Venice: The Great Binge of '09
We had calories to spend. We’d saved for months: with every bite at every meal we’d longed for this. My wife was retiring and we were returning to the city where we’d had at least one trip every year since the early ‘90’s. We flew on United miles, stayed with Starwood points-we had money to spend, too. Reservations for every night, even a rental car for a day’s trip to expand the area of the binge. Two nights at Alle Testiere, Fiaschterria Toscana, the intriguing Il Ridotto, Il Refolo too along with a castle in Bassano en Grappa, visits to Asolo and Soave to buy Dal Forno and over a E100 Euro worth of cheese to bring home. And, a half dozen other trattorias and osterias, too.
We were hungry and loaded.
Il Ridotto ( www.ilridotto.com ) is the most interesting restaurant in Venice, one of the most individual in all of Italy. Only two restaurants in the country have a food rating higher than the 55 which Gambero Rosso gave it in a visit last year.
There are five tables and a small adjacent kitchen. At Il Ridotto you are served by the owner, Gianni, who also literally cooks for you. With a wood beamed ceiling, black, tan, brick and mirrored walls and a cream tiled floor framing windows and a door set in stone and lights suspended from the ceiling this is a striking room. A modern interpretation of ancient Venice. It is intimate, special, personal-perfect for Gianni’s presentation.
He owns the enormously successful adjacent Aciugheta pizzeria and wine bar. Because of them he can indulge his passion for what amounts to his own private room here-a loss leader, if you will. Next to Fiaschterria Toscana he has what may be the best wine list in Venice including Querciabella ’06 for E 26 and Dal Forno Valpolicella ’03 for E 110. Perhaps the greatest chianti classico and the greatest Valpolicella of all, both at reasonable prices (for what they are) and part of the thick volume which he presents. They compliment his oversize, bound menu which is an artful edition of its own. Each has a different contemporary painting of a Venetian scene on the front and back covers. One menu is positioned on a pedestal in the corner of the room as you come in. A tasteful presentation which compliments the Rosenthal and Versace porcelain and the dramatic, oversized Spieglau stems presented at the table.
The amuse featured a violet colored whipped potato base which had a grilled, thin sheet of pasta wrapped shrimp nestled on it. This was topped with bacon and beads of good olive oil in the shallow glass dish. The flesh of the purplish Italian potato was naturally colored and delicious.
A salad followed with lobster, apples, strawberries and baby spinach, drizzled with olive oil and balsamic. Fresh, light, a creative and tasty combination. Fettucine with “a meat ragout of Fassona Piedmontese” was next. The house made fettucine was superb. I have no idea what kind of equipment he made this in but I’ll draw the analogy of making ice cream with rock salt and ice while turning the crank one’s self. The resulting texture is simply superior to any other method for making ice cream. Gianni’s fettucine is the best I have had in almost 30 years of eating throughout Italy. The flavor of the ragout was intense, outstanding. Superlatives for what was a second great dish after the amuse.
Prawn ravioli with scallops, spinach and cauliflower in a creamy white sauce followed. (Note: I do not have a menu so my apology-this is from memory other than several notes which I took.) Another superb pasta dish.
For dessert a zabione with sweet raison wine, cold egg nog, pine nuts, “wild berries” and meringue. Also, his “interpretation of tiramisu.” Sweet, rich, creamy, delicious.
With all of this was his enthusiastic service. Literally, after he took our orders he returned to the kitchen and cooked our meals. Literally, this was his house and an invitation to dine with one of the best chefs in Italy. He enjoyed watching ours’ and others’ reaction to his cuisine, he passionately shared his knowledge and opinions.
Il Ridotto is the best restaurant in Venice. It is an extraordinary experience that when discovered will be one of the most difficult reservations in the world. Ten seats. But it is not known yet. It does not appear in a single travel book in English. Despite raves from Gambero Rosso, L’Espresso and others (all of which appear mounted in the window) Americans have never heard of it. Last Friday night only eight people were in Gianni’s restaurant. I understand that on weeknights often there are only several. But this is as much a reflection of the economy in Venice as it is of a relatively new restaurant waiting to be written about in the world press. Which it will be.
