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Co. Pizza- Too Tarte

guttergourmet Apr 20, 2009 10:45 AM

Was really looking forward to Co. I'm a fan of Lahey's Sullivan Street Bakery. However, I was disappointed. I'm afraid I have to agree with Bruni (something I rarely do) with regard to the toppings. If this is supposed to be Neopolitan style pizza, I have to question the strong French influence. I mean bechamel sauce, lardons, gruyere? They even call one of the pies a "flambe" (as in tarte flambe)with the bacon and onions. My daughter's margherita pizza was good, but Una Pizza Napoletana's and ,more recently, Keste's, were far superior. My sausage and fennel (hold the oignons) was fine for a tarte. These pizzas are more like gallettes or, at the risk of further pissing off Lahey, pissaladieres.

  1. k
    kathryn Apr 20, 2009 11:47 AM

    > If this is supposed to be Neopolitan style pizza

    I don't think it is, it's inspired by it but it is not Neopolitan style pizza. Have you been to Pizzeria Mozza in Los Angeles? The menus share some similarity. Not really Neopolitan but not really of NY.

    At Company, I've also found the dough recently to be less puffy / fluffy than it was in the early days.

    http://www.nytimes.com/2008/09/03/din...

    5 Replies
    1. re: kathryn
      p
      Pan Apr 20, 2009 09:01 PM

      "At Company, I've also found the dough recently to be less puffy / fluffy than it was in the early days."

      Is that good or bad?

      1. re: Pan
        k
        kathryn Apr 21, 2009 07:14 AM

        IMO bad because 3 months ago you could firmly say that it was some of the best pizza dough in town with excellent hole structure. My visit a few weekends ago did not yield such results.

      2. re: kathryn
        omotosando Jun 20, 2009 08:23 PM

        Re Kathyrn and the comparison to Mozza, I don't think there is any similarity between the pizza at Mozza and the pizza at Co. (just trying to warn anyone who likes Mozza and is expecting something similar at Co.)

        I love Mozza and found the pizza at Co. a great disappointment. The crust at Mozza has wonderful flavor. I found the crust at Co. to be puffy and flavorless (except where it was burnt - which it was in quite a few places -- and which yielded, surprise, surprise, a burnt flavor). Also wasn't impressed with the toppings on the pizza I ordered - green olives, anchovies, chili. I expected the flavors to sing, but they didn't even whisper. I dream of the pizzas at Mozza, but my pie at Co. just left me wishing I had picked up a slice somewhere.

        The escarole salad was also underwhelming.

        I will leave this place to the young crowds who line up. I didn't find this place worthy of a neighborhood restaurant, much less a destination dining place.

        1. re: omotosando
          k
          kathryn Jun 22, 2009 06:46 PM

          It *really* felt more like Mozza in the beginning because the crust was fluffy and tasty, since then, it's been inconsistent. They both have nice, high quality topping though I haven't had the green olive/anchovy/chili one. Was it a daily special?

          1. re: kathryn
            omotosando Jun 23, 2009 04:25 PM

            Nope not a special. It's the first pizza on the menu and the cheapest.

      3. schlimmerkerl Apr 21, 2009 01:34 PM

        Scroll up for my overall review/rant of Co.

        1. m
          mbun May 15, 2009 11:15 AM

          I was visiting NY this past week and couldn't wait to taste the pizza at Co. I am a great fan of Sullivan St. Bakery and great pizza .....perfect combination. My son (in the biz) and myself (foodie) ordered salad and two pies (just to try and compare). We ordered The Popeye ( highly rated by critics) and simple fresh tomato with cheese (basic) Both crusts were soggy... I am not exagerating!!!! The Popeye was minus any garlic and pepper ( according to menu) and tasteless cheese. The tomato sauce on the other pizza was tasteless and the cheese was barely visable. What exactly are people raving about?
          I have eaten better pizza in my own kitchen.....and I don't cook? Waste of time, money and quite honestly I was insulted!!!!!

