Best cities in Asia to visit for chowing?

[Lina]

I know, it's insanely broad question! I'm going backpacking for 6-12 months around Asia starting in October and I have no itinerary as of yet.

I would love to take cooking classes in as many countries as I can. I'm also very interested in street food.

The countries I'm thinking of visiting are: Japan, China, Hong Kong, Korea, Thailand, Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Malaysia and Indonesia. This is very flexible, though. The only one that is definite is Japan because that is where I will start.

So what cities would you recommend? If you're a local, any chance you'd be willing to go out to lunch with me?

[klyeoh]

Lucky you! I wish I can do the same.You're right - your question's too broad. I've been to all the countries on your list except Laos & Cambodia so can't comment on those.

Based on the rest, my personal top 3 fave cities to chowhound are:
1) Penang, Malaysia - the choices are insane!!
2) Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
3) Bangkok - good eateries at almost every street!

Perhaps you can tell us what kind of food you like in particular.

[Lina]

I know my question is too broad, but I don't know where to start planning and I only have 6 weeks before I leave! I love all Asian food that I've tried so far, and I'm planning on taking cooking classes in as many countries as I can. I'm very interested in street food as well, and because I will be travelling alone street food is probably going to be one of my main sources of nutrition. Thanks for all the suggestions so far.

prasantrin, why didn't you like Cambodian food? I've never tried it.

[prasantrin]

Cambodian food is very similar to Thai food, but without the complexity of flavours or the punch. I grew up with Thai food (I'm half Thai), so eating Cambodian food often seemed like eating not-very-good Thai food to me. People without those emotional connections to Thai food, may appreciate Cambodian food more than I did.

But it could also just be that because of Cambodia's history, the food just developed the way it did. It's a very poor country, and people have/had a lot more to be concerned about than how to make their food taste good.

And it could also be that home-cooked Cambodian food is different from restaurant food. Like Moroccan food, maybe you just can't get a good Cambodian meal in a restaurant.

I do know people who enjoyed the food in Cambodia, but most of them have very different taste buds than I, and very different backgrounds.

[M_Gomez]

You must visit
- Malacca (or Melaka), Malaysia - good street food like satay celop, chicken rice balls, chendol, Nonya curry laksa, Portuguese-Malaccan food like curry debal, beef semur and ikan chuen-chuan
- Macau for truly great pork chop in a bun, Macanese egg tarts, African chicken, feijoada, pork rissoles, minchi.
- Hong Kong for its Cantonese roast duck/chicken/pork/goose/pigeon etc etc
- Penang and Kuala Lumpur for stupendous hawker food (forget Bangkok!)

[prasantrin]

In terms of food, Cambodia can be taken off the list.

But in terms of historical and cultural significance, Angkor Wat and the other temples should not be missed. I'd do a few days to do the temples, then spend time in Laos for better food (I've not been to Laos, but have heard good things).

[lulubelle]

Siem Reap is in the top five of places I have been anywhere, it's truly spectacular, but as a chow destination, mmeh, it's pretty lame. We basically ate French food or at the FCC the entire time we were there. Oh, and some of the best gelato I've had anywhere in the world.

[pilinut]

Top of my list is Singapore. I don't even know where to begin. . .Laksa (Singaporean style, of course), popiah, banana leaf curry, roti canai, nasi padang, curry puffs. . . check out Makansutra. Take a look at Bourdain's No Reservations episode. Singapore has to be one of the best dining towns in the world.

Other advantages: very good standards of hygiene, even for street food; high safety level for single travelers; and almost everyone speaks English.

One can dine fabulously in Manila, but it costs more than in other places in Asia and one needs to be clued in.

You may want to take a look at Simon Majumdar's book, "Eat My Globe." He very amusingly covers some of the places you are thinking of.

[M_Gomez]

pilinut, I'm so flattered that you chose Singapore as top of your list. Altho I'm true-blue Singaporean (by way of Melaka), I do feel that you can get better hawker food in Malaysia - except that Singapore (due to tiny geographical size) is more convenient & reachable.

