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Hungarian Pastry (split from General Topics)

d
Diane in Bexley May 5, 2009 08:47 AM

This definitely sounds like what my Hungarian Jewish Grandma & Mother used to make (and me too). We make version with 3 filling options (walnut (dios), poppyseed (makos) and chocolate. Please appreciate I had to wrest this recipe out of Mom & Grandma:

Dough -
6 cups AP flour
2 pky dry yeast
4 sticks butter (usalted)
1 cup whole milk
3 eggs

In very large bowl, put 6 cups flour. Grate butter with 4 sided grated into flour, then either using 2 knives or tool, mix butter into flour as for pie or pastry. Heat milk to 110F, add yeast, let proof for 10 minutes. If mixture doesn't foam, throw out and start over (this means your yeast is DEAD). Add 3 well beaten eggs to yeast mixture. Make well in large bowl of flour/butter mixture, add eggs. Blend thoroughly until dough comes clean from bowl. You can do this in mixer using dough hook as well. Cover bowl with plastic wrap, refrigerate overnight or at least 8 hours. When ready to use, remove from fridge, divide into 3 parts. Roll out dough into rectangle 1/4 in thick, spread with filling. Roll up dough like pinwheel and place on buttered half sheet pan. Prick with fork all over and brush with beaten egg yolk mixed with drop of water. Bake 1 hour at 350F until golden brown. Let cool thoroughly before slicing in 1 in slices. Freezes very well, cover whole roll with h/d alum foil.

Filling #1 Nut
12 oz walnuts
1.5 cups sugar
1.5 cups raisins
1 lemon, juice and grated rind

Put all filling ingredients in sauce pan, mix well. Heat on low until sugar melts. Cool before using.

Filling #2 - Poppyseed
Can of Solo Poppyseed filling
couple drops brandy, cognac or liquer of your choice

Mix together and spread over dough.

Filling #3 - Chocolate
Package of Baker's unsweetened chocolate
1 cup sugar or to taste
couple drops espresso or very strong coffee
6 oz semi sweet choc chips

Over low heat or in M/W, melt Baker's chos, sugar & coffee. Spread over dough. Sprinkle choc chips on top.

  1. n
    Nyleve May 5, 2009 10:28 AM

    Yikes! Hello memory lane! Thank you for the reminder. My mother made the very same thing except - and this is a big except - she used a cream cheese pastry dough instead of your yeast one. It was obviously a different sort of pastry, but the fillings are absolutely spot-on. Occasionally, she would spread apricot jam over the dough before sprinkling with the dios filling. Makos was, as you described, something you bought ready made since it requires a special kind of grinder for the poppy seeds.

    Very nice. Thanks, Diane in Bexley!

    1 Reply
    1. re: Nyleve
      d
      Diane in Bexley May 5, 2009 01:35 PM

      Ny, the Solo poppyseed filling was actually a compromise for Mom. She had a wonderful food grinder and would grind the whole poppyseeds and make the filling from scratch. I remember her doing this on many an occasion. However, like many innovations, the invention of Solo filling came about and she gave away her grinder. She also gave away her grinder for chopped liver (argh!).

      The apricot jam is spot on! She also would use raspberry jam for the makos. Thanks for reminding me that part. It is not included in her hand written recipe, it is the "little secret" she left out.

      Mom did use a cream cheese dough, which she filled with dios filling and shaped them into crescents. I believe these were called kiefle? Sort of like ruglach.

    2. d
      Diane in Bexley May 5, 2009 01:39 PM

      NOTE TO EDITORS: since you split this off from the oriignal post, can you please change the Poppyseed Kindle to Hungarian Pastry? Kindle is not Hungarian, not sure what nationality. We called our rolls tészta, which means pastry in Hungarian. Thanks!

