Elevating Latin Cuisine – The Sophisticated, Stylish Dishes of Rivera Restaurant (and Home of Fantastic, Fresh Cocktails) [Review] w/ Pics!
(Formatted with All Pictures here:
During my first visit to Rivera Restaurant, I found myself wondering why it took me so long to pay this restaurant a visit. Perhaps it was the feeling of inundation at yet another new, stylish eatery opening up in Downtown L.A. (part of a boom of restaurants opening all within the last year or so). Or maybe it was the early pictures and glimpses of the menu that seemed like it was the Mexican equivalent of P.F. Chang's, focusing more on drawing in the mainstream. And it didn't help that there was another brand-new, chic Latin cuisine restaurant (Casa) opening up around the same time, in the same area.
But after hearing many good reviews about Rivera from mollyomormon and many others, I decided to stop by one evening last month, and 5 visits later, it's easy to see why Rivera has become one of the standout restaurants in Downtown L.A. with its relaxed, but stylish setting, wonderful cocktails, and elegant execution of Latin cuisine.
Rivera Restaurant is the result of a lifelong dream of Executive Chef John Rivera Sedlar. A native of Santa Fe, New Mexico, Chef Sedlar grew up seeing Mexican and Latin cuisine being treated as "second-class cuisine," with many people thinking that it was mainly about tacos and burritos, etc. He saw how elegant and fancy American and European cuisine was presented, and hoped to one day present Latin cuisine in the same light; to create a restaurant that could really elevate Latin cuisine to a similar level, and to that end, Chef Sedlar trained under Chef Jean Bertraneau (learning the classical French cuisine techniques), and even went on a real-life Anthony Bourdain/No Reservations-esque 14 year journey across Mexico, South America and the Caribbean to hone his skills. Rivera is the result of all of that.
Walking into Rivera, you find yourself immediately looking over at the simple, but stylish bar, helmed by head bartender Julian Cox. Glancing over the bar area, I notice piles of fresh fruit, herbs and vials of homemade fruit- and herb-infused concoctions that Julian and the rest of the bartending crew use for the various signature cocktails at Rivera.
On my first visit, we begin with the simplest of Prologos (Snacks) on the menu: Tortillas Florales (Housemade Nixtimal Tortillas, "Indian Butter").
These turn out to be visually beautiful (and tasty), handmade Tortillas, thick and crisped on the outside, with an edible Flower cooked into each one(!). It's cute and delicious with the Avocado-infused "Indian Butter."
Next up is their Bacalao Negro Fresco (Seared Black Cod, Serrano Ham Crisp).
The Black Cod is wonderfully cooked, first poached and then finished with a perfect searing resulting in a crispy, sexy crust, and a super-moist interior. Of the 3 times I've ordered this dish, it's been great every time. The Black Cod is *so* fresh and pure in its taste, with no hint of any bad brininess. The Serrano Ham adds a nice salty accent to each bite of the Black Cod, with the Jicama slivers adding that very fresh, crispness and textural contrast.
The housemade Salsa Verde (made from Serrano Chiles) also deserves mention for its fragrant, even-burning heat that accents the fish wonderfully without overpowering. And finally the Oregano-Mint "decoration" on the side of the plate is whimsical and fun, and another nice accent to the dish. Excellent! :)
While the Bacalao had some cute plating design, the Pollo Con Citricos (Pan Roasted Chicken, Citrus, Carrots, Wilted Spinach) represents something a bit more provoking, interesting, and curious, with its brazen "Courtesy is not a sign of weakness" lettering spelled out across the plate using Cumin and Turmeric.
The various messages that appear on the dinner plates is something Chef Sedlar wanted to try: He's a firm believer in the dinner table being a place not only to eat, but to commune and talk about things. So these messages are put on certain dishes to serve as a catalyst for that goal. :) It's interesting and different, and doesn't bother me.
The Chicken itself is another great dish: The Pan Roasted Chicken is extremely fresh and moist, cooked with a bit of Olive Oil, Rosemary and Thyme, served with some Purple Peruvian Potatoes.
The Fletan (Seared Halibut, Tomatillos, Tempura Chiles) is an exercise in perfectly cooked fish when Chef Sedlar is overseeing the kitchen.