We first visited Alle Testiere fifteen years ago. Along with Da Fiore I first mentioned it on here in 2000 or 2001. (I believe I was the first for both.) Arguably, Alle Testiere is the most difficult reservation in Venice. One month to the day for Friday and Saturday, at least two weeks for weekdays. There are 24 seats in the room with a closet sized kitchen even smaller than Il Ridotto’s. I should note here that Luca (who owns Alle Testiere with his partner who cooks) is a good friend of Gianni’s. But right now, on weeknights, there are empty seats in Alle Testiere. Business is off 25-30%. They still have 40 or so covers on Friday and Saturday but slightly more than half of this through the week. This is a well known restaurant featured in almost every guide book for Venice throughout the world.
Alle Testiere does not feature risotto. In perhaps twenty visits over the years I’ve never had it there. This trip, with two stops five days apart, we asked Luca if we could talk him into a seafood risotto for our last meal in Venice. He said they would do it but interestingly noted that it “takes up two burners on the stove.” One for the pan and one for the broth which much be ladelled warm. The other two burners service the other 22 seats of the restaurant besides ours’. There was an element of self indulgent guilt on my part in asking them to use the two burners for our risotto. (I should mention that I have something of a nortorious reputation on Chowhound for a post of mine from a number of years ago. It was actually labeled “#1” on Chowhound’s Top Ten lists of posts for all time. That’s top ten outrageous posts of all time: http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/2889... IN any event I feel that I “know” risotto.
We arrived early for his first seating. Presentation was a large, shallow serving bowl with a mound of risotto nestled in the middle of each. Both were studded with shrimp, scallops, squid and other fish along with a white, creamy wine laced flavor and texture to the carneroli. A bit of steam rose from the center; I bent over and inhaled letting it waft into my nostrils. Sometimes, it is not just what food tastes like or feels like in one’s mouth. It is also what it smells like. The aroma can frame the taste and the feel. Alle Testiere’s risotto framed a portrait, a Master. Superb, just superb. One of the best dishes we had in the whole trip.
We also had seafood risotto at Fiaschetteria Toscana. Served to us by who may be the most ebullient ambassador of any restaurant in Italy, Roberto. He has been with the restaurant for over 35 years and is a large part of its enormous popularity. A very real passion and love of wine and food he is larger than life, someone rarely found in a restaurant anywhere. Toscana is an excellent restaurant; it is even better because of him. And, it’s 75 page wine list which certainly is one of the longest in the country. Toscana's signature dish is their Bisteca Fiorentina from the white Chiannina. This is a three inch thick Porterhouse drizzled with olive oil and served on a wooden platter.
The surprise of the trip was Il Ritrovo. This is owned by the son of the owners of the Michelin starred Da Fiore (The Met is the other Michelin starred restaurant in Venice and well worth a visit. Creative, imaginative Italian. Not on the level of, say, Le Calandre but excellent for Venice.) Il Ritrovo is a tiny hole in the wall adjacent to a canal in a residential part of the city. It’s “dining room” has five or six small booths but the real attraction are the nine or ten outdoor tables. They are in the middle of a courtyard, surround by walls on three sides and the canal on the fourth. At night there are four lampposts framing the tables along with candles. With the occasional gondola or boat floating by this is one of the most romantic settings in all of Venice.
Il Ritrovo also has Venice’s best pizza. And best calzone. But neither is traditional; both are creative, imaginative incorporating non traditional toppings as well as buffalo mozz. Excellent soup-excellent! As well as a limited menu. This is a special place worth the very real effort to find. If you can, and its warm, go at night when they are open outside. (They are only open outside in the evening when it is warm enough. Daytime they are open, weather permitting, right now.) Il Ritrovo is not just about its excellent food; it is as much about the experience, especially in the evening.
We also visited a number of other restaurants, some of which were disappointing. Included in this is the well publicized Vino Vino which pales as a wine bar next to Aciugheta (which has excellent more traditional pizza, by the way). I should also note that Al Covo has superb fritto misto, perhaps Venice’s best. Today, I would probably choose the Met over Da Fiore which I must admit that I enjoyed more 15 years ago when nobody knew about it and it’s prices were a third of what they are today. It does not seem like a E 300+ dinner for two.
The Hotel Monaco is adjacent to San Marco Square on the Grand Canal. They have a number of tables in the rear of it immediately fronting the canal. Simply, one of the best settings in Venice. Also, one of the most expensive for what they serve. They, as most other restaurants in Venice do, charge for the setting! They just charge a lot. This restaurant has what I believe may be the best pasta e fagiole that I have ever had. It is certainly the most expensive: E 14.00. With a E 6.50 cover just to sit there. Throw in a Caprese salad with Buffalo mozz @ E 18.00 and we knocked off US $125.00 for lunch for two bowls of soup and a couple of salads and a small glass of wine! Despite the soup we will not return.
