Any recent experiences at Eleven in Lisbon?

[phoenikia]

Has anyone dined at Eleven recently? If so, how was it?

I looked at the website, but couldn't find a menu with prices listed. If there's a tasting menu, does anyone know how much it costs this year?

If you only had 3 nights in Lisbon, and wanted to dine in upscale restaurants for dinner each night, would you have one of the dinners at Eleven? Where else would you recommend?

[vinhotinto75]

I found Eleven to be rather indifferent and quite mediocre for the price when I was there last month. If you are looking for a more upscale restaurant in Lisbon with a modern take on Portuguese food, I would suggest Terreiro do Paço in the Praça do Comercio.

Nonetheless, I was just going to click on the link for that restaurant and realized that they are temporarily closed for renovations. I think Eleven is in the same management group as Terreiro do Paço in any case.

Quite honestly, while I have been to these places, I tend to have better meals at simpler and smaller restaurants.

Some other upscale and trendy recommendations if that is the route you want to take:

Faz Figura
Casa da Comida
Conventual
Sua Excelência

I also noticed that more trendy/upscale eateries have popped up along both sides of the Avenida da Liberdade between Restauradores and the Praça do Pombal, so maybe you will find something during a nice stroll. Just don't forget to stop and have a few bicas!

Boa Sorte.

[phoenikia]

Thanks for the quick response, vinhotinto75 :)

I like simple & small restaurants, too. Which are your favourite small restaurants?

[vinhotinto75]

Phoenikia,

Here are some smaller places (and very affordable) in Lisbon that I love for the unpretentious nature of the food and ambience. The food is not "sophisticated", yet the simple nature and surroundings of the establishment is just as important. Also, I also appreciate that in countries such as Portugal, France, Italy, and Argentina, house wine is a local and drinkable wine that costs as much as sparkling water!

Some smaller and unpretentious suggestions in Lisbon:

Bonjardim (Restauradores) - Great roasted chicken and fries, yet other options too. House Red or White (Casalheiros) from the Ribatejo is 4 Euros a bottle! One of my favorites.

O Ponto Vermelho (Bairro Alto) - A Portuguese-style Bistrôt on the Rua das Gáveas in the Bairro Alto. Unpretentious, good service, and excellent food. I love the veal in cream sauce. Nice wine list which is cheap too.

Restaurante Porco Preto (Praça das Flores) Near the upscale Conventual, this restaurant has some excellent dishes and innovative cuisine.

Esquina da Fé - A local-type restaurant on the Rua da Fé (near Rua São José). Fantastic food, low-key, and a nice owner.

O Churrasco da Graça - A nice and simple, family-run place in Graça. The bakery across the street is one of my favorite in Lisbon.

A Granja Velha - A friend of a friend took me here a few years ago, and I like to go here on Saturday's for lunch. It''s in the Baixa near the Praça da Figueira.

I've given some suggestions based on different areas of the city, yet if you have any questions at all, feel free at any time to write!

Boa Sorte e Viagem.

[phoenikia]

Thanks again, vinhotinto75:) Can't wait to try at least a few of these places out during my visit. I'm really looking forward to it already!

[phoenikia]

Hi vinhotinto75,
I was trying to narrow down my list. I'm hoping to try many of these places you have recommended.
Are any of the places you've recommended within a 10-15 minute walk of the Hotel Britania? I'd like to have a list of a few restaurants that are convenient to the hotel, in case I don't have the energy to get to another part of town:)
I noticed you recommend Chafariz do Vinho on another post, which looked interesting to me.

[bostonspoet]

vinhotinto-

thanks for these recommendations - mt boyfriend is taking me to Madrid and Lisbon for my birthday in September and i was hoping to have my birthday dinner in Lisbon at a romantic spot with Portuguese cuisine (traditional or modern) but without breaking our bank accounts. any suggestions that are foodie favorites without michelin star prices?

thanks for the help!