      2 Replies
      1. re: Diane in Bexley
        b
        BTRAVIS Apr 27, 2010 06:59 PM

        My mother was a Hungarian Jew & always referred to this pastry as "Kindle"

        1. re: Diane in Bexley
          w
          wildough57 Dec 24, 2010 01:00 PM

          Gotta go with BTravis on this. My Hungarian/Jewish grandmother also called it Kindle or Kindley. Hers was not a yeast dough, more like a American pie dough (as opposed to clunky French tart dough) which gave it a delicate flakey character.

        2. jfood May 5, 2009 02:45 PM

          Thanks DB...now this will appear on the MyChow page and jfood can get at it when he is back home.

          The Chocalte seems to be the path to pleasure at Casa Jfood.

          1. d
            Diane in Bexley May 6, 2009 12:24 PM

            I knew there must be a Hungarian name for this pastry, I looked up Hungarian Food on Wikipedia and the link below along with the picture confirms this is it. Naturally, this was served on Jewish holidays at our house, but much more often during the year as well. The advent of freezing baked goods enabled my mother to reap much product from her efforts and we profited from it.

            The web site claims only nuts & poppyseed exist in Hungary. Pretty sure Mom invented the chocolate or American invention.

            http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bejgli

            35 Replies
            1. re: Diane in Bexley
              n
              Nyleve May 6, 2009 05:27 PM

              My mother absolutely never called it beigli. It doesn't even sound like a Hungarian name. Polish, maybe, but not Hungarian. Definitely called it teszta - maybe something more specific than that, though. I might call my aunt...

              1. re: Nyleve
                m
                maisonbistro May 6, 2009 07:37 PM

                Nope, not polish.

                1. re: Nyleve
                  d
                  Diane in Bexley May 7, 2009 05:52 AM

                  Please let me know if you find out the correct name. We always called it teszta, but when I went to a Hungarian bakery in Cleveland and asked for it, they looked at me like I was nuts.

                  1. re: Diane in Bexley
                    JoanN May 7, 2009 06:42 AM

                    I don't remember any Hungarian and unfortunately there's no one left in my family who does that I could ask. But I've been looking in Lang's "The Cusine of Hungary." First, I wonder if "teszta" doesn't mean "dough" rather than "pastry." He has two recipes using that word, one for a dough for noodles and the other a dough for encasing a carp fillet. The only ingredients the two recipes have in common are flour and egg.

                    Lang has a pastry recipe very similar to the one you posted, right down to refrigerating the dough. The master recipe calls for a poppyseed filling. In English he calls it "Pozsonyi Roulade Filled with Poppyseeds." In Hungarian he calls it "Pozsonyi mákos tekercs (Beigli)."

                    1. re: JoanN
                      n
                      Nyleve May 7, 2009 06:59 AM

                      Teszta does, really, refer to anything made with dough. Which would include noodles or pastries. Turos teszta, for instance, could be either noodles with cheese or a cheese pastry. My memory may be failing me on that - but that's what I think I remember. (Hungarian is a bizarre, impossible language.) I also remember particular pastries called kindli (maybe what you originally referred to as "kindle". But the "li" ending on the word might just be a diminutive - of which Hungarians are especially fond. I'm going to do some research and get back to you all on this extremely urgent subject.

                      1. re: JoanN
                        PattiCakes May 7, 2009 06:59 AM

                        I will try this to eat for dessert when I make the kolbaz and hurka I have sitting in my freezer.

                        1. re: PattiCakes
                          n
                          Nyleve May 7, 2009 07:00 AM

                          You have hurka! Yoy!

                          1. re: Nyleve
                            PattiCakes May 7, 2009 07:12 AM

                            na na na na na na. I am fortunate to have a dear friend whose mother is Hungarian. She belongs to a church with an aging Hungarian population. Every year they used to have a kolbaz & hurka supper, with the sausaged home-made by the members of the church. They are too old now to manage the kobaz themselves(they had over 900 pounds this year), so a local butcher does it for them, using their recipe. They still do the hurka. The dinner is now every other year, but we still go. We also pre-order packages of the meat to freeze at home.