The Halibut is like the Pollo Con Citricos, but even more so: Cooked simply in Olive Oil with some Salt and Black Pepper, it's very light, but not bland. The Tomatillos are thinly sliced and sprayed with a Citrus-infused Olive Oil, adding a nice hint of tart to the moist, flaky Halibut. But on another visit (on a Sunday), when Chef Sedlar was off, the Halibut was a bit overcooked around the edges.
The Duck Enfrijolada (Duck Confit, Goat Cheese, Stacked Blue-Corn Tortillas, Black Bean Puree, Chile Rioja Sauce) is another striking presentation, showing off the deep, dark colors of their Mole ("Mo-Leh") Sauce in an elegant manner.
The initial star of the dish is the housemade Chipotle-Cabernet Sauce: It's complex, with a good aroma that engages your sense of smell immediately, with a good creamy background and a slow burn.
But as you dig deeper, tasting a bit of the Blue-Corn Tortillas with the Chipotle Sauce and the Goat Cheese and some chunks of the Duck Confit, that's when the true beauty of this dish really shines: The flavors work beautifully, with the distinct, sharp Goat Cheese meshing nicely with the fatty, moist Duck Confit chunks of meat, and it all combines with the Blue-Corn Tortillas and Chipotle-Cabernet to enter into an earthy loveliness. Delicious! :)
Our final entree of the evening is their Maya Puerco Pibil Sous Vide (Banana Leaf Braised Pork Shoulder, Peruvian Potatoes).
After seeing the words "Sous Vide" in the description, I wasn't sure what to expect with this dish: Would it be like a Yucatecan Cochinita Pibil, or something far different? It turns out to be nice, generous slices of Braised Pork Shoulder presented on top of a Banana Leaf; another stylish presentation.
The Puerco Pibil itself tastes very clean and fresh, with a good tender quality to it, but also retaining a firmness in its texture and structure. It's nothing like the usual Cochinita Pibil I've seen locally, but it's a unique presentation and successful dish overall. I would've liked a bit more of the meltingly tender aspect with this Pork Shoulder, but otherwise, it was good.
For dessert, we decide to try one of their daily specials and one of their regular items. The Olive Oil Cake with Fresh Strawberries and Creme Fraiche & Strawberry Sorbet is a nice way to finish off dinner.
The Olive Oil Cake is very moist and well-permeated with Olive Oil but it's never overpowering. The Fresh Strawberries, Creme Fraiche Sorbet and Strawberry Sorbet combination adds just the right level of sugary sweetness and a touch of natural tartness to keep it from ever getting too saccharin.
The Baba Cachaca (with Citrus and Dulce De Leche) is something wildly different: It starts with some Bread soaked in Cachaca (a Brazilian alcoholic beverage made from Sugarcane), and then layered with Grapefruit and Cream.
Initially the Cachaca and the alcoholic content has a good punch, and the bitterness of the Grapefruit slices adds to the strangeness, but then you start tasting the subtleties of the combination, and a small dab into the Dulce De Leche swaths on the plate gives each bite a light sweetness to balance out the alcohol and bitter notes.
Overall the first visit was a pleasant, enjoyable evening, and on our way out - passing by the vials of housemade fruit- and herb-infused syrups - I was reminded to try their signature cocktails for my next visit. :)
For the second visit, we begin with their Tamal (Braised Pork Short Rib, Seasonal Mushrooms, Guajillo Sauce).
The Oyster Mushrooms are fragrant, but a bit dried out, but its aroma really opens up the flavors of the Kurobuta Pork in the Tamale. The Kurobuta Pork is tender and well-seasoned, but the highlight would have to be the Masa dough itself: Very moist and refined, the texture is perfect for the Pork filling.
Eager to try their cocktails, I begin with the Sabertooth (Cachaca, Lime, Eau de Vie, Blueberries). Taking a sip... refreshing, relaxing, real bits of Blueberry pulp; just delicious. The Sabertooth is thankfully not overpowered by the alcohol (as is too often the case), and you can taste the care and effort put into this drink. This is a serious cocktail, with Bartender Julian and staff using local Farmer's Market fresh fruit for their concoctions, and it shows.