[vinhotinto75]

Hi BostonPoet - one place that I tried as recently as a few weeks ago that I found rather good and affordable was in the Graça neighborhood called Restaurante Kaetano's. It bills itself as upscale "noveau or nova" Portuguese cuisine with affordable prices. It is rather new and was quite good the night I ate there. They even have a 5 course tasting menu for 21 Euro a person! Not bad. The website I believe is entirely in Portuguese, so if you need help translating, let me know! Just hit "avançar (advance) when you hit the website to see the menu (ementa) and such.

http://www.restaurantekaetanos.com/

Some other suggestions that are not stuffy and overly expensive might be:

A Charcutaria Francesa - Princesa Real - Quick note - Do not confuse this with another upscale restaurant called A Charcutaria on the Rua do Alecrim which I cannot recommend under ANY circumstances!

Flor de Sal - Praça das Flores - A new place with innovative dishes and friendly service. If you want to go a bit more upscale - yet not more pricey reallly - then the traditional Conventual is across the square in this lovely area of Lisbon. You might have to run the website in compatability mode if you are using IE.

Also, another old-standby, but always good is the Sinal Vermelho in the Bairro Alto on the Rua das Gáveas.

Feel free to write if you have ANY questions.

Boa Viagem!
http://www.flordesal.com.pt

[phoenikia]

BTW, which are your favourite places to stop for a bica?

[vinhotinto75]

There are tons of places to get a good bica close to where you are staying. If I recall, there are a few pastelarias at the corner of Rua Barata Salgueiro and Rua Rodrigues Sampaio that will have fantastic espresso that is cheap and delicious.

One of my favorite things about Lisbon is walking and just randomly having a bica either at the counter or sitting at a table. If you venture to the Graça area, which I highly recommend (more than Alfama), one place for a great bica, snack, or even light meal is the Estrela da Graça in the the Largo da Graça. A great local neighborhood place is right across the square call O Churrasco da Graça.

Still, you are also very close to the Avenida da Liberdade where there are tons of cafés and bars for a bica, a glass of vinho, or an imperial (draft beer). One place that is worth exploring for a cheap dinner or lunch is O Forninho do Saloio which is within walking distance from your hotel. The service is so-so, yet some of the grilled dishes (chicken, rabbit, steaks, fish) are very good, hearty, and cheap.

http://www.forninhosaloio.com/inicio.php

Update: I was at the Chafariz do Vinho last month (early July) and I thought that the food was terribly weak both times that I went. Nonetheless, while it isn't awfully far from your hotel, it's not that close of a walk - precisely because it is at the top of the hill.

Still, a new tiny wine bar opened right down the street from O Chafariz, called Os Goliardos, which has a fantastic wine selection along with cheese and salads that might make a nice alternative for a light dinner or nightcap.

http://osgoliardos.com/blog/

Please feel free to write whenever for more suggestions/questions.

Boa Sorte!

[phoenikia]

Thanks for all of your comments, as well as the links;) Muita Obrigada!

I have several additional questions.

For quality shellfish and fish, which restaurant would you recommend? Which restaurants serve the best arroz de marisco?

Have you dined at the Marisqueira de Santa Marta? I haven't noticed it mentioned on these boards, but I found a review on another site. http://www.marisqueirasantamarta.pt.vu/

Also, besides the bicas, are there any non-alchoholic Portuguese drinks that are distinctive or special? Do the Portuguese drink anything similar to an espresso freddo or a Greek frappe? Are there any special fruit drinks or juices which you would consider to be typically Portuguese? I've tried googling non-alcoholic Portuguese beverages, and I haven't found too much:)

[vinhotinto75]

One of the freshest places for seafood, despite the name which is somewhat misleading, is Solar dos Presuntos, on Rua Portas de Santo Antão. Yes, this is the street famous with seafood and many sub-par seafood restaurants, yet Solar dos Presuntos is not really in the middle of these establishments and has a longstanding tradition of serving quality seafood and shellfish.