          1. Slob May 16, 2009 08:50 AM

            I'm sure the pie is not as "traditional" at Co. as it is at Keste, but I think Co. blows Keste completely out of the water. Keste's crust was very very soggy in the middle. Co's was firm throughout. I hate a watery, soggy crust, so that might explain my Co. preference.

            On top of that, the renowned Faico sausage on the Keste pie was completely tasteless and had the consistency, texture and coloring of dog food. It looked uncooked and tasted like nothing. The sausage on the Co. pie was very tasty and had a sear on it.

            2 Replies
            1. re: Slob
              f
              foodwhisperer May 17, 2009 05:55 PM

              The sausage on the pie at Co. was tasty ,, but if you dont like hot sausage or cant eat spicy, then stay away from the sausage

              1. re: Slob
                w
                wileen Jul 8, 2009 07:50 PM

                Absolutely agreed!
                ..in fact the only reason I would ever compare the pizza at Co. to the pizza at Keste is to contrast one of the best to the worst.
                Seriously, Co. totally blows Keste out of the water!
                It's pointless to argue.
                Read the NY Times today, 7/8.
                Frank Bruni is spot on about the soggy pizza and jimmy dean sausage topping at Keste!

                ..again, the knowledgeable pizza critics are not judging the best Neopolitan pizza (which may NOT necessarily be "the best" type). Rather, they are judging the best pizza based on taste and texture.

              2. rootytootyfreshnfrooty Jun 20, 2009 08:54 PM

                I am very sorry, but I am a pizza eating civilian with no ties to anyone, and I went to Company a week ago and loved it. LOVED it. I had the Lardons pie and it was burnt perfectly and delicious! End of story. I'm not comparing it to anywhere else- Why should I? I find it original and excellent. I went at 3PM and got totally fast fresh service and a hot pie!

                2 Replies
                1. re: rootytootyfreshnfrooty
                  f
                  foodwhisperer Jun 22, 2009 06:42 PM

                  The chicken livers are really good at Co.

                  1. re: rootytootyfreshnfrooty
                    Slob Jun 28, 2009 02:32 PM

                    rootytooty, I agree with you completely on Co. We also had the lardons pie, and it was INCREDIBLE. The flavors were bold and extraordinary. I don't compare it to anything but my own concept of good and bad. And, to me, the flavor is all that matters. And Co. didn't let me down on flavors at all.

                    The crust was exceptional too, as it had integrity unlike so many of the other places like Keste, who have decent pie but the crust turns to mush after a couple minutes.

                  2. m
                    Malorkis Jul 8, 2009 08:55 AM

                    Co. is AWFUL PIZZA. I went there with my AUTHENTIC ITALIAN boyfriend who owned a restaurant in Italy for 8 years-he told the manager that the crust on the pizza was burnt and he couldn't eat it that way-the manager argued with him and said, "That is the way it comes." So he said, "I'll eat it-if that's the way you cook it." They were rude and to say the least, didn't offer us anything else on their pious menu. We happily went in expecting to have a good service and a great meal-and Co. did not meet those standards. If you want a place that will make you feel like the customer is always wrong-go to Co. However, if you want a place not as pretentious as Co.-I suggest from a true Neopolitan's P.O.V.-Go to LUZZO's, NO. 28 or KESTE. Stop messing around with people who do not know how to make true pizza-it is a slap in the face to the original. Please.

                    2 Replies
                    1. re: Malorkis
                      c
                      Cpalms Jul 8, 2009 09:46 AM

                      Co. is not supposed to make "true" pizza or neopolitan style pizza....frankly I agree with alan richman were he says the pizza in the US is far better than in italy. Neopolitan (de michele being a good example) pizza is soggy...Take your BF for BBQ or Steak the next time he is NY...please

                      http://men.style.com/gq/features/land...

                      1. re: Malorkis
                        Slob Jul 9, 2009 07:55 PM

                        I don't think Co. ever claimed to be true Neopolitan pizza. So, if your boyfriend copped an attitude with them about the pizza not being true Neopolitan pizza, then he was in the wrong. If he's a fan of watery "crust" and tasteless topping (the sausage was completely devoid of taste and had the consistency of sawdust), then Keste would be a good place for him.

