Le Calandre, a Report
- PBSF May 11, 2009 08:27 AM
A report on our recent lunch at Le Calandre. The restaurant is located in a small town of Sarmeola di Rubano, just outside of Padua. It has been in the Alajmo family for generations and evolved into a Michelin 3 star under the brother team of Raffaele and Massimiliano. The main restaurant is behind their less formal trattoria, Le Calandrino. The dining room, with about ten tables, is simply decorated, modern and comfortable. Since this was our third time and have had some of the dishes on the various tasting menus, we decided to order a la carte. The follow is what we had:
Antipasti: Cappuccino di seppie al nero
Primi: split an order of Risotto con rognoncini di vitello
Secondi: Piccione di Sante
Desserts: Cioccolato nocciola et caffe in tazza
The only disappointment was the Cappuccino di seppie. The bottom of a large glass tumbler was filled with warm bits of cuttlefish cooked in it’s ink and fish stock. Then it was topped with a layer of potato foam. The dish tasted good at first but soon became one-dimensional. A smaller portion or an addition of a third element would have helped.
Al Aimo (dedicated to the famous chef, Aimo Meroni in Milan) was a great combination of various diced tomatoes, cooked fava and green beans and puree of fava on a creamy sauce of freshest ricotta. Served with a couple of small sheets of carta da musica, the dish was light, flavorful and a terrific play on texture.
I think no one cooks risotto better than Chef Alajmo. The risotto with thinly slices of the smallest veal kidney and finished with a dusting of curry powder was no exception. The rice was flavorful, firm yet creamy and the aroma of curry powder was intoxicating. This was a split course but we probably got more than a half portion each but found it was just the right amount.
The roasted squab was served over two sauces, a rich creamy liver and a lightly acidic red beet. A diced of red beets, sauteed chicory and a little shredded ginger finished the plate. The squab was flavorful without tasting too gamey. The sweet and acidic beets set it off perfectly.
The suckling pig was cooked sous-vide and the skin crisped. The meat was mild and meltingly tender with just enough fat to make it luxurious. The crispy skin was a perfect counterpoint. It was served with a slightly spicy all'amatriciana sauce. The accompanied potato puree was food-milled then pushed through a fine sieve so that it was very light and smooth. It was better than the famous Robuchon version, lighter, less buttery with a more potato flavor. Underneath was a small amount of fresh chopped tomatoes.
The two desserts, recommended by our server, were outrageously good. The Cioccolato nocciola was layering of various flavored chocolates served in a tall tazza. The layers have a different consistency and temperature, from the bottom hazelnut ganach to the light mocha/coffee foam on top.
The Cannolo, a play on the classic Sicilian canoli, was simpler but just as good. Thin layers of slightly sweetened freshest and creamiest ricotta was sandwiched between the thinnest pastry squares. It was served over a bitter chocolate sauce and finished with red berry sauce thickened with a little gelatin. Some bites of the pastry was light and crunchy while the part that has a little ricotta cream soaked in was slightly chewy, a wonderful play on texture.
With various amuse, some very good bread (especially the addictive Parmesan crackers and thin grissini) and post dessert goodies, there was plenty of food.
We were the only guests for lunch on that day though their less formal Le Calandrino was bustling. We did not feel uncomfortable at all since the staff was so welcoming and our server had remembered us from a previous visit. Between courses, we had some very enjoyable conversations ranging from where the restaurant sources some of its product, the history of Le Calandre and the Alajmo family, on our annual monthly stay in Venice, the city of Padua.
Three things summarized our experiences with Le Calandre: Chef Alajmo sources the best ingredients; his cooking is innovative, deceptively simple and just about perfect; besides being very accommodating, the service always strikes the right balance of correctness and informality. After three visits, it has become one of our two or three favorite high-end restaurants.
Thanks for a very helpful report. We will be in Venice from May 26 to June 3. We are thinking of a day trip to Padua and I'm torn between trying to schedule lunch at Le Calandre or not in order to devote more time to sightseeing. We will get to Padua by train and I assume would need to take a taxi to the restaurant. Could you venture an estimate of the amount of time we'd need to budget to taxi to the restaurant, have lunch --probably the tasting menu--and taxi back to Padua for some sightseeing and a train trip back to Venice. Is this reasonable to try and do you think it would mean we'd really see very little of Padua. (We have no problem getting a very early train to maximize our time, provided that's possible)
Also if Le Calandre is one of your two or three high-end favorites, what are the others?
