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Sept 2009 COTM: SOUTHERN Sauces

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September 2009 Cookbooks of the Month:

SCREEN DOORS AND SWEET TEA: Recipes and Tales from a Southern Cook, by Martha Hall Foose (SDST)
&
BON APPETIT Y'ALL: Recipes and Tales from Three Generations of Southern Cooking, by Virginia Willis (BAYA)

Please post your full-length reviews of recipes for sauces, condiments, jams, jellies, preserves, spice mixtures, etc here. Please mention the name of the recipe you are reviewing and the book or author and page number, if possible, as well as any modifications you made to the recipe. This thread includes:

BAYA
Chapter 12: Sauces, Condiments, Jams, Jellies and Preserves

SDST
scattered throughout the book

A reminder that the verbatim copying of recipes to the boards is a violation of the copyright of the original author. Posts with copied recipes will be removed.

Happy Cooking!

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  1. Pulled Pork Sandwiches with Mama's Barbecue Sauce, Pg. 81
    Mama's Barbecue Sauce, Pg. 285

    I'm reporting this sauce under this heading because it's more about the sauce than the meat. Yesterday was the 5th time I've made it. It's now the only BBQ I use, it's That good. I halve the recipe. Obviously we love this sauce and have used it on chicken and other meats as well.

    Unsalted butter, ketchup, finely chopped Vidalia, apple cider vinegar, Worcestershire, Dijon, brown sugar, Kosher salt & FGBpepper are all combined in a saucepan, brought to the boil, then simmered for about 30 minutes. Once again, taste for seasoning and add more S & P if necessary.

    For the pulled pork sandwiches I had a small (2+lb) pork shoulder I wanted to use up so I made the sauce in the morning and threw the meat drenched with the sauce in a 4 qt. slow cooker and cooked it on low for 7 hours. Ladled the sauce out of the cooker and into a small sauce pan to reduce a bit before serving. Ab Fab!!

    1 Reply
    1. re: Gio

      Gio, I took to doing the opposite from you when making my favorite barbecue sauce - I started doubling it, and keeping portions in the freezer so I could have it at the ready whenever I felt like cooking with it.

    2. Hey Chowhounds! Thanks for spending time in the kitchen with me and Screen Doors and Sweet Tea!

      1 Reply
      1. re: marthafoose

        Hey Miss Martha!!! Bless your heart..Glad you stopped by!!

        Fun & Enjoy!

      2. Comeback Sauce: Screen Doors and Sweet Tea, Pg. 69

        Chef Robert St. John calls Comeback Sauce, "the Queen Mother of all Mississippi condiments." Ms Fosse calls it, "heaven on a cracker." I'm not so sure. While it is tasty and piquant and a pretty shade of pink, it didn't excite me as much as I thought it would given all the spicy ingredients. Namely: Mayonnaise, salad oil (I used EVOO), chili sauce (yes, Heinz!), ketchup, Worcestershire, yellow mustard, hot pepper sauce (I used Sriracha), hot paprika, grated white onion, and finally minced garlic. All this stuff is whirred in a food processor till smooth. As a I added each ingredient to the FP all I could think of were the escalaing calories. I used the sauce as a salad dressing for a shredded iceberg, chopped cucumber and tomato salad. I kept the salad as simple as possible in order to get the full benefit of all the sauce's flavor. It Was good not great but that's only my opinion, after all. There's a ton of it left in the fridge.... it will keep for a week and I'll definitely use it all up as a condiment.

        When I make this again I'll omit the salad oil, bump up the chili sauce and hot sauce. BTW: I really like that chili sauce... that's a guilty pleasure in the making right there, y'all.

        3 Replies
        1. re: Gio

          Gio, you just made me actually go to the refridgerator and stick my finger in the bottle of chili sauce, just to get a little taste. Ahh, chile sauce, where have you been all my life?

          That dressing sounds a lot like what we used to call "Russian Dressing." Bet it would make a turkey rueben quite tasty.

          1. re: Gio

            Gio, try Thames Comeback Sauce. They bottle and sell it out of Oxford, MS but recipe coming from their restaurant Fat Tuesday's.

            Im from MS and everyone has their own twist to this versatile condiment, but theirs is the best Ive tried. We can buy it in our groceries but you could order some. My favorite thing is to roll some freshly boiled shrimp around in some Comeback and eat like that or on a salad. Best I can tell Thames doesnt use any onion and thats what makes theirs better to me. Enjoy!!

            www.thamesfoods.com can get you what you need.

