a bowl of mixed nuts and seeds topped with a spicy chipotle - these went quickly.

After a somewhat prolonged period our appetizer arrived - or rather "appetizers." Strongly recommended by our server as a good way to experience Frontera as a first time visitor we decided to spend the $7.50pp charge for the "Entremes Surtido" an appetizer platter featuring 5 different items. Presented attractively and emitting the most wonderful scents of lime, spice, and cilantro the dish was explained and we decided to taste things simultaneously beginning with the "Taquitos de Pollo" - crispy taquitos filled with chicken, black beans and poblanos, with homemade sour cream, salsa verde, aejo cheese. Pan fried to a crispy perfection the tortillas cracked easily to the bit giving way to a wonderfully creamy blend of moist chicken with accents of spice, sweet, sour, and smooth. Like much latin food I have to say I couldn't separate individual tastes of the amalgam but the overall effect was great.

Our second and third tastes from the platter were "Jicama Callejera," a salad of crunchy jicama, cucumber and pineapple with fresh lime and crushed guajillo chile and "Tostaditas de Ceviche," crisp little tortillas piled with lime-marinated Hawaiian blue marlin, manzanilla olives, tomato, serrano, jicama and cilantro. While my sister didn't really appreciate the pineapple (simply not a fan) I personally thought the salad was excellent in flavor but could've used more textural variation. The ceviche, on the other hand, was a winner in the opinions of us both with the heavily acidic flavor of the meaty marlin smoothed out by the bitter olives while the combination of chopped tomato, ham, jicama, and cilantro added a salsa-esque texture to the well done fish.

The final two components of the platter were a relatively boring (albeit tasty) guacamole with perfectly prepared tortilla chips and "Quesadillas Capitalinas" - Mexico City-style corn masa turnovers stuffed with Samuels locally handcrafted Jack cheese and fresh epazote. Unfamiliar with epazote I honestly didn't know what to expect from this dish and when the folded and fried puffs arrived I certainly was surprised as my only previous experience with quesadillas were the flat versions served at typical Mexican restaurants. Biting into the puffs and met by a rush of gooey, smoky, and pungent cheese I was quite pleased and believe this was my favorite item on the platter.

With plates collected we began the 45 minute wait that would seperate us from our main courses - while I originally hoped we'd not be rushed given the long list of waiting names I have to admit that by 30 minutes I found myself getting a little impatient. While my sister is never bad company we had hoped to get to the smART show and Renegade Art Fair in Whicker Park. Taking a walk to the restrooms while we waited I snapped some pictures of the jam-packed bar and the myriad awards won by Bayless and his restaurants - I was and still am duly impressed. Returning to the table and not yet visited by our server in the last half hour we chatted some more and waited while watching the open kitchen - I only mention this because during at least 2 occasions I watched finished plates sit waiting for delivery for greater than 5 minutes.

When our mains finally did arrive - nearly 80 minutes after being seated, they looked and smelled excellent. Having already had a sweet breakfast my sister opted for the Sapitos - a trio of Xalapa-style gorditas (corn masa cakes) in chipotle-black bean sauce each with its own topping: scrambled eggs, grilled chicken, chorizo and plantains; homemade crema and queso fresco. While certainly not as visually appealing as French cuisine, the myriad colors were definitely noteworthy with eye catching yellows contrasting with blacks, whites, and orange. Tasting each of her gorditas, however, was somewhat disappointing with only the chorizo and plantains standing out and all three being luke-warm at best...as a matter of fact, the eggs were downright cold. While I realize the place was busy, from a place receiving such acclaim this isn't really acceptable.

Accompanying my sister's Sapitos was a side order of "arroz a la Mexicana" - a $3.50 pyramid of mildly spicy saffron accented rice. Something I'd certainly not have ordered myself, my sister loves Mexican rice and was happy with this dish - it was warm.

