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Zao report

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A couple of friends and I hit Zao for dim sum last Sunday. The resto's in one of those strip mall-like buildings across Boulevard L'Acadie from the Marché Central. It shares the second floor with Sharky's resto-bar cum pool hall cum video lottery parlour, which was deserted at midday. The room is not as spacious or high-ceilinged as some of the larger dim sum palaces, more akin to the original Tong Por on La Gauchetière than Kam Fung, New Jing Hua or the new Tong Por in Cartierville. Decor was scruffy but clean enough (sorry but I didn't check the restrooms). Flat-screen televisions around the room were tuned to Radio Canada, providing close-captioned visuals (no sound, thank dog) of some Catholic mass.

The place was busy, filled to near capacity, but even at noon on Sunday there wasn't a lineup. Looking around, we realized we were among the very few non-Chinese. Surprisingly, a Caucasian guy wearing an apron walked by, went into the kitchen and didn't come back out (a blow for diversity? or maybe Zao and Sharky's share a kitchen?). Another surprise: most of the staff spoke fluent English and many of the servers actually smiled. Unheard of!

What'd we eat? (Didn't take notes, so this is from memory. Chinese names are approximate; feel free to amplify/correct.)

- Wide rice noodle rolled around shrimp (har cheng fun): The noodle was passable but far from transcendental. The shrimp were great, tasting of the sea and perfectly al dente, even snappy.

- Shrimp dumplings (har gau): Wrappers lacked delicacy and were stuck together, creating a mess when we tried to separate them. The fillings were a little firmer than I like but quite tasty. The same comments apply to a similar dumpling filled with scallops and shrimp.

- Open-topped pork, chive and dried shrimp dumplings (siu mai): Thick wrappers, savoury filling, just-firm-enough texture.

- Shrimp-stuffed crab claws (yeung hai kim): Very good. Expertly breaded and fried, let down only by the slightly bland shrimp paste. Served with a goopy sweet sauce; better with the chile-Chinese mustard sauce that was placed on the table even before we began ordering.

- Baked bun filled with BBQ pork (cha siu baau): Fabulous flaky pastry, insipid filling.

- "Footballs," i.e. fried glutinous rice flour dumplings stuffed with pork and vegetables (haam sui gok): First-rate in every respect.

- Fried squid (yau yu sou): A little greasy though the batter tasted great. Squid was large, chewy, flavourful. Served with Worcestershire sauce for dipping.

- Chive dumpling/pancakes: A disk of tasty filling (that also included a healthy dose of green onions) sandwiched between circles of dumpling wrapper and fried. Considerably less refined the Tong Por Cartierville version but enjoyable nonetheless.

- Steamed spareribs with black beans: Good 'n' porky. BBs subtle, like a spice.

- Eggplant stuffed with shrimp paste: Looked good. Had good texture. But even the accompanying hoisin-like sauce couldn't redeem their intrinsic blandness. Unusually, the waiter spooned the sauce onto the dish before serving.

- Warm tofu with ginger syrup (dou fu fa): Lovely slips of silky tofu in a sweet syrup that was richer and browner than usual and had a flavour reminiscent of chewy ginger candy. One of the best versions of this that I've come across.

- Tea: Probably oolong. Higher quality than usual. Served in a large, virtually dripless pot.

If memory serves, we paid a dollar or two over $15 a person, tip included.

As one member of our party pointed out, some of the more disappointing aspects of the meal (the lacklustre wrappers, the greasy squid, etc.) may well have been due to our late arrival (only two or three parties showed up after we did). While none of us would place Zao at the front of the local dim sum pack, it was good enough for us to plan a return at an earlier hour.

Zao
9394 L'Acadie
514 387-7665

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  1. We had tried it a few times and it is too bad the wrappings have not improved or the variety of dishes - they were usually wheeling around the same things around and around seemingly to get rid of them. We gave it a chance but ...meh.

    1. The wrappers on the dumplings are very key. It is a shame, as the fillings are really delicious. But the texture and aesthetics of the dumpling skin really make or break a dim sum place.

      Still, the dou fu fa was really lovely. It is a very satisfying way to end a meal.

      Chilipepper's comment is a bit concerning. It implies that things have not improved, suggesting that what you see is what you get. I had been hoping that perhaps our experience was one of those off days, and that it could be better. Too bad. There were some very nice touches that made you feel there was potential. For example, the excellent football (haam sui gok).