                            When my friend's grown children have their annual picnic, they set up a campfire & all of the fixings for solina (?) -- the pork fat dripping on chunks of bread, with radishes, cucumbers and the like. When her daughter got married, the wedding favors for the guests were little packages of imported Hungarian paprika, along with her grandmothers recipe for paprikash. I love it when the younger generations try to keep their heritage alive!

                            1. re: PattiCakes
                              The Professor May 7, 2009 07:36 AM

                              Amen to keeping the heritage alive. For a few years in the early '80's I lived next door to the Hungarian church of my youth. Soon after moving into the rental house , I discovered that on the second Saturday of every month a few of the older men in the church got together to make Kolbasz for sale to the congregation. Those Saturdays are a treasured memory...I was the "new kid" on the block (even though the old guys knew me from infanthood since my father was a church elder) and they embraced my interest in learning the Kolbasz making process and welcomed my help. It was a monthly social event...a Saturday morning of grinding meat, rinsing casings, frying up teperto and pecsenye, stuffing a few hundred pounds of sausage, and drinking _quite_ a bit of beer during the process. And a great learning experience.
                              I still make a batch of Kolbasz every other month or so, and one day soon will tackle my Grandma's recipe for home made Hurka.

                              1. re: The Professor
                                PattiCakes May 7, 2009 08:33 AM

                                That story made my day, and I will share it with my friend's Hungarian mother when I see her in a few weeks.

                                1. re: The Professor
                                  n
                                  Nyleve May 7, 2009 11:30 AM

                                  You really have to stop. Teperto? Pecsenye? I'm dying here.

                                  My family was kosher so, alas, no salona when I was growing up. But teperto? Are you kidding? I sill love it.

                                  1. re: Nyleve
                                    PattiCakes May 7, 2009 12:02 PM

                                    Now you've got to explain. Teperto? Pecsenye? I am not Hungarian, only frieds with a Hungarian. (grin) I have, however, tried Unicum. not my cup of tequila.

                                    1. re: PattiCakes
                                      n
                                      Nyleve May 7, 2009 01:32 PM

                                      Teperto is chicken, duck or goose skin fried to render out the fat. Incredibly fantastic deliciousness - a seriously guilty pleasure. My mother used to do this every time she cut the excess skin off a chicken before cooking. With a sprinkle of salt it's perfection.

                                      Pecsenye is almost as bad. It's the dripping at the bottom of a roasting pan - usually chicken in our house. You take a slice of fresh bread and soak it in the drippings (the pecsenye zsír - fat) and eat it. My father used to accompany this with a slice of raw onion. But then again, he accompanied everything with a slice of raw onion.

                                      Unicum - feh! Who needs it?

                                      1. re: Nyleve
                                        PattiCakes May 7, 2009 02:40 PM

                                        oy. May I join the Hunky club? I have been known to steal all the chicken skin from the roast chicken, and the drippings? The best. The Pennsylvania Dutch (father's side) must not be too far removed from Hungarians. Then again, my mother was Russian. I have come by my cholesterol honestly.

                                        My Hungarian friend's husband is a recovering alcoholic -- He jokes about the fact that he went on the program after they brought a bottle of Unicum back from Hungary. It is vile.

                                        1. re: PattiCakes
                                          The Professor May 7, 2009 04:47 PM

                                          Well, it's al a matter of perspective. I really LIKE Unicum, though I do suppose it is an acquired taste.
                                          Unfortunately, it seems that the stuff they sell in the US in the distinctive round bottle (which they now label as 'Zwack') is now a toned down version of the real Unicum...milder and somewhat sweeter. Don't like that one as much.

                                        2. re: Nyleve
                                          DockPotato May 8, 2009 02:15 AM

                                          Our family refers to the roll as "beigli" but more often simply as "makos" or "dijos." The recipe omits one important step. Before placing the roll into the oven a wash of egg yolk was brushed on. This was done with a "talu" (feather) which I'm sure dredges up memories for many. A talu was a pastry brush made from chicken feathers. I remember my grandfather trimming quills at the kitchen table and weaving bundles of them into brushes for my grandmother.

