Scaramouche review

[Cat123]

A group of 6 of us had dinner at Scaramouche this week and had a really lovely evening in the dining room.

Much of the room is looking pretty dated (especially the chairs, which look like they were taken from a York U dorm room), but they have taken steps to update parts of it. Initial welcome was warm and inviting. The view is great although we weren’t seated right by the window.

The menu was consistent with what was posted online. 3 of us had their special “Crustacean Celebration” menu which focuses on crab but also incorporates lobster, scallop and shrimp. That menu was also identical to what was posted.

We had brought a special bottle of wine which was received by our server and then served later in the dinner with no issues (corkage is $30).

We were served a huge bread basket with about 5 different types of bread – baguette, walnut, sesame, and a few others. They were all excellent and served with a nicely salted butter.

For an amuse, we were served a wonderful smoked trout canapé – I could have eaten just that for the entire dinner and been happy.

Appetizers – 2 of us had the steak tartare, which is served with toasts, a quail egg and a salad with truffle dressing. The tartare was of very high quality although the recipients were split on their view – one loved it and one found it not quite piquant enough. I tried it and thought it was very good but perhaps a touch too sour – would have benefited from a slight seasoning adjustment. Our table also ordered one each of the 3 “Crustacean” starters. The crab Caesar had a very large portion of crab and was pronounced excellent. The crab ravioli with scallop was served as one beautifully seared scallop and one large ravioli (which was good but the crab taste was a bit lost in the different sauces and what I think was parmesan cheese). The tian of avocado and crab was served with foams and sauces – it was the most complex dish flavour wise and presentation wise as it also incorporated citrus and chiles - looked really beautiful and the flavours all worked.

Mains – Our table had 2 of the 3 Crustacean-menu mains – the crab and lobster risotto was lovely with a very high fish to rice ratio. It was an extremely rich dish that incorporated Meyer lemon as a seasoning – really fantastic acid/fat balance. The other main from the menu we tried was the crab cake and cod dish – served in a deconstructed style with a romesco mayonnaise and some fried peppers. Pronounced excellent but looked a bit plain. The other dishes we tried were from the main menu – the sea bream, the venison and the mushroom pasta. All were pronounced perfectly cooked and very tasty. One item to note, though, was that the special menu items seemed to be significantly smaller in size than the regular menu dishes we received. This may have been a fluke but it was noticeable.

Desserts – after hearing so much about the coconut cream pie, we had to try this. I have to say, I was mre than a bit disappointed. The serving was huge, the pastry was nice, but the filling seemed a bit blah. I don’t know what I expected but the dried coconut and whipped cream combo wasn’t quite the “coconut cream” I thought it would be. We also tried the ice cream sandwich, which was just that – not much different from a grocery store brand. The crème brulee was really good though – by far the strongest dessert.

Service throughout was quite good and not very noticeable (I mean that in a good way). We never once had to ask for anything – it just appeared.

The wine list is very well chosen with lots of reasonably priced choices available. We had a lovely Vouvray that was $58 per bottle (as well as the bottle we brought along from home). I was pleasantly surprised at the variety they offer, particularly from lesser-known regions, especially compared to some similarly-priced restos where wine is much more exhorbitantly marked up and the list is less broad.

The room was about 75% full while we were there and not too loud where we were seated, which was against a wall.

Other than the desserts, the unanimous consensus was that the food was superlative. I do think it ranks among Toronto’s top spots. We inquired as to whether there was any update on their lease renewal, and were told that they are still “in discussions”. Stay tuned…

[Sadistick]

We are heading to Scaramouche for a dinner next week (against my vow to not return after my disastrous last meal there) so my question now is, does the crustacean menu (3 course) take place of the tasting menu? Is the tasting menu anything other than what is on the regular dinner menu?

Edit - answered my own question, no tasting menu while this event is going on.

[Ediblethoughts]

That menu looks really good! Any idea how long this Crustacean Celebration is to last?

[foodyDudey]

Somewhere on the website, it mentions that April 9 is the last day.