Thanks for any help you can give us. Given your experience I'm assuming that there shouldn't be a problem still getting a lunch reservation if we decide to dine there.
I think one can see the sights in Padua and lunch at Le Calandre in one day. Other than the must visit Cappella degli Scrovegni (must reserve as an earlier post stated), Padua is more of a city to stroll and enjoy the outdoor cafes in the central pedestrian part of the city. The markets at the Piazza deila Frutta and delle Erbe are worth a look for the architecture but it’s not the Rialto when it comes to food (except the deli). Also skip the "famous" Cafe Pedrocchi: tire, almost always empty and over-priced. If one boards a train from Santa Lucia at a civilized time (around 9 am), there should be a block of time before lunch and then time after to explore the city.
Our recent lunch at Le Calandre was 3 hours but it was very leisurely. On a previous visit, we took the large tasting menu at dinner and it was also around 3 hours, which allowed us to take a taxi to the train station to board the last train back to Venice. A taxi to the restaurant from the train station or central Padua takes about 10 minutes. On this trip, we took the public bus #10 that starts at the train station and down to the center then eventually stops in front of the restaurant. We decided it was easy and saved us 25E on the round trip. That took about 20 minutes.
Talking to the staff, lunch is usually not full except maybe on Fridays or Saturdays, therefore, you should not have any problem getting a reservation on short notice.
As for our favorite high-end restaurants, they are probably Pierre Gagnaire in Paris, El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, and Arzak in Donastia Spain. They are our favorites not because they serve the best food but for the overall experience. We’ve eaten in these places numerous times so we’ve come to understand the food and have developed a rapport with the staff. I would put Le Calandre on this category though we’ve only eaten there 3 times. Our last lunch there was just about perfect: great food; friendly, proper and not at all tuffy service; the ambience was relax in an understated way, without lots of bells and whistles, over the top that some high end restaurants can be. If I were to choose restaurants on just the food alone, they would be L’Ambroisie and L’Arpege in Paris, Michel Guerard in Eugenie-les-Bains and El Raco de Can Fabes, outside Barcelona. There are other restaurants that I love but many are based on one visit or that I haven't revisited in years; I don't feel that I can render a true opinion on those.
I hope the above is helpful.
sorry to take so long to get back on these very helpful responses.
Thank you very much. We leave for Venice on Monday and will make our decision when we get there, but it sounds like we really ought to get in gear and do this.
We spent better than half a day from our time in Barcelona to dine at El Raco Can Fabes and really found it worthwhile. I'm thinking this experience will be the be equalivalent. Again thanks for the responses.
- The original comment has been removed
Just lunched at Le Clandre this past Saturday. I'll avoid opening a new thread and just add my review to yours:
Event: Lunch at restaurant Le Calandre, Sarmeola di Rubano
When: Saturday, June 16th 2012 12:00
Michelin stars: 3
Type of cuisine: Haute Italian (Mix of Classic & Contemporary)
Addr: Via Liguria, 1 35030 Sarmeola di Rubano, Padova
Phone: 049 635200
Overall food performance: 8/10 I am forgiving the 'just ok' initial part of this meal, since the ending was so spectacular on this Saturday June 16th 2012 lunch.
Service: 10/10 A great balance between being professional and yet fun, charming. I find that 3 star Michelin standards of service, tranposed in an Italian context, adds a zest of appeal that I have hard time putting in words. Might be the magic of the gioia di vivere.
Overall Dining experience: 9/10 They do a lot to make the dining experience optimal: the decor, the choice of dinnerware , the modern ambience, the fun and playful interraction with the staff. It is amazing how they balance so well the formal (3 star Michelin standads of service and what goes along is respected and fully applied) with the casual (how fun..fun..fun..fun were those folks on this lunch! Amazing).