http://www.solardospresuntos.com/

Probably the best place for fresh shellfish is Cervejaria Ramiro which is located on Avenida Almirante Reis. Some people claim that the are is a bit dicey, yet I have never seen it that way. In any case, cabs in Lisbon are very cheap, so I suggest taking one anyway. Cervejaria Ramiro is strictly shellfish, so they will not have fish or other dishes on the menu. Yet, they have the freshest shellfish in the city.

http://www.cervejariaramiro.pt/

I think one option for good seafood would be to take a boat either from Cais do Sodre or even in Belém across the Tejo to Cacilhas. There are several restaurants specializing in seafood there which are fantastic, especially O Ponto Final, which is all the way at the end. Some people also like O Farol and a Brazilian restaurant Atire-Te Ao Rio. All of them have spectacular views of Lisbon, the River Tejo, and the 25 de Abril Bridge.

In answering other questions, I have not eaten at Marisqueira de Santa Marta.

The bica (espresso) is the most common in Lisbon, yet they also do serve other coffees such as a Galão Claro or Escuro (similar to a Latte- light or dark); Carioca (similar to an Americano - espresso coffee and hot water). There are several other types too.

Other than wine, beer, port, and ginjinha (a cherry-like liqueur), I'm trying to think of some non-alcholic drinks that would be typical. While in many parts of the world, wine, beer, and coffee are seen as luxuries, they are simply beverages and part of the Portuguese diet and cuisine. Thus, a glass of wine is often cheaper than a soda or other form of soft drink.

One thing that I highly suggest, if you are going still in August, is to call or check if they will be open because many places close for vacation weeks at a time.

Boa Sorte!

[illy]

The place I love to go for lunch in Lisbon is the Gulbenkian museum (the modern building). It has an amazing cafeteria-style buffet (they dish it out for you--you can just point to what you want). You have, I think, an option of 4 or 6 items (I think 4 costs 8-10 euros, or even less, and the portions are large). I'm a vegetarian, and don't eat fish, but I've been to the Gulbenkian at least 8 times and have never been disappointed--I always have many options.
Everyone seems to get a full meal, with soup, main and a dessert (a huge wedge of fruit or a fluffy, creamy cake, etc.).
There are lineups on Sat. and Sunday, but the line moves quickly and and by the time you get your food, a table is always available. If you don't go around lunch time, then all they have are desserts and snacks. Go for the lunch! BTW--the modern gallery is beautiful--small with a nice sculpture garden too. From what I can tell, most people come for the lunch and don't check out the gallery. It's located just around the corner from El Corte Ingles, if you're there to do some shopping...

[phoenikia]

Good to know- I'll definitely be visiting the museum, so I'll make a point to try out their cafeteria. Thanks for the tip, illy!

[phoenikia]

Thanks so much for all your detailed comments, vinhotinto75:)

[vinhotinto75]

Phoenikia - you are most welcome. I've been fortunate to spend quite a bit of extended time in Lisbon over the past few years - and will for the forseeable future - and must say that it is a lovely city that is best enjoyed spontaneously.

However, if you are on a tight schedule, it makes sense to have some places and an itinerary sorted out to some extent. Just trust your instincts and go with what you are in the mood for eating/seeing.

**Personally** while I do love the Gulbenkian Museum and its offerings, if you are on a tight schedule, I would perhaps leave that for a second visit (particularly if the weather is nice). El Corte Ingles is a top-notch (albeit Spanish owned) department store with inflated prices. If you live in North America, you will not encounter anything unique to say the least. I'm a cookware junkie, yet the inflated prices (exchange rates aside) on the cookware items, culinary delicacies (wines, cheese, etc.) and everything else tend to be overpriced - particularly for Lisbon. I've encountered bottles of wine and other items much cheaper at many other locations throughout the city.

Boa Sorte and let me know how it turns out! I've never stayed in the Britania, but I've heard wonderful things about their line of hotels!

Boa Viagem!

[phoenikia]

Thanks for all your tips & advice. I probably won't spend much time shopping- mostly want to focus on the food, culture, atmosphere.

