Sfogliatelle at La Biscotteria in Redwood City (don't get excited)
- Melanie Wong Jun 13, 2009 07:49 PM
My destination after the farmers market this morning was a stop at La Biscottteria. I’ve been hearing about the focaccia and cannoli for some time now. These items are available on Saturdays. I arrived before 10am to see the “open” sign in the window and customers inside already. A little worried that the coveted items might already be gone, I hurried in the door.
A pleasant surprise was a big platter of Neopolitan specialty, sfogliatelle. These looked really good with more layers than Sfoglia’s or Danilo’s, if a bit blonder in hue. However, these missed the mark by a wide margin. The pastry in thinner than either of those but was not crispy. These were tough and chewy rather than brittle and crunchy, and actually difficult to bite through. The filling was fine, but the search for sfogliatelle continues.
The cannolo was even worse. The shell again was blonde rather than golden brown and thickish with few bubbles. It was hard rather than shatteringly crispy. The liqueur-flavored filling was quite creamy with citrus notes and mini chocolate chips.
I also picked up some green onion focaccia. Once again, this suffered from underbaking. The edges were barely golden and the center of the sheet was decidedly white. These are sold pre-wrapped in heavy white paper or I would have rejected this one. The middle was like wonder bread, compacting in the teeth and not springing back. The center was doughy and undercooked. This did have a lot of chopped green onions on top, but needed more salt and olive oil for flavor. Quite boring and undercooked.
The people are really nice here. But I don’t like their products. Ten dollars down the drain.
2747 El Camino Real, Redwood City, CA 94061