INTRO - This concludes an interesting journey of several days in Northern Italy (Lombardy, Veneto, and Liguria). Tiring to say the least, but this is Italy: a borderless ‘open-air candy store’ where everything is tempting. It is, as we all know, one of those rare countries where each parcel of land worths its weight in gold. This is not my first time in Italy, and everytime I visit this country, I regret of not having spent more time.
Gastronomy is, to me, as important as culture, history and architectures. Italy obviously offers plenty of those and this trip was the excuse to enjoy some great food as well as visiting as many historical vestiges as I could in such a short period of time. The dining part (((( I have always paid attention to Michelin starred ventures only in France. Just recently, in Germany. In Italy, I preferred traditional dining destinations of which my long time favourite has been Da Maria in Zanzo, Piemonte now in good company with my 'coup de coeur' of this gourmand week in Northern Italy : A cantina de Mananan in Corniglia - Cinque Terre . This is the first time that I am trying some Michelin star restaurants in Italy)))) of this journey is crazy: quick lunch at 2 star Michelin Trussardi alla Scala in Milan on Wednesday, a big lunch at 3 star Michelin Dal Pescatore in Canneto sull'Oglio on Thursday, a dinner at the iconic 2 star Michelin Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia in Milan on Friday, and finally this Saturday's lunch at Le Calandre (for those who may ask: I never review restaurant meals when I am eating with other ppl since I personally find it mannerless to take notes of my meal in such occurence, the only exception is when I dine with my wife since she is supportive of my ideal of knowledge sharing ) . It is absurd to enjoy as many meals in seven days, alongside so many places to visit, but absolutely understandable given the circumstances. I only regret to have missed a dinner at 3 star Osteria Francescana that some of my foodie friends have invited me to partake in. Alas I was just too exhausted and could not make it to Modena.
I came here to Le Calandre because I heard that Chef Massimiliano Alajmo was mastering, to a level that outstands what is usually found at most tables pertaining to this caliber of dining, the aspect of food that I favor the most: unveiling what's left to be discovered from traditional cuisine. He (Chef Alajmo) is doing it with a fresh new (modern) approach, though: from what I gathered, the cooking techniques are mostly modern, but the intent is to push traditional fares to their contemporary revised versions. In a world where there is a lot of babbling about classic cuisine being boring, you would think that trendy modern cooking would bring the supposedly exciting palatable emotions that comes along, but years after the rise of those novel cooking trends, few modernist Chefs are really capable of offering the true excitement that pertains to the splendid impact that classic food can unleash in skilled hands (the Spaniards remain among the very few whose depth of modern cooking creativity can indeed rise at palatable heights of the fabulous taste of the kind of successful classic cooking that I am praising). So many people are lured by the superficial aspect of food that they can’t even make a difference between an average, above average, superior or excellent straightforward food item such a soup or a tartare. You get the idea: I pushed opened the door to Chef Alajmo's dining room expecting classic food's inspired creations to be brought to their glory.
Chef Alajmo was the youngest Chef to have been awarded three Michelin stars for his creations at his restaurant Le Calandre (he still holds those since 2002). He started with some studies in restaurant management, which obviously explains his great business sense with several restaurants, a food store, books, and plenty of other entrepreneurship ideas you will not fail to notice on his web site. Before taking over the kitchen at Le Calandre (a family affair, his mum was the previous Chef there), he worked for several Italian restaurants (for ie, Ja Navalge in Moena) as well as a relatively brief presence alongside France's star Michelin Chefs Michel Guerard (perhaps the focus on light food that I sensed on most of the dishes during this meal came from here) and Marc Veyrat (It would be interesting that a journalist ask him a bit more about what he thinks of Veyrat and what he learned from that phase - I have always been curious about Veyrat and regret to have never been able to sample his modernist creations when he was actively behind the stoves. I do not know Veyrat so it was impossible for me to identify any Veyrat's influences all along the meal I was sampling at Le Calandre). Despite his young age, Chef Alajmo has been a mentor to many successful Italian Chefs such as Chef Stefano Merlo (Rossini's in Bangkok) or Relais Galu's Sergio Preziosa. In 2012, Chef Alajmo's Le Calandre restaurant features in Restaurant Magazine top 50 best restaurants of the globe.