It's also interesting to note that they use custom Ice Cubes from Neve Luxury Ice. The ice cube is one huge block of ice that's designed to minimize melting, so that the cocktail doesn't become diluted with water over time, while still keeping the drink properly chilled. (And after finishing the Sabertooth, the Neve Ice Cube retained about ~90% of its original size and shape; very cool. :)
My guest orders the Clover Club (Gin, Raspberry Preserve, Egg White, Lime). This is definitely a stronger drink, with the Gin front-and-center, but smoothed out with the Raspberry Preserve's light sweetness and the Egg White and Lime. It's a bit too much Gin for my tastes, but my guest loved it.
Our next starter arrives: Piquillos Rellenos (Stuffed Spanish Peppers, Chorizo, Golden Raisins, Gruyere).
This is another beautiful presentation, visually engaging, and it makes me all the more eager to try it. While the Chorizo flavor isn't very apparent, it adds enough to enhance the mild, sweet Gruyere and Golden Raisins combination. The only slight disappointment is that it was served at room temperature (both times I've ordered it).
But possibly the best starter to try would have to be Chef Sedlar's Cordorniz Cubana (Grilled Quail, Black Beans).
Succulent, juicy, tender Quail that's cooked just through... there's a light smokiness, and the Frijoles Negros (Black Beans) is surprisingly light and earthy, with an enchanting light spice note from the Achiote Peppers. Quail can be so easy to mess up, but after Animal, I'm happy to have found another restaurant that shines with its Quail dish. Outstanding!
Their Mole (Kurobuta Pork Chop, Mole, Market Fresh Vegetables) is another example of Chef Sedlar's deft touch in combining the traditional with modern touches.
The Mole ("Mo-Leh") Sauce is immediately accessible, yet still layered enough to have you yearning to know more about the complex sauce. There's a good Chocolate note, along with a nice low burn. It's not going to rival Moles La Tia anytime soon, but it's a solid Mole Sauce.
The menu lists the Mole Sauce as being the star of the dish, but after biting into a bit of the Pork Chop, the clear winner is the excellent Kurobuta Pork Chop. Of the two times ordering this dish, the Kurobuta Pork Chop has been cooked just right: Tender, juicy, yet still with a great meaty, firmness, this is one of the best Pork Chops I've had in a while.
At this point, my guest orders another cocktail to try: A Good Night (Bourbon, Orange Zest Bitters, Tequila, Honey, Cherry). This one is definitely for all the Bourbon lovers out there. It's strong, but the Bitters, Honey and Cherry help take some of the edge off this drink. My guest loved it, but this is something that's a bit too potent for me. :)
Their Purple Rain (Vodka, Violet, Ginger, Rosewater, Thai Basil) on the other hand, is just beautiful and stunning, visually and taste-wise.
It's absolutely refreshing and completely enjoyable to drink as a beverage, with the Ginger, Rosewater and Thai Basil giving each sip a natural floral scent with a great taste. One of my new favorite cocktails. :)
We continue onto dessert, starting with the Estudio en Flan (Three Different Styles of the Classic Dessert, with Three Complementary Sauces).
This is a fascinating dish, not because of the presentation (which is well done), but because of the 3 densities of Flan presented. Starting from the left side, the first Flan is the lightest, having a far more light and airy consistency than the usual Flan found around town. It's absolutely wonderful by itself, but you can also dab a bit of it in the Strawberry Anise Sauce, Black Pepper Caramel, or Blackberry Curry, and entice your senses even more. (^_~)
The middle Flan is the Flan with the medium density; it tastes familiar and is the one most similar to the standard Flan dessert found around town. It's also delicious in its own way, but the densest Flan is the most curious. It's definitely thicker and more viscous in some ways, but still delicious. Ultimately it's a great play on textures with the same type of dessert, and something I've found myself ordering again and again.
For my 3rd visit, we begin with Caballito de Sopas Dobles (Two Latin Soups, Different Flavors, Different Temperatures). For this evening, it's Arroz Con Leche with a Lamb Veloute. The Arroz Con Leche is really light and smooth, and at room temperature. It's layered with the Lamb Veloute as the 2nd layer, which is so pure, buttery and completely permeating Lamb goodness at a warm temperature. The result is a shot of 2 different flavors slowly combining at 2 different temperatures in your mouth.
The Cordero Vasco (Basque Lamb Chops, Chorizo, Piquillos, Olives, Capers) arrives soon after.