                                          I associate "pecsenye" with fried chops. "Teperto" as I know it is pork crackling resulting from rendering lard and right now I'm craving a "tepertos pogasc" - a savoury yeast bun loaded with pork cracklings.

                                          1. re: DockPotato
                                            d
                                            Diane in Bexley May 8, 2009 06:41 AM

                                            Dock, my recipe does call for brushing with egg yolk before baking. Actually, I remember my grandmother making a feather baster with chicken feathers. We used to get fresh eggs/chicken delivered weekly from a man who drove to us from the countryside, he would bring feathers. As we kept kosher, he was not Jewish, but a trained shohect (ritual slaughter). I also remember a delicacy of unborn eggs, or something like that. We got a lot of double yolks.

                                            1. re: Diane in Bexley
                                              JoanN May 8, 2009 07:26 AM

                                              Oh my goodness you’re bringing back memories. I couldn’t have been more than three or four when I’d go with my grandmother to the kosher poultry shop where she’d pick out a live chicken and they would kill and clean it for her. She always asked for the largest feathers so grandpa could make pastry brushes. The brushes were most often used by the housekeeper, brought by my grandparents from a small village near Debrecen, when making strudel. I’m still in awe of how thinly she could stretch that dough with the back of her hands until it covered almost the entire dining table—a table that could seat 10 without the extensions. Very little in the kitchen intimidates me, but I’ve never had the courage, or the space for that matter, to attempt strudel.

                                              1. re: JoanN
                                                d
                                                Diane in Bexley May 8, 2009 10:32 AM

                                                Joan, the strudel! I have strudel envy, no possible way I could take a small ball of dough and stretch it over the kitchen table. Mom & Granma had long fingernails (went for manicures every week) and I could never figure out how they did it. Finally, I watched and watched - they didn't use the tops of their hands, they did it with their knuckles! I have to buy filo dough and make ersatz strudel. Their rolls were so high and so long, they had to be shaped into a horseshoe to fit on the oiled 1/2 sheet pan.

                                                We had a sour cherry tree in our yard and my brother and I had to climb up and pick the cherries before the birds got them. They cured(?) them in brandy in large canning jars in the basement. In the fall and winter we had apple strudel. Once in a while they made cabbage strudel, a savory side dish, for a special occasion.

                                                Jews don't really believe in the AfterLife, but if there is, I want to go back to the kitchen in our first house (a small bungalow) with my Mom & Grandma. It will always be just before a holiday (Rosh Hashonnha, Succot, Passover, Shavuot) and we will be preparing the traditional food. The smells, the tastes, the fun!

                                              2. re: Diane in Bexley
                                                DockPotato May 8, 2009 04:13 PM

                                                Apologies Dianne, I missed the egg yolks.

                                                Nyleve, you are familiar with Toronto so you must be familiar with Fortune hardware on Spadina below College, the place that imported so many Central European items - I used to buy them there. The last time I visited, a few years ago, the new Vietnamese owners still had a stock of European goods on the north side of the shop and Asian goods on the other. Is Fortune still there, and if so what's it doing?

                                                Anyone familiar with these brushes knows that they are perfect. Anything else feels like a wire brush. Like a pure sable brush, they hold and release their liquid precisely.

                                                As to "unborn eggs" what egg isn't? (pardon). Yes, our chickens arrived in a writhing, clucking, gunny bag. The next day our 3 families would each have a chicken in the fridge. There was often a glass of water with loose, "unborn" eggs. My mother, aunt and grandmother each nodded sagely and said, "That's the best for baking" which generally prompted Beigli and that fires another memory as to the name.

                                                The word "Beigli" was/is used to refer to the OP's pastry. "Makos" and "dijos" also refer to the pastry by strong inference.

                                                The dough mixture used for the pastry is the same as used for "kolacs"(sp?) which is a Hungarian egg bread. Recipes vary as mentioned in this thread.

                                                "Toltott kolacs" is the other proper name - stuffed egg bread.