Never one to get "too much" sweet stuff on vacation I personally debated an egg dish but instead went with the Hot Cakes Indgenas featuring two Iroquois white corn pancakes with whipped goat cheese, piloncillo-agave syrup, grilled bacon and two eggs sunny-side up. Arriving with hot eggs, cool bacon, and luke-warm pancakes this dish once again showed a step of mistiming from the kitchen but thankfully didn't suffer as much as my sister's dish. Tasting like thin and 'almost' crispy cornbread I loved the taste and texture of the pancakes and found them further complimented by the complex and airy whipped goat cheese that tasted like a creamy sweet butter with almond tones. Topping the pancakes with an ample helping of the minimally bitter yet entirely smooth agave syrup was another bonus. As the eggs were organic farm eggs and served piping hot I perforated the yolk of one and allowed it to soak into the pancake while I ate the other sans-addition. The final part of the dish, the locally sourced thick-cut hickory bacon was excellent and not at all overcooked - but as mentioned it was cold.

Furthuring the sweet component of my lunch, "Platanos con Crema" or sweet fried plantains with homemade sour cream and fresh cheese was superb - sweet yet crunchy, smooth and savory, just a touch of "sour" from the cream - a combination I'd never think to prepare but one that worked extraordinarily well with a variety of contrasting tastes, textures, "mouth-feels" that melded well.

Realizing it would likely take a little bit of time but still sipping on my house-blend Intelligentsia (small cups = copious refills, a deal at only $2.50) we decided to split a dessert - a dish that I'd read about in the past and heard was not to be missed. Served after a mere 15 minutes of waiting Frontera's Chocolate Pecan Pie with Kahlua Whipped Cream arrived and was every bit as good as billed. At $8.25 the pie stood more than three inches high and the flawlessly buttery crust held up nicely against the semi-sweet organic chocolate, agave, and pecan filling. Almost maple-y like a true pecan pie yet intensely chocolate the dish was only enhanced in both taste and aroma but the airy cream with high-notes of coffe and spice and a base-note of alcohol. I'd place the pie on the "must try" list of affordable Chicago desserts along with the Elvis at Primehouse.

Completing the meal and feeling quite full we paid our notably modest bill and made our way to the door through the crowd of people now being told there were no more seatings available for the brunch or early dinner. While I realize Frontera has been a big deal for years there is no doubt they've benefited recently from Chef Bayless' win on TCM - or perhaps they've become a little overwhelmed and this may explain the inconsistency from the kitchen in terms of temperature and timing? While I cannot be sure, I've no doubt the restaurant will continue to do well and I have much respect for the Chef's attention to organics and the slowfood movement. In the end some dishes were excellent while others were somewhat average - in general I guess I'm just not a fan of Mexican or Latin cuisine. All told I enjoyed Frontera but do not think I'd rush back - and I certainly wouldn't wait more than thirty minutes for a table.

[uhockey]

The Gage -

Despite all the food-ventures of our visit, the main reason for visiting Chicago this time around was to see the opening date of U2's American leg of the 360-tour. Wanting a high quality but somewhat early and quick dinner before the show and focusing on something within walking distance of Soldier Field I was particularly excited when a fellow foodie recommended an Irish white tablecloth gastro-pub near Millennium Park - how perfect! Owned by Billy Lawless and managed by a father/son combo familiar to the area (owners of Irish pubs near Wrigley Field) the creative yet hearty menu was especially intriguing - featuring "Irish favorites" all dressed up. As an additional bonus a friend from Detroit happened to be in town on business and met us at the restaurant for dinner.

Arriving approximately 15 minutes late for our 5:00pm reservation due to traffic and spending too much time at the Renegade Art Fair we found my buddy drinking Scotch at the bar and were led swiftly to a table all the way in the back - far from the incredible degree of noise in the bar and with a full view of the rapid-fire yet impressively quiet and refined kitchen. Taking out seats we were offered menus (a new menu featuring dishes just introduced the previous week due to the change in season) and drinks - my buddy opting for a second Scotch on the rocks and my sister choosing a pale ale from Goose Island that she reported was very good. Explaining to our waiter that we'd be attending the conference and made a note telling us "no problem."

Browsing the new menu (I have to admit I was sad to see the duck/foie gras rillette removed) I saw a number of items I wanted to check out and decided to go with the multiple-small-plates approach while my dining companions opted for entree's, sides, and salads only. Browsing the room I have to say I quite liked the dark woods and heavy feel of the room - the back of the restaurant actually quite attractive and mostly well isolated from the deafening noise of the bar area. Service was friendly, hip, pleasant, and vastly better than any "bar" I've ever been to.