I love Lamb in general, so I couldn't wait to try this. Unfortunately the Lamb Chops were a touch too salty, but were still moist and supple for the most part. It was cooked about medium to medium-well in doneness, and looking back on the dish, it was probably the combination of Chorizo, Capers and general Salting of the Lamb Chops that did this dish in for me.
I decide to start with their Strawberry Fields (Blanco Tequila, Velvet Falernum, Strawberries, Cucumber, Mint) cocktail, which turns out to be yet another winner on their amazing Cocktail Menu. Imagine super-vibrant Farmer's Market Strawberries, freshly muddled, with Cucumber and Mint, blending just right with the Blanco Tequila. It's like the best Fresh Fruit Smoothie that's been Spiked (just a touch). (^_~) This has become another favorite cocktail of mine.
The Pato al Vino (Duck Confit, Rioja Reduction, Cascabel Chile) shows off some of Chef Sedlar's French Cuisine training with a very good rendition of Duck Confit. The Duck tastes fresh, succulent and still tender, with a crisped skin. The Rioja Reduction gives it a nice layer of flavor, but the Duck Confit can stand on its own as well.
Perhaps the only disappointing item I've had on the menu is surprisingly the Jamon Iberico de Bellota Pata Negra (World's Finest Ham, Housemade Bread).
I've only had Jamon Iberico de Bellota previously at The Bazaar, where I fell in love with this type of Cured, Free-Range Pork immediately. At The Bazaar, the Jamon Iberico de Bellota was lightly salty, but so vibrant and just stunning, and gristle-free.
But here, with the Jamon being hand-carved to order, it tasted like a completely different type of Jamon. It was extremely salty, and each piece we tried had some noticeable gristle. Looking back on my pictures, they look slightly different. I'm not sure why the two are so different (perhaps different brands), but this was one disappointing dish.
The Crema Catalana (Almonds, Xerez Creme) thankfully rebounds nicely.
This dessert is really aromatic, nutty and lightly sweet. The Powdered Sugar Almonds add a nice touch as well, giving a playful crunch to the creaminess of the rest of the dessert.
Finally, their Mexico City Sundae is an explosion of intensity: It's a Vanilla, Habanero(!), Passion Fruit Helado (Ice Cream), topped with Roasted Pine Nuts and Caramel.
It's wild and spicy and truly completely intense! Surprisingly it's not too sweet, and it's the most bizarre thing to be eating Ice Cream, and experiencing a spicy burning sensation, while also being cooled by the Ice Cream. :)
Service has been attentive and solid for the most part. During my first visit, our waitress seemed a bit distant at times, with us having to flag down a secondary server in the area to take care of our needs at times. But on the 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th visits, the service has been just fine. Prices range from $2 - $44 (for the Jamon Iberico), with most dishes in the $10 - $20 range. Cocktails range from $6 - $15. We averaged about ~$50 per person (including tax and tip).
With an elegant, but relaxed atmosphere, outstanding cocktails, and simply delicious creations by Chef Sedlar, Rivera is quickly becoming one of the best reasons to dine in Downtown L.A. One of the most subtle achievements, but my absolute favorite thing about Rivera, is its refinement. This isn't about the negative connotations of the word, but about the fact that Chef Sedlar and the kitchen staff have focused on creating dishes that are generally never too salty (except the Jamon), never too oily, or too sweet. Chef Sedlar set out to create a restaurant that celebrates Latin Cuisine and can elevate it to a level that rivals that of many fine American and European restaurants. From the interesting plating design, to the stylish atmosphere and delicious cocktails, to the restrained but excellent food, he has succeeded with flying colors.
*** Rating: 8.5 (out of 10.0) ***
1050 S. Flower Street, #102
Los Angeles, CA 90015
Tel: (213) 749-1460
Hours: [Lunch] Mon - Fri, 11:30 a.m. - 2:00 p.m.
[Dinner] Mon - Sat, 5:30 p.m. - 10:30 p.m.
Sunday, 5:30 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.
[Late Night] Thu - Sat, 10:30 p.m. - 1:00 a.m. (special late night menu served until 12:00 Midnight)
What a review.
