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Sep 3, 2009 01:53 PM

Hong Kong's best roast goose (cantonese)?

I think the last thread on this topic was back on 2007. Was wondering what the current opinions are as to the best cantonese style roast goose places? Yung Kee or other in HK, Kowloon, or out in Sham Tseng, or some other place? Last time I was in HK was about 2000-2001. Went to both Yung Kee and Sham Tseng. Yung Kee felt too touristy. Sham Tseng felt more authentic. But, frankly, the goose tasted about the same. Perhaps my taste buds are dull. What are your more enlightened opinions? And what is the criteria you use to rate the quality of the roast goose? What do you think is the best pairing with goose: lai fun, mai fun, or rice? I personally prefer soup lai fun.

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  1. There are quite a few roast goose restaurants in Sham Tseng - which one did you go to? Chan Kee is arguably the most famous, there are 2 Chan Kee's - one in a newer building (where Wellcome is) and another at the 'old' village where you sit under a tent/marquee with no aircon. I prefer the latter, as it's ok to walk in and just have half a goose and rice and nothing else.

    The other oldie in Sham Tseng is Yue Kee, but I find the goose there a bit hit n' miss. The skin is crisp sometimes and simply limp others.

    Another place in Sham Tseng is the Rhine Garden Restaurant which looks like an inconspicuous neighbourhood dim sum place, but they do a mean roast goose - their variety is closer to Peking Duck - a plump goose with skin pulled taught which yields a dry, crisp skin. Chan Kee, Yue Kee and Yung Kee (central) tend to do the slightly wrinkled, 'wilted' variety that doesn't seem so concerned with crispness, which in my personal humble opinion, defeats the purpose of roasting.

    Anyway, my pick is the Chan Kee that's under the tent.

    As for what to eat it with, I'd go for rice, to soak up the juices, but lai fun is definitely the traditional lunchtime/snack choice. I remember my dad telling me what an incredible treat it was to be able to have "siu ngor lai" (roast goose + soup lai fun) after school.

    4 Replies
    1. re: e_ting

      Unfortunately, I don't remember the name of the place where I ate in Sham Tseng. I think the buildings were pretty old. Since I'm traditional, I would have gone to the oldest looking place. Or maybe I just asked someone, and they pointed and said "Go there"! :) I think it was on the opposite side of the street from the water/sea, and also on the opposite side of the street where you get off the siu ba, if you are coming from Kowloon.

      Thank you for the recommendations. I really have to try them the next time I'm in HK. You make a good point. One could argue that wrinkled/wilted skin defeats the purpose of roasting. Nevertheless, I have to try to compare the 'taut' skin versus the 'wilted' skin next time, both over rice and in soup. A friend of mine whom I consider a roast goose expert was so fanatical about it that when he stayed in HK, he ate so much that he got poisoned and had to go to the hospital! He still loves it though. To him, roast goose meat is a lot sweeter than a roast duck's.

      Can you please give me the Cantonese pronunciation/characters of Rhine Garden Restaurant so I can find it? Thank you. (My after school treat with my dad used to be buttered toast and milk tea (with cube sugar, which they don't use in the U.S.) at a chaa chaan teng :) Oh, brings back memories...

      1. re: nooyawka

        Sounds like you probably already went to the old Chan Kee then :)

        Here's the name & address for Rhine Garden:
        嘉韻酒樓 (pron: Gaa Won Tsau Lau)
        38 Castle Peak Rd
        (next to Park n' Shop International)
        tel: 2496 2233

      2. re: e_ting

        @ e_ting: I totally agree with you regarding the importance of crisp skin on any roast fowl, be it chicken, duck, or goose.

      3. I had a pretty dismal experience a couple of weeks ago at Yung Kee (4F). The goose was really just not up to par.