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May 14, 2009 03:36 PM

Racks-best pizza in So. Fla??

I love Racks. This new Italian place with a great view on the Intracoastal in N. Miami Beach has great pizza It is baked in a domed brick/coal burning oven, and has the perfect crust-charred, a little ash-y, thin/crisp, but also a little chewy on top with that distinct dry coal finish. The oval-shaped pie I had was topped with artisanal sopressata secchi, goat cheese, aged provolone, and San Marzano tomatoes, and cooked just to the exact heat to separately bring out the best in all these high-quality ingredients, while also allowing them to mingle flavors for extra depth. When it is removed from the oven, the pie is then topped with a few hand-gratings of three-year-old Parmigiano-Reggiano, and some Olio Verde. The roof of my mouth is still ripped open the next day, as I could not stop consuming my two slices, right from the oven (which I was reverently standing in front of, naturally) before they cooled even slightly. I was offered one slice by the sweet-talking chef, but I 'mistakenly' ripped off two from the hot pie. I wanted to stay right at the counter, talking to the chef, Matthew, all evening, and just sample the pizzas as they came out of the oven. He later explained that the dough spends three days rising in wooden boxes he had hand-made in New York.

Of course they also have the red Berkel hand-slicer (I loves you Berky), and at this free event I attended, they were serving some beautiful prosciutto, speck, and some other imported salumi. But without a doubt, they have vaulted to the top of South Florida pizza-making. I guess that's easy, when, according to the chef, "You love what you do. You gotta love what you do." So yes, the secret ingredient, once again, as Marge Simpson once said, is salt. Sea salt.

Racks Italian Bistro and Market
Intracoastal Mall 163rd St and NE 36th Ave
N. Miami Beach, FL

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  1. You think they upped the ante against Anthony's?

    1. That's very high praise for a place that's been open - 24 hours?
      Is this the old Shooter's location? If so, about time something decent went in there.

      1 Reply
      1. re: Frodnesor

        I think the Water Club (opening soon) is going in the old Shooter's location.

      2. If it weren't so special, I wouldn't have bothered writing about it. What does the time open have to do with anything, anyway? La Cofradia re-opened and everyone's been on that pretty quickly. So in my mind, if there is an obvious commitment to the food, it deserves mention. Of course I have yet to try the rest of the menu, but the commitment to the pizza alone was pretty awe-inspiring (in a foodie kind of way, of course).
        There is also another restaurant going in on the other side of Racks. I think a steak place would be the obvious choice.
        As for Anthony's, I'm not sure how this will play out, but I believe that Racks is a little more expensive, and more in line with a Fratelli Lyon-type joint, with the imported salumi, etc. Anthony's is more of a kid-friendly joint, with good pizza, but a little more mass-produced.

        10 Replies
        1. re: Miami Danny

          I'm glad to hear it's good, just a little dubious about handing out superlatives based on an opening party. There's going to be lots of competition for best pizza with a lot of new places coming on-line. Per MenuPages, Sosta (from the Quattro folks) on Lincoln Road is opening tonight (despite mysterious reports already issued), and per UrbanDaddy, PizzaVolante (from Jonathan Eismann of Pacific Time) in the Design District is opening Wednesday.

          Apparently pizza is the new steak. And yet it's still impossible to find a banh mi in Miami. Why can't we catch up on this trend?

          MD - I noticed some peculiar similarities between the Racks menu and the Devito's menu ->

          Do you know if there's any kitchen connection?

          1. re: Frodnesor

            If you are referring to me and sosta about already issued reports, I have heard from people who went to the friends and family pre opening and said the pizza excellent. I just wanted to report that because quattro gets a bad rap here (deservedly so in my opinion). I did also state that there is a difference between cooking for friends and family and cooking for the public day in and day out, so I don't see what is so "mysterious" about any of it...One thing for sure, their prices look good.

            As for pizza being the new steak, I say bring it on. I think it will bring up the level of pizza in miami.

            1. re: tpigeon

              "As for pizza being the new steak, I say bring it on. I think it will bring up the level of pizza in miami."

              Yeah, and the prices...

              I still think Spris is the best in Miami for taste and money. Let the arguing begin...

              1. re: tpigeon

                You created quite a bit of mystery with that one. Forget pizza and steak. Give me banh mi.

                1. re: Frodnesor

                  I've made treks deep into Broward for banh mi. It's not that hard to make!!!! If we can press ham, pork, cheese and pickles into a sandwich we can sure as heck make banh mi. As for pizzas, like Spris, but prefer Piola (oh wait, maybe I'm thinking of hostesses).

                  1. re: Frodnesor

                    last time I asked for banh mi I got slapped in the face...

                2. re: Frodnesor

                  "I'm glad to hear it's good, just a little dubious about handing out superlatives based on an opening party."
                  Frod-Again La Cofradia comes to mind. A place where one has eaten lunch exactly once at the first lunch service after re-opening. Merits 800 words. Dubiously delightful.
                  And I'm not trying to predict the future, I'm just saying it may be the best right now.

                  1. re: Miami Danny

                    I handed out no ceviche superlatives. And the truth is Cofradia's really not a new restaurant. It's the same owners, the same chef, the same location, and really at least 50% the same menu but with the prices pulled back maybe 20%. And I've been back for happy hour.

                    I'm happy you're so excited about Racks - it makes me want to try it. I'll just pass on the "San Marzano gravy."

              2. Great that you have found the perfect pizza for you - definitely not great for me. I wonder how their meatball subs are?

                3 Replies
                1. re: rainroosty

                  Wow! Finally! Some real interaction! This board has been dead for weeks! Thank goodness!


                  1. re: rainroosty

                    If you are saying that great pizza and great meatball subs go hand in hand, then I wholeheartedly agree.

                    1. re: Miami Danny

                      You got that right. I wouldn't even think of doing business with a pizza joint if they didn't have the meatball parmigiana sub. :-)

                  2. Wow, I thought Racks should be renamed Racket for the lack of authentic Italian fare...that said, we didn't have pizza..we ordered Chicken Parm, got Veal instead (oops, said the clueless waitress--chicken, veal, it's all the same), Gnocchi with cheese, which had the consistency of golf balls and some Publix-grade (actually, Publix is better) prosciutto, sour mozzarella and provolone, all served separately on massive wooden planks---on which my husband remarked, 'what are they going to do, build a deck?'. Cheese and salumi served with nothing, no crackers, no bread. Just some syrupy, vile black olives. Bread we had to ask for was three slices of stale, cold something that may have resembled bread in its past life, served with yet another vile dipping sauce of tomato and oil. Chopped salad was doused in somethng that tasted like lemon pledge, clams were barely visible, the size of a small caper, buried underneath masses of breadcrumbs. The one good thing about the clams was the sauce. In between the cheese and salumi folly our waitress asked if we wanted to imbibe in the house specialty--a strawberry mojito. Because strawberry mojitos are exactly what one would have with chicken--excuse me, veal parmesan and rock solid gnocchi. Best of all, waitress made sure to tell us that everything we ate was available in their sub par deli. At that point, we just laughed, paid the bill and left, vowing never , ever to return.

                    3 Replies
                    1. re: HabaneroJane

                      Jane.......roflmao!.......I laughed out loud through your entire post! It's just funny! :-)

                      1. re: rainroosty

                        i actually didn't even take the time to write the part about when i asked the waitress what was in the gnocchi and she replied, "Cheese Pizza."

                        1. re: HabaneroJane

                          It's not even 5 a.m. and I'm laughing in my dark living room :-)