Better Than Bacon?! The Eclectic, Quirky and Sometimes Delicious Cuisine of The Gorbals [Review] w/ Pics!
(Formatted with All Pictures here:
Opening a new restaurant in this economy can be a tough endeavor, especially in the City of Angels where the culinary landscape is crowded to say the least. To stand out in an already crowded market is probably the greatest challenge facing new chefs these days. So when I read the initial reports on Eater LA about The Gorbals, with its Haggis Burger(!), Bacon-Wrapped Matzoh Balls and other bizarre dishes, they had at least partially succeeded, standing out with their eclectic menu.
I confess I've never watched Top Chef, so I'm not familiar with Chef-Owner Ilan Hall's cooking as the winner of Top Chef Season 2. But the menu alone had me intrigued and I couldn't wait to try Chef Hall's dishes at The Gorbals. According to their website, The Gorbals is named after an immigrant neighborhood in Scotland. When I mentioned the restaurant to one of my Scottish friends, he freaked out, surprised that there'd a restaurant based on a "tough, tough neighborhood" that he and his friends used to avoid.
The Gorbals is located in the lobby of the old Alexandria Hotel in Downtown L.A. It's an odd location, as the hotel itself was built in 1906 (and retains a very old, rundown feel). Walking to the Alexandria, it's not uncommon to see homeless people hovering about and low-income residents resting in the lobby. It's certainly not a posh or trendy setting.
The interior of the restaurant is very spartan and simple: White walls, simple tables with a zig-zaggy bar at one end, and the kitchen entirely in view for those wishing to see what Chef Hall and his staff are up to at any moment.
Chef Hall has worked for Tom Collicchio at Craft New York, and at Mario Batali and Andy Nusser's Casa Mono. I was curious what influences might show up in the dishes here at The Gorbals.
The first dish to arrive is the Rarebit with Chicken Egg.
I'm not an expert on Rarebit (Chef Hall uses a blend of Guinness Beer, Cheddar Cheese, Worcestershire Sauce and Cayenne Pepper), but ultimately it felt a little underwhelming. The bread wasn't toasted and rather dense, and the sauce was lukewarm. Breaking the Egg Yolk adds a nice creaminess to each bite, but in the end it tastes like a slightly bitter, lightly creamy, Worcestershire Sauce-dominant piece of bread.
The next dish is reason alone to visit The Gorbals: Gribenes, Lettuce and Tomato on Rye.
It's an absolutely brilliant idea, taking the standard BLT Sandwich and replacing the Bacon with Gribenes (super-crisped, roasted Chicken Skin) for a "GLT." Taking a bite...
The Crispy Chicken Skin is honestly soul-moving in its succulence. It's lightly fatty, buttery in flavor while being so crisp. I love Bacon, but I think Gribenes may have just supplanted Bacon, at least for this dish. :) When combined with the fresh Lettuce and Tomato and beautifully soft Rye, it's truly the definition of savory! Delicious! (^_^)
Their Haggis Burger, Turnip Pickles and Highland Park Aioli is probably the wildest-sounding dish on their menu (and the first thing that caught my eye when reading about the restaurant).
Chef Hall makes this Haggis Burger with a blend of Lamb Liver, Lamb Heart and Lamb Meat mixed with Oatmeal and Onions. The Haggis Patty is a bit too crumbly and prone to fall apart. There's a touch of the metallic liver aftertaste mixed with some gaminess, but not enough of the Lamb essence I was hoping to get. The Bun is also too soft, falling apart long before the Burger is finished.
The next dish showed off some of the missteps from opening night: Cucumber Salad Zahatar.
According to the server, Chef Hall's Zahatar is a blend of Sumac, Sesame, Black Pepper and Hyssop. It sounds intriguing, but when the dish arrives, all you can taste is a simple dressing of Black Pepper and Oil. Confused, I ask the server, who says (too late) that "Oh we didn't have the Zahatar ready," so basically this was a very simple salad of fresh Cucumbers and fried Sesame Leaves tossed in Black Pepper.
The Gefilte Fish and Chips, Dill Vinegar is another interesting interpretation of a classic dish.
Whitefish mixed with Eggs and Matzoh Meal is deep-fried and mixed with fresh Dill. The result is a slightly too salty, but unique version of Fish and Chips: There's a light crispiness on the outside crust, and a light chew and meatiness inside.
The Fries are already seasoned with Dill Vinegar, which has a nice tart and herbal undertone. Unfortunately it's far too salty.
