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Sep 2, 2009 10:56 AM

ISO of LOTS of lunches in Rio - mostly not expensive

We have an apartment in Rio (southern end of Copacabana) which we'll soon be visiting for three weeks. We haven't been in almost two years (the economy) so are really looking forward to this. Especially because we will truly be on holiday. The last two trips (total of four months) were spent overseeing the complete upgrading of the place and then furnishing it. We had also taken our dog with us for the really long trip. This trip we'll have no dog, which gives us freedom to even overnight other places (am considering Petropolis). We generally eat lunch out most days and cook or have leftovers for dinner. We usually go to the "joints," the cafes/bars that have 6-12 specials every day, accompanied with the ubiquitous rice, beans and French fries. Since we'll be people of leisure we want to go near and far doing museums (Niteroi is high on our list), chuches, etc. There's no neighborhood that's off-limits, i.e., Urca, Botafogo, Santa Teresa, etc. We almost NEVER eat where tourists eat although we did have feijoada at the Patio on Av. Atlantica. Any really good feijoada recs would be great. We take public transporation all the time. (BTW, is the Metro stop at General Osorio open yet?) Any recs would be greatly appreciated. I know the Rio crowd is small but vocal :) Thanks in advance.

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  1. Here are some of my recommendations located in the zona sul, centro, and zona norte. Many of these places are Carioca institutions that serve large portions and specialize in luso-brazilian cuisine. Granted, these are not the most upscale of places, but you are bound to always get a reliable and affordable meal at these places. I tend to favor the centro and zona norte as you can tell from below, but have thrown in some zona sul places too!

    Boteco Casual (Centro)
    Casual Retrô (Centro)
    Penafiel (Centro)
    Bar Luiz (Centro)
    Adega Flor de Coimba (Lapa)
    Da Silva (Ipanema and Centro)
    Cosmopolitan (Lapa)
    Nova Capela (Lapa)
    Lamas (Flamengo/Largo do Machado)
    Adônis (Benfica)
    Siri (Vila Isbael)
    Marisqueira (Copacabana)
    Alfaia (Copacabana)
    Guimas (Gávea)
    Bistrô Senac (Flamengo)

    Boa Viagem e Boa Sorte!

    6 Replies
    1. re: vinhotinto75

      Obrigada. Muito obrigada. That's going to help a lot. Just the kinds of places we love. I assume you live in Rio. Maybe we could get together? My Portugues sucks but I never starve :)

      1. re: c oliver

        C Oliver - I lived for many years in RJ and still go back often and keep an apartment there, however I mostly divide my time these days between North America and Europe. Thus, I regret that I cannot join you for a meal while you will be in RJ. If you need more recommendations or suggestions, feel free to touch base.


        1. re: vinhotinto75

          Ah, well, we'll lift a glass of vinho tinto (or a caiparinha if you prefer) in your honor. BTW, is there any place in particular in Santa Teresa that you like? I don't remember exactly where we ate but could find it again but always like checking out other spots. Sorry our paths won't cross but you've give me lots of food ideas. Just two weeks til we leave. YAY!!!

          1. re: c oliver

            C Oliver

            As far as Santa Teresa is concerned, two places I recommend are Sobrenatural and Simplesmente - one which specializes in Northeastern food. I know some people love Aprazível because of the view and the food (which can be hit or miss from _my_ experience), yet it can be pricey. One thing I do like about Aprazível is that the wine list includes only Brazilian wines (primarily from Rio Grande do Sul).

            While not technically in Santa Teresa (yet on the "subida"), one interesting place, albeit a bit pricey, is the Casa da Suiça, in Glória which specializes in Fondue. It is a bit of a splurge, but perhaps worth investigating for a dinner.

            As always, feel free to write if you have questions!

            Boa Viagem!

            1. re: vinhotinto75

              Somehow Sobrenatural rings a bell. If you walking up the street, it was on the right, a bar or something down the left side of the room, not big, great energy and food. Thanks for the info.

              Is there anyplace around the lagoa that you like? We met some people for sushi at a place but would like another reason to go there :)

              Where's your apt? Ours is on Rua Raul Pompeia (which is the southern end of Barata Ribeira) between Souza Lima and Francisco Sa, just two blocks over from Av. Atlantica.

              Another thing we love is how 'different' the groceries are. One might have fresh sashimi, they all have bakeries, one a pizza oven, most a fish monger. All at the same chain, Zona Sul, but all different. Yikes, i can't wait to get back.

              1. re: vinhotinto75

                Aprazivel is to be experienced, beautiful setting and good food. Bar do Mineiro is also a Sta Teresa destination.

      2. I was having one of those pesky senior moments. The feijoada place is The Deck not Patioat Atlantica and Siqueiro Campos. We ate there today. The price has gone from R$20 to R$24.50 but we thought it was perhaps even better. It seemed they had some of the more *esoteric* parts of the pig :) All beautifully tender. And the qiabo (?sp) was bright green (probably got there early at 1230).

        5 Replies
        1. re: c oliver

          Cafe Lamas has a great feijoada. I'll probably be there next Saturday! But there are others of great renown. I just love the ambience of this place founded around 1880 or had okra/quiabo with feijoada!!!???

          1. re: sambamaster

            I see Cafe Lamas is in Flamingo. Maybe we should meet there. Let's discuss later. One of the ten or so "cauldrons" that The Deck has is chicken with okra. Growing up in Atlanta, I love okra. They also had bobo do camarao which wasn't bad for steam-tray kinda food. Just had a bite. We've only had feijoada there. Do they all have many pots of the various parts of the pig? (ooh, too much alliteration!) I pass on the two soups but have to have a taste of the remaining eight or ten. Probably a dozen desserts but I always limit myself to orange slices and passionfruit mousse. And, of course, two caiparinhas. My husband lobbied for sharing "just one more" but I'd had enough :)

            1. re: c oliver

              I love frango com quiabo, dream about that dish.The Deck is a por kilo?

              1. re: streetgourmetla

                The Deck is NOT a kilo place. They have a regular menu and then some "completo" meals like feijoada. For some reason they've always included frango com quiabo. I've never looked at their regular menu to see if it's on it. Although you would think it would be touristy because of the location, there seem to be plenty of locals. We actually learned of it from a carioca.

                1. re: c oliver

                  Could be the chef is mineiro. Nice to here of a decent option in the tourist zone. Having a choppe at Devassa on Atlantica isn't a bad deal either, I love that they have a Devassa choppeiria at Galeao and Santos Dumont.