The restaurant Le Calandre is situated in Sarmeola di Rubano, at approx 6 kms away from the city of Padova, less than 50 kms away from Venezzia. The restaurant itself is inside the family's restaurant/hotel building (They have another of their numerous restaurants in that building: Il Calandrino). The inside decor is contemporary minimalist- chic with tones of black and grey, no tablecloth on the tables. The room itself has elements of great artistic value such as the tables made of a century-old type of ash-oak tree wood as well as dinnerware/Italian hand blown crystal glassware worth of prime attention (they seem to pride themselves for putting lots of thoughts and care in this aspect of the dining experience; as an ie many restaurants have famous sommeliers who serve great wines and yet you look at the size or shape of some of their wine glasses and have quibbles to raise. At le Calandre, even such detail is not overlooked as clearly demonstrated by glasses designed for optimal flow of the wine onto your palate) . It would be interesting to incorporate some ideas of a great Venetian achitect like Carlo Scarpa in that contemporary interior.
Wine list: Over a thousand of wines, catering to all budgets, presented on an electronic display device (Ipad). Needless to describe that wine list since you can peruse it online (I found it very practical to have the wine list on the web). They do also, I am pretty sure, have more gems that do not necessarily feature on that online list. On this lunch, they initially served some glasses of Bruno Paillard Brut Assemblage 1999, then followed by some choices of wine by the glass that I appreciated a lot (I chose the default wine pairing to the ingredienti tasting menu). The highlight of this wine pairing was, for me, the 2007 Domaine Vincent Girardin Meursault Les Narvaux.
On with the FOOD:
Vegetable salad comprising of marinated beets, boiled carrots, sunflower cream, celery, tomatoes. The idea was to present the veggies in various textures (crunchy, dried, boiled, marinated, etc) and temperatures with layers of different piquant flavors (gingery, and dijon mustard in this case). Playful and interesting although I wished that some ingredients of this dish would have left a higher palatable impact as so oftenly expressed by ingredients in the Mediterranea (especially the tomatoes and the beets) 7.5/10
Next was cream of tomato/marinated and sauteed aubergine, fresh basil (Sorry for having taken the picture after sampling the food). The tomato part was essentially a take on the idea of a gazpacho. Top quality Sardinian Paue Carasau tomato featured on this dish. Refreshing with an interesting use of complimentary ingredients. 7/10
Followed by Ricciola raw fish carpaccio and a tartare of seafood and red meat. Lemon cream bringing the needed balance of acidity to the seafood, caviar adding extra textural dimension and cabbage was served alongside those ingredients. Good 7/10
Then linguine (spelt linguine), black truffle, scallops, cuttlefish cream - the overall dish was properly cooked, had good flavors and was prettily presented on stone support.
Most of the dishes served to that point were paired with a fabulous Meursault Les Narvaux 2007 (Domaine Vincent Girardin).
Next was Rose risotto/peach/ginger. Chef Alajmo oftenly came in the dining room, exchanging with his customers, and he explained to me that this is his reference to Italian renaissance art. A great idea indeed, playful, creative and this was certainly a good risotto with rice achieved at ideal bite, the cheese counterpoint matching really well with the aromas of the rose, ginger and peach flavors adding to the complexity of the dish in a perfectly well balanced way. Very good. 8/10
Followed by veal cutlet and sweetbreads/curry sauce - The veal being of prime quality, the curry sauce thickened ideally and tasting good. On the side, a classically made fresh green salad. 7/10
Then lamb chops served with a roll of cabbage. Nice acidity coming from that roll of cabbage. Good 7/10 (this was paired with a glass of Il Poggione San Leopoldo 2004, an interesting blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, barrel-aged for 12 months in French oak, and that expressed superb structure and long enjoyable fruity finish of dark berries.