Shortly after placing our orders the server returned with a warm loaf of "Soda Bread" with salted butter on a wooden serving board - having never tasted soda bread in the past I was somewhat excited. Tearing off an end piece and topping it with butter I took a bite and was instantly impressed by the crispy crust and soft/airy insides with obvious notes of buttermilk. Not unlike the famous sourdoughs served in San Francisco in texture I actually liked this bread more than any sourdough in flavor and the butter was excellent.

Arriving first, having asked our server to split up my choices into two courses, were two of my "firsts" and a salad for my sister. Entitled Braised Rabbit Salad with Crisp Rice, Langhe Robiola and Horseradish Vinaigrette the salad arrived appearing to be a big pile of Robiola with some sesame seeds and light dressing. What the dish lacked in presentation, however, it more than recovered for in terms of taste, contrast, and variety of flavors. Large in portion the savory rabbit meat was very well prepared and not one bit gamey while the crispy rice lent a nice contrast to the soft flesh. Crispy, fresh, and only slightly bitter the Robiola was well tempered by the sweetness of the dressing while the horseradish came through not as "hot" but rather as a warm sensation on the palate and nostrils.

For myself, the first taste of the menu at The Gage was an appropriate one - The Scotch Egg with spicy mustard - "bar food" at its best. Featuring a jumbo hen egg that was hardboiled and wrapped in spicy pork sausage then deep fried the egg was served with a dollop of yellow mustard on top and a ceramic cup of spicy brown I personally opted to remove the mustard as I do not fancy the taste. Biting into the egg carefully in order to avoid any mishaps with the yolk I found the inside well cooked but not overly done - quite perfect, actually. Tasting the mix of crispy (not oily) breading, smooth and mild egg, and spicy savory sausage together was like the best sausage and egg biscuit you can imagine - sure it isn't healthy, but damn is it good.

The second dish of my first course, another egg, was titled Poached Swan Creek Duck Egg on Mushroom Toast with Shaved Grana Padano and it was actually better than the first egg. First of all, if you've never had a duck egg you owe it to yourself to do-so (assuming you like eggs.) Richer, creamier, and smoother than a hen egg this average sized specimen was perfectly poached with a creamy and rich yolk pouring forth when poked and lathering the combination of smooth shaved cheese and mélange of woodsy mushrooms with an intense flavor. Beneath the cleanly flavored fungus was a buttery slice of toasted and buttery brioche. While the first dish was bar food, this dish would not have been out of place at Blackbird, North Pond, or even Charlie Trotter's (I actually had a similar textured egg - albeit covered with black truffles at Trotter's in December.)

Clearing out plates the server inquired as to whether we were ready for round two and as the first course had come so quickly and been so well prepared we told him it was no rush. Chatting amongst ourselves we could hear some loud cheering coming from the bar (a college football Saturday, UofM playing ND) but had no issues with the "noise" interrupting us. After a short while the second courses did arrive - for my buddy a medium rare 16oz. Natural Aged American Rib-eye with Les Frères Cow Milk Cheese, Roasted Organic Potatoes that he stated was "awesome." Alongside the beef was a pot of Roasted Woodland Mushrooms very much akin in flavor to those accompanying my duck egg - not over seasoned in the least and allowing the beauty of the fungus to shine I quite liked these.

For my sister the selection of the night was Potato and Semolina Dumplings with Woodland Mushrooms, Tomato, Fennel, Parmesan. Gnocchi-esque in preparation but somewhat more dry - almost an orecchiette, the noodles were quite well prepared and only slightly past al dente. The additions, specifically the parmesan and fennel were very well thought out and their savory smoothness balanced well with the woodsy mushrooms and acidic yet mild tomato sauce.

For myself, continuing the eclectic takes on "bar food" concept I went with a dish I'd heard much about but never had the opportunity to experience - Poutine. Not really Irish but rather French Canadien this dressed up version of cheesy fries was titled House Poutine with Elk Ragout, Curd Cheese, Chips. First of all, the parts I was familiar with - the fries were great - large and cooked through with a good ratio of crunchy outside to smooth potato interior while the cheddar cheese curd was obviously quite fresh with a lot of squeak and only a mild bit of brine. Anchoring the creamy cheese and crispy potatoes was a delectably rich and savory gravy of elk - a beast I'd never tasted - and hints of carrots, celery, and smoke. Salty and delicious, no doubt.....though the combination of this and my previous two dishes plus what followed must've had my arteries pleading for mercy.

