REVIEW: Hygge Bakery, Downtown LA
- Das Ubergeek Jul 2, 2009 09:49 PM
I am part Danish, and the Danish part of my family were famous for their baking (they were all home- and church-bakers, not professionals). I was so excited to see someone post about a Danish bakery (as opposed to a danish bakery) in Downtown that I broke my train journey to Burbank this morning, got on the Metro Purple Line and headed to the new Hygge Bakery on Hope St. just south of 11th in the South Park neighbourhood, two blocks from the Staples Center.
About the name: "Hygge" is one of those untranslatable words, but the closest I can come in English is "cozy" or "warm fuzzies". Great British pubs are hygge; snuggling with your loved one by a fire on a cold winter evening is hygge; a party with friends where everyone's having a great time and nobody's barfed yet from alcohol is hygge.
I don't think you could describe the bakery's decor as hygge. It's stark modern look-at-all-these-lofts-how-could-Downtown-change-so-quickly-my-God-this-used-to-be-a-homeless-encampment. It doesn't matter, though. Nobody goes to a bakery for the atmosphere, they go to a bakery for the baked goods.
The place smells great. You can absolutely smell that bakery all the way from the opposite corner of 11th and Hope.
The place is definitely a Danish bakery (again, not a danish bakery), with lots of items involving almond paste and flaky pastry. One item was a, well, a raised danish with sweet almond filling and chocolate chips. Good, but very sweet (don't sweeten your coffee as much).
Poppy seed buns were not what I expected -- not classically sweet, made with the sort of vaguely sweet dough used for flaky pastry, rolled over, coated in poppy seeds (white poppy seeds for the butter buns, dark for the non-butter buns). You would need a sweet coffee milk to dip this into.
Raspberry and apple danish were perfectly OK, but I'm 99% sure they were made with pre-made fruit fillings. This is a shame because fruit is busting out all over the place in Los Angeles that could be turned into scrumptious fillings in the space of half an hour.
Croissants were better than average, but not as good as, say, Le Pain Quotidien or Aux Delices.
A standout item -- easily the best thing in the place -- was the buns, what Finns would call pulla and what Swedes know as lussekattar. This is a milk bread made into buns, some plain, some studded with raisins, some studded with chocolate chips. They had that undulating, shiny, soft brown top that is the epitome of what a Scandinavian coffee bun looks like. The only way to improve these would be with just a pinch of freshly-ground cardamom in the dry ingredients. Then they would taste exactly -- EXACTLY -- like Aunt Gertrude's cardamom buns, which I make every year for my wife's Swedish family. Not to mention that they were hot, and I had people giving me desperate looks of longing the whole way back to Union Station and the whole way up to Burbank.
I sampled the two breads at the counter (there were a lot of samples, I was happy). The rye bread was spongy -- finally, some spongy rye bread. Good sour taste, great crumb. Needs the chewy/slightly crunchy top in order to compete with Streit's. The white bread I tried was fairly average and I might buy a loaf for the very fine, soft crumb if I were making bread-and-butter puddings, but I don't see it as a bread I would do much with. One thing I saw was the rye breads wrapped in plastic on the shelf. That is NOT a good thing -- and it makes it look like the bread was from yesterday. I'm sure it wasn't -- it didn't taste day-old -- but if someone sees it they will assume that.
I did not order coffee. It was in big pots marked Gaviña and I don't like Gaviña coffee at all.
They also have a selection of cookies, and a strawberry tart with fresh strawberries on top of a sponge cake with Bavarian cream and ganache. Looked good, lots of strawberries, but for $20 I think I would like it to be a bit... bigger. I didn't try it, obviously, so I've no basis for whether it tastes good.
In talking to a woman at the Coffee Bean on 9th and Hope (I told you I wouldn't drink Gaviña coffee!) about the place, she said she'd seen it but it hadn't been open and that she wondered if it would serve lunch. If they put some sweet butter on that rye bread and then a slice of smoked salmon, or cucumber and egg, or tiny brine shrimp and an olive, I'd go there and eat them. I love smørrebrød, the Danish open-faced sandwiches.
Service was kind but sort of all over the place. Four people behind the counter at 7.30 in the morning, but only some people knew how much things were (and not everything was marked -- shame on you, either mark them all or mark none, don't equivocate!). I'm not going to ding them for the service, though. Anyplace is going to have some wobbles the first day and at least they were able to answer questions. One hint to one particular staff member, though -- when someone asks what's in an item, "almonds and sugar and stuff" is not a good answer. "Almond paste on a pastry raft with sugar glaze" would have been a better answer.
Prices were OK. I bought probably a dozen and a half pastries and a dozen of the milk bread buns, and my total was $38 or so. Perfectly fine pricing for downtown, and I'm sure the rent in that building can't be cheap.
I'm not sure if they are planning to expand the selection. There are only so many things you can do with almond paste, chocolate and glacé icing, so I'm going to do something unusual here, which is make a concrete list of thing they could do to improve the place, given that they're not even open a week yet, and I'm going to break the fourth wall here:
1. More signage. While this is definitely going to be a neighbourhood place, you folks are only four blocks from the 7th St/Metro Centre Metro Rail stop. It is not too far to go, but I had to wander around the intersection and come at the place cock-eyed before I found it.
2. Get your website up. It's on your business cards, but you're pulling an Yxta (they FINALLY got theirs up and running). At least put up a placeholder static page with your exact address, a photo so people know what to look for when approaching, your phone number and hours. The only thing out there besides weekly neighbourhood rags talking about your "upcoming bakery" is your Yelp page, which does not have this information.
