food in second-tier cities: which ones?

[mr_gimlet]

Thanks to everyone for the help with Barca in a few weeks. We're planning a second, longer trip to France and Spain in July and were looking for a chillout town to hang out in for a week. Fundamental to chilling out is affordable food and wine, but there has to be enough to do and see around and on day trips - no car. Madrid, San Seb and Barca are probably a bit too expensive.

Anyone got any suggestions? I was thinking of Sanlucar de Barrameda but there hasn't been much posted recently on it, though it seemed within reach of a few places.

[PhilD]

I didn't stay in Sanlucar but we had a good time exploring the area We did visit the town to taste sherry and eat seafood at the famous seafood fast food place - can't recall the name. Overall impression is that it is worth a visit if you love sherry (we do) but I am very glad we didn't stay - it is a little run-down (dusty and unloved).

We had driven from the UK meadering across Spain, we first stayed in "Tarifa" which really buzzes with a young wind/kite surfing crowd. It is quite affluent so some reasonable food and a good atmosphere. We then stayed on the beach at "Zahara de le Ayunes" which has good seafood and a couple of interesting restaurants - reputadly popular with the well to do from Madrid.

We then moved to Arcos de la Frontera which is spectacular/quite but food wasn't that great (OK tapas) if we went again we would stay in Jerez as there seemed more variety and better food. Next we moved onto Seville which has really good food and worth a few days, before ending up at the El Bulli hotel which is approx 10kms from Seville. It is very expensive (to stay) but it is very fine. It has a few restaurants including a tapas bar, pool restaurant and La Alqueria that does "El Bulli's" greatest hits - Adria is often there and it is the best way to eat El Buli food without going there (you don't need to stay to eat). We had breakfast, lunch by the pool and dinner in La Alqueria - three very different meals but all with El Bulli touches

Hope this helps - I think I posted details of the trip in approx Oct '07.

[PhilD]

One other thought. If you have not been to San Sebastian you must go. IMO a far better food destination that Barcelona - the tapas are amazing and the restaurants unreal.

I think the first week of August sees the annual International Fireworks Competition which consists of 8 consecutive nightly displays. They are all big (approx. 15 mins) and are really something (and that is from a Sydneysider who has seen plenty of NYE's)

[mr_gimlet]

Holidays in the gimlet household are a result of complex strategic negotiation. I like seeing new things and doing stuff, mrs_g wants to be in a location for a while and just sit around. We also have budget constraints given the duration and exchange rate. We'll miss the fireworks unfortunately as we need to go home at end July. 'Meandering across Spain' is mrs_g's definition of hell.

So the holiday plan will be a few days in Paris, then a week somewhere in each of France, Spain and a side trip to Marrakesh. The places need to be affordable and on public transport.

[PhilD]

I hear what you say - I have exactly the same challenge. Our 21 day meander across Spain was great but lots of driving. The last week I detailed in my first post was much more relaxing, however I am not certain I would recommend staying in one place for an entire week, unless you get a nice villa and do a lot of day trips. The journey times and road are pretty good around this part of Andalusia so driving isn't too bad - but I couldn't vouch for public transport.

Another idea is to look at Biarritz in France and San Sebastian. Biarritz is an EasyJet flight, or TGV from Paris, and then you can get a local train across the border to San Sebastian (approx. 40 mins, a couple of trains an hour). The local train network from Biarritz down to Bilbao is pretty good and means you can tour around various resorts and areas of cultural interest quite easily.

We had a great long weekend there last year. Biarritz is quite surf orientated as it is on the Atlantic, it has good beaches and a pretty laid back feel - we found a couple of really good bars and some very good casual restaurants. One bar is out on a rocky promontory was perfect for a few sun-downers. The surrounding Pay-Basque countryside has a few culinary gems. And of course San Sebastian and the Spanish Basque region is even better for food. It is a great way to do a two country/two culture holiday without too much travel.

We are going to do Southern France, and Northern Spain this year in much the same way. We plan to start in Montpellier and then head south (via Roses) to Barcelona. Hopefully a modest amount of travel with lots to see and eat.