Top Restaurants - Lunch vs. Dinner

[mjl242]

What are people's opinions about lunch vs. dinner at the top restaurants in the city - specifically the qualiity of the food? For example, Per Se, Jean Georges, Le Bern, and Eleven Madison all serve lunch. I understand lunch is at a disadvantage because there's usually less selection and there's less food/courses. However, it is a lot lighter on the wallet. Let's ignore Ko because that's the exception :)

I'm not really concerned about the service, really only the food. Would there be less "talented" chefs cooking during lunch that would affect the dishes, even if some of them are also available during dinner?

BTW, I've had great lunches at Jean Georges and Le Bern, but haven't been for dinner yet.

[RGR]

I will start by saying that, for me, the sign of a truly great restaurant is that you cannot tell whether or not the executive chef is in the kitchen, i.e., the cuisine is *always* excellent.

From those you list, per se is the only one that serves the same 9-course tasting menu at lunch and dinner at the same prices: $275 (tip included). There is one difference. At lunch, there is also a 5-course tasting @ $175 (tip included). Our one meal there was a Sunday lunch, and it was a delightful way to spend an afternoon. I will add, though, that the cuisine, while exceedingly fine, was no more superior in caliber than the meals we've had at EMP, Le Bernardin, and Jean Georges. I don't know who was in the kitchen a per se when we were there, nor did I care. A restaurant of per se's caliber -- and price point -- should be serving first-rate cuisine at. every. meal!

As regulars here know, EMP is our favorite NYC restaurant. Ergo, we've had countless lunches and dinners there, and I have never seen any difference in quality between the two. Always stellar! There are times when Chef Humm is not in the kithcen for lunch or dinner service, but you will never be able to tell because he has such a terrific crew, headed by the executive sous chef, Fabian Beaufour.

We've had one dinner and one lunch at Jean Georges, and I think the quality of the food is equivalent. Both times, Jean- Georges was in the kitchen. I understand that he spends about 60% of his time at the flagship.

We've not been to lunch at Le Bernardin, but we had dinner there recently, and the food was superb! If you've had great lunches there, my guess is that you will not find any difference in quality at dinner.

[sethd]

Lunch and Dinner at Le Bernardin are both superb.
Second, RGR, do you ask if the executive chef is in the kitchen or at the pass when you go out to eat?

[ian9139]

I have heard that Chef Humm is actually very rarely in the kitchen at EMP, but it is a very stringent and large kitchen in an excellent restaurant so his presence should not affect the food at all.

[RGR]

sethd,

We do often ask if the executive chef is in the kitchen. In quite a few instances, we haven't had to ask. When we had dinner at Jean Georges, we didn't have to ask because he was in the dining room speaking with patrons at a table adjacent to ours. At Le Bernardin, Chef Ripert was standing at a service station near our table when we were seated. Daniel Boulud was making the dining room rounds the last time we were at Daniel. And the list could go on....

Btw, I should make a correction to my statement above that per se is the only restaurant on the o.p.'s list that has the same menu at lunch and dinner. Le Bernardin also has the same menu for both.

ian9193,

While Chef Humm may not always be in the kitchen during lunch service, he is there most of the time during dinner service. But you are correct that when he is away, his staff with Executive Sous Chef Beaufour in command do such a superb job that you cannot tell Chef Humm is not there.

[apples]

I think that Eleven Madison is a much better dinner than lunch. I have had both there and didn't care for my lunches at all but thought dinner was good. Le Bernadin and Jean George I think are both excellent choices for lunch and/or dinner. Get the same great quality food and service for both meals. I have had dinner at Per Se and cannot see doing that kind of meal/experience at lunch.

[kathryn]

EMP at lunch means you don't get the fabulous amuses you get at dinner. It's one of the best parts of the meal for me.

[Miss Needle]

Totally agree. Would definitely do EMP for dinner as opposed to lunch.

And I would prefer to do Per Se for lunch as opposed to dinner so I've got the whole day to digest my food -- though if you're doing the Gourmand menu at EMP, I would rather do it for lunch as well for the same reasons. Unfortunately, no Gourmand during lunch.

[RGR]

I know you were referring to the 11-course dinner Gourmand. However, there is a lunch Gourmand. 5 courses for $68.

http://www.elevenmadisonpark.com/lunc... (Scroll down.)