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Sept 2009 COTM: SOUTHERN Poultry

September 2009 Cookbooks of the Month:

SCREEN DOORS AND SWEET TEA: Recipes and Tales from a Southern Cook, by Martha Hall Foose (SDST)
&
BON APPETIT Y'ALL: Recipes and Tales from Three Generations of Southern Cooking, by Virginia Willis (BAYA)

Please post your full-length reviews of recipes for chicken, fowl, poultry, etc here. Please mention the name of the recipe you are reviewing and the book or author and page number, if possible, as well as any modifications you made to the recipe. This thread includes:

BAYA
Chapter 5: Gospel Birds and Game Birds

SDST
poultry dishes from Chapter 4: DIshes from the Backyard and Kitchen

A reminder that the verbatim copying of recipes to the boards is a violation of the copyright of the original author. Posts with copied recipes will be removed.

Happy Cooking!

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  1. Ain't No Thing, Chicken Wing: Screen Doors and Sweet Tea, Pg. 32

    The marinade and subsequent sauce from this recipe makes a very tasty dish. It can be used with shrimp, chicken and pork as well as wings. Because I ain't got no chicken wings I used boneless, skinless chicken thighs. And, ain't got no chili sauce so I used about 1/4 c Chinese chili paste with garlic mixed with 1/2 c ketchup. That combo alone was terrific but I digress. To the chili sauce cumin, ginger, cider vinegar, Tabasco, and honey are added and mixed. The meat is submerged in this goodness and marinated for an hour in the fridge, then baked in a 375 oven for 30 minutes, turned over and baked for an additional 20 minutes. Meanwhile the marinade is cooked till somewhat thickened...then the meat is brushed with the sauce and baked for about 8 minutes. Whoooooeeeeee.....what spicy, sweet, yummy deliciousness this is. And I ain't jes whistlin' Dixie. BTW: shoulda been "Ain't No Thang."

    The sides were the Roasted Beetroot salad from Ottolenghi and steamed Jasmine rice.

    7 Replies
    1. re: Gio

      Ohhh sounds delish, and easy! Thanks for the report.

      ~TDQ

      1. re: Gio

        Ever since Gio's report on this "Ain't No Thing, Chicken Wing" I've been dying to try this recipe. It's the thing that sent me back to the library to get Screen Doors for myself. And last night (I finally remembered to take the chicken thighs out of the freezer on time) I had the chance to make them.....

        But, yes there is that chili sauce conundrum. There are so many "chili sauces" available these days that I was shaking my head as to the appropriate sauce for this dish. Plus, an initial perusal of my local grocery didn't result in anything labeled just "chili sauce." So I thought this must be some kind of classic Southern condiment and pulled out my ever trustworthy cookbook The Women's Home Companion Cookbook (from the 1940's) and there in the pickling and preserving section was a recipe for Chile Sauce. So using the ingredients as a guide, back to the store I went. I read the labels for taco sauce and enchilada sauce. Both seemed pretty close....Then I thought to check again in the condiment aisle, and lo and behold, a bottle simply labeled "Chile Sauce." Must be the classic one thought I. I brought it home.

        Gio's big "Whoooooeeeeee" wasn't lost on me. Since I too used boneless, skinless thighs, and this was to be the main dish for dinner, I didn't want it to be overwhelminly spicy. So, I reduced the three tablespoons of hot pepper sauce called for to two, and added a tablespoon of water to equalize the liquid. And I'm glad I did. It had just the right amount of heat. Yummy and sinus-clearing at the same time.

        1. re: clamscasino

          Hey Clams... I'm not stalking you or anything....
          I have since learned that Heinz makes a product called Chili Sauce. (What doesn't Heinz make?)

           
          1. re: Gio

            Does it say "52 Varieties" on the bottle? I really wish our tomatoes did better this year. We're still waiting for them to ripen. Might just make me up a batch if they ever do.

            1. re: Gio

              Haven't seen that stuff in ages! My mother used to call it "chilla sauce." It was as if lightening would strike you if you pronounced it chili. Keep in mind this is the WASPy-ish woman I know ...

