Abracadabra in Istanbul

[lkay3]

I'm going to Istanbul in a few days with some friends and am wondering if anyone has been to the restaurant Abracadabra? And, if so, whether it's worth seeking out?

Thanks in advance . . .

[antman]

Absolutely. I've been there several times and am more impressed every time. The chef, Dilara Erbay is really in a league of her own creating new and exciting meals with traditional Turkish references. We've followed her from her first place on French street which felt more like a experiment, then over to Cezayir which never seemed to give her the freedom to do what she was intended to do and now to Abracadabra where she is taking off. It's hard to talk about the menu because it changes so often. If at all possible sit in the kitchen and try to get Dilara's attention. She'll point you toward her latest interest. Alas the entrees are often less exciting than the starters but no matter, there's plenty to work with on the starter menu alone.
Anyway, here's a writeup that you may find useful.
http://istanbuleats.com/2009/04/abrac...

[fame da lupo]

Had a terrible experience at Abracadabra tonight. The problem mostly revolved around service, although the the food wasn’t particularly good either. The problem: my Muslim partner was served a dish with pork in it – spaghetti carbonara. While I am quite aware that carbonara traditionally comes with pork, in particular pancetta or guanciale, this is Turkey, so I expect a dish featuring pork to detail this on the menu, or at least be informed by the waiter when asked. The menu at Abracadabra has the title of the dish, and underneath highlights the ingredients. The carbonara entry states “Carbonara with water buffalo yogurt” – no mention of the meat component. So, naturally, we ask the waiter what the meat is – we ask whether it is sosis (sausage) and are told that it is indeed sosis. Sosis in Turkey, needless to say, is made of dana (beef). Instead of beef, we got pork bacon. My partner cannot eat it. We send the dish back. On leaving, I decided to talk to the woman at the front of the house about the issue. My point: the menu, or the waiter, ought to note that pork sausage is used, out of courtesy to their Turkish/Muslim clientele. The woman was defensive and quite patronizing, telling me that carbonara obviously has pork, just like puttanesca obviously has fish. The message: you guys are simply ignorant, it isn’t our fault. Well, having spent two years of my life in Italy (hell, my icon next to my name here is a sautee pan full of my carbonara!), I know that carbonara is eggs, guanciale/pancetta, and pecorino romano – not the yogurty, limp bacon pasta that they serve at Abracadabra. Ironic that the standoffish woman claimed to be an authority on carbonara, when their restaurant serves a version that is rubbish. Anyway, she refused to see my point of view, but wanted to escalate the discussion into a non-constructive argument, so I left. I’ve never encountered such an unprofessional staff member at any restaurant. Rather than take note of our concern, she decided to give me a lecture on Italian food.

[antman]

disappointing to hear that Abracadabra has taken a turn for the worse. It used to be a really good place. I've heard that the creator/chef Dilara Erbay isn't in the kitchen much anymore these days.
When Dilara first showed up, her interpretations of Turkish standards filled a gaping hole in the market. Very few restaurants strayed from absolutely traditional recipes. I am not huge fan of Thai meets Turk cuisine but the way she ramped up the same old meze selection felt new and exciting, for a time. I think a lot of people in Istanbul allowed Abracadabra a generous grace period because of loyalty to Dilara but that seems to have run out. It seems Abracadabra never got its act together. Bad service is never acceptable and it has always been spotty at best over there. Pity. Such a beautiful location.
Luckily, there are more people experimenting with Turkish cuisine these days. I recently had an excellent meal at Meze, a stylish but unpretentious new restaurant on Mesrutiyet Caddesi in Beyoglu (It is right across from the Pera Palas Hotel). All of the meze were recognizable in form but significantly better than what we've become accustomed to seeing on the big tray. Our waiter was careful but not smothering. He was knowledgeable about the food and when we asked some obscure food-obsessed question he went and found the answer in the kitchen. Overall, a very nice experience.