Macau 1 day trip (again!)
remember this thread? http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/577312 haha
well I might be visiting M. Robuchon at Macau this coming Satursday, here's my prelininary iteneary. Will be eating at all the places listed but have to choose just 1 Portugese. Please help me add/remove restaurants!!
Faux-Shark's Fin http://www.openrice.com/restaurant/sr2.htm?shopid=24553
Charcoal "waffles" http://www.openrice.com/restaurant/sr2.htm?shopid=24442 (blog link http://hk.myblog.yahoo.com/choro-q/article?mid=43167)
Dai Pai Dong, Fried noodles etc http://www.openrice.com/restaurant/sr2.htm?shopid=25019 (blog link http://hk.myblog.yahoo.com/choro-q/article?mid=43099)
Tandoor-roasted meat stuffed "buns" http://www.openrice.com/restaurant/sr2.htm?shopid=24201
Luk Kee (repeat) http://www.openrice.com/restaurant/sr2.htm?shopid=24155
Pig brain noodles http://www.openrice.com/restaurant/sr2.htm?shopid=24047
3 types of crab blend congee and steamed eel http://www.openrice.com/restaurant/sr2.htm?shopid=23944
Birmanes Noodles http://www.openrice.com/restaurant/sr2.htm?shopid=24046
Vinegar braised pork foot http://www.openrice.com/restaurant/sr2.htm?shopid=25197
Pork chop bun and portugese tarts http://www.openrice.com/restaurant/sr2.htm?shopid=24350 been to the famous ones already
Dumplings and duck blood "jelly" http://www.openrice.com/restaurant/sr2.htm?shopid=24447
...and Robuchon Galeria of course.
Portuguese restaurant candidates: (we've already been to Fernando's and A Lorcha)
O Porto http://www.openrice.com/restaurant/sr2.htm?shopid=24003
Clube Militar http://www.openrice.com/restaurant/sr2.htm?shopid=24089
so to combine my (HKer perspective) findings from all the trips:
"must eat" = unique to Macau
潘榮記's charcoal toasted "waffles"
六記粥麵's shrimp roe tossed noodles, wontons
東京小食館's Pig brain & offal, sour & spicy tossed noodles
Robuchon Galeria's "value" lunch or gastronomical dinner
鳳城珠記麵食專家's fish-meat as wrapper dumplings, duck blood "royale"
Fernand's & A lorcha's roasted suckling pig, grilled sardines, sweet-tasting fries, bacahau (whole and croquetted), clams
Lord Stow's & Margaret's tarts (Stow better pastry, Margaret better custard)
洪馨's coconut and taro "sorbet"
保健牛奶's milk "panna cotta" chinois, ginger coagulated milk
"good eat" = on par with the best of HK
添發碗仔翅美食's demi-faux shark fin soup
華軒美食(細龜)'s fried noodles, deep fried "fish balls", oyster "omlette"
台灣帝鈞碳烤胡椒餅's tandoor roasted spiced-meat "buns"
三元粥品's "duo" of minced pork and beef balls congee with raw egg yolk
祥記's shrimp roe tossed noodles, deep fried rice-crusted 鯪魚球, fish skin "salad"
大利來記's ultra-thick bone-in pork chop (buns are standard, not worth queueing)
晃記餅家's 肉切酥剩 & walnut cookie
禮記雪糕's traditional-HK ice cream "bar"
"alright" = easily findable in HK, no real point
誠昌飯店's 3-types-of-crabs blend congee, preserved black beans steamed eel
雅馨緬甸餐廳's coconut sauce noodles with chicken and deep fried dough-stocks, spicy and sour tossed noodles
馮記三盞燈豬腳姜's Chinese vinegar braised pork feet
強記咖啡's brew on a stove coffee
氹仔峰景's crab congee, preserved black beans steamed eel
Domgalo's "puri" chicken, bacahau croquette
鴻彬記小食店's beef offal
義順牛奶's panna cotta, pork chop buns, spicy fish buns
頤德行(李康記)'s silken tofu & soya milk
Santos's everything (very dissapointed given the hype)
佛笑樓大餐廳's & 小飛象葡國餐廳's everything (was forced by "friends" to eat there)
hope this if of use, 6am, must sleep =)
had no breaks during the day and was only finished at night after 1, so only got to Luk Kee at 1:30. wontons - very thin skin, lean quenelle-d pork, small flavourful and natural-textured (instead of the artificially-bouncy) shrimps and good amounts of dry fish = yielding a very good wonton (one of the best i've eaten). shrimp roe tossed noodles - roe were very gently toasted so the "seafood" aromas were preserved (as supposed to the "smokey" taste at Cheung Kei), gentle splash of lard and sweet soy sauce/oyster sauce works very well, the noodles were surprisingly "soft" with no bite (which is fine by me but i expected it to be chewy given they use the bamboo shaft method), although the complete absense of alkaline taste partially explains it. To be sure I had a noodles in soup with braised pork intestines and chicken feet (their self claimed special) and again the noodles were soft. I noticed the to be cooked noodles were placed very near the large pot of water used for cooking, so that may have something to do with it, maybe the high humidity/low temperature also? I actually like this soft-ish texture compared to the rubber band like ones in HK. The intestines and chicken feet were very ordinary, as well as the deep fried wontons (they ran out of the deep fried rice coated "fish balls"). Service is SLOW, took 20 min for food to arrive because a) 1 stove to 100 seating + takeaway order b) only 1 chef who cooks, cuts (veg), dresses (sauce) & plates (garnish), so when she does the non-cooking the stove is idle c) she has no "boiling baskets" that allow the pot to simutaneously cook several batches of orders, instead each item (noodle,veg,wonton etc) will use up the whole stove. not complaining.