Anyway, for the items that you listed - here are my suggestions/alternative places for getting a better version:

a) Singapore laksa - oh well, it has to be Singapore. And my favourites are 328 Katong Laksa and 49 Katong Laksa. Both have their distinct flavours.
b) Popiah. I get better ones in Malaysia :- Melaka (Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock) or Penang (Padang Brown) or Ipoh Old Town.
c) Banana leaf curry - Apollo, Race Course Road Singapore is good. But you should also check out Malaysian spots like Johore Bharu, Melaka, KL (Brickfields), Klang Little India (Selangor) and Penang.
d) Roti canai - we call it roti prata in Singapore. Best is Jalan Kayu. Better ones in Brickfields and Medan Pasar (Kuala Lumpur), Penang's Little India and any town in Malaysia. You should also try the sweet roti canai (stuffed with bananas) in Kelantan, Malaysia.
e) Nasi padang - Malaysia has better ones, ANYWHERE. My favourite in Singapore is River Valley Nasi Padang.
f) Curry puffs - oh, definitely in Malaysia!!

[huaqiao]

I went to both Singapore and KL a few years back specifically for food. While KL might have better renditions of specific dishes compared to Singapore, it's an absolute nightmare to navigate. Reading some KL blogs, I went there with a list of places that I wanted to try. Once I got there I found out they were all way far away from the city center(like 30-45 min).

Convenience is huge when you travel to eat. The best bah kut teh in the world doesn't matter when it's 35 miles away at a small highway rest stop.

The hawker center setup in Singapore is genius. Even the hawker centers off the beaten path are only a short cab ride away.

I'm sure if you had family or friends to drive you around, KL is an amazing for food. But for a tourist who's not intimately familiar with the city, it's really frustrating. I would definitely make return trips to Singapore in the future for food, but I would probably skip KL in favor of more convenient food cities.

[PBSF]

For me, has to be Singapore, Hong Kong then either Kuala Lumpur or Penang in Malaysia.

[FourSeasons]

Sorry, too difficult to answer your question since there are so many cities to be included. I am not familiar with Thailand/Vietnam/Loas/Cambodia but all the other places are great for foodies.

How can you skip Japan? Even the French have agreed that Tokyo is the best city for foodies, earning more Michelin stars than Paris or any other European city. Hong Kong...just right at the epicenter of Cantonese and Chiu Chow cuisine. China: Shanghai is the place to go for Shanghai, JiangSu and Zhejiang cuisine; go to Beijing for Beijing/DongBei/Si chuan/Hunan/Guizhoou/Shandong cuisine. Korea, go to the above search function and read the the past thread written by schung. Indonesia...focus on Jakarta as it is the melting pot of Indonesia cuisine.

[M_Gomez]

Fourseasons, ha-ha -I think you missed what Lina said in her initial post ... she did say she's starting with Japan, which is her only definite destination at the moment.

[FourSeasons]

Forgot to mention Macau...a hidden gem for foodies, from street food all the way to haute cuisine.

[steve h.]

macau as a food destination?
i know the street food. what are the hidden gems?
not too interested in the hotel/casino stuff.

[M_Gomez]

Oh, how I wish former CH sher.eats were still here: she once suggested a 30-places-in-one-day food chowdown in Macau! She'd know about the hidden gems than I ever could.

[steve h.]

i'll be back to hong kong in december. maybe you can coax her out of retirement :-)

[FourSeasons]

Hi steve H:

This is off topic here. Go to China Board, type "Macau" on search function there and sher.eats and I have written quite a lot on past threads about Macau scene for last 1-2 years. And I actually have many new places that I have not updated yet on Chowhound.

Don't even doubt Macau as a food destination. Few people knew about this gem, even in Chowhound. The more I go, the more I am surprised by the enormous varieties there, the types of noodles that are not matched anywhere else. And don't underestimate the "hotel/casino stuff"; some of the best stuffs are there too. Like I wrote before...from street food to haute cuisine. Nothing less.

[steve h.]

thank you FourSeasons.

[el jefe]

Thai, Lao and Indonesian food are my favorites. I agree with the comments about Cambodian food and Angkor Wat.

There are several cooking schools in Hanoi, at least two in Luang Prabang, and more than I can count in Chiang Mai. I'm sure there are cooking schools somewhere in Indonesia, but I'm not familiar with them. What I've done in Indonesia occassionally is find a tiny restaurant I like. When I go back a second time I ask if I can go into the kitchen and watch them cook. I've never been turned down.

I live 6-8 months a year in Chiang Mai, Thailand. I'd be happy to go out to lunch with you.

[koknia]

I spent 6 yrs in Cambodia (1994-2000). There are a few good dishes, but their neighbours are much better cooks IMO. My favorite meals in Cambodia were always simply prepared fresh seafood. Little beach shacks cooking up soft shelled crab in Kampot peppercorns. ($1/kg!)
Almost any Asian city has great food, the only two I've been to where I wasn't completely blown away are Yangon and Manila.
Bangkok and Saigon are two of the best, especially for value.