Their Manischewitz-braised Pork Belly, Clapshot and Mustard arrives next. Chef Hall marinates the Pork Belly in Manischewitz Red Wine before braising it and serving it atop Clapshot, which is a mix of Mashed Turnips and Mashed Potatoes with Butter and Chives.
The Pork Skin is a little dense and hard to chew, but the rest of the Pork Belly is delicious: It's lightly seasoned (refreshingly so), unctuous and meaty.
The Clapshot is wonderfully delicious, a nice blend of the best textures of Mashed Turnips and Potatoes, with a nice amount of Butter. Strangely, there wasn't any Mustard present anywhere in this dish.
Finally, the Lamb Breast and Mint arrives to finish off the evening.
When I first heard the term "Lamb Breast" I was curious if this was a leaner cut like Chicken Breast, but it turns out that Chef Hall uses the Lamb Breast with Bone and does a confit before finishing it off in the oven.
The Lamb Breast is very fatty, juicy, with a crisped outer crust. It's really rustic and wild, and if there was a Lamb version of Pork Belly, this would be it. :) It's wonderful and sinful, and like some dishes at Animal, best if shared with 2-3 people (just a couple bites is enough :).
For the first night, The Gorbals exhibited all the unfortunate problems of an inexperienced restaurant: Dinner took nearly 3 Hours(!) because of pacing issues. Sometimes the wait was between 30 - 40 minutes before the next dish arrived. The final dish I had ordered - Turkey Wing - never showed up; after waiting about 30 minutes, the server curtly says, "Oh, sorry, we don't have Turkey Wing tonight. I just found out." Sigh.
On the 2nd visit to The Gorbals, I was hoping that things would improve over the first visit. The first dish to arrive is the Octopus with Gizzards and Lemon.
It's definitely a strange combination, after all when was the last time you saw Chicken Gizzards and Octopus mixed together in one dish? :) But this dish felt a bit disappointing: The Octopus is overcooked, with many of its tentacles charred, the Chicken Gizzards are crisp, so moist with a light funk. It's delicious. Together, the combination feels like it's trying too hard to be "different."
Sweetbreads with Cashew and Corn arrive quickly afterward.
Sweetbreads are inherently creamy, so when this is crusted with Cashew and Flour and Deep-Fried, and then put on top of Sweet Corn lavished with Butter, it's too greasy, rich and overwhelming for my tastes. There's a great crust on the Sweetbreads, and the Smoked Paprika Butter on the Corn really makes it sing. When combined, the sweetness of the Corn is a nice complement to the Deep-Fried Sweetbreads, for a bite or two, and then it just overwhelms the senses.
Another of the more interesting sounding dishes arrives soon after: Bacon-Wrapped Matzoh Balls, Horseradish Mayonnaise.
In principle it's already a little shocking with the combination of Bacon and Matzoh Balls, but taste-wise it's simply wonderful! :) Perfectly crisped Bacon adds this lusciousness to each Matzoh Ball, and with a dab of the Horseradish Mayonnaise, it tastes like a classic combination. I would've liked to taste more Horseradish in the Mayo, but otherwise, this is excellent.
The next dish is a bit misleading: Manila Clam Omelet, Green Onions and Garlic. But I suppose it's part of the cooking without borders concept at The Gorbals.
By the name alone, one might expect a traditional Omelet, with chunks of Clams inside the mainly Egg dish. Chef Hall's version is the opposite: Mostly Clams (and Shell) with flecks of Eggs, Green Onion and Garlic throughout.
The Manila Clams are lightly briny and really match the bits of Egg, but the whole dish feels a bit meager. Perhaps it's the expectations of an "Omelet" that get in the way, but seeing a plate of ~7-8 Clams with tiny bits of Egg feels like a bit of a letdown.
Their King Oyster Mushrooms, Warm Marrow, Walnut Vinaigrette is a dish I was really looking forward to (I love Bone Marrow :). Sadly, the King Oyster Mushrooms are very tough and hard to chew. There's also a bit too much Vinaigrette, as the Mushrooms are completely saturated in an extremely tart flavor.
The Bone Marrow is very lightly seasoned and deliciously buttery and fatty. The tartness of the Vinaigrette and Mushrooms are probably meant to cut through the fattiness of the Marrow, but the tartness overpowers the dish.
Their Chilled Tomato Soup, Bread Salad also proves a bit disappointing.
Similar to a Gazpacho, Chef Hall blends in Tomatoes, Cucumbers, Roasted Red Peppers, Garlic and Olive Oil. But taking a sip, it's shockingly sour. With access to the wonderful Farmer's Market produce and with Tomatoes being in season still, these tasted like out-of-season Tomatoes.
