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Jul 29, 2009 07:23 PM

Sevilla Tapas Question

I have a kind of general question about tapas in Sevilla. I've been reading the board a lot and put together a list of places we'd like to try during our 3 nights in Sevilla (Enrique Becerra, Las Columnas, La Enslava, Bar Europa, Becerrita, Bar Las Teresas, El Rinconcillo, and Bar Yebra). It's my virgin understanding of Spain that we could go to 2 or 3 of these establishments a night - getting a few tapas at each and moving along? I guess I'm just looking for clarification that my plan is indeed kosher and I don't need to cut the list =) Thank you!

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  1. Sevilla is probably the best city in Spain for tapas. Your understanding is correct that one can go to 2 or 3 or more places a night-getting a few tapas at each and move along. The places on your list are all excellent (have not been to Las Columnas). The problem is that these places are scattered wide apart from each other, making hopping from one another a very long walks. For example: the three closest to each other are probably Enrique Becerra, Bar Las Teresas and Bar Europa, each about a 20 minute walk from each other, forming a triangle. Seville is a medium size city and great for strolling but places can be far apart. I suggest that for each night, pick one from your list and then hit tapas places around that area. The most centrally located are: Enrique Beccara in Arenal (nearby is the excellent Bodega San Jose on c/Adriano and many others), Bar Europa near the lively pedestrian c/Serpes and Plaza Alfalfa which has many good places (Bar Gran Tino, La Bodega and La Trastienda are pretty good); Bar Las Teresas is in Santa Cruz where tapas places are more problematic (couple of good ones are Bar Modesto and Bodega Santa Cruz). I really love Enslava but is is further out in Alameda de Hercules, a fun night clubbing area. It is also very popular and gets extremely (for some uncomfortably) crowded. Becerrita is also excellent but also further away from the center. Strolling in Sevilla during the summer evening is terrific, therefore, they are walkable from the center if you enjoy long walks. Of course, it all depends on where you are staying. Hope this is helpful.

    3 Replies
    1. re: PBSF

      Thanks for putting the time into such a detailed reply. I really like your suggestion of doing it by neighborhoods - thanks in particular for giving me some tips on decent choices near by my top picks. I think I'll take your suggestion and lump them like this:

      Dinner groupings:

      Day 1: Enrique Becerra and Las Columnas (6 min walk)

      Day 2: Las Teresas, Bodega Santa Cruz, Bar Modesto

      Day 3: Bar Europa + whichever looks best of your recommendations (Bar Gran Tino, La Bodega and La Trastienda)


      Day 1: La Eslava

      Day 2: Bar Yebra

      Day 3: El Rinconcillo

      With this, I'm assuming tapas are in the afternoon too. (are lunch tapas common?) We don't really have anything planned for Sevilla, so I think we'd be content to just wander around trying to find the best food. We are staying at the Oasis Backpacker's Hostal which helps out a bit as it's a bit north of the most touristy stuff. Thank you so much for your help!

      1. re: Jenny15X

        Tapas are just as popular for lunch as dinner. Sevilla has some wonderful sights worth visiting, all listed in most guide books. But what really makes it so special is that one can really feel the air of Andalucia and all it's images. The different neighborhoods around the centro are all great for strolling.

      2. re: PBSF

        I believe that the Las Columnas and Bodega Santa Cruz which you are referring to are one and the same. Agreed about organizing by locale. Las Columnas (Bodega Santa Cruz) is a very short walk from Las Teresas, which itself is a very short walk to La Cava del Europa (Same owners and idea as Bar Europa i believe and also VERY good). Few spaces down from La Cava is La Fritadura (sp) which has the most delicious fried items(mostly seafood but also croquettas and alitos de pollo) selling by weight. Becerrita is about a 10-12 min walk from La Cava, and Bar Yebra is another 10-12 mins or so from there. IMO Bar Yebra deserves it owns meal, and they have everything at lunch that they would at dinner, so good choice there. Bar modesto I found to be slightly overrated, but still good. The coquinas were good there, but the place is a little expensive and not that great IMO, although their outside seating there is nice.

        In a different neighborhood, Bar Eslava we enjoyed alot, and that was right around the corner from Bar Alcoy 10 which we also really liked. Nearby there, on the way back towards el Catedral, was a more traditional tapas spot that was always busy and really good, although the name escapes me unfortunately.

        Another place that we thoroughly enjoyed but which I did not see on your list was Las Coloniales, which had a couple of locations, one right near el catedral and the other near the plaza alameda hercules.

        Enjoy, I wish i was you!

      3. As a VERY general question, may I ask you about how many items we should order per person to make a good full meal of tapas?

        7 Replies
        1. re: blessed02

          It is hard to give a number that will be enough per person. It depends on how much an individual eats, what one orders, on the place itself. For example, the plates at Bar Europa tends to be large and also more expensive, therefore, two or three should be enough per person. For Bar Las Teresas, the food is simpler, smaller servings and cheaper per items, therefore, might need four or five. Enrique Becerra has small salads, fried mussels by the piece and a small casserole of meatballs which is rich, therefore, depends on what one orders. Also certain items come in racions, which are half portions (about double of a tapa). Tapas places are very informal, nobody orders everything at once; order one or two per person to start, share and enjoy, then order more if you like the place or move on. Just one comment, the popular ones can get very crowded, therefore, frequently it is stand up or josting for a stool or chair. But everyone is very polite including the staff.

          1. re: PBSF

            I do tapas tours in Seville which usually include visiting three different bars and having two tapas and one drink at each place. To be honest, many people have trouble finishing off six whole tapas, even with walking in between and taking our time, but it's still nice for them to get to sample a good variety of foods. I'd say if you are REALLY hungry you could probably manage 5-6 tapas, but 3-4 are usually fine for a nice light meal.

            1. re: azahar.sevilla

              And you have a wonderful website which has been so helpful to me since we are planning a short trip to Seville. I must drop in at least once a week to look at the pictures and read your reviews. Thanks so much for sharing.

              For other Chowhounds, here is the fantastic website from azahar.sevilla.


              1. re: Aleta

                Thanks, Aleta. I'm really glad you enjoy the website. And feel free to send me an email if you have any questions you'd like to ask about your upcoming trip to Sevilla.

                1. re: azahar.sevilla

                  Thanks Azahar. We're only going to be there for 2 nights (and one evening, we have dinner scheduled at La Alqueria). Perhaps we can meet you for a drink. I have some information that might be useful to you. I'll email you.

                  1. re: Aleta

                    Love the idea of meeting for a drink. Will confirm by email. Thanks!

                    1. re: azahar.sevilla

                      Hi Jenny,

                      I'm jumping on this late but we just spent 3 nights in Sevilla and I really have to put a vote in for bodeguita casablanca which we visited twice for lunch and thought it was outstanding both times. We were disappointed at enrique becerra, even faithfully following a list of dishes to order listed on chowhound (3 of them were not on the menu) and las teresas was ok, not excellent. Casablanca was not cheap but amazingly good - our favourite tapas restaurant on our 3 week drive through spain. We had the Conquitas (spelling may be off!) - little clams that were delicious in olive oil and citrus, paella, argentinian beef that wasn't on the menu but a spanish friend helped us out - if you can get this it's beautiful, and then shared a gorgeous chocolate tart. Honestly do go - it is really fantastic food.

                      In terms of quantities - we found if we asked for half raciones or stuck to tapas portions we were good for 3 or 4 plates. Enjoy!