[mikey8811]

Penang definitely for Malaysia - hands down best hawker food anywhere.

Wasn't too taken by Vietnamese food in either Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh - it's good value but overall I find Vietnamese bland and prefer Thai for which Bangkok is great. Cambodian I found even more bland than Vietnamese. Taipei doesn't seem to be on your list but is good value for Japanese food. HK very good if expensive - there's lots on HK in the North Asia section although our pal Sher.eats has left the room. Just my 2 cents.

Am heading for Chiang Mai myself and at a loss as to where to eat... el jefe some help please? (at my post not here - just mentioning because I read here that you spend a lot of time there)

[prasantrin]

You'd go to Taipei for Japanese food? :-0

[scoopG]

Why not? The Japanese occupied Taiwan from 1895 until 1945, many older Taiwanese speak Japanese and there is a large Japanese presence in Taipei today.

[prasantrin]

Because she's starting out in Japan. If she's going to be eating Japanese food in Japan, then anything she has in Taiwan will pale in comparison.

If I were going to Taiwan for a short period, I'd much rather focus on local specialties than eat a lesser version of something I've already tried.

[penang_rojak]

My top choices:
1. Penang (where else?!)
2. Bangkok
3. Ho Chi Minh City

In Japan, I preferred Osaka/Kobe/Kyoto and of course Hokkaido cuisine over Tokyo's.

[felice]

With that amount of time I am guessing you'll be able to visit all those places. I am finishing up a month in Laos, Manila, Malaysia, and Hanoi and the best street food this trip was in Hanoi. I used the savourasia.com streetfood maps/info and hit as many places as I could in the 4 days I was there. I would rank Vietnam high on my list of favorite food countries in addition to Japan and Thailand. Can't comment on China, HK, or Taiwan however.

In terms of cooking classes, I took a great cooking class at Tamarind in Luang Prabang. The class is well organized, you learn several new techniques, and instructor speaks fluent English.
http://www.tamarindlaos.com/pun-pa.html#cook

The other cooking class I thought was excellent was in Penang. Again, I learned a few new techniques, and used a flat mortar/pestle for the first time to make the paste for chicken rendang. The tour of the spice garden was also educational.
http://www.pickles-and-spices.com/coo...

I think my only other piece of advice is to avoid food from other countries in whichever country you are staying. For example, Japanese food in Vietnam, Malaysian food in the Philippines, etc. I was always disappointed.

[yummyrice]

I've also heard good things about Tamarind in Luang Prabang, Laos. That city is also known for it's fried Laotian riverweed snack called Kaipen (similar to Nori) that is dipped in a spicy and sweet chili sauce called Jaew Bong. Tamarind supposedly serves delicious steamed fish wrapped in banana leaves called Mok Pa. They also serve a traditional Lao-style dinner called "Pun Pa", which is a communal dining experience that requires you to use your hands to form your own lettuce wraps topped with chunks of grilled fish, fresh herbs, and a delicious dipping sauce.

[foodfirst]

My preference is street food/hawker food, and after 13 years street eating in Asia I'd have to say: Penang, Saigon, Taipei. You really should consider Taipei. An absolutely phenomenal food scene.

[trvlcrzy]

Hong Kong, Bangkok, Singapore, Kyoto.

[Sam Fujisaka]

Following your listing of countries: Osaka, Kyoto, Beijing, Hainan Island, Hong Kong, Seoul, Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Saigon, Canh Thu, Hanoi, Vientiane, Savannakhet, and the length of Java.

[steve h.]

java?
hokey smokes, bullwinkle!
what an insanely interesting call. some details would be appreciated.

[Sam Fujisaka]

The food changes dramatically as one goes from one end of the island of Java to the other. Although by that logic, one should first traverse the length of Vietnam and make a great circle within China.

[steve h.]

logic is seriously overrated.

[mediakzar]

We're just back from a trip to Laos and Bangkok. Had a very nice dinner at Tamarind in Luang Prabang (mentioned earlier in the thread) and friends we were traveing with couldn't stop raving about the cooking class they took from them. Have just posted in another thread about several really good meals in Vientiane. But the food in Bangkok was consistently terrific; both the street food and restaurants. Haven't worked up a report on BKK yet but will post something soon.

A couple years ago we took a very nice cooking class at a school affiliated with the Red Bridge Restaurant in Hoi An, Vietnam that was a well spent day.