                      2. w
                        wileen Jul 8, 2009 07:40 PM

                        OMG! are you serious??! Keste is far superior? ...I can't even comment as I don't want to offend.
                        and by the way, Frank Bruni is spot on about pizza at Keste-- it is NOT good (to put it nicely) he used the perfect adjective to describe the dough-- soggy!
                        and don't forget what he said about the frozen toppings!
                        finally, some justice.
                        all the hype about keste has been extremely disappointing.

                        The pizza at Co. is great!
                        Also, if you read carefully, Bruni is not grading what should be the perfect Neopolitan pizza. He is judging taste and texture of different styles and choosing the best of the bunch.

                        9 Replies
                        1. re: wileen
                          omotosando Jul 8, 2009 08:55 PM

                          I don't know anything about Keste, but here is what Bruni had to say in today's New York Times about Co.:

                          "But his blisters sometimes cross the line into soot, and on the same recent day when I had yet another terrific popeye, I had an undercooked margherita with a few tiny, shriveled basil leaves and a stingy measure of tomato and cheese, too. What an odd pizza. What a strange place."

                          The pizza I had at Co. was close to inedible. Perhaps I will give the another try next time I am in NYC based on some of the raves here, but the pizza I did have there recently was just bad.

                          1. re: omotosando
                            w
                            wileen Jul 9, 2009 07:30 PM

                            But you quoted the only negative comments he had about Co. ..
                            Also, Co. made his top list despite that comment... unlike Keste, which he basically said was horrible.

                            1. re: wileen
                              p
                              Pan Jul 10, 2009 01:10 AM

                              Do you put a lot of weight on Bruni's reviews, generally, or only when you agree with them? To be fair, I always felt he understood Italian food better than any other kind, but I never put really great weight on his opinions.

                              1. re: Pan
                                w
                                wileen Jul 11, 2009 07:17 AM

                                Actually, it's not all about Bruni. Not at all.
                                I was just happy that his review was so on point about Keste because he is a well known critic in NYC who is quite well respected.

                                1. re: wileen
                                  p
                                  Pan Jul 11, 2009 11:09 PM

                                  Well-respected by some. Others not so much. :-)

                                  1. re: wileen
                                    x
                                    xny556cip Jul 12, 2009 09:48 AM

                                    " While Bruni liked Co.’s pizza bianca, Lahey disagreed with that, too: “It’s dogshit!”

                                    I tend to trust the owner more than Bruni.

                                    Click on the photos below:
                                    1) Co,
                                    2) Keste
                                    3) Motorino

                                     
                                     
                                     
                                    1. re: xny556cip
                                      w
                                      wileen Jul 14, 2009 07:44 PM

                                      Really? Lahey called his own bianca "dogshit?"...seriously, I highly doubt that and if that is a quote, I'm sure out of context.

                                      1. re: wileen
                                        b
                                        boccalupo Jul 14, 2009 08:36 PM

                                        Yes apparently...But I think Lahey intended it more as a dig on Bruni who had some negative things to say about Co.'s pizza in his April review but loved the bianca (which Lahey seemed to feel was not up to his usual standard at that point).

                                        http://www.observer.com/2009/daily-tr...

                                        1. re: boccalupo
                                          w
                                          wileen Jul 15, 2009 05:05 PM

                                          right, I think I recall that. I think that was when he first opened Co, and was a bit disappointed that the bianca didn't come out as he wanted. he wasn't yet used to the oven.

                          2. a
                            aeros Jul 9, 2009 07:40 PM

                            I, too, was looking forward to Co. Pizza after its opening. Unfortunately, I was similarly disappointed. The pizza was dry and ingredients sparse. In comparison, I was recently at Arturo's on W. Houston at Thompson. No comparison. Arturo's pizza was far superior.

                            1 Reply
                            1. re: aeros
                              x
                              xny556cip Jul 12, 2009 09:55 AM

                              Though I would agree,in fairness Arturos is a completely different style of Pizza.
                              NY/Coal Fired/Heavily topped.So you are not really comparing Apples to Apples.

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