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April in Paris: a week's eating fest

4seasons May 5, 2009 02:08 PM

Just returned from Paris last week (mid-April) and would like to share my (gustatory) experiences; many of the restaurants/shops visited were based on David Lebovitz's/chowhound recs so I owe feedback:

macarons/pastry shop: Gerard Mulot/Le Pain du Sucre
chocolate: Pierre Marcolini
outdoor food market: Richard Lenoir, the bustle of Sunday shopping - vendor from
interesting/archiac food stores: Izrael Spices and Detou
cheese: Barthlemy and outdoor market in Raspail
restaurants (here we go in descending order):
Intineraires (new w/imaginative takes on the classics; great)
La Ferrandaise (robust, flavorful home-style cooking)
Mon Vieil Ami (lovely food & professional air, and open for Sunday dinner!)
L'Affriole (creative, fresh-tasting)
Le Relais de Isle (delightful lunch fused with jazz on Ile de St Louis)
Chez Dumonet (neighborhood, best cassoulet ever managed to finish)
Regis Huitres (fun cocktail of oysters & Sancerre)
Cheapest, best wine store: Caves Bardou (Faubourg st. Denis)

L'Os a la Moelle (worst dinner anywhere)
Bistrot Paul Bert (highly lauded in English guidebooks,rude management who seem to detest the Americans who find themselves there (my E15 change from the addition was kept by the arrogant patron)
L'Atlas (very tired Moroccan cooking; sad surroundings)
Dehillerin (steep prices for tourists- could pretty much buy anything there in NY for a lot less!)
Goumanyat (nothing special packaged spices at crazy prices)

wonderful concerts of baroque & medieval music in small churches, string quartet playing in Sainte Chapelle as dusk turned into night
a post-Lent parade by costumed children down the streets of Montorgeuil
discovered a little 'hood regional place, Le Bistro Gourmand, on Depuis, near Temple, with the best tart tatin EVER

Serendipty: always, everday, unforgettable encounters with people & places