                                                1. re: DockPotato
                                                  n
                                                  Nyleve May 9, 2009 06:58 AM

                                                  Sadly, Fortune Housewares is no more. Over 30 years ago, before I was married, I lived in the neighbourhood and bought all my kitchen stuff from them. I loved that place and still dropped whenever I was shopping in Kensington.

                                                  And yes, we had the unborn eggs also (I think my mother called them"eggies"). I never thought about how weird they were until I grew up and discovered that most people found the whole idea gross. I loved them. I'm sure you can still get them somewhere.

                                    2. re: PattiCakes
                                      m
                                      maisonbistro May 7, 2009 05:51 PM

                                      PattiCakes - I have been searching for years for a recipe for a particular Hungarian dessert called ludlab. It is a kind of pastry, not very high (and I say this because there is a recipe for cake ludlab with many layers, out there - but that is SO not what I am looking for) - it's a silky smooth uber rich chocolate cream studded with sour cherries, on a shortbread-like crust, topped with a hardened layer of dark chocolate.

                                      If any of the ladies at the church or your friend's mother knows what I'm talking about, please please please put this chow out of her misery and get me that recipe. It's been years I've been searching in vain.

                                      You can email me at bubutoos@yahoo.com if you need more information.

                                      THANKS

                                      1. re: maisonbistro
                                        n
                                        Nyleve May 7, 2009 05:56 PM

                                        I have never heard of this and my mother was a serious eater of any sort of cake that had cream and/or chocolate. Sorry to be unhelpful, but just thought I should chime in.

                                        1. re: maisonbistro
                                          PattiCakes May 8, 2009 07:33 AM

                                          I'll send a copy of your post to my friend. We'll see if it rings and bells with her, her mom, or the church ladies.

                                          1. re: maisonbistro
                                            d
                                            Diane in Bexley May 8, 2009 10:39 AM

                                            MB, I found this recipe online, not able to give opinion as I have not made it nor heard of it. If you try it, please share feedback. My mother is coming to visit early June and I would like to try for DD's HS graduation family dinner. Thanks!

                                            http://www.flickr.com/photos/elfrieda...

                                            1. re: Diane in Bexley
                                              m
                                              maisonbistro May 8, 2009 05:58 PM

                                              Nope- that's one of the online recipes I mentioned. The ludlab is not a cake - there is no sponge cake or anything in it. It is simply a shortbreadlike crust, with this incredible silky smooth rich creamy dense chocolatey "filling" that is studded with sour cherries and the that is covered by a thin layer of dark chocolate.

                                              Thanks though. PattiCakes, I am so hoping bells will ring....

                                              1. re: maisonbistro
                                                n
                                                Nyleve May 9, 2009 06:59 AM

                                                Just wondering - this isn't made with those wafer layers you can buy, is it? I remember my mother making some kind of torte with those things also. Chocolate, of course.

                                                1. re: Nyleve
                                                  m
                                                  maisonbistro May 9, 2009 05:17 PM

                                                  Nope - definitely not a layered thing at all. Just three parts- the crust - the luscious filling- and the thin chocolate crust.

                                                2. re: maisonbistro
                                                  JoanN May 9, 2009 08:38 AM

                                                  Had you already come across this ( http://translate.google.com/translate... ) in your Google searches? Does it look anything like what you have in mind?

                                                  1. re: JoanN
                                                    m
                                                    maisonbistro May 9, 2009 05:16 PM

                                                    The filling looks a little similar, but the crust is definitely much darker and thicker, and there never ever was any whipped cream on top. I will try making the filling to see if it comes close to what I remember. The shortbreadlike crust I can make - even if it won't be like the original.
                                                    Thanks a lot, I hadn't seen this recipe before. Translated from Serbian no less.....

