Co. Pizza- Too Tarte
- guttergourmet Apr 20, 2009 10:45 AM
Was really looking forward to Co. I'm a fan of Lahey's Sullivan Street Bakery. However, I was disappointed. I'm afraid I have to agree with Bruni (something I rarely do) with regard to the toppings. If this is supposed to be Neopolitan style pizza, I have to question the strong French influence. I mean bechamel sauce, lardons, gruyere? They even call one of the pies a "flambe" (as in tarte flambe)with the bacon and onions. My daughter's margherita pizza was good, but Una Pizza Napoletana's and ,more recently, Keste's, were far superior. My sausage and fennel (hold the oignons) was fine for a tarte. These pizzas are more like gallettes or, at the risk of further pissing off Lahey, pissaladieres.
> If this is supposed to be Neopolitan style pizza
I don't think it is, it's inspired by it but it is not Neopolitan style pizza. Have you been to Pizzeria Mozza in Los Angeles? The menus share some similarity. Not really Neopolitan but not really of NY.
At Company, I've also found the dough recently to be less puffy / fluffy than it was in the early days.
Re Kathyrn and the comparison to Mozza, I don't think there is any similarity between the pizza at Mozza and the pizza at Co. (just trying to warn anyone who likes Mozza and is expecting something similar at Co.)
I love Mozza and found the pizza at Co. a great disappointment. The crust at Mozza has wonderful flavor. I found the crust at Co. to be puffy and flavorless (except where it was burnt - which it was in quite a few places -- and which yielded, surprise, surprise, a burnt flavor). Also wasn't impressed with the toppings on the pizza I ordered - green olives, anchovies, chili. I expected the flavors to sing, but they didn't even whisper. I dream of the pizzas at Mozza, but my pie at Co. just left me wishing I had picked up a slice somewhere.
The escarole salad was also underwhelming.
I will leave this place to the young crowds who line up. I didn't find this place worthy of a neighborhood restaurant, much less a destination dining place.
I was visiting NY this past week and couldn't wait to taste the pizza at Co. I am a great fan of Sullivan St. Bakery and great pizza .....perfect combination. My son (in the biz) and myself (foodie) ordered salad and two pies (just to try and compare). We ordered The Popeye ( highly rated by critics) and simple fresh tomato with cheese (basic) Both crusts were soggy... I am not exagerating!!!! The Popeye was minus any garlic and pepper ( according to menu) and tasteless cheese. The tomato sauce on the other pizza was tasteless and the cheese was barely visable. What exactly are people raving about?
I have eaten better pizza in my own kitchen.....and I don't cook? Waste of time, money and quite honestly I was insulted!!!!!
I'm sure the pie is not as "traditional" at Co. as it is at Keste, but I think Co. blows Keste completely out of the water. Keste's crust was very very soggy in the middle. Co's was firm throughout. I hate a watery, soggy crust, so that might explain my Co. preference.
On top of that, the renowned Faico sausage on the Keste pie was completely tasteless and had the consistency, texture and coloring of dog food. It looked uncooked and tasted like nothing. The sausage on the Co. pie was very tasty and had a sear on it.
..in fact the only reason I would ever compare the pizza at Co. to the pizza at Keste is to contrast one of the best to the worst.
Seriously, Co. totally blows Keste out of the water!
It's pointless to argue.
Read the NY Times today, 7/8.
Frank Bruni is spot on about the soggy pizza and jimmy dean sausage topping at Keste!
..again, the knowledgeable pizza critics are not judging the best Neopolitan pizza (which may NOT necessarily be "the best" type). Rather, they are judging the best pizza based on taste and texture.
I am very sorry, but I am a pizza eating civilian with no ties to anyone, and I went to Company a week ago and loved it. LOVED it. I had the Lardons pie and it was burnt perfectly and delicious! End of story. I'm not comparing it to anywhere else- Why should I? I find it original and excellent. I went at 3PM and got totally fast fresh service and a hot pie!
rootytooty, I agree with you completely on Co. We also had the lardons pie, and it was INCREDIBLE. The flavors were bold and extraordinary. I don't compare it to anything but my own concept of good and bad. And, to me, the flavor is all that matters. And Co. didn't let me down on flavors at all.
The crust was exceptional too, as it had integrity unlike so many of the other places like Keste, who have decent pie but the crust turns to mush after a couple minutes.