[1sweetpea]

I dined in the pasta bar a few years ago with four or five guests and I recall struggling with the pasta options. Nearly everything on offer was in a creamy sauce, butter sauce or else really meaty. I was hoping for something light and seafood-oriented, but the seafood options all had cream. My SO hates it when I go all type-A and ask for customization when we're with his family, so I let the server talk me into a ravioli of some kind that had a buerre-noisette sauce (against my health-oriented desires). I found the ravioli so delicately seasoned that the only real flavour was butter, which doesn't thrill me. After the dinner, the two of us remarked that our apps and mains were pretty unremarkable, though the coconut pie was certainly decadent. I liked it, but didn't swoon. They had brought us one slice and five forks. The piece was mammoth, but it's possible that they cut it generously because five people were partaking (and they know my SO's parents love that pie).

[Ediblethoughts]

I love the main dining room at Scaramouche but I personally don't think the Pasta Bar is worth the time and money. Nice view as per the rest of the restaurant but there are tons of Italian places in Toronto that do pasta better (and better priced).

[juno]

It's called the Pasta Bar, and, indeed, when it first opened as an adjunct to the main room - more than 20 years ago, as I recall - it had an overwhelmingly pasta menu. But nowadays, while there are still pastas on the menu, many of the dishes have nothing to do with pasta. In fact, after the first few years, I don't think I've ever had pasta there. In short, lots of choice other than pasta, and very well done just about every time out. And given the venue, appropriately priced. The liver dish, when it's on the menu, along with the rendition offered by Pastis Express, is the tastiest I've encountered in Toronto (and I've tried about a dozen).

As for the coconut cream pie being overhyped, well, given the resto business, everything good gets overhyped eventually. It's a good pie, well executed and a wonderfully satisfying end to dinner at Scaramouche (if you're not already stuffed), but it won't change your life any more than the best burger, pizza, falafel or fish and chips - other well-attended and continuing threads on this board - will.

[BokChoi]

Thanks for the review Cat123. Dining companions recently dined at Scaramouche and had their lobster menu as well. They loved it. Seems like a good safe bet in Toronto. On the occasions I've been there, I wasn't wowed by the food. But it is what it is - safe, classic fare. I tend to like something a little different, so Scaramouche is just not for me. I would echo your sentiments about the pie. Had it twice, and never enjoyed it. Tasted like something I could whip up at home.

[Cat123]

BokChoi - to your comment on safe, classic fare - I actually didn't find much of the food, particularly on the special menu, to be "safe" or in many cases, classic at all - I hadn't been there before and was actually impressed at how "modern" the food (including a real emphasis on vegetables) and flavour combinations were. I'm sure that they have the safe stuff too - but I was really impressed as it's not the type of restaurant I would typically frequent either (and in fact, I had never been there before).

[magic]

Ya I'm not sure I agree with the idea that Scaramouche is safe. I agree with cat123 in that they incorporate modern with classic so seamlessly it might appear safe but really, I just think it's skill. I don't know… I don't see tons of fine dining spots doing their own take on ban xeo pancakes and braised and grilled veal brisket on the same menu. Both of which I had on my last jaunt there were jaw-droppingly delicious and unexpected. While I might not be a cheerleader for their coconut cream pie I certainly would put their food amongst the finest in the city. And their service, to me, has always been incredible and consistent.

[millygirl]

Agreed! I've not had anything there I didn't enjoy and each time we go I leave wanting more, and can't wait for the next time. Butter poached lobster, seared tuna, steak and frites, done to perfection. I have not had better service anywhere in T.O.

[BokChoi]

That's fair enough. One's classic/safe is another's adventurous. I'm sure that things I find exciting are very ho-hum to others and just depends on experience. Personally, I would classify Scaramouche as safe and classic just because of what I would consider the basic standard I would come to expect when dining out (otherwise, I would just eat in). Something like WD50 in NYC, or Clio in Boston I would classify as a bit more avant garde (something I wouldn't be able to devise at home). Another who has dined in El Bulli or French Laundry would probably yawn at both of my suggestions.
The special menu does sound much nicer than their standard one on their website:

http://www.scaramoucherestaurant.com/...

The ingredient pairings/sauces/tilts of the menu seem quite conventional to me. Dining companions love it. But from my perspective, it's a bit boring. Good, but it just didn't blow me away.