Regarding the Iberico, I would agree about your impression and the way it is cut. At Rivera, we have the bone-in Iberico and we use a knife which results in a much thicker cut and is creates a different flavor. Jose Andres, who is actually the importer of the product for both of us, at Bazaar uses a de-boned Iberico so he can use a slicer which allows for a much thinner cut and frankly is much faster given the volume they go through. As you get to the bone, the slices become very difficult and irregular, but that is what the product really is. If you have prosciutto de Parma sliced really thin it becomes sweeter in taste.
John Sedlar has brought a slicer to use but he still likes to cut the Iberico by hand with the bone-in product. We may switch to the Bazaar method though. Maybe we can buy one that is de-boned and then we will slice it much thinner and we can do a little tasting and compare with you and some of your readers.
Thanks for all your comments and writing.
Hi Bill Chait,
Thanks so much for the insight and kind comments. It's interesting to know that Rivera and Jose Andres' Bazaar use the same product but one is deboned and the other isn't. It makes sense as peppermonkey states that a much thinner slice helps with managing salt levels and better texture.
I've enjoyed most items at Rivera and normally really enjoy the Iberico, but at Rivera thicker hand-cut really made it not as enjoyable as the version I had at Bazaar. Thanks again for the insight.
I liked it too on my one and only visit. I don't know what the problem was with the posters in this earlier review. I also enjoyed the crema catalana and the salmon lunch plate. I would say the friend's tacos were less than exciting, though nicely plated.
Thought I'd weigh (perhaps a bad choice of words) in since nobody seems to have done so recently.
We were there this past weekend. The place looked cool and classy, as has been previously mentioned. We were seated, (promptly) in a small dining area which (HUZZAH!) effectively dampened the noise from the bar, allowing us to converse.
Started with cocktails. As I'm not particularly a "sweet-drink" fan, I had a flight of tequilas (of the six choices, I selected prickly pear, pomegranate and the "mujer") the rest of the table was just looking to get plowed (traffic had been REALLY special getting here.) The others had a "pretty good" martini and a "yummy" margarita on the rocks. I was disappointed in the flight, particularly because the infusions simply masked the tequila. I disliked the mujer least but for the life of me, it tasted like it had caramel in it. Just not my cup o' tequila.
Moving on, we ordered:
"Tortillas Florales" - Housemade Nixtimal Tortillas, “Indian Butter”
"Xnipek" – (it’s pronounced “shnee-peck”, impress your friends) Yucatan Style Charred-Habanero “Dog’s Snout” Salsa, Mini Chips
The tortillas arrived warm, decorated with pressed flowers (I have no idea why but what the heck) and pretty tasty . The “Indian butter,” which appears in quotes any time it’s mentioned in a review, is simply a smooth, quite delicate guacamole. The “snout” was enjoyable. Thin strips of fried tortillas accompanying a complex but surprisingly mild, salsa. Good. Simple, Elegant.
"Choros Al Vapor" - Mussels, Chorizo, Aji Amarillo-Pisco Broth
These mussels were a disappointment. From the menu description I was anticipating some HUGE flavors but without the occasional bit of raw-jalapeno garnish, the miniscule mollusks were pretty “meh.” I discerned no trace of chorizo anywhere but if they said it was there. . . well, it must have been there.
"Cordorniz Cubana" - Grilled Quail, Black Beans
My favorite dish was the quail. Nicely prepared, perfectly seasoned and smartly (texture was perfect with the bird) accompanied by the black bean sauce. Now, THAT’S what I was talkin’ ‘bout.
"Pato Al Vino" - Duck Confit, Rioja Reduction, Cascabel Chile
The Duck confit was . . . well, basically good duck confit. Nothing special but if you like duck confit, you’ll like this.
"Tamal" - Braised Pork Short Rib, Seasonal Mushrooms, Guajillo Sauce
"Pescado Del Día" - Today’s Fresh Seafood Selection (it was grilled Scallops) Pineapple, Cilantro Salad
The tamal and the scallops were both popular. As you might guess, the “tamal” is tamale-esque but the massa is really moist (unlike far too many others) and tasty. The shredded pork filling was also excellent and we particularly enjoyed the flavor of oyster mushrooms atop it all. Coulda eaten several of those puppies. The scallops were perfectly grilled and just popped with that pineapple-cilantro salad.
Duck Enfrijolada - Goat Cheese, Stacked Blue-Corn Tortillas, Black Bean Puree, Chile Rioja Sauce
The Duck Enfrijolada was exactly as it read but the tortillas were leathery and in my opinion, the goat cheese was too prominent, the other flavors too inconspicuous.