The Turkey Wing, Fatback Tabouleh rebounds nicely.
The centerpiece is the wonderfully crispy, oven-roasted Turkey Wing: Nicely crunchy Turkey Skin and a really moist, just cooked through interior.
The Fatback Tabouleh is just outrageous in its concept. :) A classic light and herbal dish is taken in an opposite direction with the inclusion of Pork Fatback: There's this viscous, Pork Fat quality to the Tabouleh, which still retains some of its fragrant, grassy notes. The combination works pretty well here and is another standout on the menu.
The final dish of the evening is their Sheppard's Pie in Potato with Egg (sic).
Chef Hall bakes marinated Ground Beef and Mashed Potatoes in a Potato Skin, and tops it with a Quail Egg. I was hoping the Potato Skin would be crisped enough to eat, but it's really thick and hard to cut through.
The Beef, Mashed Potatoes and Quail Egg add up to a tasty if super-rich dish. The Mashed Potatoes are gorgeously buttery, add the Ground Beef's inherent fattiness and the Soft-Boiled Quail Egg Yolk's creaminess and it's another delicious dish for a bite or two before it's just too much.
The pacing on the 2nd visit was much better than the 1st: Most of the dishes came out within ~5-10 minutes of each other, except the last 2 dishes, which took upwards of 30 minutes to finally come out. Another thing to note is that The Gorbals is *loud*. With the simple walls and concrete flooring, and no audio dampening, it makes Comme Ca and Osteria Mozza pale in comparison.
Service for the first visit was challenging: The server was a bit clueless at times and failed to mention problems (no Zahatar) or missing dishes until it was too late. The second visit's service was better and adequate. Prices range from $5 - $15 per dish.
The Gorbals certainly stands out in its unique menu, from Haggis Burgers to Octopus with Chicken Gizzards, and while it's eye-catching and in theory very different, the end result in regards to the most important aspect - the taste - is a bit of a hit-or-miss. It's an extremely rich and heavy menu (despite the small portions), and one would hope that Chef Hall will add additional dishes that balance it out a bit more. While there are some disappointments, there are also some flashes of brilliance: The Gribenes (Crisped Chicken Skin), Lettuce, Tomato on Rye is simply *amazing*, the Lamb Breast Confit, Manischewitz-braised Pork Belly with Clapshot and Bacon-Wrapped Matzoh Balls all are worth trying as well. If Chef Hall can lighten up the menu and resolve the pacing and service issues, The Gorbals will soon be on its way to being a destination worth stopping by Downtown for.
*** Rating: 7.0 (out of 10.0) ***
501 S. Spring St.
Los Angeles, CA 90013
Tel: (213) 488-3408
Hmmm... the LA Times seems to publish a story on a restaurant again after an exilekiss posting. Is it because both are on the pulse of the LA food scene or is it because a certain newspaper is on the pulse of a certain chowhounder? I like the LAT, so I'll guess it's the former.
Another interesting review by the OP. I have no idea how he/she has all this money to eat out all the time or how he/she knows what restaurants are opening up when. ha. Amazing.
I think it's funny that many of the dishes my grandmother would make are now considered cutting edge cuisine. Been there, done that. ;) Love you, Grandma!
If you enjoy the "gribenes," you'd probably also enjoy a schmear of schmaltz on the rye. I wonder when the "I only cook Spanish food while I'm on Top Chef" Ilan will be putting that on the menu.
And, totally an aside, what a terrible name for a restaurant. I tend to think of a certain terrible Nazi when I hear that name... and, oddly enough, Timmy from South Park calling out the name of a turkey.
Having written for the LA Times and knowing other writers there (albeit, not food writers), I can safely assure you of two, not mutually exclusive things:
1) Any good food writer worth his or her salt would scan things like food blogs for possible ideas. There's nothing wrong with that, especially since part of the whole point of blogging is to circulate specialized information. Moreover, if I hear about a new restaurant via a blog and decide to review it for a newspaper, I'm not obligated to say, "I first read about this place at Chowhound." It'd be like reviewing an album and acknowledging that you first heard about it through Stereogum; it's just not a necessary gesture.
Ethical issues would arise however if I'm lifting my IDEAS about a restaurant (or album or movie or whatever) from someone else's work and not crediting it. So if Jessica Gelt had written her review of the Gorbals and included a line about "The GLT is better than Bacon?" then I'd look quite askew at said writer.
2) Newspapers, especially the LA Times, take several days, if not weeks, to go from pitch to draft to final edit to publication. Exilekiss' review appeared on 8/30. The LA Times came out with their review today. There is no possible way that the Times could have moved quickly enough to have used Exilekiss' review for anything at all. The piece was probably already submitted days before EK's review ever appeared.