                                                    1. re: maisonbistro
                                                      JP_nyc May 9, 2009 06:54 PM

                                                      There's a recipe for Lúdlábtorta in Rick Rodgers excellent "Kaffeehaus" (pp. 74-5). He gives the English translation as "Chocolate-Cherry Mousse Cake". It has a chocolate sponge ("Schokolade Biskuittorte", not shortbread) base, chocolate mousse (with 3 (!) sticks of butter) filling with sweet cherries, and a bittersweet chocolate glaze. He describes it like "eating a chocolate-cherry truffle, as the glaze comes into direct contact with the mousse filling."

                                                      There is a photo of Lúdlábtorta ("Chocolate Cream Gateau") in "Culinaria Hungary" (p. 163), but alas no recipe. The bottom later looks quite thin but again is described as a "chocolate jelly roll sponge base".

                                                      (Interesting to see that lúdláb means “goose leg”; one explanation is that it’s often cut into tiny triangles that resemble goose feet.)

                                                      1. re: maisonbistro
                                                        t
                                                        toveggiegirl May 11, 2009 12:35 PM

                                                        Here are a couple recipes that I think may match your description. Unfortunately, (I think) they are in Hungarian (which I don't speak ) so I'm not sure how helpful this is.

                                                        http://vegagyerek.blogspot.com/2009/03/ludlabtorta-tej-es-tojasmentesen.html

                                                        http://macsfalatok.blogspot.com/2007/...

                                                        1. re: toveggiegirl
                                                          m
                                                          maisonbistro May 11, 2009 05:24 PM

                                                          Thank you - the chocolate coating is as dark as what I used to get here in a Hungarian restaurant, but the 2nd one is close in height. I will print it out and ask my mom to ask her hairdresser - who is Hungararian- to translate it for me. I will try any recipe that is remotely similar to what I remember - This has been a search that has been going on for at least 3 decades!!

                                                          Thank you very much!

                                    3. re: Nyleve
                                      n
                                      Nyleve May 11, 2009 07:02 AM

                                      Spoke to a cousin yesterday who never heard the term "beigli" either. She also had no idea what, exactly, that rolled-up thing was called and suggested that it had no name. This is possible.

                                    4. re: Diane in Bexley
                                      b
                                      BTRAVIS Apr 27, 2010 07:01 PM

                                      As I stated above - My mother was a Hungarian Jew & baked this with a Walnut filling - which she referred to as "Kindle"

                                    5. m
                                      MsTerry Dec 16, 2009 01:29 PM

                                      Your recipe is very similar to my Grandmother's Kindle that she and her sister made for the family every Christmas...One year, many, many years ago when she was still with us, I had my grandmother over to my house and she made Kindle and I wrote down the recipe, because there was NO written recipe! Her dough recipe did not call for yeast, only butter and lard, ap flour, juice of one lemon plus rind, salt, baking powder, evap milk and milk, and eggs. The filling is sugar, cinnamon, raisins, chopped walnuts, jam or jelly, and drizzle butter, then roll it up, bake for 1 hour. Her recipe makes 10 rolls. I will pass on the recipe if you like, but I've been making ever since (probably about 37 years) to carry on the family tradition but have always experienced troubles with the dough cracking during baking. After reading your recipe using the yeast, I may try that instead of the salt, and baking powder. What do you think? Oh, and I'm sorry to add to the origin of Kindle controversy, but my Grandmother and her husband were both from Budapest, Hungary, so I always assumed it was a Hungarian pastry! If you have any input as to why my pastry cracks, please let me know...every year it is such a mystery. Thanks, Terry, Eagle, ID

                                      2 Replies
                                      1. re: MsTerry
                                        d
                                        Diane in Bexley Dec 17, 2009 12:07 PM

                                        Ms. Terry, sorry but I can't help you with your pastry - I grew up in a kosher home (pork & related products prohibited), have never used lard, don't have any experience. The yeast dough I described has always worked for me, we make it for special occasions.

                                        1. re: MsTerry
                                          b
                                          BTRAVIS Apr 27, 2010 07:07 PM

                                          Ms Terry - Your recipe is the closest yet to myJewish-Hungarian Mother's "Kindle" ( except for the lard) Please post the entire Recipe - Thanks, Bruce

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