Bina Osteria loses its exec chef
Restaurant just confirmed a rumor I originally saw on Yelp: Exec Chef Brian Konefal has left Bina. Azita Bina is running the kitchen, I'm guessing temporarily while they look for a replacement.
That's kind of surprising to me. I imagine they invested a lot in bringing him aboard, and the reviews have been strong. I liked his cooking, even forgave him his penchant for foams.
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I ate at Bina about a month ago and can agree with a lot of commenters that Chef Konefal's gnocci was the best I've had in my life. That includes the summer I spent in Italy. I am sure that the reason that it is not on the menu anymore is because he is no longer at the restaurant. The recipes that chef's formulate are their property and they take them with them when they leave restaurants.
Also, I am sad that I will not be able to eat his wife's (the former Pastry Chef) desserts again. They were equally amazing. I hope that they stay in Boston! -
MC Slim JB
Jun 3, 2009 02:54 PM
It's not a rumor. I confirmed with a call to the restaurant.
The obvious reasons are consistent with many Chowhounds' initial reactions to the prices here, mine included: too high to keep the place busy and profitable in a deep recession. They're reformulating the menu downmarket to something that will get more butts in the seats, and Konefal wasn't interested in doing that.
Maybe there's more to the story, but that's a simple explanation that fits the facts, and I'm a big fan of Occam's Razor.
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re: maxrexsharky
Here's what I don't get: everywhere you turned you read about their melt-in-your-mouth gnocchi and their superb carbonara (and i can also attest to the deliciousness of both dishes, they were both excellent.) Why would they take these items off the menu? They had to be among their most popular dishes. Is it b/c they were this particular chef's signature dishes? Wouldn't you think one of the other talented cooks/chefs could figure out a way to try and replicate, if not the gnocchi, the carbonara?
I had an outstanding dinner here just over a month ago. Was really one of my favorite new spots in Boston and I couldn't wait to get back. I just looked at the new dinner menu and was thoroughly unimpressed. There's nothing on there I'd be excited to get. The lunch menu does still seem to have the carbonara on it --another oddity --why only lunch?
I get that they are trying to lower price points a bit --what I don't get is why they wouldn't keep some of their best signature dishes on the menu. A big disappointment, as far as I am concerned.-
re: twentyoystahs
MC Slim JB
Jun 3, 2009 08:43 PM
Maybe the cost basis of Konefal's signature dishes (ingredients and labor) don't fit the new profile.
I have to admit I was surprised to be there on a Saturday night right after the BoMag review appeared that said "don't miss the gnocchi" to find that the gnocchi had been discontinued. Chef sick of making it? Chef refusing to pander to the masses who only follow the critics? Coincidence? I can't say, but I can tell you there were a lot of disappointed first-time diners there that night. (I thought an earlier version of the gnocchi was very fine, but not my favorite dish there.)
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Matt H
Jun 3, 2009 11:50 AM
I'm also assuming that his wife who was the pastry chef left also? This is very surprising, I hope the replacement keeps the kitchen running at a high standard because this is one of my favorite places to eat in the city currently, a great addition to the neighborhood.
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MC Slim JB
Jun 3, 2009 11:48 AM
One source tells me the move was in keeping with owners' desire to move a bit downscale in keeping with the economy, which is clearly not Konefal's bailiwick. Among other changes, expect a new lower-priced prix fixe menu. (I must admit, the prices did keep me from visiting more often.)
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