Bay of Naples - Pozzuoli, Ercolano, Vomero recommendations?
- jen kalb Aug 30, 2009 07:48 PM
we are planning a return visit to Naples this fall - renting on the hillside in Vomero so looking for convenient food shopping, especially for bread and pastries, and evening dining recommendations - we will be close to all three funiculars so we neednt stay up there.
also seeking ideas for Pozzuoli and Ercolano - we will be using public transport to visit Herculaneum and the Flegreian Fields sites so we want lunch places we can access on foot.
any recommended places to buy wines or liqueurs?
Jen, in Pozzuoli do not miss LA FATTORIA DEL CAMPIGLIONE. It is a very good restaurant but, really, as close to an important fish harbor, the specialty is grilled meat and not fish. The cellar is very wide and good. Look at its website: www.lafattoriadelcampiglione.it .
About Ercolano, I recommend you the very good restaurant VIVA LO RE www.vivalore.it .
The true typical local food and smart palce to buy wine its wine shop for take away and drink at home.
In Naples, in the center, do not miss coffee and breakfast at GAMRINUS www.caffegambrinus.com .
In the central area named Chiaia, close to one of the three funiculars, you will search for the gastronomia ARFE' and there you will buy the best for some delightful dinner at your home www.arfe.it .
Anyway, about the smart addresses in Naples, I can give you more and the best; so feel free to ask me, I will be glad to help you in a better way.
I was born in Naples and I know very well this unqiue town.
Many thanks! If you are recommending meat in Pozzuoli, where should I look for the best seafood meals, taking into account that we are not big spenders/lovers of luxury? Remember also we wont have a car.
I had the best seafood of our last visit, not on the Amalfi coast, tho we had some good fish there, but at the place you had recommended in Pompeii., Zi Caterina.
re: jen kalb
Jen, I am glad that you liked Zi Caterina in Pompei. And now in Pompei I can recommend you a new restaurant: IL GIARDINO DELLE ESPERIDI www.ilgiardinodelleesperidi.it . Charming, elegant, great food and smart wines.
About seafood, as you stay in Naples, have a delightful experience at VADINCHENIA.
Until few months ago it was not well known to tourists but only to local people (as I am).
Now, after a review on NYTIMES, I see that American tourists are discovering this good restaurant.
It is close enough one of the funiculars and you will enjoy it.
One of the funiculars to/from Vomero ends at the Pignasecca street market, one of the city's liveliest shipping streets. In Pozzuoli, we had a nice, simple seafood meal at Trattoria Il Capitano on the Lungomare--no decor to speak of, except for superb overhead lighting and the tv constantly on, but straightforward polpo, cozze, calamari ripieni, ecc. Probably best for lunch. Pasticcerie/gelati in Naples: Scimmia, Scaturchio, Moccia (Chiaia) for baba. Don Salvatore in Mergellina is a fine, traditional ristorante. For street food, closer to home, Friggitoria Vomero on via Cimarosa has been recommended. I know you're familiar with Luciano Pignataro's web guide to Campania--he updates every day, so check frequently. Have a great stay. Mi fa invidia....
Just back from Naples (as you know) and what I would give to trade places with you - what an excellent idea to park yourself on Vomero and totally enjoy your time there. We really liked La Starita pizzaria, which came from a suggestion here. Easy to get there by public transportation, particularly from Vomero. (Via Materdei/ Materdei transit stop)
Take a look a the Naples transportation artecard Campi Flegeri 3 day package as it also includes the hop on/hop off bus in Pozzuoli which takes you out to all the roman ruins and Bacoli which had several restaurant recomemdations in the SlowFoods guide.
I hope you can take the short boat trip to Procida and take the local bus and/or walk to Scarabeo on Via Salette and dine under their massive lemon arbors. Be sure to also take the walk to the other small marina on the island that is not the port where the boats come in as it has many seaside restaurants there as well.
Procida is as romantic as they come without all the tourism hassle of Capri. If you are walkers, then this whole island is easily doable or use the little bus that goes most places but not as convenient as walking.
Second the recommendation about Scimmia (various locations) for gelato. There is some bad gelato in this town so by all means do a lot of field testing and report back with your best finds. We found a great wine and olive oil shop on Via Tribunali - small and you down some steps to enter but they have it all and knowledgable staff - about midway on the street on the port side.
Be sure to take the Subterranean tour which you can also find off Via Tribunali, particularly if it is hot -they have English language tours at 2pm when everything is closed and one wants to get out of the heat. Then you can go to Scimmia on Spacconapoli for your gelato once you hit the hot streets again.
hey, do you actually know that the archeobus in Campo Flegri is operating? there have been lots of reports that its not running anymore on travel sites (including a report from someone last year that locals laughed when someone asked for it)and I cant see anything about it ion UnicoCampania or any of the other transit websites. A current report that its on again would be very good news. Still trying to decide on Ischia vs. Procida for our island day - your report is very enticing.
thanks for all the recs especially the transit reminder for Starita - the only downside I can see of our location is that the funiculars stop at 10 pm so we have to scope out the other travel options late at night or stay local. Im trying to remember the oil and vino place you are talking about - do you mean the port alba end?
re: jen kalb
Just a few weeks ago we got the 3 day Artcard for Campi Flegeri and took the train to Pozzuoli ( our mistake was to use Trenitalia from Napoli Centrale, but one should only go by metro starting at Montesanto as it is closer to the hop on hop off bus stop).
The metro from Montesanto is also confusing because there is a northern loop that I believe is called Cumana and there is the southern route which is called Campi Flegeri or Pozzuoli - you want the southern route, not the Cumana one - no one is around to tell you these things)
The roman ruins HOHO bus stop in front of the harbor a block or so down from the metro stop (not the train stop which is quite a ways away)
La Solfetara volcanic area was a bit of a disappointment having been to Iceland but is worth the extra cost (you get a discount on your Artcard) to see it and take some time to sit a bit under the trees and get something at the deli for the campgrounds (gotta talk about food here) and realize how geologically volatile this area has long been. They say things are starting to heat up again here so stay tuned. The history and evidence of volcanic earth shifts in this area is extraordinary.
All the roman ruins out that way are called "one entrance" so you don't lose your other free entrance fees with this card if you visit multiple roman ruin sites on this part of the trip.
The package is really great but almost impossibile to figure out and getting out there on the Trenitaila train, even though it is included, leaves you high and dry with little information how to connect to the HOHO bus. We had to just stumble our way around and walk all over before by sheer luck finding the local tourist info office who sent us on our way with another long walk to get to the HOHO bus stop, only to learn it is right next to the Tram stop for Pozzouli. We swore we would try to help others to make it easier because it is a pretty nifty package. So there you have it.
No contest: Procida for your island trip (particularly if you are walkers) and remember the restaurant Scarabeo for a total delight.
when we wre there in fall 2009 there was no hop on hop off bus service. transport around the who Campo Flegrei region was highly problematic with several of the mapped train stations without service and and substituted buses available sporadically. An area of Campania where things are not working that smoothly.
adding a couple of links to this thread
Viva Lo Re
Corso Resina 261, Ercolano, Campania 80056, IT
Il Giardino delle Esperide
Via Acqua Salsa, Pompei, Campania 80045, IT
Via Roma 20, Pompei, Campania , IT
Via Pontano, 21, Naples, Campania 80122, IT
Starita a Mater Dei
Via Materdei, 27, Naples, Campania 80136, IT
La Fattoria dei Campiglione
Via Vicinale Campana,2, Pozzuoli, Campania , IT
Via Salette,10, Procida, Campania 80079, IT