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Cheeses in Madrid, Santiago de Compostela, Lisbon?

Shep Huntleigh Sep 1, 2009 11:14 AM

I'm eager to try the local cheeses on an upcoming trip to Spain and Portugal. Can anyone suggest places where I can sample several kinds, perhaps at a restaurant or bar that offers plates of different types. Or even shops or markets where I can pick up a local assortment. Madrid, Santiago de Compostela and Lisbon are the places I'll be based. Thanks so much for any leads.

  1. g
    Grelos Sep 5, 2009 03:55 AM

    Queso from Arzua, a small town near Santiago de Compostela, is wonderful. Also I think they call it either queso do pais (Galician?) or queso del pais (Castellano) is similar and also good. A place I recommend in Santiago to sample cheese is Vinoteca O'beiro in the old part. Brilliant place, really casual; great wine; I love their cheese plates.

    Vinoteca O'beiro
    Calle Da Raiña 3
    Santiago de Compostela

    4 Replies
    1. re: Grelos
      MOREKASHA Sep 7, 2009 07:54 PM

      O'beiro is worth a detour. Now, where does one get a great, tasty, hefty Caldo Gallego in NYC?

      1. re: MOREKASHA
        Grelos Sep 12, 2009 06:11 AM

        Caldo is most commonly grelos (collard greens) from Galica which I think you would be hard pressed to find in New York City, but I would check at Casa Galicia in Astoria. If there is a worthy caldo to be found in New York surely they will know. Mucha suerte!

        1. re: Grelos
          butterfly Sep 12, 2009 03:36 PM

          Grelos are turnip greens... not collard greens. Nabizas are the first tender leafy growth on the turnip. I can't say why exactly, but the turnip greens in Spain aren't anything like those that you'll find in the US. The other ingredients that give it flavor could also be a problem--like "unto," lacón, and other pig parts for the caldo.

          1. re: butterfly
            MOREKASHA Sep 12, 2009 09:12 PM

            Many thanks Butterfly. I always thought theywere Kale.

    2. s
      Shep Huntleigh Sep 4, 2009 11:39 AM

      Thank you so much to everyone for these great leads. I'm getting hungry. Bread, cheese, charcuterie...I'm there! Muchas gracias. Muito obrigado.

      1. v
        vinhotinto75 Sep 2, 2009 12:00 PM

        There are tons of little mercadinhos throughout Lisbon that sell cheese, wine, olives, olive oil, bacalhau, and other delicacies so it is hard to find one that especially specializes in cheese.

        One in particular that I really like for quality, price, and service is the Charcutaria Brasil on Rua Alexandre Herculano 84/90. They have a great selection of cheeses, meats, and great frango assado for take away.

        There are also other mercados, armazens, and garrafeiras in this area that have a nice assortment of culinary delicacies.

        The name escapes me presently, however there is a store in the Princesa Real neighborhood that specializes in cheese and delicacies from the Alentejo region.

        1. t
          Tohono Rat Sep 1, 2009 06:58 PM

          I second Morekaha's recommendation of the market in Santiago. There is also a baker who sells the extremely moist and dense wheat and rye bread. Grab some fruit and you have a feast! I love spectacular Michelin-starred places..... but really, with great bread, cheese and fruit, how can you go wrong?

          If you have access to cooking facilities, grab some shellfish at the market as well. The mariscos are so fresh that they are often still wiggling and squirming in the market. Have fun!

          1 Reply
          1. re: Tohono Rat
            MOREKASHA Sep 1, 2009 07:01 PM

            Gallego corn bread is the best in all of Spain. The Portugese corn bread isn't bad either.

          2. b
            butterfly Sep 1, 2009 05:54 PM

            In Madrid--the new reconceptualized Mercado de San Miguel has a cheese counter where you can order small quantities to sample on the spot--they have an interesting selection--many raw milk cheeses. (All of the stalls there are set up to give you snacks to go that you can mix and match and eat in the market). Other markets have a variety of cheese stalls, but aren't set up for on-site snacking. If you are looking for a store http://www.poncelet.es/

            1. r
              Reignking Sep 1, 2009 01:43 PM

              I think there was something about a cheese shop in a recent Culture magazine...if I think about it at home, I'll look it up. There's a store in Madrid that focuses on artisanal Spanish cheeses.

              2 Replies
              1. re: Reignking
                MOREKASHA Sep 1, 2009 02:34 PM

                There was a store called El Palacio de Queso but it's long gone

                1. re: Reignking
                  Reignking Sep 12, 2009 09:04 PM

                  I finally remembered to look it up. It is Poncelet.

                2. MOREKASHA Sep 1, 2009 12:18 PM

                  Theres a nice cheese monger/tienda in the Santiago market. They offer different types of tetilla, included smoked & unpasteurized . There are also many ladies with homemade cheese as well. Don't forget the homemade Orujo. Also, any Asturiano bar worth it's salt will always have cabrales. Cabrales w/sausage, cabrales with fries, cabrales with cabrales and of course, cabrales with cider.

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