Thanks for the recommendation to enjoy Lisbon spontaneously- I like to be spontaneous, in terms of where I end up, but at the same time, I like having a list of good options for various neighbourhoods or dishes so I'm less likely to waste a meal at an accidental tourist trap:)

Will let you know how it turns out!

[phoenikia]

vinhotinto74, I wanted to thank you for your great suggestions.

We visited Fornino Saloio our first night- what a great place. Their chicken was great, as were there desserts. Nice people running the place.

We also got a chance to visit Solar dos Presuntos, where we had a lovely seafood dinner. My mom tried a seafood fejoaida (sp?) that was a nice change from other meaty versions I've tried. I ordered the dorado, which was perfect, and my dad's octopus was one of the best grilled versions we've found. Thanks for the rec. I definitely would revisit Solar dos Presuntos and Fornino Saloio if I were to visit Lisbon again.

We asked the concierge for a suggestion for seafood on a Sunday night in early August (when Solar dos Presuntos was closed for summer vacation), and ended up a at Cervejeria Ribadouro. While the dishes were pricy, the portions were huge. The quality of the seafood was very good, but most of the preparations we ordered were very salty (too salty for me). Very popular place on a Sunday night.

Also enjoyed a port wine mousse cake at Pasteleria Suiza. Have to say, I enjoyed every dessert or pastry I tried in Lisbon.

The breakfasts at the Britania Hotel were great- fresh squeezed oj, warm pastries, lots of fresh fruit that tasted better than anything I can find in Canada.

I was impressed with the quality of the food and service we experienced in Lisbon. Thanks again, for all your help!

[IPcook]

hi-what is your opinion of the Restaurant Olivier? Recommend it?
we will be in Lisbon from friday september 3 to monday september 7
any suggestions for good quality interesting cuisine at a reasonable tab ( less than 50 euros /person with wine) would be appreciated.

[vinhotinto75]

I've eaten at Olivier twice in the past few years and while the food can be quite good, it is more of a place to be seen more than anything else. One indication of this are the photos of both Portuguese and international celebrities on their website. Prices tend to be high for Lisbon, but not terribly expensive. Restaurante Olivier recently moved to the Rua do Alecrim and are adjacent to a restaurant, A Charcutaria, which looks apetizing but leaves much to be desired from a price and service point of view. I would eat at Olivier 10/10 times rather than Charcutaria (not to be confused with A Charcutaria Francesa in Princesa Real which is very good).

http://restaurante-olivier.com/

For cheaper alternatives with a less pretentious atmosphere, try:

Sinal Vermelho (Bairro Alto
)Kaetano's (Graça)
Restaurante 25 de Abril (Bairro Alto/Chiado)
Flor de Sal (Praça das Flores)
Nectar Wine Bar (Baixa)
Tagide (Chiado) - note - limited hours but a fantastic view and very good food.

Boa Sorte e Viagem!

[IPcook]

vinhottinto75
thank you very much for such a speedy and helpful reply
i notice that many lisbon restaurants are closed on Sunday-do you a specific recommendation for that day?

[IPcook]

Hi Vinhotitnto75
one further question
what time do locals normally eat dinner in Lisbon? Is it like Madrid where Spainards eat very late? ( after 10 PM)

[vinhotinto75]

I have found that ideal/prime dining time in Lisbon ranges from 8:30-9:30. Yet, some people do dine earlier or later.

Yes - most of the better restaurants do tend to be closed on Sunday's, yet some suggestions:

Restaurante Senhora Mãe (Alfama) - I ate there twice over the past year and found the food (contemporary Portuguese) to be quite good and service friendly and not stuffy.

http://www.senhoramae.com/

Café São Bento - A classic restaurant - particularly the Portuguese Steak and Fries. It should be open for dinner on Sunday.

Via Graça - I've never had a bad meal here over the years and the view is one of the best in Lisbon. They are open for dinner as well.

http://www.restauranteviagraca.com/in...

Aside from these three restaurants, perhaps you will encounter locations that are open throughout the city.

Boa Sorte!