Turin, Italy in October 2009 - suggestions PLEASE
We spent two nights in Turin in April. Had two very good dinners at Antiche Sera and at Sotto Le Mole.
A bit about Sotto Le Mole; I booked by e-mail about a week in advance of our visit.
In deference to its location across the street from the museum, film posters and memorabilia, as well as vintage liquor ads, adorn the walls of the handsome dining room, crowned by soaring brick arches. The menu hews closely to Piemontese tradition, with a few modern twists.
One clue to the quality of the meal was the basket of mini-grissini (Torinese bread sticks, a fixture at local tables and one we found to be often, but not always, a reliable indicator of the quality of the meal to come) and the stupendous bread dusted with finely chopped Taggiasca olives from Liguria.
I began (the menu has changed slightly since our visit) with
a terrine of broccoli and “pumpkin” sauced with Raschera, a raw cow’s milk mountain cheese. Excellent!
My partner opted for the soup of peas and favas, reflective of the season, which was equally lovely. (Why do my own soups pale by comparison to those we enjoy in Italy?)
We skipped the secondi in favor of main courses of the quintessential local pasta—agnolotti del Plin, or tiny ravioli (“Plin” is dialect for “pinched”) stuffed here with rabbit and herbs.
For dessert, another quintessential Piemontese dish—the rich and delicious Giandujot, which vaguely resembles a chocolate pudding and is better in the mouth than described on the page!
I should note, for those hankering for fish, that our dining neighbors ordered the steamed merluzzo, or cod, which they proclaimed to be stellar.
We drank a 2006 Barbera from Fontanafredda (I became a Barbera fan on this trip!). With water and service, the total for two of us was 70 Euro. Recommended.