            1. re: thomas morgan

              Why, thank you kindly, Thomas Morgan! I see there's no store that carries Thames in Massachusetts. I'll just have to order directly from them. Also, if I make the recipe from Screen Doors and Sweet Tea again I'll omit the onion and see how that is. Thank you.

          2. Country Remoulade BAYA pg 286

            Yum! The perfect thing to go with fried fish.

            I used Hellmans light mayo (that's what I had) and I didn't have any chives.
            The mustard I used was a coarse grained one with horseradish. That gave it a nice little extra "kick".

            I know I'll be making this often. It's SO much better than bottled remoulade and it's easy!

            1. Question re: Willis' Hot Pepper Vinegar recipe (page 284)

              Does anyone know what sized jar to use?

              Also, she refers us to page 279 to discuss jars, but page 279 seems to be part of the discussion re: water-bath canning.

              Does she intend for us to "can" the hot pepper vinegar in a water bath? Or is the hot pepper vinegar recipe just intended to be a fridge recipe? I think the latter, but if that's the case, I just don't understand why the reference to page 279, which, seems in no way illuminating regarding the hot vinegar sauce recipe.

              I'm very confused. Help!

              I'm disappointed Virginia Willis didn't answer my hot pepper vinegar question in the experts in residence thread, when it seemed like I might have a chance to get the answer directly from the author. http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/6549... So, if anyone has any insight, I would greatly appreciate it.

              ~TDQ

              4 Replies
              1. re: The Dairy Queen

                Jar size/type does not matter...As Miss Virginia says, almost all diners/meat and three establishments in the South have a bottle of Hot Pepper Vinegar (Commonly/locally called Pepper Sauce) available on the table or a counter nearby....As you can see, all manner of containers are used...Wine bottles, Whiskey bottles, Ketchup bottles etc. and Mason jars of every size.......

                The reference to page 279 is (I think) for sterilizing methods/ideas...An important step in the "recipe" ~~~ Start with a clean sterilized container!!

                Canning/processing is not needed/required...although sometimes when pouring the hot vinegar over the peppers and using a canning jar lid and ring...the lid will seal. Refrigeration is not needed due to the acidity of the vinegar....Personally, out of habit I add about a Teaspoon of non-iodized salt per quart before pouring the hot vinegar over the peppers...

                Have Fun & Enjoy!!!

                1. re: Uncle Bob

                  Thanks Uncle Bob. I chickened out doing this for gifts in 2009, but, hey, now I have all of 2010 to perfect it!

                  ~TDQ

                  1. re: The Dairy Queen

                    You're very welcome!!!

                    Have Fun!!!!

                  2. re: Uncle Bob

                    uncle bob, are those pepper sauces yours? beautiful! you must have a great pepper supply.

                2. Blueberry Jam (page 291)

                  It would never have occurred to me to look in this book for this recipe. But I looked up blueberry jam in eatyourbooks.com and there it was. The recipe suggests stirring a tablespoon of finely chopped candied ginger into the jam after it has reached the proper thickness and before being bottled. I didn’t have candied ginger, but I did have stem ginger in syrup. And I added a bit of the syrup, too. I’ve only had a taste, but with a bit of lemon and the hint of ginger this could become my go-to blueberry jam. I wonder if the ginger will be identifiable if you don’t know about it. I suspect it will just be that little je ne sais quois that makes it really special.

                  2 Replies
                  1. re: JoanN

                    Blueberry jam with ginger and lemon sounds absolutely fabulous! I know I would love it, even if the ginger isn't identifiable.

                    1. re: Caitlin McGrath

                      try lemon marmalade with ginger--swoon!

                  2. Jalapeño Tartar Sauce, Pg. 287, Bon Appetit Y'All

                    This delicious condiment, although enhancing fried fish superbly, it's also excellent for other types of fish dishes as well. Namely, our last night's dinner of cold steamed lobster. The sauce is very easy to make and after allowing the mixture to mellow in the fridge for an hour the combined seasonings really come alive and make a fine compliment to whatever you're serving. I even slathered it om my corn on the cob...!

                    The sauce ingredients are: Mayonnaise (Hellman's) a minced jalapeño, rinsed chopped capers, zest & juice from a half lemon, horseradish, hot sauce (Tabasco), S & P. Mix it all together and set in the fridge... serve cold. This is my Go To tartar sauce.