Estudio En Flan - Three Different Styles Of The Classic Dessert, With Three Complementary Sauces
Quesos Españoles - Three Spanish Cheeses With Sangría Jus And Crusty Bread
Estudio En Flan consisted of three, two-bite lumps of differently flavored flan. Looked sensational but as I’m not a fan of the flan, I passed on tasting. Everyone else seemed to like it. and Quesos Españoles were like most cheese plates, a couple bites of a mild, a medium and a bleu. All just fine.
The service, from the time we gave our vehicle to the valet ($5 bucks in downtown LA on a weekend … a STEAL!) until we walked out, was top notch. Friendly, knowledgeable, efficient and unobtrusive. So appreciated.
I was kind of disappointed not to see any of the, heretofore mentioned, decorative plate messages. They looked so "fun" in the Times review.
Finally, my one gripe is that most of the dishes were pretty spare. Mind you, I’ve eaten small plate meals elsewhere so this isn’t in reference to portion size. I am, however, of the opinion that a single leaf (literally) of cilantro and 3 toothpick sized pieces of pineapple don’t quite support one's expectation of a “Pineapple, Cilantro Salad”.
Of course maybe that's just me.
re: Steve2 in LA
Hi Steve2 in LA,
Thanks for your extensive report back. :) I love the Quail as well there. Sorry to hear about your Enfrijolada... when we ordered it (twice) we were lucky to have more appetizing versions than the tortilla you described.
Yah the plate messages (decoration) seems to be random at times. We got decorations on our Bacalao Negro Fresco (Seared Black Cod, Serrano Ham Crisp) (the 2 times we ordered it), and we got it on the Pollo Con Citricos (Pan Roasted Chicken, Citrus, Carrots, Wilted Spinach) (the 2 times we ordered that as well (over the course of our multiple visits)).
As for portions, we never tried the Pineapple Salad you described, but we usually went with ~1 - 4 appetizers (depending on how many people we had that night) and each of us ordered our own entree, and maybe the table shared a dessert (or two).
That cucumber and serrano chile tequila infusion was nice, so were the other cocktails we ordered.EK, the few dishes you selected were all as you describe here, and the ceviche de atun was nice, so common in Baja, but usually unheard of over here.
Would like to see chef Sadlar put a little work into that tequila list though.Amazingly ordinary, given the attention to detail with everything else. .
Great review. Great restaurant. Great guy too (Sedlar).
Funny, but some months ago, before Rivera opened someone on Chowhound said something disaparging about Sedlar. I came to his defense (and went on offense). Well, you can't do that on Chowound I quickly found out, and was told if I did it again, I'd get the boot. So it's nice to know Mr. Sedlar is finally getting respect on Chowhound.
I'm getting hungry ready the review. And I've been to Rivera many times.
Wow! Beautiful photos. The Duck Enfrijolada is now my new favorite food. I haven't even tried it yet, but I declare it the winner. Actually, I'm making my way there pronto for the Duck Enfrijolada, the Purple Rain (I love all things floral/perfume-y tasting) and the Mole Kurobuta Chop.
And now I know about designer ice cubes too! So much to learn...
The duck was also the stand-out dish for me when we went. Really amazing.
EK, interestingly, I preferred the jamon at Rivera to the Bazaar's. Of course, they were both amazing, but I liked the more rustic presentation at Rivera, and didn't experience any of the over-saltiness or gristle you described. I went a few weeks ago, so maybe it was a different leg, or a different part of the leg. And yeah, those cocktails are amazing.
I totally agree in that I love the rustic / whole leg presentation of the Jamon at Rivera. Maybe it was a bad cut, or the certain section they were cutting into (since they're making their way through the whole leg) was just a bad section for my order. I was so surprised and disappointed that it was that salty, but otherwise, everything else was pretty solid. Thanks for the report on your Jamon plate. :)
Ah so you thought so, too, about the Jamon Iberico? It's strange, but I'm guessing it's maybe certain parts of the leg, or just the knife skills of the Jamon cutter at Rivera. Other than that, though, like you, I totally agree: I've enjoyed most of the other dishes at Rivera overall. (And their amazing cocktails. :)