One day we rented a car and left Venice. For years I have stayed in Soave at the Roxy Plaza, using it as a base for business. We returned to Soave to a little wine shop next to the trattoria, Al Gambero which is just inside the gate. (This was also an excuse to stop at an AutoGrill for a panini along with a jar of Calabrian hot peppers which are the best in the world.) Over the years I’ve found that wine is less expensive in small towns like this, often much less expensive. The Friday night at Il Ridotto I had a bottle of ’03 Dal Forno Valpolicella. This is an expensive wine. It is also, by far, the best Valpolicella I have ever had; in fact it is probably better than 90% of the Amarones I have had. In ’02 he increased the concentration of his wine. His ’03 is his best. (Romano believes his ’04 Amarone is his best ever. I should mention that we are fortunate to have known him and his family for almost ten years. He is incredibly passionate-when he releases his ’04 Amarone next year it may be the wine of one’s lifetime. He has not said this about other vintages.) But the prices for his wine vary greatly, both here and in Italy. At Al Gambero it was E 75 for a bottle; in Venice I found it for E 95 and higher. In restaurants it ranged from E 105 to E 150. For the entire trip I had one bottle at dinner.
We also found a fantastic salumeria in the ancient Asolo with an extremely passionate owner who, perhaps remarkably, believed in giving samples of cheese. For free. I once wrote this about an adventure I had in a cheese shop in Bologna where I gave the proprietor E 20 and he gave me a taste of every cheese he had: http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/2899...
In Asolo, at Salumeria Bacchin (on the main street near the center of the historic town) I didn’t need to talk him into this. When he realized that I truly loved Grappa and cheese he actually brought me several samples of Grappa to taste. (This is the Grappa “region” of the Veneto.) Then we went to the cheese case. With his knife he would lop off a thin slice and hand it to me. At some point he pointed out that he could vacuum pack any cheese or proscuitto that I wanted so I could take it back with me to the States.
I had some money left. And a credit card. One hundred and twenty six Euros later I had my cheese, too! A lot of it! Like four kilos of nine or ten different cheeses, all vacuum packed! This included the best gorgonzola dolce that I have ever tasted anywhere, Gorgonzola Dolce Della Dolomite. This is crusted with herbs which compliment it’s strong, creamy texture with a bit of bite.
Now we are back. But it’s not over. Tonight, I will open several of the vacuum packed bags of cheese (incredible that I didn’t lable them!!!), hoping one is the gorgonzola…or the Alban truffle scented double cream. Perhaps a bottle of Dal Forno, too. This was a great trip for us. We won’t have fifteen trips to Venice in the next fifteen years. We may just have one. But we have memories to last us forever.
Joe ... ok ... thank you, thank you, thank you ... I have been waiting to see how your trip was. It sounds out of this world ... I am so happy for you that it was so memorable ... your report gives ideas and notes for a thousand others to enjoy on future trips. (For those who have not stalked this poster as I have for the wealth of food and wine info that he provides, search Joe H and you will learn a lot about the subject as I have!!) I will repeat myself: YOU NEED TO WRITE A BOOK ... what is out there lacks the detail and thought that you provide, or is otherwise out of date. I have also urged MBFant to update her book ... both of these could be packaged and sold in the millions on a moment's notice -- even in this economic climate. I am curious though, did you go to La Calandre?? I will be in Padua this year, and am thinking how often does a person get that close to such great food and not stop for dinner? The price is steep, however, and a meal for two might actually rival what we would spend for a week of dinners at trats in Italy and still be happy. Anyway, I know you have been before, but I'm not sure you have written about it, and was wondering if you made that stop this time. Anyway, if so, you have to share your experiences! Tell your wife congrats on the retirement and looking forward to many more posts on this and other pages. Ciao and welcome home! PeggyD
Peggy, thank you for your generous, sweet words. They are sincerely appreciated.