              1. re: Gio

                This is what I assume is meant by chili sauce in American recipes if not otherwise specified. Not spicy, but more piquant and less sweet than ketchup, with more flavoring ingredients; I generally have it in place of ketchup for those reasons (I find ketchup too sweet).

                1. re: Caitlin McGrath

                  I actually bought a bottle of the Chili Sauce today to use tonight for SDST's Come Back Sauce recipe, which report I'll make tomorrow AM. Both sauces are quite good. Don't know why it took me XXX years to taste the Heinz.

          2. Chicken Fricasee with Garlic and Red Wine Vinegar, BAY'A page 105

            Now I know y'all made and discussed this on Gio's original BAY'A thread, but just to let ya know...I made it last night. In the intro to the recipe, Willis says: "In France, this dish is often made with guinea hen, which has rich, dark meat, and much more complex flavor than chicken." Soooo, I thought this recipe was a good candidate for boneless, skinless chicken thighs. And it was!

            As were others, I had doubts about the red wine vinegar "good quality" thing, especially as Mr. Clam isn't too fond of vinegary stuff. But he wasn't home when I poured it in and never knew it was vinegar and not wine. (Let that be our little secret.) The Chowpup and I thought it was very good. Mr. Clam thought it was good but a little too "winey." I served it with the Baker's Potatoes from page 171. That was a good match, and wow, I actually followed two recipes at once....doesn't happen much around here.

            1 Reply
            1. re: clamscasino

              Once again I think the problem lies more with me than with the recipe, but this one didnt' work for me. I think in the end vinegary stuff (aside from salads) doesn't appeal. It was pleasant, but ... but maybe I never did find that perfect vinegar. I'm so glad everyone else is loving it.

            2. Herb Roast Chicken with Pan Sauce

              A classic roast chicken with a shallot-white wine pan sauce, this made a nice dinner last night, served with Baker's Potatoes. Chicken is seasoned with herbs de Provence (I used Penzey's), s&p, and lemon, rubbed with butter, and tied. I did this earlier in the day. Roast the chicken for 15 minutes at 450, decrease to 350 and roast for 15 minutes, then add chopped carrot and onion to the pan and continue to roast. I basted with a little bit of homemade chicken stock a few times. The pan sauce is made with shallots, white wine, and chicken stock. She never mentions what to do with the vegetables, but since they were roasted and caramelized, I seasoned them and served alongside the potatoes as a side dish.

               
              1 Reply
              1. re: Rubee

                I don't think there is anything quite as lovely as a perfectly roasted chicken.

                I use butter to hold the herbs de Provence and fresh lemon often when roasting a whole chicken, they are perfect for each other. Nicely done!

              2. New Southern Chicken and Herb Dumplings BAY'A pg. 236

                After I opened the "reply" box I realized this might not be be the right thread for this, since it's in the soups and stews chapter, but what the heck...

                Made this dish last night. What's not to like about chicken stew with dumplings on a chilly September evening? One starts by poaching chicken breasts, cubed, in chicken stock enhanced with a Bouquet garni. I didn't notice that I was supposed to cube first, but no harm done. As the chicken is cooking one assembles the dumpling dough. Then one sautees chopped onion "preferably Vidalia" with some sliced carrots and cubed sweet potato. Then one adds garlic. In goes the reserved stock, bring to a boil, then drop the dumplings in, cover and cook. Lastly one adds the cubed chicken then the spinach and two minutes later it's all done.

                Based on Lulu's Mom report in the original BAYA thread, I was wary of the dumpling part. Would mine be dense and heavy too? I was particulary wary of mixing the dumpling dough in advance of it being called for in the recipe. Since baking powder will start reacting as soon as it hits the liquid (warmed milk with butter melted into it) I thought that might be Lulu's Mom's problem. So, I mixed the dry ingredients together and did not add the milk mixture until just before adding the dumplings to the stew.