Illan Hall is a celebrity chef, more or less. He's precisely the kind of chef, with a new restaurant, that would fall onto the radar of a newspaper. I'd be more suspicious of a case where there's some tiny hole in the wall spot, out in the sticks, that gets a glowing Chowhound review and then a LAT piece shows up about it a week later.
Fair enough... although, this just stuck out to me because he/she (not sure about the OP's gender) wrote about a hole-in-the-wall...well...hole-in-the-strip-mall ramen place... that showed up on the LAT's website VERY soon after the posting. This was just an observation AND a nod to the OP for another entertaining review (as well as to my Grandmother who pretty much made similar food, sans the use of pork or scottish dishes).
Like I said in the posting... I tend to feel the LAT is also on the pulse of the LA food scene but I also feel, in general, there is a lack of originality in the media. (I know, I know, not an original thought either...c'est la vie).
With all that said, I'm hungry for some crispy chicken skin, sliced heirlooms, and lettuce in between some bread. ;) I'll pick some heirlooms up at the Torrance farmer's market, some crunchy rye from Langers.... and the cripsy chicken skin... well, I'll make that myself.
By the way, if Exilekiss visits Manhattan anytime soon, he/she should stop by Sammy's Roumanian Steakhouse for a meal. It's a hoot.
Thanks for your thoughts. :) I wouldn't say the LAT copied anything; they seem to be on the ball on many openings, but thanks for the interesting observations. :)
I'm so bummed I never knew about Gribenes until now. I can't imagine how good your Grandma's cooking was incorporating all the better things from the menu I tried. Thanks again.
Cooking without borders? That's rustling -- a capital offense in the Old West -- but the GLT on rye really does sound good (Mr. Woo meet Mr. Cohen) and worth the trip. I'm not sure whether the idea of "Manischewitz-braised Pork Belly" would have made my Jewish ex-wife laugh or take an insult. (She was good at both.) But I find the idea about as appealing as pork braised in cherry-flavored cough syrup. BTW, to this native son, the hotel sounds like the perfect setting for an old-style steakhouse -- a Taylor's but with great steaks.
Another outstanding, even courageous, review, EK!
Great review! I went there opening night, and agree with what you said about the dishes that we both tried....
I'm going back for your recommended "flashes of brilliance" that I had not yet tried: The Gribenes...and King Oyster Mushrooms (while you noted here was too much vinagarette on the mushrooms, your description of the bone marrow left me drooling)
I'm going to re-order the pork belly and Bacon-Wrapped Matzoh Balls and Sheppard's Pie again.
The cucumber salad and rarebit didin't knock my socks off, but still on a lesser foodie website, I still rated Gorbals a 5 out of 5.
I agree, the surrounding area was scary. Had several ask for either money or called me "baby" in a leering way. Definitely do valet.
Thanks for the interesting review. To be honest, I was totally put off by Ilan's obnoxious personality on Top Chef, so I wasn't thinking of patronizing his restaurant. So I was kind of relieved to hear that the food & service is pretty inconsistent...I think I can miss out on it and still sleep at night. :)
Exilekiss-great review as usual, thank you! I just came from a week long eating extravaganza in NYC and ate at the restaurant of Top Chef Season 1 winner, Harold Dieterle, called Perilla and loved it. I would start w/ Season 1. Be forewarned, it's addictive! The recent Top Chef Masters was a fun series to watch too - watching these masters cave and realize it isn't so easy. Great fun!
Sorry for the delay; post-vaca delayed re-entry I fear. ; )
I only did the prix fixe but really enjoyed it. Had mussels (in a thai flavored i.e. coconut, kaffir, etc broth), skate (I eat a lot of skate when in NYC b/c we NEVER see it out here) and a warm peach cobbler. I will say that we get WAY better tasting peaches out this way - I say that not just from the dish at Perilla but b/c I also bought the best smelling peaches at the Union Sq. Greenmarket while there to use in a fig/peach/burrata/arugula salad and they just had minimal flavor. My friend also ordered the bacon wrapped figs which were delish but hard to go wrong there. We sat at the bar and the service was wonderful. I think partly because of the location, it really does feel like this wonderful neighborhood place.
Thank you for your thoughts. It's unfortunate to hear that Chef Hall was obnoxious on Top Chef (I guess I'm glad I never saw the show). Yah, I would say based on the places you recommend and enjoy, The Gorbals currently still needs some work / time before it's a must-visit restaurant.