Orvieto in early June
My husband and I will be spending two days (3 to 4 meals) in Orvieto in early June.
I have in my notes that I sette consoli is closed on Tuesday. However, after doing some additional research it appears that it is actually closed on Wednesday. Can someone please clarify this for me?
How soon does one need to make reservations at that time of the year in Orvieto?
Has anyone had any recent dining experiences?
Thank you in advance. This info will help narrow down the seemingly endless amount of choices. (Then I need to tackle the Rome list.)
We stopped in Orvieto for the day about 3 weeks ago and ate lunch at La Grotta. It was very nice. We had a traditional antipasti platter, I had gnocchi. and I can't immediately recall what my husband had. We both wanted to order a 2nd, but we just couldn't eat it all. I am thinking I also had their chickpea soup which was also delicious. Our waiter did not really speak english at all but it wasn't a problem. We had a late lunch as I recall and there were very few diners. We just walked in. There really did not seem to be a large amount of tourists in Orvieto that day. It was the market day- maybe a Thursday?
Well...I think a person would run out of things to do in Orvieto before they would run out of places to eat. (That's not to disparage Orvieto...but rather praise its dining scene.)
We had a lovely time and wonderful food.
We arrived just in time for lunch. Our first choice was La Palumba..it smelled divine..however they said they were full and they weren't sure when they would have another available table. (This was about 1:15)
On to La Pergola...they too were full but said they'd have a table in a half hour. We forced ourselves (ha!) to a wine bar to bide our time.
We were not disappointed. My husband had the gnocchi with panchetta, spinach and truffle. I am not a big fan of gnocchi (or truffle)...but this dish made me a convert. I had a a Ravioli di patalece talleggio con pachino e rucola (and least that's what my notes say...I can't read my own darn handwriting). It was very delicate and quite delicious in and of itself.
My husband had another winner with his secondi - Cinghiale allo Cacciatora. I had a decent Agnello allo Scottadito. We accompanied the meal with the house red - very nice. Our first dining experience in Italy was a complete success and I would highly recommend La Pergola.
That evening we went to I sette consoli. (My husband's choice - I had lobbied for Giglio d'Oro. As it was, Giglio d'Oro appeared to be closed up on both Tuesday and Wednesday - I knew it was closed on Wednesday but expected it to be open on Tuesday - maybe my jetlag was making me hallucinate and it was actually open.)
I sette consoli was very nice. We both decided on the fixed price menu as most everything we were going to order was on there anyway.
Our meal was Eggplant Parmigiano, Pasta with Scorpion Fish, Duck Tortelli with truffle, Lamb loin with hazelnut, a cheese course, and a dessert of white chocolate and goat cheese.
Our favorite courses were the Duck Tortelli and the Lamb Loin (this was actually one of our favorite dishes of the entire trip - both Orvieto and Rome).
We really had a nice time. The server was delightful and gave us wonderful information regarding the wines of the region. My only complaint was that the courses came right on top of each other. We were looking for a bit more relaxed meal.
The next day we looked in vain for L'Asino D'oro. Looking at my map...where I thought it should be there was actually a restuarant named Da Corsa...again I was still a bit jetlagged and could have just been turned around.
We ended up at Trattoria Etrusca (on via Maitani). Another great meal. And the servers were especially good (and hilarious). My notes on this place are not very comprehensive (or legible)...however we both had the eggless pasta with vegtables. Very fresh and bursting with the flavors of the vegtables. It was a pretty big serving and we should have split the order. Our server appeared hurt that neither of us finished our bowls. (We tried!)
I had a veal with artichoke and my husband had the rabbit. I loved mine. My husband thought the rabbit was ok - not great but good.
That night we had some unmemorable pizza at a place I didn't even bother to write the name down. We weren't very hungry. So...it wasn't that much of a disappointment.
Thanks for all your input. I didn't mean to write so much (my Rome report is probably going to end up being a novelette.)
La Palomba is a must... we had lunch there on the way to Castelnuovo Berardenga last Sept. It was a rainy day, but the incredible meal at this trattoria made up for it. We will stop there again on our trip to Montalto this Sept. The fresh truffle crostini was amazing! Their house wine with their label was great, and the prices reasonable. Have a great trip. If you ever want to stay for a week or two in Tuscany, Castello di Montalto is a magical place, and a great location near Siena. It will be our third stay there.
How about L'Asino D'oro; Via del Popolo, 9. Lots of reviews online.
We really enjoyed this place on multiple visits; they offer traditional Umbrian food but not the stuff that was on offer in almost every other Umbrian resto we tried. It is so deeply traditional that it seems fresh and innovative. If you are adventurous eaters, this place might appeal.
Prior to this posting, my list for Orvieto consisted of Giglio d'Oro, La Palomba, I sette Consoli, Tattoria Etrusca, Trattoria dell'Orso and La Pergola. Everybody seems to have confirmed that I'm on the right path. Thanks!
In addition, I have La Grotta listed as a lunch possibility. However, I don't know that I've seen much about it on this board.
Maureen - thanks for confirming that the day I sette Consoli is closed is NOT on their website (and also that the music IS annoying). My Italian language skills are less than rudimentary, however, I think I've learned enough to recognize the words for closed on Tuesday/Wednesday...or whatever day it may be.
re: jen kalb
I took your advice and e-mailed them. (I really need to stop being such a wuss about the langauge barrier and just jump in there and take my chances!) Anyway...I received a very prompt response - they do indeed have a weekly Wednesday closing. In addition, they are closed on Sunday evenings.
Of course this completely messes with my original plan of Giglio d'Oro one night and I sette Consoli the next! Back to the drawing board...
In Orvieto, where my husband has been going as a consultant to the town for at least 25 years, our favorite trattorias are La Pergola and La Palomba and our favorite nice restaurant is Giglio d'Oro. And our favorite nice but traditional restaurant is Trattoria Etrusca, on via Maitani (there are various other places with Etrusca in their name), but it's been a while. We blacklisted the consuls some years ago for bad behavior, though the food was very good. As for how far in advance you need to reserve, I shouldn't think very far except for Saturday evenings, and if the place you want it full, there are many other good places to eat. It is a mystery why restaurants don't put their closing day on their web site, but 7 consoli doesn’t, plus the site plays loud annoying music.
I don't know about I Setti Consoli, but for great Umbrian food, (Not "creative cuisine") you might try one of several Slowfood picks in Orvieto:
TRATTORIA DELL'ORSO; closed Monday and Tuesday. I have recommended this place to several people and all have been pleased with their meals, and with the genial hosts. English is spoken, by the way.
I can't imagine you would have to book more than a day or so ahead but I was there in January so perhaps the town gets much busier in tourist season...