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I don't know that I'd call it "precious and expensive" when entrees range from $19 to $26 and it reads to me like upscale comfort food.
I dined there a couple of weeks after it opened and our group put together a "tasting menu" by ordering a couple of almost everything to share. Pork belly, tomato soup, gnocchi, scallops and a couple of the fish dishes were great; I was less impressed with the rabbit terrine but it was still respectable. I'd certainly go back.