Whereas the previous dishes were certainly all well executed, I found them to be a bit short on sparks. Still, the overall experience itself (with the fun and yet professional service, the charming ambience, the way they go above and beyond to make every little moment as memorable as it can be) was so fantastic that nothing was going to alter my high appreciation of their work. Well, it is as if they did not want me to leave with the impression that the kitchen could not deliver. The proof: a big surprise would follow next, and it would come from the kitchen ->
They suggested that I move to a different room, where I'd be alone to enjoy the dessert phase of my tasting menu. That phase is untitled 'Game of Chocolate 2012'. In the room, some music is played with the sole intent to connect memories
of the basics of life's evolution with different items of an array of mini desserts. Now, while the previous dishes varied in between 7 to 8/10 in my personal assessment, I was now in a completely different arithmetic logic (which in my case is just an extra effort to convey, in the best constructive way possible, the emotions and palatable impact brought to me by a dish). Interestingly, here's what was written on a little piece of paper that I had to read prior to indulge in what was going to stand as the spectacular finale of this meal: """In & Out choco game 2012 is something that we have all experienced before from our first heartbeats (IN) to our entrance into the world (OUT). During this passage, there is a moment of darkness that suddenly turns into pure light. IN & OUT is a simple expression of a large message". Rfaol, upon reading that note, I said to myself "That is it, I got it now...Lol..the darkness was the first part of the meal (just kidding. The 1st part of the meal was no darkness at all) and now I was going to partake in the "pure light" phase of the meal. Laughs. Joke aside, this part was simply spectacular with an array of mini desserts that kept the bar of palatable excitement to memorable heights. I'll let the numbers convey how of an awe-inspiring level the choco game 2012 phase was: a delicious shot of dark choco was a benchmark of its kind (10/10), vanilla topped with a milky concoction of their own had my tongue leaving my mouth and start dancing in the room, Rfaol - It was that spectacular in mouth! A 10/10 for that vanilla/milk mixture. Then a shot of ginger/peach (10/10), some benchmark choco truffles (10.10), a shot of cold expresso with dulce di lecce underneath (10/10), a cracker with impossibly perfect sweet goat cheese in between (9/10), an impressive citrus flavored lollipop with white choco and pineapple (a Blast! 10/10 ), an exciting shot of their own take on pina colada and it went on and on with creative and exciting mini creations of that sort, but of world class perfection and palatable impact worth of superlatives.
A fantastic end to a meal that started on less impressive grounds.
PROS: The spectacular ending to this meal (fabulous flavors brought to surprising palatable heights in each bite of that memorable choco Game 2012 mise en scène) ...
CONS: ...had that same amazement being expressed towards the first part of this repast, the entire meal would have been an epic culinary achievement. Regardless, this was still a very enjoyable experience and where many fail to seduce their customers, Le Calandre is succeeding at being a charm.
I very much enjoyed experiencing this meal through your account and also your perspective. Interesting that the best was the dessert - Im glad it was wonderful but think its a serious weakness of the meal that you had to wade through so many savory courses before being wowed.
Hope we'll hear about some of your other meals.
Italian fine dining restaurants tend to be quietly under the radar, with the exception of Osteria Francescana where its charismatic chef and the media successfully creating buzz that helped the publicity of Italian cuisine. 2006 was the year I began my gastronomy trip in Europe and Le Calandre was one of a few restaurants I happened to visit. Like many other 3-star places in Italy, Calandre was situated in a small and unassuming town of Rubano, not too far from Padua. I instantly fell in love with that place though the not-so-strategic location has prevented me from returning there until Nov last year. My spouse would really love to visit the floating city of Venice. It should always be romantic there and November would be quiet, so I managed to squeeze time out of Venezia to re-visit (lunch) the most beloved restaurant of the Alajmo’s brothers.
Le Calandre’s address was still the same but the interior tremendously changed. It became very dark (the restaurant covered up the natural light) with spot/low lighting directed at each of the 8 big circular tables uniformly cut from the same 180-year-old ash tree. The table had a dip in the centre to hold bread basket. There was no more the typical Michelin white cloth. The decor was still stylish and elegant, but without any extravagant feeling. The unique and specifically designed tableware and glassware were still available. The restaurant introduced “Carpe diem” concept in which guests who were certain to order one of the 3 tasting menus could do advanced payment and received 15+ % discount. We took advantage for the offering and this time I ordered the ‘longer’ version of the Autumn seasonal menu. Even after the discount, Calandre appeared to be more expensive than the other 3-star Michelin establishments in Italy but they really gave lots of food. I had to request for a break just before the meat course, which hardly happened for my usual appetite.