[anthonyrza]

1) Penang, Malaysia. Malay+Chinese+Indian to die for.
2) Ho Chi Minh City. Insane variety if you know what to look for. Seafood aplenty
3) Ubud (or all of Bali). Babi guling. Sate ayam. Pepes. Amazing as well.

globaleats.blogspot.com

[Sam Fujisaka]

Even Kuta Beach in Bali? I have to admit that coming and going from long work trips to East Timor, I would have burgers and cold Fosters at one of the Oz bars in Kuta Beach. The Babi and the artwork (some oils if you look really hard and carefully) are worth the (rented motorycycle) trip out to Ubud, however.

[anthonyrza]

I didn't spend much time in Kuta, more like Mexico spring break for Aussies- not that I wouldn't have enjoyed that 5 years ago sans GF. I didn't rate Ho Chi Minh City by what kind of pizza or dosa it can produce so when I say all of Bali I'm speaking of all the Balinese/Indo food throughout the isle - not enchiladas on Poppies II. Ubud is worth the trip for sure, still dreaming about some of those flavors..

[Sam Fujisaka]

I've worked on Bali quite a bit and eaten "normal" food. I admit to Kuta Beach like Hounds admit to eating at McDonalds. But after month long trips a few years back to East Timor, one can crave spring break food.

I only eat on the street and in small places my colleages take me in Saigon - save the State banquet now and then..

[anthonyrza]

For sure..I had myself a burrito in Kuta. I'll admit I enjoyed that carefully crafted explosion of cheese and salsa. Yeah, u know what ur doin in Saigon..the best food is almost never found in air-con restaurants.

[Sam Fujisaka]

I've worked in Vietnam since shortly after the war when there was no air con in the country. But great food everywhere - albeit not that many restaurants. Lot's of eating in remote, rural villages in rice- and, later, cassava growing areas.

[guanubian]

I guess this may be too late, but I've been to Phnom Penh, Vientiane, Saigon, Chiang Mai and Bangkok, with a similar food focus. Of those, for fantastic food, especially street food, you must go to Saigon and Bangkok, in that order of preference -- by which I was surprised, as authentic Vietnamese food is not as well represented in the eastern US as Thai (which is to say the former isn't at all, whereas the latter can be found if you are in the right place, such as Queens, NY, and know what you're looking for).

Let me reiterate: Saigon is freaking incredible for food tourism. One of the best meals of my life was Cua Rang Me (tamarind-stewed crab), dried squid and curried snails with gallons of cheap beer at a plastic-chair sidewalk affair among many in a congested area. That kind of experience is ubiquitous.

Bangkok is great too, but it's a pain in the ass for lone Western tourists in a way that Saigon, which has its annoyances, only approaches. With that said, go there and visit Soi Convent, and any of the major markets, such as Chatuchak and Aw Taw Kaw (aka Or Tor Kor).

I haven't been to them, but I've heard very good things about Penang, KL, Singapore City and Taipei.

Laos (Vientiane, in my experience) is wonderful and worth visiting, although it's a lot smaller and more sedate. The food is fantastic -- a spicier and fishier iteration of "Thai food", as Westerners know it, that is cognate with what Thais call "Esan" cuisine. I've also heard good things about Luang Prabang and Savannakhet.

Cambodia is less worth visiting for the food. It is, however, exceptionally worth visiting from just about every other travel perspective. Between the gravitas of post-genocide Phnom Penh and the splendor of Angkor Wat, your perspective will expand in that once-in-a-lifetime way great travel affords you. The key dishes to try in Phnom Penh are amok, the Cambodian signature (although they do also make it in Thailand), which is a mild but flavorful fish-curry mousse served in a banana leaf, and prahok, an at-least-olfactorily ever-present superfermented fish paste you can eat with Cambodian crudites (try the mini-eggplants). I've heard that pepper crab in Kampot is exquisite.

A note about Cambodian cuisine: like Filipino food, I'm pretty sure Cambodian dishes are meant to be eaten in aggregate, rather than a la carte, as with single Thai and Vietnamese dishes that run whole gamuts of flavor. Because foreigners order one or two dishes and just tuck in, the experience can seem underwhelming. Try to sample Cambodian food with a local or a knowledgeable tourist; having "the manual", if you will, should enhance the experience.

The sad thing about Phnom Penh is, while it is beautiful and mostly safe, its squalidness is widespread and profound enough to limit the presentational aspect of most of the cuisine, as well as frankly to diminish your appetite. Visit one of the open-air wet markets a couple of hours after midday to see what I mean (Psar Chas is a good example). The smell of Phnom Penh is like nothing I've ever encountered -- a pure distillation of the Third World. You will marvel at Cambodian "country cuisine", however: large assortments of fried arthropods, snakes and tree birds on still but vibrant platters.