You are going to be in Padua? Wow!!!!!!!!!!!! http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/2637... is a post of mine from several years ago. We've been to Le Calandre three times dating back to 2001 when it had one star, then two visits after it received it's third. I honestly believe it is not only the best restaurant in Italy but also one of the best in the world. Unfortunately, from when I wrote my comments about it, the price has gone up: I believe it is now E 200 prix fixe. Still, this is a 4 to 5 hour life changing experience. I'm serious about this last hyperbole: it is extraordinary and unique. But they also serve a la carte. Additionally, they own a little gourmet deli across the street and a coffee bar adjacent to the restaurant. The deli has a number of the raw food stuffs served in the restaurant (i.e. the violane nano he uses in his arborio) as well as an excellent salumeria (one of the best cheeses I've ever had in my life was there, an intense barolo flavored firm cheese which I actually looked for in Asolo). We didn't stop on this trip-Carol wanted to visit Asolo and the nearby Bassano in Grappa. They ended up being worthwhile adventures that I already want to do again. But if you have a chance you may want to give serious consideration to Le Calandre. It is extraordinary: www.calandre.com
By the way, if you are into wine and want another indulgence: either the Dal Forno Valpolicella '03 or Sergio Zenato Amarone '03 which is a bit less expensive, about E 65. Awesome wine. Incredible here, even more amazing there.
Thanks again, Peggy.
Thank you for the beautifully written post. Did the Martin family changed the name from Il Refolo to IL Ritrovo? Also from reading your post, you did not make it to the Met Restaurant on this trip. We had a terrific dinner there two years ago. Am considering returning for another meal there this April and am wondering if you had any recent experiences. Thank you again for the post.
Joe, your post is an inspiration. The next time in Venice I am going to throw caution to the wind and prices be damned. I've vacuumed packed cheeses back to the States before but never gorgonzola. I was always nervous after the long travel it would transform into a delicious "crema di gorgonzola." Again, you've inspired me to give it a go. I can't wait to try Il Retrovo.
Joe Thank you so much for the inspiration & information. We are leaving for Venice the end of April. We begin a 12 day cruise of Italy in Venice, and we have 3 nights in Venice prior to our cruise. I will certainly contact Il Ridotto by email to get reservations. I do have one question, one of the persons in our group is not a fish eater at all. Will they do OK at the restaurant? This will be our 2nd time to Venice, last time on a cruise also, but we managed to find a local place that the gondoliers pointed us to. Thanks again Kathy
Thanks to everyone for the very nice words.
PBSF, a sincere apology!!!! The name IS Il Refolo: http://www.dafiore.net/refolo_gb.htm I have no idea where the other name came from!! (I wish I had the ability to edit my comments above! In fact I should have proof read what I wrote rather than just typing and pressing post.) Thank you for noting this-it is not just very good but it is also a special experience in the evening. We were at The Met several years ago, just after it received it's Michelin star. The only reason we haven't returned is that as on this trip we rented a car and drove to Soave and Asolo, on other trips we have rented a car and gone to Le Calandre in Rubano just outside of Padua or elsewhere for a special dinner. Il Ridotto and Testiere are entirely different kinds of experiences with different food. Also, much "simpler" settings. If you are staying in Venice the whole time I would return to the Met. I would include Il Ridotto, too. I must add, too, that with your experiences at Arzak and Gagnaire if you are able to go to Le Calandre you should really consider it. It IS the best restaurant in Italy.
Badwaiter, we haven't opened the gorgonzola yet but several of the other cheeses (which were "harder") have been fine.
Kathfootball, they should be fine at Il Ridotto although I should note that most of Venice's better restaurants are known for fish, especially Alle Testiere. Fiaschetteria Toscana would be an exception to this especially for its bisteca.
re: Joe H
Thank you for the enthusiastic prodding to dine at Le Calandre. We at had an excellent lunch there in 2005 but have not had an opportunity to returned. The cost of their tasting menus have really escalated since. We are considering returning in April and order from the a la carte menu: maybe risotto, the pigeon and suckling pig, dishes that we really love from that visit. This might keep cost in check and also we've increasing find that there is just too much food in tasting menus. Must be our age that cause this palate and stomach fatigue. We'll also check out their ever expanding food empire. On our yearly month long staying in Venice, we mostly cook in our apartment rather than dine out. It is more and more difficult to get us out of the Venice routine but after reading your post, we'll definitely make a day trip to Asolo to take in the ancient sights and visit Salumeria Bacchin. Cheese is a dangerous territory for the pocketbook as well as the waistline. Thank you again for taking the time to write so beautifully.