Kosher in Budapest
We'll be traveling to Budapest in early October and would love to try interesting kosher restaurants. Any suggestions?
There's pretty much nothing "interesting" in terms of food but Hanna is an old-fashioned community canteen that is pretty interesting--think 19th century. Try to make friends with a local before walking in and you'll get a lower price. There's a fixed menu, usually a soup, a protein with potatoes and some kind of pastry. The food is OK at best but the experience is definitely memorable. The other options are Frohlich's Bakery, owned by one of the main rabbis of the Neolog (like conservative) synagogue at Dohany Utca (the biggest one); the restaurant in King's Hotel, which is the only shomer friendly hotel in the ghetto; Karmel, which converted to kosher last year after years of being a go-to Jewish restaurant in the ghetto--it's very good but overpriced; a pizza shop called Cari Mama to which I've never been.
BTW, there are also two veggie Israeli places in Pest that are good--Falafel and Hummus Bar. They don't have hashgacha but some more modern folks that I know eat there.
The Rothschild Super Market on the Nagy Korut near Dohany has a lot of Israeli and US kosher products. Also, there are two main butchers that are open 3-4 days a week (changes all the time). One is in the ghetto and one is near the newer modern community in the 13th district.
I have gone to Budapest at least twice annually for 13 years so I'd be glad to answer any questions you may have.
DeisCane...Thanks for your advice. Our next question is about hotel location..we want to be centrally located so that we can walk to major attractions. What area (hotel) would you recommend as centrally located? After the Jewish ghetto what would be your "must see' suggestions?
Thank you so much!l
Here's a note I sent a friend headed there the last two weeks of August. I hope it's applicable to the same extent:
So here's the scoop. Buda and Pest are essentially two separate cities, divided by the Danube. Buda is more residential, almost suburban in many places, while Pest is more businessy and urban. Staying in Pest, you will be near the subway, tram or bus in just about any decent hotel. It's a large city but it's well-designed and well-served by transportation.
Some of the must-sees in BP:
*Dohany Synagogue: world's largest in terms of capacity, where my wife and I got married, spectacular, 150+ years old
*Gellert Spa and Baths: the Buda side is famous for its springs and the Gellert Hotel is the most famous spa that taps into them
*Heroes' Square: where most public gatherings of note have taken place over the 20th century, it's a series of statues representing 1000 years of Hungarian heroes, in a monstrous public square.
*Andrassy Street: THE boulevard of note in Budapest, it ends at Heroes' Square...has lovely shops and cafes, plus a few great spots including Liszt Square, with lots of bars and restaurants, the Opera House and the Oktagon, a huge intersection
*Nyugati Train Station: spectacular old station, also houses the world's fanciest McDonald's
*Vaci Utca (as opposed to Vaci Ut): the downtown shopping district, very touristy but even still, very quaint, ends at Vorosmarty Square, where many famous marches, etc. have been, VS is also the location of the most famous coffee shop in BP, Gerbeaud
*Castle district: the oldest part of Buda, ridiculously quaint, on a hill, with great vistas, including the fisherman's bastion, cute shops, museums and cafes
*Gellert Hill: biggest hill near the Danube with a giant statue of liberty
*Parliament: spectacular faux gothic building, right on the river
*Bridges: all of 'em, especially the chain bridge
I believe the Rothschild markets on the Nagy Korut is (actually, I think there are two, one past Oktogon and one not far from the Margaret Bridge) are fairly far from Dohany. The one on Karoly korut near Dohany, by Madach Imre ter, seems to have changed hands and now sports another logo on its front (CBA?), and may no longer stock Israeli items,
curious what you found on this trip; the only certain kosher markets i'm aware of now are the rothschild at 12 Dob utca and the kosher butcher very near the orthodox synagogue (the latter is pretty much a catastrophe as butchers go)
zaelic, do you exist? have you any input if you do? or have you slouched off chowhound to TimeOut forever?
We actually spent the whole trip in Balaton and didn't make it to anything in BP, unfortunately.
I totally agree about the butcher near Kazinczy but I'm surprised you don't know about the one in the 13th. Has it gone under or is not stringent for you...or did you just not know about it?
we just got back from a week in budapest and had shabbat dinner at hanna's (prepaid). the food was pretty bland -a preset menu that included a small carafe of wine, two dry challahs, chicken soup and matza ball, boiled chicken drumstick, a small slice of meat, coleslaw, cooked potatoes, dry cake dessert and tea-- their weekday menu was much better. there was a family there who were asked to stop singing their shabbat zemirot (shabbat songs) because the women in the family were singing along, and this was considered immodest. chareidi jews may feel most comfortable here. the other kosher restaurant that offers shabbat prepaid meals (carmel, also glatt kosher) may be more comfortable for modern orthodox folks. (unfortunately it was closed the shabbat we were there).
Who were the charedi that were concerned about kol isha?! I'd guess they were tourists. I have never seen or heard of a Budapester black hat-type who fit that profile.
Anyhow, your description of Hanna is on target. I ate lunch there most days when I worked nearby and it was pretty much exactly that experience (minus the zmeros). Did you eat at Carmel at all the rest of the week? As mentioned elsewhere, it's only recently become kosher, and I have yet to try it.