shops/markets/food experiences (in the 6th arrond.)
hi chowhounders,
hubby and i will be in paris for a repeat visit this fall. we're staying in an apartment in the 6th (on rue jacques callot). we're NOT looking for michelin starred dining experience. we are looking for local food shopping/eating experiences ... so far, on the list, i have:
- marche raspail
- marche st. germain (covered market)
- carton on rue buci (i think that's the bakery?)
- grande epicerie
- pierre herme
- christian constant (the chocolatier)
- cosi and fish
can you please tell me what else is in and around the 6th arrondisment that might be of interest ... we love markets, supermarkets, and trying new food. we're also looking for a fromagerie. oh, and i have a major weakness for pastries! :)
tks!
lilaki
You're not interested in fine dining but you have some pretty fancy shops in there. Which is only fair, since that's about all there is in the 6th, not really a working class/regular people arrondissement.
There's Gérard Mulot and Ladurée for sweets. There's Oteiza for pork and duck basque products on bd Saint Michel. There's Patrick Roger the genius of chocolate. There's Barthélémy, Phild's favourite cheese shop, and Dubois on Place Maubert is not that far. There's also a world class charcuterie on rue Dauphine whose name I can't remember right now and secret Viet on rue Christine that no one can talk about but read the board. On rue du Bac, Milcent and Kayser are two excellent bakeries.
Also, you should cross the river, since you're so close. Chez Denise is just across, as is Julien the baker. A bit further and you end up in the Montorgueil market (where I understand naked ladies are singing, judging from some Internet video I heard about).
Nice supermarkets will be harder to find in your area. Look for a Monoprix, they have good stuff.
You did not mention it, but fresh fish is always a difficult issue. Try La poissonerie du Dome, some day, and grab a bite at La Rotonde.
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As far as supermarkets go, La Grande Epicerie is the best you'll find in Paris, and right in the 6th (a little walk from your street, but not that long). Only problem, it's about 20% more expensive than other supermarkets. I don't know why I'm saying that as I see it's already on your list.
Add Da Rosa, rue de Seine for good, albeit pricey bellota ham and other delicious products (only place in Paris with Amedei chocolate AFAIK). The only reason to buy it here instead of taking the plane to Barcelona and go to Jamonissimo is that you'll want to reduce your carbon footprint (or is it that you don't have the time for that?)
And while you're at it, cross the street and buy a liter of ice cream at Grom, plus a cup to go, so that you don't get bored on your walk back home.
Still on rue de Seine, you've got Marcolini, the Belgian chocolatier. It's good, but I prefer the French ones.
There's also a wine shop I like to go to sometimes in the Marché St-Germain. It's called Bacchus & Ariane. It's a little bit skewed on the mid to upper scale, but they have good wines at reasonable prices.
A few steps from Christian Constant, on the rue d'Assas, there's Jean-Charles Rochoux, a former Michel Chaudun disciple. The latter is my favourite chocolatier in Paris (with Génin).
I've never actually entered Rochoux's shop, but apparently, he does the same "pavés" as his master, which are basically chocolate truffles shaped in cubes, but only way better than anything else you've tasted.
Even further, but still in the 6th (and remember, in Paris, you can walk easily from one spot to another), Verot has an excellent charcuterie on rue Notre Dame des Champs.
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At the Marche Raspail on Sunday mornings at the end of the market near the Hotel Lutecia there is a vendor which sells potato, cheese and onion galettes hot off the griddle. We buy one each ( @ 2.3 eruo) and stroll the market. Then we get another set for the walk back to our hotel.
We have gotten some nice reasonably priced wine at La Crémerie on Rue Quatre Vents (from Gerard Mulot, cross rue de Seine). Also there is La Derniere Goutte which is across Blvd St Germain at 6,Rue Bourbon Le Château. They are affiliated with the restaurant, Fish La Boissonnerie which is a nice place for Mediterrean cuisine. Also on rue de Seine. Have fun.
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hi folks,
WOW ... THANK YOU SO MUCH! this list is fantastic!
oh - and olivierb ... thanks for the suggestion re: Jamonissimo ... we're actually in barcelona for a few days before hitting paris!! :)
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I'm still dreaming of the pastry at Gerard Mulot.. Also, Poilane's bread is just as terrific.
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