After some bread, snacks and amuse (involved plenty of cheese), then come the courses from the Fall degustation menu below,
-small and sweet sea scallop was in harmony with the apple agretto acidity and celery meringue delicate flavor
-flavorful langoustine & squid were wrapped by velvety raw piemontese beef; this dish was served with lobster cream/mayo, vegetable salad and caviar
-one of my best dishes was fresh burrata having buttery flavor. Under the burrata, there were fish and clams that were complemented by delicious salty & fragrant squid ink – simple and delicious
Good antipasti then followed by pasta & risotto
-an innovative creation of tarragon pasta with flavorful pistachio sauce, snails, octopus and herbs served in a copper pan. The smart part: the pasta was not the star and acted more as a rich emulsion
-wheat linguine was prepared slightly too “al dente” for my taste. The ‘dressing’ was quite interesting, made of pine nut, pumpkin and beef stock producing intense flavor – not bad
-in Autumn, the risotto dish was served with chicken stock jelly, subtle colatura di alici and shaved Alba truffle. It was creamy & rich yet not heavy with the rice having perfect texture with slight saltiness. Very good and a bit more superior to similar dish served at dal Pescatore
-as the first timer, the kitchen gave my spouse the classic version: risotto, cooked perfectly, with saffron and liquorice. It’s still the finest risotto in the world, even better than the one above. The saffron and licorice powder gave balance of sweet & bitter flavor, while the added parmesan was delightful
Delightful primi. Now it’s time for the secondi (seafood and meats)
-seared fresh & top quality of succulent lobster served with smooth no-cream sauce (made from sea urchin and crab) as well as meaty & earthy mushroom. A sublime dish and love it very much
-juicy, thinly cut and flavorful lamb was prepared ‘alla Milanese’. This beautiful meat was accompanied by aromatic almond & herb, fresh salad and red beets
-lastly, tender & gamey baby squab in tasty ‘rustic’ sauce was served with cabbage, mango and sauteed peppers – enjoyable and luckily in small portion
For the dolci, the restaurant prepared:
-truffled egg, another Autumn specialty. It consisted of egg white, white chocolate, white truffle and vanilla ice cream. It was decadent as long as the truffle’s distinct smell and taste was still there. Without it, it became rather monotonous, sweet and (very) eggy
-my wife had Calandre’s new dessert called pollen. It’s a show contrast in temperature, flavor and texture. There were several elements inside such as elderflower gelato, pistachio, ginger granita and mango
-to close, each of us got a portion of Massi’s interpretation of Tiramisu, served in a specific designed glass. We got to zip through to savor the chocolate, coffee, and mascarpone flavors – clever and stunning
A remarkable “symphony” by a gifted Italian (kitchen) maestro. Chef Alajmo’s versatility has enabled him to create high quality classical and contemporary Italian dishes with ease. No wonder that he became the youngest chef ever to have received Michelin’s 3-star award in 2002. For this meal, I had 3 glasses of wine: 2 whites (2013 Niedrist Riesling and 2011 Monte lessini from Veneto) and 1 red (2009 Corto chianti) to be precise. The restaurant was very quiet; only 2 tables were filled, comprising of exactly 7 people. Massi Alajmo came to the dining room a couple of times and he likes to engage and listen to guests’ comments. He sincerely (still) wanted to be better and ensured diners’ satisfaction all the times. The Alajmo brothers had a few restaurants nowadays and this “forced” the older Alajmo, Raffaele to travel around and unable to stay put at Calandre anymore. The current restaurant manager named Andrea Calzavara who was friendly but he only met guests at the beginning and the end of the meal. In between, 1 waiter and 1 junior sommelier served all the 2 tables. They did a decent job by delivering good service in a professional but relaxed manner. We were pleased although I admitted it was not as polished as when Raffaele still lead the FOH. All in all, it was an incredible experience especially the quality of the food – I bestowed 97 pts meaning (in my notes) it’s the only restaurant serving Italian cuisine that deserved to be at the 3-star level without any reservation. Given Massi Alajmo’s talents and seasonal cuisine, a return to Calandre is necessary should I find myself around the Veneto region.