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Jul 30, 2009 08:37 PM

Basic dishes as the most challenging: recipes [from Boston]

Thanks for the rec opinionatedchef. I'll have to try Picco this weekend. I looked up the recipe for the chocolate chip cookies after you mentioned it:

I'm convinced that the basics are the most challenging test for chefs. There's no hiding behind luxurious filet mignon or lobster. The ingredients are very simple so the challenge is to avoid being plain and boring. Think of mashed potatoes -- I've eaten them everywhere in Boston, and the only version that stood out enough to be ordered again (and many times more) was at the Franklin Cafe.

When the dish is basic, like chocolate chip cookies or mashed potatoes, the temptation is to take shortcuts. But it's patience and painstaking technique -- soaking the dough in the eggs for at least 36 hours for cookies, using an ultra-fine sieve for Joel Robuchon's pommes purée (1) -- that distinguish the best versions.

(1) Gordon Ramsay on making Robuchon's pommes purée:

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  1. off topic, but you mentioned it: the single best mash pota recipe, for me, is Julia Child's garlic ma. pota in the Victory garden cookbook. i do up a batch of the butter-poached garlic and freeze it for faster ma .pota. down the line.
    So glad you liked picco. His chile is exc. as well! Now i'll have to pick up some of those meatballs when i'm next in town!