2 days in barcelona, looking for feedback
Here's what I've come up with for a 2 day itinerary. Any feedback appreciated
2 tapas, 2 catalan meals
Paco Meralgo - looking for something near passeig de gracia
Agut - looking for something near barri gothic
Ca L'Isidre - Near our hotel and supposed to be one of the best Catalan restaurants.
Cal Pep - I've read too many glowing review to ignore it.
We're not interested in any tasting menus because we've had too many recently. We're looking for good, traditional food.
Pacomeralgo: have eaten there more than half dozen times, always good
Agut: ok but i've only eaten there once about three years ago; simple and traditional; nice old atmosphere.
Ca L'Isidre: had dinner there years ago; it was decent but very expensive; I think it is living on it's reputation. None of my friends in Barcelona would recommend it but it does fit your very 'traditional' criteria. I would go to Fonda Gaig or Dama but their cooking is a little more updated (not at all modern or molecular).
Cal Pep: I understand why visitors love it but I am one of the few detractors. If you like counter seating and want to observe a 'show', Pep is always there to orchestrate. The food is good, straight forward and somewhat overpriced. I don't like peering over diner's shoulder waiting for their seat. I rather go to Pacomeralgo if I am in the mood for counter seating (also has tables). Cal Pep does have large plates of food that Pacomeralgo does not. A plus is it is located in El Born, the most lively and fun part of Barcelona.
As for Cal Pep, if you like what you've read and know what the restaurant is about, I don't see a reason to change. Own by the same people and nearby is Passadis del Pep: table service, no menu, all seafood, and the same style of cooking. The cost includes cava and depends on how many courses one eat; plan on at least 60E per person. El Born is more for informal eclectic eating places rather traditional restaurants. Most tapas/pintxo places are standup and crowded: Euskal Etxea, Sagrada, El Xampanyet are just a few. I don’t know what you mean by ‘modern Spanish restaurant’. If you are referring to molecular Spanish cooking, Comerc24 has very good tapas in that style. Senyor Parallada is a very popular traditional Catalan restaurant. The main floor room (avoid the upstair) is large and extremely pleasant, extensive menu of traditional food a very moderate price (every plate, including main courses when I was there last year, are 12E or less. If one order correctly, the food is good: anything a la plancha, squid, escalavida, sardine, the duck with pears or figs. Nothing exceptional but a fun place. Reserve after 10pm if one wants to eat among the locals. A good moderate Galacian seafood place near the Santa Maria del Mar is Mar de la Ribera.
If you are interest in molecular Spanish cooking, Barcelona is the place to try it but most are in the Eixample. Below is a link to an earlier post that listed some of my favorites.