Crazy upscale Chinese food in PDX or SEA?

[fanghsing]

I just finished reading "The Last Chinese Chef" and am really curious (and craving) about what's out there for upscale Chinese. Any suggestions? My father is Chinese and my mother is Taiwanese, so I grew up with homestyle Chinese cooking. I spent most of high school waiting tables at American-Chinese restaurants (oh, how I have a soft spot for moo goo gai pan and egg rolls!). My only experience with "fancy" Chinese food is banquets in Beijing and Shanghai back when I wasn't much of a foodie. What do y'all think? This board has the most enthusiastic, knowledgeable and diverse members, so I know I'll be in good hands! Thanks!

P.S. And I'm really adventurous-- I'll try anything. Unfortunately, I fall flat when it comes to Sichuan because I don't have the cojones for really spicy food, much to my dad's chagrin. He believes food is best when he can feel his hair growing!

[PAO]

You're not going to like this, but I say, Go to Vancouver and check out Kirin downtown. . . . Have never been for dinner, but their dim sum is great. Waiters in black suits with crisp white shirts . . . . Chinese food in Seattle is,in general, a great disappointment . . . .

[Chandavkl]

I'll second Vancouver (well, actually Richmond B.C.) . Far better than anything in Seattle or Portland, or for that matter, Los Angeles, San Francisco or New York.

[Jenny15X]

I'm not sure how fancy you are talking about, but you might want to try Wong's King in southest portland (http://www.wongsking.com/). My boyfriend is Chinese, and we go out to dinners with his extended family quite often - this is probably the fanciest place we go to and one of his parent's favorites (his po also like's Golden Horse in China town).

Wong's King is really popular for dim sum. It's received quite a few honors, I can't remember exactly what for, but I remember there being a really big buzz about this when they opened it up. Sadly, I can't speak for the food quality as I struggle with authentic Chinese food. Hope this helps!

[goodbyeohio]

I agree. And I definitely get the feeling when I'm there that the Chinese guests treat a visit here as an upscale meal out. Don't expect everyone to be in suits or the ambiance to be ultra-modern, but it should not disappoint. You will definitely have the opportunity to try some real traditional preparations on things like tripe.

[sambamaster]

"Upscale" Chinese is not really the term you want to use...what you are looking for, as described in that book, is, by and large, banquet food, and not something you'll likely find on a day to day basis on any menu in PDX or Seattle. Most of the chefs in typical places in these parts are not trained in that type of cooking which is mostly found in grand hotels in China, from what I can deduce...those banquets you attended in Beijing and Shanghai were probably great examples of what you are looking for.

That said, I will assume you are in Portland, and if so, Mandarin House downtown on Ankeny and 2nd (sort of hidden along that alley-like part of Ankeny). The guy there seems to be capable of some higher-end sorts of food, and in fact, has the much discussed (in your novel) dish called Dongpo Pork, a long simmered pork shoulder, but you need to give him advance notice because it takes quite some time to prepare...I think he wants 24-hour notice. He's got a picture of it on the wall of the stairway leading to the dining room. I'd suggest going to the place, discussing a menu for a group (4 or more people), and planning a small banquet. His English sucks, so if you speak Mandarin, you will have an easier time...or take someone with you....take the names of dishes you found interesting and I'll bet he can whip 'em up with advance notice, or suggest similar dishes. He seems to be a well-trained chef, supposedly makes his own hand pulled noodles (though I have yet to have any that I would swear are hand made) and is one of the most "authentic" Chinese places in town...though his interpretations of Sichuan dishes (a province he's admitted to me he's never been to) is a bit shaky...his dan dan noodles and not very good. Oh, and his Shanghai soup dumplings are also terrible versions...dry, dry, dry. But don't let those negative reviews deter you, overall, the "authentic" stuff can be pretty good. Unfortunately, the best dishes remain hidden on his Chinese-only menu pages and his ability to translate them into English is hopeless. Too bad. So, go by, check it out...take a translator if you need one, and plot your strategy. Try the Dongpo and let us know how it is...it's not cheap, maybe $30 or so, but it will feed lots of people.

White shirts and black suits do not necessarily translate into what you want. Wong's King is, I believe, "Cantonese", but it seems like they might be able to do some of the things you want, though they will not be on the menu. They don't do my preferred styles of cooking, so I don't go there. Lucky Strike on Powell around 122nd does an OK job with a few Sichuan dishes, but the service is terrible, they are always out of certain dishes, often out of others...but the kids who run it mean well, but they insist on using Chinese celery when they should be using leeks or baby bok choy (depending on the dish), and I'm convinced they do so because it's cheap filler. It just doesn't belong in their otherwise tasty cumin beef, a dish I've had in other Sichuan places from coast to coast and never had celery in it (nor do any recipes I've found). One of the owners even admitted to me that the pickled long bean dish on the menu is never available because the long beans are too expensive!!!!!!!!!!! Not sure why they have it on the menu, or why they don't just raise the price!!!! Too bad because it is a great dish, and easy to make...so I make it at home. Anyway, they are not exactly what you are looking for regarding the banquet dishes, but they are a good alternative to the other, mostly crappy, Chinese in Portland. Shenzhen on NE 82nd also does some very good stuff, and they may have one chef who might be able to do what you want; go in and talk to them.

I don't know about Seattle....Bamboo Garden does some decent Sichuan, but I've only been there once.... I'm sure Seattle has some great places too...

So, yer gonna have to do the work on your mission, but I think you can accomplish it, but you ain't gonna walk in anywhere and find those complex banquet dishes on the ready-to-eat rack..... please let us know what you find!!!

[fanghsing]

Fabulous advice! I will check it out this week and see what I can manage. I do speak Mandarin, but my vocabulary is limited to family conversations, etc. No matter what happens, this sounds like it will be a fun adventure! Thanks.

[sambamaster]

Maybe you can help the guy at Mandarin House translate those hidden goodies. I had a friend in Texas who promised to translate them, I faxed him the menu, but he disappeared...to bad, 'cause he's a great chef and could make those dishes you want. In any case, the best stuff at Mandarin House remains largely hidden. Maybe someone else in your family could help with translation? The problem is, translating the poetic Chinese names, like Ant's Climb a Tree, into meaningful English explanations, you have to know what the dish is, and not just know what the literal translation is. Another example: Dongpo Pork!!! Totally meaningless to the average american...or Strange Flavor Chicken, etc etc etc...Flower Tofu is another. Good luck....