[phoenikia]

Well said, BokChoi;)

[estufarian]

How dare you mention El Bulli and French Laundry in the same sentence! (Joking!). I'm on your side with 'safe' at Scaramouche - in the sense that it's consistent every time and uses (mostly) fresh ingredients. Techniques such as sous-vide have been common for over 10 years - but weren't used in the mainstream. Similarly, foams (which were hardly used at El Bulli in the past 10 years) have become commonplace - and my be viewed as 'cutting edge' by many people - certainly even professionsl reviewers seem to tag anybody who serves a foam as 'molecular gastronomy' - although I still haven't seen anybody whisk molecules.
Scaramouche sticks to conventional 'french heritage' sauces - no licorice lamb for them.
And I don't recall French Laundry as being particularly inventive in recent years. Just an extension of what Chez Panisse started but with a solid French technique. Jean-Georges (for example) is more experimental than French Laundry - and he's nowhere near a wd-50 which is indeed extraordinary. On my annual pilgrimages to wd-50 I find the entire menu has changed - and new techniques are used regularly ('fractured foie gras' anyone).
Regardless of how modern - you made the right point - different people have diifferent tastes and experiences. There's a place (I hope) for both. I would happily return to Scaramouche; would make a long detour to wd-50 and not cross the street for French Laundry!

[phoenikia]

re: estufarian Re: French Laundry- good to know. I visit northern CA fairly regularly, but I've never managed to dine at French Laundry. Would you cross the street for Manresa?

Re: foams becoming commonplace...
wanted to report that foams can now be found in Kitchener/Waterloo. The daily soup at Sole in Waterloo was a cream of mushroom soup with espresso foam last night. Haven't noticed any foams on any menus in London, ON yet, but it looks like they might be heading west.

[estufarian]

Manresa is my current favourite in Northen CA. But the price has crept (leaped) up recently so I'd certainly return - only less frequently. Definitely worth a detour.

[BokChoi]

Hi estufarian,

French Laundry was that bad, eh? I was quite impressed with Jean-Georges' techniques during my lunch there last summer. Great usage of unusual flavours. That was part of what I was alluding to when I indicated I felt Scaramouche's flavours were too 'safe' and conventional. They were indeed very classic French in technique. Lots of creams and butters, neither of which I am a fan of.

Perhaps I tried the wrong dishes during my two visits to Scaramouche - do you have any suggestions? I guess the dishes rotate quite frequently. But I do find I was not at all impressed by the lemon pie. DC's enjoyed it, with one loving it.

[phoenikia]

Coconut cream, BokChoi;) I might have liked it more if it was lemon;)

[BokChoi]

That's right. Ha. It was such an unmemorable dessert that I forgot what it was. Thanks for the correction phoenikia.

[estufarian]

No - you called it (Scaramouche) right. It's just "safe". But so are (most) steak houses. That doesn't mean they're bad. And Scaramouche is one of the best 'safe' places around.
As for FL - it's up & down. But the service (for me) was WAY down - every time I felt like I wasn't wanted (twice at FL and once at Per Se - at the latter I took the manager outside after 45 minutes (didn't want other patrons to overhear) and listed everything that had gone wrong (so far). After that thjings picked up considerably (and they comped me some old Madeira as an apology) - but no free meal this time (it's not a Truffles). And nobody followed up to apologize. Not worth ranting further.

[BokChoi]

Yes, agreed. One of the best places for a safe meal. I would recommend it (and have in the past) for classic fare.

Wow, that experience sounds terrible with the Keller restaurants. I see you are not a fan of either. Good thing I have yet to waste money at either one. That was wonderful how Truffles dealt with the meal issue that time. It is rare that restaurants would comp a meal like that. I hope that is how they treat all their customers. Maybe I'll actually speak up after my next horrid meal out. Thanks for the advice.

[estufarian]

ALWAYS be very polite and specific. I didn't ask for comps, but 'good' restaurants always want a paying client to return.
Incidentally at per Se I wrote asking for a response. When I didn't get one I wrote again. Then again. At the 4th attempt they responded - but they knew that they'd lost me by then, so no compensation offered.
I know it sounds as if I do this all the time - but maybe 5 times LIFETIME - just 2 of these came up in this thread(and 2 of the 3 others were in Toronto).