                When I did add the milk mixture to the bowl of dry ingredients, a rather strange thing happened. After one or two quick stirs (never overmix your dumplings) the whole thing kind of puffed up with the flour totally absorbing that liquid. It was acutally dry!

                Dropping the rounded tablespoons of dumplings into the stew, Chowpup, who was stirring, and I both remarked: "that's a whole lotta dumplins." We had to monitor the pot closely for overflow. I should have used a larger pot, as you can see by my picture....wasn't quite sure how I was even going to fit all chicken in. But I did.

                This dish was delicious and perfect for a Thursday night one dish meal. We stuffed ourselves in a most "comforting" way. (Chowpup now wants me to buy this book so she can make notes in the margins.) One note though: I didn't think the flavor of the Parmagiano-Reggiano cheese included in the dumplings came through. Next time I would use more.

                 
                 
                5 Replies
                1. re: clamscasino

                  I have yet to make this dish. It's been on my To Make list since May! Now's the time I guess. Your pictures look sooooo enticing.

                  I love that your Chowpup is helping you in the kitchen. That's what my children did when they were young also.

                  1. re: Gio

                    Thanks Gio. Chowpup has been helping me in the kitchen for most of her 16 years. I actually used to cook with her in her backpack. What I really love is that now she is cooking on her own occassionally. And, she is teaching her friends how to properly measure ingredients for baking.

                    1. re: clamscasino

                      Oh gosh.. Sweet sixteen??? She has to branch out on her own. But I see that she's already done that and teaching her friends. Good for her!

                  2. re: clamscasino

                    Looks wonderful. I'm glad that in some way my report was of some help. I don't *think* I mixed the dough in advance, but it's been a few months now. I really want to try this again, especially now that the weather is cooling down a bit. We did love the flavor. Anyway, glad it was a hit.

                    1. re: LulusMom

                      LulusMom, your report was very helpful. I hope you make it again soon. FWIW, I used King Arthur All Purpose ("never bleached, never bromated") flour.

                  3. Oven-Fried Chicken Breast with Pecan Crust, BAYA p. 102

                    Delicious! I made it for a dinner party and everyone liked it. The pecan flavor in the crust really came through. We all enjoyed the Vidalia Honey Mustard dressing that went with it too (although I used Walla Walla, because that was what was available). I was a little apprehensive as I was making this dish that it would be a gussied up versions of chicken fingers and too sweet dipping sauce, but not at all. The dressing was quite tangy, in fact.

                    However, I was very sad to pour 4 cups of buttermilk down the drain after it had been used to brine the chicken. Such a waste. How much difference does the buttermilk really make? Could I have used just 2 cups, which would have been sufficient to cover the 4 breasts Or brine in water and dip in buttermilk before the egg? Actually, the buttermilk still clinging to the chicken made it hard for the egg mixture to adhere. I guess I'm not convinced about this part. The flavor of the egg mix (with mustard and thyme) was great and definitely came through.

                    There was excess egg dip left, no surprise, but the pecan panko mixture got used up entirely by 4 breasts -- I don't know what I would have done if I had had 6 breasts to coat. I used tongs to serve the breasts off of the rack, but I think a spatula might have been better, because the coating did tend to crack and fall off when I handled them with the tongs.

                    But all in all, very tasty! I accompanied ith with Corn Spoon Bread and Smoky Collard (chard) greens.

                    2 Replies
                    1. re: Karen_Schaffer

                      I made this for dinner last night and thought it was meh. I cut the buttermilk to 2 cups, and no matter how much I stirred, the salt wouldn't dissolve. Cold buttermilk is not a good conductor of flavor, so there was no hint of garlic or bay in the cooked chicken.

                      1. re: pikawicca

                        Hmm, I didn't have a problem dissolving the salt (I used a whisk), but as I say, I too am not convinced that there was much benefit to the buttermilk. The flavors I could really taste were the mustard & thyme from the egg mixture and the pecan crust. If I make it again, I would probably brine in just salted water, not bother with the garlic or bay leaves, and dry the breasts before dipping in the egg mixture (add the paprika here perhaps?), which might help the crust stick better.