      Zao isn't destination dining, but if I'm up in the area, and I feel like dim sum, I would go back. You get hungry big box shopping....

      1 Reply
      1. re: moh

        You, dear moh, get hungry just thinking about big box shopping...

        I can see how one might develop a meh reaction after a few visits, especially if the wrapper issues weren't a function of our hour of arrival. And, while there were plenty of things we didn't try (fried taro dumplings, sesame buns, fried smelts, baby octopi and, IIRC, tripe, for example), there's no denying the section was more limited than at the larger palaces and devoid of the surprise dishes that always seem to turn up at New Jing Hua (still dreaming of that sliced pig trotter in aspic with jellyfish salad after all these years). Even so, some of the dishes were excellent and most of the ones that weren't had at least some redeeming qualities. Add to that the central location (close to Amal Bohsali, Adonis, B Sweet, etc.), the lack of a lineup, the quick service and -- I still can't get over it -- the friendly staff able not only to understand questions but to provide coherent answers. So, yeah, I'd go back, too.

      2. Thanks for the report. I had been wondering about that place for a while. I think I saw something outisde the place about a noodle bar. If they do have a noodle bar, can you tell me anything about it?

        1 Reply
        1. re: SnackHappy

          Don't recall a noodle bar. And didn't check out their regular menu. Sorry.

          One possibly relevant data point: the stacks of community newspapers at the entrance were Vietnamese.

        2. Didn't somebody mention here that Zao is being run by the ex-Le President people? Chef or owners I can't recall.

          1 Reply
          1. re: hungryann

            Yep. Chefs. But if so, they've lost their ability to perform wrapper magic.

            http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/5673...

          2. Zao restaurant seems to have now be re-named Maison Foo Lam restaurant. Same owners or new owners, new chefs, same menu or not? Anyone know the details?

            1 Reply
            1. re: BLM

              Seems to be the same staff at any rate. Still have the capelin and much of the same menu as earlier, including the same tough going on the dumplings.

            2. I've been to this restaurant several times for dinner. I find the food much more refined than the offerings at Fu Kam Wah, which can be heavy and greasy. The food was well cooked, the dishes were savoury and well seasoned. Even my little 10 yr old niece remarked that the fried rice was much better tha at FKW, where we'd eaton the night before. I asked for a dish not on the menu, of steamed clams on a bed of vermicelli. They forgot the vermicelli, but the soupy clams were delicious.

              1 Reply
              1. re: Montreal_eater

                Eaten there recently since the name change(& maybe other changes)?

              2. Went to Maison Foo Lam today for dim sum. It was very delicious. Got there just before 12 noon and everything was hot out of the kitchen. There were only about 7 tables occupied but the lunch crowd hadn't shown up. By 12:30, only 3 more tables showed up. There were 2 tables of caucasians and both of them had ordered the combo meals while the Asians were having dim sum.

                The har cheung fun had a more gelatinous texture, but I thought it was a nice change from the usual ones that were thinner and finer as found in Chinatown. The shrimp in them were large and tasty and the server cut between the shrimp for the presentation.

                The sui mei was quite plump.. a bit plumper than I'm used to in Chinatown but smaller than the golf balled size ones from Jade Garden take-out. The texture was firm and not quite as soft, I had the impression the filling was made from a leaner meat mixture. It tasted very good. The wrapper was thin this time unlike Carwell's. Perhaps the thick wrapper just an anomaly for that time Carswell was there.

                The steamed baby cuttlefish was tender and tasty. Not at all chewy and steaming hot.

                The shrimp-scallop boat dumplings were good but were more shrimp than scallop, but still very good.

                The peanut dumpling was very nice, but lately I've noticed in Montreal, peanuts have become the dominent ingredient in these dumplings. I seem to remember peanut dumplings having a higher percentage of minced pork a few years back.

                We had another shrimp-pork dumpling but I've forgotten which one it was. It may have been a shrimp-pork-chive one.

                By this point the two of us couldn't eat anymore and had to forgo ordering the other ones that came by on the cart.

                I and my friend would both go back to this restaurant for dim sum. She's intending to return with her husband and son next weekend. I think I may have to try a meal here just to see if the food matches up to when the owners owned the President in Cartierville before it became the Tong Por North.

                1. Probably going to be in the area tomorrow afternoon (and that usually means that after about an hour at Reno Depot I will need some cheering up in the form of food).

                  Any idea whether they serve dim sum during the week, and if so, until what time? Or which of their other menu items would be recommended?