Cape Town: My Current Favourites
- Gooseberry Aug 12, 2009 10:44 AM
I feel really bad as a Capetonian that there's rarely responses to Cape Town based questions on this board, so here are my current favourites. Please note this is based on where I, as a local, choose to eat, which is rarely the expensive nouvelle cuisine places in the Winelands or the centre of town, which I frankly find all sort of the same and boring.
A seaside institution. Still has great atmosphere, view of the fishing boats in Kalkbay Harbour, and I think a really fresh menu, which changes daily. They get the fish straight off the boats. No reservations, so come early or wait in line. Otherwise you could try Live Bait on the harbour wall, or Kalkies, also on the harbour, for fried fish and chips like the locals enjoy.
The cheapest sit-down Indian food in Cape Town. Very popular with Muslim families from the Bo-Kaap, or after Mosque. Darling Street, opposite the post office. There's no sign, just an open archway. No frills, but cheerful atmosphere. Grab a falooda (Cape Malay pink milkshake) and choose from curry of the day, dosas, tandoor, etc. Potato pakoras rock. Mainly Indian, with a little bit of confused (don't get the chinese food or shwarma!) and Malay thrown in for good measure.
Affected nightclubby atmosphere, but the best Chinese food in Cape Town, bar none.
Bar salon on Bree Street. Trendy, fun decor and umbrellas outside on the square. Menu is very meat-centric (sausage, anyone?) but a good place to get a traditional boerewors roll and a beer.
A strictly daytime kiosk overlooking the street with benches for those so inclined, the bakery attached to the restaurant of the same name makes seriously good bread, and seriously good sandwiches. Grab some on the way to Campsbay or Clifton or the Table Mountain cable car for a picnic. Bloem Street, off Long.
Get yr hotel to organise transport to this one, a mainly open air braai joint in the townships. very good meat, township vibe, and everyone's friendly. Leave the vegetarians at home.
BISCUIT MILL NEIGHBOUR GOODS MARKET
Saturdays, 9-2pm. Food market. Can get quite crowded, but has the greatest concentration of seriously good food in one area in all of Cape Town. People say it's expensive and precious, and it is that, but on a food level, it offers a wonderful selection of local and international foods, and lots of new and quirky food ideas. There's a sister design and clothing market next door, for those inclined to see some local design (Heartworks store in the complex also offers great locallymade gifts and mementos).
Massimo's Pizza Club (pizzaclub.co.za)
Only open Wednesday through Saturday nights, on the main road into Hout Bay, offers the best pizzas in Cape Town with unique concept - all the pizzas are passed around and shared by all diners.
If you're going to the Winelands (and please don't - it's so full of tourists during high season that I avoid it!), French Connection does genuinely good, simple food (so if you're looking for gastrique this and garnished that, you'll be disappointed) on the Franschhoek main drag. My parents were at Solms Delta yesterday, and said lunch was unaffected and charming (and there's a great slavery and apartheid mini-museum there, for history buffs). Reubens has great service and the food's good. Le Quartier's tasting menu is legendary, but it takes about four hours and is a bit fiddly (I've done it once, enjoyed it, but prob wouldn't do it again). Bread and Wine at Moreson is probably my favourite, with food that's sophisticated and simple, for all tastes (you don't need a reservation to sit at the charcuterie bar in the deli and have things like bacon-and-butter sandwiches, which is as good as it sounds).
re: Brandy Taylor
Brandy, I did muse on whether to add Bukhara to the list. It is certainly a superb restaurant, or was when I was last there about five years ago. The truth is, it's just too expensive. I know that price is a subjective thing, but when I think that I can get take outs from Bibi's Indian Kitchen in Wynberg (round the corner from me) for half the price, it makes it hard for me to justify bukhara. Is Bibi's as good as Bukhara? Difficult question. I'd say Bibi's is to homey Indian what Bukhara's is to restaurant fine dining.
I justify the cost of Haiku (owned by the same group as Bukhara), and the downright irritating decor and lighting, because there is no Bibi's equivalent in Cape Town's Chinese food firmament, in my opinion (most CT chinese food is greasy and a subtle as a chopstick in your eye).
Not a terribly convincing argument, but there you have it.
We check this board periodically to vicariously relive our visit to Cape Town last year, and I wish we had had this list - it appears to list the sort of down-to-earth places we gravitate to. I had printed out lots of ideas for high end places that we didn't get even close to; after each full and wonderful day of exploring, we returned to eat in the Observatory suburb, where our son was living while he studied at UCT. Every evening we met him at Obz Cafe, then, after a drink,we either ate there or elsewhere. So for you academics out there who may be on a budget, the meals we had in this part of town were very reasonable in price, ranged from ok to very good, and vibe was diverse, artsy, and studenty. The highlight was our meal at Cafe Ganesh.
I'm glad you had a great time.
I find it useful to read people's destination restaurants on this board: it reminds me that when I go to other countries' boards and ask for recommendations, to ask specifically for down to earth, simple places. Because if I was a visitor to Cape Town and only went to the high end places, it wouldn't be an accurate experience, or in my opinion as delicious an experience as it could be.
Obs has a great little cafe, on the corner of lower main road and Trill Rds, called something like Mango Ginger. Simple daily menu of sandwiches and soups. And a coffee milkshake which is truly marvellous. So I certainly won't turn my nose up at Obs!
I hope you come back for more down to earth food!
Hi, I'm also a Capetonian and would like to add a couple of restaurants that I really dig to Gooseberry's list:
Caveau in Newlands is in my opinion the most consistent restaurant without exorbitant prices. They have a small menu that changes daily. They focus on tapas which I actually tend to avoid since it comes out slowly. I've eaten there around 20 times and have always been impressed by the mains, both fish and meat. The wine list is comprehensive and is great if you're a foreigner since many of the wines can be ordered by the glass. The service is average, but its in a lovely environment (old mill next to a canal) and the food rocks!
Olympia is a must - but a warning to tourists: its quite loud and you often have to wait for a table. Very much a local hangout and lots of fun.
A great new Italian lunch place is Mezzeluna on Long street. The owner is from Roma and the food is cheap, simple Italian with great ingredients - refreshing since I would not recommend the majority of the Cape Town "Italian" restaurants.
For a splurge, I like Myoga at the Vineyard hotel - the prawn starter is probably the best prawn dish I've ever had. The sommelier is also excellent - please take his advice.
Probably the best restaurant at the upper-end of the price range is Bizerca in the CBD. Its in a stark, industrial space which I don't like, but the food is very put together with a great deal of talent.
I would recommend checking out http://www.rossouwsrestaurants.com/ for an uptodate blog by one of our better local restaurant critics.
Oh yes, and for the best cup of coffee in Cape Town check out Origin in Hudson Street, Greenpoint.