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Sep 8, 2009 03:19 PM

[Rio de Janeiro] Anything new, or what's outstanding in butecos and traditional places

Will be in Rio 18-29 Sept and am already salivating about meals at Cafe Lamas, Bar Brasil, Nova Capela, Cosmopolitã, and other old-style butecos and restaurants. That should give you an idea of what I'm looking for, the older, neighborhood places with honest, simple food, chopp "estupidamente gelado", and maybe some atmosphere. Are there any places that have risen to the top in this style of place, or new places that at least emulate the paradigm? I heard Bar Luis has stopped selling Brahma chopp which is insane!!!! Another place that I used to like was Botequim in it still there, still good?

Also would like recommendations for good Bahian and Mineira chow...Is Yoruba in Botafogo still decent? I think I was there 30 years ago??? Any others?

Pizza??? What are the two or three solid pizza places these days...with forno a lenha, of course. As far as churrasco, I'm not a rodizio fan and have liked Majorica near Largo do Machado and 3 decades ago, and a place in Leblon (maybe Plataforma, but I thought it was called Churrascaria Leblon), both places had great picanha and great service. Any other ideas for really good meat, well cooked, but NOT rodizio?

Any other ideas that reflect Brazilian regional cuisine are welcome...maybe something from Amazonas or the Nordeste???

'brigado in advance...

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  1. Sambamaster - I recently made a post here with the Luso-Carioca establishments that I favor; particularly those in the centro and zona norte.

    Here is a list of some places that I frequent when I'm in RJ (where I used to live - but still get back often and have an apt)

    Boteco Casual (Centro)
    Casual Retrô (Centro)
    Penafiel (Centro) - one of my favorites in the WORLD with fantastic batata frita e peixe
    Bar Luiz (Centro)
    Adega Flor de Coimba (Lapa)
    Da Silva (Ipanema and Centro)
    Cosmopolitan (Lapa)
    Nova Capela (Lapa)
    Lamas (Flamengo/Largo do Machado)
    Adônis (Benfica) - really worth a visit for excellent bolinho de bacalhau
    Siri (Vila Isbael)
    Marisqueira (Copacabana)
    Alfaia (Copacabana) - fantastic seafood
    Guimas (Gávea) - more upscale but good food
    Bistrô Senac (Flamengo)
    Majorica (Flamengo) - Pricey - but great meat à la carte
    Timpanas (Centro) - used to be called O Alentejano
    Lisboeta (Centro/Lapa)
    Casa do Minho (Cosme Velho)
    Rei do Bacalhau (Encantado)
    À Mineira (Humaitá) - buffet-style food from Minas - usually quite good!

    I haven't been to Yoruba in a while either, though it was good the time I ate there. One of the more upscale places for great pizza is Capricciosa in Ipanema. I also like Restaurante Turino in Tijuca for Pizza and Pasta.

    Boa Sorte!

    2 Replies
    1. re: vinhotinto75

      'brigadao, have some of my faves on the list, and others that look promising. Is the Senac what I think it is, like the place in Salvador where student chefs and student waitstaff serve up great local food a very reasonable prices??? And what is their focus, comida-wise? In Pelourinho, obviously it is comida Flamengo???

      Thanks for your list....I'll surely hit some of those places....and will post some sort of report when I get back...

      1. re: sambamaster

        The Senac Bisrô in Rio (near the Metrô stop Flamengo on Marqûes de Abrantes) serves Franco-Brazilian food and also is a training site for students/chefs. It is in a great building which used to be the Figner residence (A Czech immigrant who was in the music business).

        It is a nice change of pace and nicely located.


    2. Centro is the place for the best botecos, for sure.

      Bar do Mineiro and Bar do Arnaurdo in Sta Teresa are awesome.

      Bracarense in Leblon.
      O Carangueijo in Copacabana for empadas de camarao and sopa leal veloso.

      Esplanada Grill or

      Siri Mole for comida baiana, beautiful bobo de camarao, in Arpoador.They also have a quiosco on Copa.
      Azul Marinho for Bahia and Espiritu Santo seafood.

      Adega Carne-de-sol do Peixoto for comida nordestina representing Ceara and Pernambuco.Also, restaurant Kacua.

      Aprazivel is such a beautiful setting with excellent food.

      A Mineira is fantastic Mineiro cuisine, served buffet style, I 2nd this rec.

      Confeiteria Colombo for salgadinhos, cafe, and doces.

      Capricciosa and Braz for pizza.

      Ellas lonchonete in Copa for a great selection of cachacas in a dive.They've got all kinds of good stuff from Minas.

      1. just back from rio 2 days ago. first time there and i used this board for many restaurants. did not have a bad meal there but also did not have anything outstanding. i stayed at an apartment up the street from capricciosa but ate pizza at stravaganza instead. lovely looking place and the pizza was very tasty. a little pricey for what it is but recommended. for our splurge we went to aprazivel in santa teresa. beautiful place with terrific views and very good food. recommended. our 2 favorite botecos were botequim informal and devassa. i watched the brazil-chile match last thursday at botequim informal, pretty cool to watch a world cup qualifier with the locals, and they definitely have chopp of bramha. excellent bacalao and the ribs were tasty. devassa has good food also and its a little more crowded. i enjoyed the "meaty" and the fried chicken with garlic. the portions were much bigger than i expected and we over ordered. the beer is excellent, i loved the negro especially. and the academia do cachaca in leblon was a fun night. on a busy corner, a little loud, but a wild night. good luck!

        1. Just came across this thread and am really glad I did. We leave Monday night for three weeks in Rio and this are some great recs. Thanks again to everyone.

          2 Replies
          1. re: c oliver

            Don't miss Cafe Lamas for an amazing trip back in time. But also, Bar Brasil and Nova Capela (where the cabrito is yummy) offer a similar experience....after dinner you can hop across the street (more or less) and end up in Lapa, where great samba rolls on till the wee wee hours...and it's the real deal, not designed for tourists. But it can be a bit overwhelming...use taxis. One more old place I've always like on Mem de Sa, right down the street, is Cosmopolita, great food, friendly staff. Supposedly it's where the famous "file a Oswaldo Aranha" was born....steak covered in fried garlic, fries, with a side of manioc...really great. As it turns out, I'm only leaving on the 30th, so save some for me!

            1. re: sambamaster

              Sounds great - all of it. Somewhere in my pix, I have one of the butcher holding up the whole goat leg before sawing it into pieces for me. Mmmmm. Our apt's at the very southern end of Copacabana. My email's in my profile in case you want to get together.