3. Label the prices while you train your staff. I bought a lot of stuff and had absolutely no idea how much I was going to spend. It turned out to be OK but I would have been pissed off to find out that an item was much more than I thought. Surprises are bad.
4. Diversify a little bit. Fresh fruit is much more available here year-round than it is in Denmark. Use it -- cook it down with sugar in a pot and use it for fillings. Don't use the stuff that comes in a giant tin from Sysco. Fresh is more expensive but things like the Donut Man's fresh peach doughnuts or even Marie Callender's strawberry pies should tell you that people are willing to pay more for fresh.
5. Don't wrap your breads. It's off-putting to see them wrapped up like I'm at the appy counter at Albertsons or something.
This has the hallmarks of a good beginning, and doubtless I will return, but this place needs a month or two to get things going and get comfortable in their skin before I'll try again. Unless, of course, I get the hunger for those milk bread buns again.
Since the Add-a-Place is broken:
1106 S. Hope St.
Los Angeles, CA 90015
1106 S Hope St, Los Angeles, CA 90015
Great review, mine was short but in some ways I do feel the same way as you, I don't feel the bakery is quite complete yet. We also got blank answers from the attendant when we asked basic questions regarding their items.
I hope I capitalized the D for Danish in my review, but if I didn't I do apologize for it.
As for the price of things, one of the only prices we saw was 20.00 for the small strawberry cake/tart, not everything was labeled.
We bought: 1 coffee, 1 focaccia (small piece), 1 apple Danish, and 1 apple cookie type pastry, and our total was 17.00. I have no idea what the price of each item was.
Thanks for sharing your experience, now I want to go back and try those milk bread buns.
This is such good news! How I love and miss Danish food. If anyone is listening, yes, please to the request for smørrebrød. I make my own but it's one of those things that tastes so much better in Denmark it just makes me wistful rather than satisfying my appetite.
Did you see any æbleskiver on your visit?
Nej, jeg er ked af, jeg så nogen æbleskiver, but then again they'd been open maybe two days at that point so who knows. (Æbleskiver, for those who don't know, are basically pancake balls which are served with berry jam and sometimes cream.)
I liked it, though I think I set my expectations too high. It is DEFINITELY very Danish, I will give them that.
As to the smørrebrød... this do you in the meantime? http://www.ap-petite.com/sandwiches.html
Mme Zoe and I spent weeks in Denmark last summer looking for her family - Dad's side who came over to North Dakota in the 1870's bringing with them the aebleskiver pan! We make these on a regular basis - wonderful for Sunday brunch. Can't wait to go to this new Danish outpost - still miss the bakery on Pico - Danish Kitchen? which closed many moons ago - they had good smorrebrod too and Princess cake.
Hygge bakery only opened its doors on june 30th. Any person should know that a food and beverage business that is newly open does not have everything done properly due to time constrains, manpower, government etc. How can anyone be in sound mind to judge a business based on simply just one walk in? This place is run by real danish people with years and years of experience, not one of the so called "bakers" American-Euros know about. He bakes just as well as any "home baker" in denmark does. As food critics, we must be responsible and state facts, not based on assumptions that this is real and this isn't not. I'm sure even without your two cent worth on how danish people should run their business, they know more than anyone else how to run their own business. is anyone aware of how starbucks and coffee bean awfully roast their coffee beans? Any one who likes Starbucks are not real bakery/coffee lovers. Let's give hygge some time and not pass judgement so quickly.
Any real danish people will know that pastries do not have to be fruit based. American has butchered the real taste of what danish pastries should taste like.
Le Pain Quotidien Isn't an authentic bakery. However, i must applaud them for their PR skills, managing to sell overpriced pastries and non-french food to rich people in Los Angeles who has never tasted real bread before :)
overall, i do agree with you that they have good pastries and bread. it's the most authentic danish bakery one can find in America. someone should try convincing me of a more authentic, better danish bakery than hygge, because nothing can beat hygge for sure.
DU made it perfectly clear that the place just opened; we're intelligent enough to know what that means, and to keep that in mind while reading his review. His recap of his experience there gives the rest of us an idea of what to expect should we also visit Hygge this early in the game.
And just about every suggestion DU made was sound advice, especially the part about showing prices. As far as the fresh fruit idea that you seem to be against, _if_ it will attract more customers, sticking to some imaginary cultural principle and not doing so is simply shooting oneself in the foot. Do you honestly think bakers in Denmark wouldn't use more fresh fruit if it were as abundant as it is here?
"They had that undulating, shiny, soft brown top that is the epitome of what a Scandinavian coffee bun looks like. The only way to improve these would be with just a pinch of freshly-ground cardamom in the dry ingredients. Then they would taste exactly -- EXACTLY -- like Aunt Gertrude's cardamom buns..."
I'm looking over a new cookbook called "Falling Cloudberries" by Tessa Kiros, with recipes from all of her various ancestral homelands and the various places she's lived, starting with Finland. Those buns are in there, or a very close approximation. And all of the fruit-filled items are made from fresh fruit, mostly berries for the Finnish items (as you might guess from the title). Folks in the northern latitudes don't lack as much for fruit as we subtropicals tend to think; in fact, there are many varieties we can't grow simply because the plants require a good long cold spell for the fruit to set. Gooseberries and red currants, for instance.