Before getting into the final item, I'll also note I purchased a small side dish of Brussels Sprouts with Brie and Applewood Bacon to share with the others - unfortunately my buddy wasn't biting on sprouts and my sister was getting full. Consuming approximately 3/4 of the crock I have to say these were the second best Sprouts I've ever tasted and the combination of mild creamy cheese and spicy sweet pork was a perfect foil for the well prepared and pungent sprouts. I've thoughts for a haute-stuffed-cabbage based on this blend.

My final dish was potentially the only misstep of the meal. Not because they weren't amazing, but because of the amount of rich food I'd already eaten - I was getting full. I've had chicken nuggets. I've had popcorn shrimp. I've had deep fried sweetbreads. I'd never had deepfried chicken livers. Creamy, smooth, flavorful, perfectly coated and well done - but a belly bomb to say the least. Offering one to my buddy without him knowing what it was his response was "wow, these are amazing, is it dark meat?" When told, surprisingly, he shrugged and kept on eating. Liking my nuggets with ketchup as opposed to mustard I asked for some and was given a ceramic bowl filled with Heinz organic (I watched the server fill the cup) - a nice touch.

As it was getting to be around 7:00pm and we were all stuffed we opted against dessert but did take a look at the menu. With many interesting options I found the chocolate chip banana soufflé most appealing and would've stopped by after the concert for dessert had the fools of the Chicago Museum Campus not locked myself and 70,000 other fans in the stadium after the show for an hour. When it was all said and done our bill at The Gage was less per person than that at Blackbird and I enjoyed it nearly as much - a great surprise as I went in with skeptical expectations at best. As I've said before, I'm not a bar guy - but if bar food at home were half this good I could become one.

[ms. chow]

Another great writeup, uhockey. Great to hear that you had such a good time at Gage. I've been meaning to update my profile and add The Gage to my list of favorites. Will do that now. It just works on so many levels. I've been a fan of Chef Flannigan since Meritage. Sadly there was a detour to Blue Water Grill. But i'm glad that he is now doing wonderful things at The Gage. My foodie friends are all amazed at how excellent a gastropub can be. Non-foodie friends do not feel threaten when you say you're taking them to an Irish bar. It works for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. I've taken my whole department at work (both local and out of town) and there is always something for everyone.

Uhockey, from your posts on this trip, seems you have an aversion to noise level. Don't know what is on your future list, but just a word of caution. Pretty much all of the Kahan/Madia enterprise are all noisy. Blackbird is buzzing and loud at dinner time. Avec is worst than Blackbird, and they blare rock/metal music at midnight. Publican is no better. Violet Hour, ironically, being the only bar in the empire, is the quietest. Mado with all the exposed brick is loud. The Bristol in my mind is worst than a club. None of which deters me from going. But earplugs might be a good idea lol.

[chicgail]

Blackbird, Avec, Publican, Mado and The Bristol may be noisy, but they're right at the top of my faves here in town at the moment. In fact we just came back from a simple, but awesome brunch at The Bristol.

I was at the Gage the same night as unhockey -- after the Regina Spector concert instead of before the U2. It was walking distance from the Chicago Theatre and our virgin visit.

We had the rillettes, which were tasty, but heavy. That was followed by the Scotch egg -- a very tempting heart attack on a plate. While it was good (well, it's an egg covered with sausage and then deep-fried after all!) I just don't see a repeat of it. We also had the Heirloom tomato tart -- it was probably my favorite. The tomatoes were perfectly ripe and sweet and juicy and the crust nicely flakey.

I must confess it was on the late side and Mr. CG and I were both a little cranky so we didn't try as much as I would have liked.

Uhockey, thanks for another awesome report. We'll be back to The Gage before long.

[uhockey]

Had Regina announced her show earlier I'd have been at that show and seen U2 the following night.

I considered the tomato tart, as well, it looked awesome at the table next to us.

As to the comment about noise - I don't mind a lively spot....but earsplitting is not ideal for a meal.