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One perfect day of eating in Lyon: need suggestions!

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worldmatt May 12, 2009 10:55 AM

I'm going to be in Lyon for just one day at the beginning of June, and I'm trying to figure out where to have a fantastic breakfast, a wonderful lunch, and a mindblowing dinner, plus assorted snacks and drinks along the way. Would love to hear all of your thoughts and fantasies, keeping two things in mind:

1. It needs to be somewhat affordable. Dinner really can't be more than €30 per person, and lunch half that.
2. I have no car.

Ideas?

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  1. karookoos RE: worldmatt May 13, 2009 12:26 PM

    Lyon has lots of public transport, including bicycles, so no problem if you are without car. Go to the old city for breakfast, find the nicest terrace (with the nicest view) in the sun and have a tartine (baguette & butter) or croissant with coffee. Stay away from the fresh oj if you are on a budget - rather have some more coffee & pastry. For lunch, work your way towards Les Halles, the great food market of Lyon. There are many little restaurants in between the magnificent cheeses, charcuterie etc., but the nicest are the oyster counters. Here you can order a range of different oysters that they serve with tiny glasses of matched wines. Then buy some cheeses and whatever you fancy with fresh breads to snack on, knowing its the produce used by some of the best chefs in the world. I'm not much help for dinner - I normally stop there for lunch on the way to the South from Paris several times a year.

    2 Replies
    1. re: karookoos
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      worldmatt RE: karookoos May 17, 2009 08:57 AM

      Mm, sounds great! I can always do oyster counters. Know a cafe with particularly great coffee or pastries?

      Now I just have to figure out dinner...

      1. re: karookoos
        danna RE: karookoos Jun 24, 2009 06:49 AM

        Does one eat oysters in mid summer in France?

      2. ChefJune RE: worldmatt May 13, 2009 12:37 PM

        You can get a fantastic lunch just off the Place Bellecour at Le Giraudet. It's a small chain, but they make really excellent quenelles. You can get a bowl of their delicious soup and/or quenelles and a salad for around 11 euros. actually, the soup is less than that. You can also buy cans of the quenelles and sauce to bring home.

        I now have friends who are more likely to send me with money to bring back quenelles for them than foie gras!

        1. ChefJune RE: worldmatt Jun 24, 2009 11:53 AM

          some of the best food to be had in Lyon is at the Les Halles (covered) market near the Part-Dieu train station. For my palate, the most notable is the stall of Renee Richard, the famous affineur, who makes and/or ages some of the finest cheeses in all of France. Her St. Marcellin is my single favorite cheese of all time.

          3 Replies
          1. re: ChefJune
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            worldmatt RE: ChefJune Jul 16, 2009 10:27 AM

            Thanks for all the advice, Chowhounds! Here's the piece that resulted from this:

            http://frugaltraveler.blogs.nytimes.c...

            The one thing I didn't have space to include (besides some great oysters, €6.50 the half-dozen at Les Halles) was Bernachon, an amazing chocolate maker. Try the salted-caramel chocolate bars, €5.60 apiece. Mm!

            1. re: worldmatt
              ChefJune RE: worldmatt Jul 16, 2009 11:39 AM

              OMG! that was YOU!!!! ;D

              I'll have the truffles, thanks! ;)

              1. re: worldmatt
                m
                mr_gimlet RE: worldmatt Jul 17, 2009 05:37 AM

                great piece, thanks for posting! We stayed at the Simplon too.

            2. c
              chochotte RE: worldmatt Jul 17, 2009 01:10 AM

              L'Ourson qui boit! 23 rue Royale, three perfect courses for €25. (Or only €18 at lunch.) It has a very high reputation among locals, and is very small, so you have to book, but in terms of stunning, refined food at a good price it's one of the best places I've ever eaten at. I honestly don't know how they do it; you feel like you should be paying at least twice that. Probably cos they've not been open alllll that long. They could easily charge more and still be fully booked every night, so I recommend making the most of it now.

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