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EMP's are pretty good, nice and warm and great flavor. I also like the ones you get t Ouest occasionally. Always hot from the oven and with great cheesy, creamy interiors. The ones at Ouest drove me to learn how to make them, and now I prepare them all the time, using a modified French Laundry recipe.
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I haven't had the gougeres at Bouley. But my vote would be for Per Se and EMP. I don't think you can order them -- they just come with your dinner. I love them because they serve it warm, and it's still creamy inside. That's the reason why Artisanal's gougeres never did anything for me. It's pretty dry and I think they cook it for a longer time than Per Se and EMP.
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