[BokChoi]

Thanks estufarian. Makes sense to be polite and specific. It helps the restaurant improve their missteps. I have only complained twice in my lifetime on minor (small ticket items) things, but it has never done me any good. That is why I often don't bother. One time was when the Loblaws at 401 and Brimley sold me mold-laced cookies (they were green and fuzzy on the bottoms) and the second when a Mac's convenience store sold me some sour milk. The sour milk people didn't bother even refunding my cash. Both times it was such a hassle on my part to inform them that they had bad products on their shelves, and none of them even bothered to remove the product from their shelves immediately. I had to call back and complain to head office. Once again, not even an apology. That's customer service I guess.

[stonedtoronto]

Great review! I've always found Scaramouche to be a great restaurant. I've always thought it was safe in the sense that I could go there with a date, and not have to worry about the restaurant having an "off" night.

I also agree with the coconut creme pie...it's good. But doesn't deserve all the hype. There's plenty of desserts there that impress. Actually I am thinking of going there this weekend maybe just for the desserts. I remember their lime tart to be really really....really good.

As for the lease...I have no idea what's going on there. The last time I was there, my waiter said they were looking at a condo on Yonge and St. Clair. I hope they don't move though...that view is what makes the restaurant so special. Funny though...as much as I love Scaramouche, I always raise an eyebrow at the $8 charge for water, lol.

[Teep]

Great, nice to know they are consistently good with the crustacean menu. And glad to see that someone agrees with me regarding the coconut cream pie! :-)

[magic]

Great review, I agree that Scaramouche is ridiculously good. But that’s not saying much, we all know that.

I will say I agree with your coconut cream pie assessment. It’s pretty much the only "letdown" I’ve ever had there. I never quite understood why it is so revered. Your comments on it mirror my thoughts exactly. That said, it’s not bad, just not all that great.

Otherwise, Scaramouche is pretty much perfect in my books.

[juno]

If you're prepared to pop about $200 a couple (with wine), Scaramouche is a winner. And as Cat123 has attested, the wine list is remarkably well-priced, given the level at which the restaurant is pitched. Indeed, there are mediocre restos around town - restos that just truck the wine in, stash it wherever and sell it off - that charge more for the same wines than Scaramouche, with its wide range of wines and temperature-controlled wine cellar. I was in a modest little Indian resto last week (modest except for its wine prices) than wanted more for Segura Viudas, a good Spanish sparkler, than Scaramouche charges ($38, last I looked). I don't go to Scaramouche often, but when I do it seems like money well spent. I even like the coconut cream pie. It's a satisfying end to what's invariably an eminently enjoyable dinner.

[phoenikia]

re: the coconut cream pie- also not impressed. Won't be ordering that again.

I hope Scaramouche will add more non-creamy desserts to their prix fixe specials in the future. All the desserts during Lobsterlicious were creamy and dairy-based, as are all the desserts offered during their current Crustacean Celebration.

http://www.scaramoucherestaurant.com/...

And restaurants in TO, enough of the creme brulee already! Bring back the chocolate mousse.

Re: the crustacean celebration- what kind of crab are they using?

[TorontoJo]

Amen to chocolate mousse! Trio has chocolate mousse regularly on their dessert menu and it's quite yummy. I generally stay away from chocolate desserts at restaurants these days because they all seem to be going for chocolate overload. But chocolate mousse hits the spot.

[phoenikia]

Good to know, TorontoJo! Still have to check Trio out;)

[Cat123]

I believe they are using King Crabs from Norway.

[phoenikia]

Thanks!

[skylineR33]

Is the crab dish prepared with frozen King crab or fresh live King crab from Norway ? Thanks.

[Cat123]

I believe they are flash frozen and uncooked when they arrive at the restaurant - see Globe and Mail article (which includes the recipe for the Crab Caesar):

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servle...

[OTFOODIE]

I saw that article. Their recipe for Caesar dressing is almost the same as mine, except that I only use the yolk, and the technique: I do everything by hand in the bowl. I was surprised that Scaramouche would be doing their dressing in a blender. I don't go to high-end restaurants much, but does nobody do their Caesar the old fashioned way?

[Blueicus]

Usually places that do Caesar that way also have people doing tableside service (i.e. flambees, etc.) It's just not practical to make dressing to order in a timely manner at any restaurant, fine dining or otherwise.