as we were eating we saw "turtle" the outdoor dai pai dong start to close (?!?!?!?!?) turns out he ran out of hor fun for this famous stir fried beef hor fun (supposed to be our next eats)....so we had to settle with a squid (the blanched kind not fresh) fried noodles, good "wok hai", well caramelised with a slight charring around the edges, good level of oil-less-ness...if Luk Kee served its noodles faster we would have been able to try the beef-hor...
Good to hear that you validate my opinion on how good the wanton noodle is at Luk Kee but surprised you find the chicken feet and intestine ordinary. I thought they were really good, the braised chicken feet was better than any dim sum place I had in Hong Kong. The intestines were well cleaned out, very smooth and delicious. Yes, agree they are very slow especially if one is used to Hong Kong pace. But isn't that one of the reasons why some Hong Kongers find Macau charming since they can get away from such pressure?
"turtle"'s wok hei should be really good judging from the DVD footage I watched on Choi Lam's show. Will have to try it next time.
Hello Fourseasons! Back to normal! Sigh!!!!!!
Talking about braised chicken feet, though a bit more 'upscale', you should give the ' Braised chicken feet with abalone and oyster sauce' at Causeway Bay's Farm House a try. Very plump feet, very tender and very yummy. Especially the sauce! You can get them as part of their 'prix fixe' luncheon menu. May be you can pop over to DD and get some bread from them to mop up the sauce! Ha!
you're right, they were pretty good, but I wrote "ordinary" because a) I set expectations way too high b) compared to the shrimp row they were "ordinary" c) I could have made it myself haha
quality > speed so I wouldn't want them to change their cooking system to improve speed...it's just weird siting at the table next to the cooking station, watching her cook for 20 minutes but with nothing to eat haha
I asked "turtle" and he said usually he doesn't run out of hor fun so I was just extremely unlucky.....
Didn't go to 細龜 and Luk Kee because Robuchon dinner ended at 1am....but I'm returning this Saturday to try them!
添發碗仔翅' - is alright, stock is rich in flavour, nice mouth feel without being starchy, nothing gastronomical. Close to 三元粥品 (which is good) so no harm trying the combo.
潘榮記's Charcoal "waffles" - yum! Old man has some skill, the waffles are lightly leavened, good custard flavour, lightly sweetened, $10 for a bagfull. On way to the Sao Paulo so why not?
帝鈞碳烤胡椒餅's tandoor roasted spiced-meat "buns" - pretty yummy! "tender" yet flakey-crispy layers with a succulent well spiced pork rillette. Not "unique" to macau but a good snack.
Maltose-Biscuit-Sandwich was closed argh.
頤德行's silken tofu - rubbish. No bean flavour and had texture of a jelly, partially explains why they serve it with evaporated milk. What was ChuaLam thinking...
東京小食館's pig brain - WIN! Think foie gras mixed with sweetbreads mixed with pork belly. It's well cleaned with a good hint of "organ" flavour, texture is godsend. The spicy-sour tossed noodles with their pickled chillies is really appetizing and perfect match for the brain.
祐記龍鬚糖 - ok. Dude really "puts his heart into it", well worth watching him make the sweets although the taste is not as spectacular as one might expect (takes 5 minutes to make 12 pieces)
誠昌飯店 - fail. Classic case of curiosity kills the cat, knew it was no longer good, knew it was tourist trap....congee had little crab roe (it was white with yellow strands - yolks not roe), the crab meat was mushy (frozen). $100 could have bought a nice crab for DIY
雅馨緬甸餐廳 - good, coconut sauce noodles was surprisingly "light" given the appearance, very yummy on a cold day. The "home style cold noodles" was good too, with garlic chips and candided ginger fish sauce chilli oil etc. 1 minute walk from the brain noodles and 3 min walk from the 祐記龍鬚糖
馮記三盞燈's vinegar braised pork foot - ok standard quality, easily findable in HK, no point going, although it's just 10 sec walk from pig brain noodle so.
新好利美食餅店 - FAIL. Pork chop was thin and dry even though it had nice browning. Bun was simply toasted instead of baked (i.e. 1mm of "crunchiness" followed by stale). Portugese tarts were saturated with margarine (as supposed to butter-lard), the crust was soggy, custard not eggy. Go for the real thing and Stow or Margaret...
鴻彬記小食 beef offal - ok, nothing special compared the offerings in HK.
晃記餅家 pretty good cookies, they use butter+lard (!!!), nice to find a "real" store among the tourist traps.
沙度娜 - fail. no idea why people like their "dusted" "iced-trans-fats"
鳳城珠記麵食專家 - WIN! A ravioli of fish meat as the skin with more fish meat and pork as the filling, wah! The "dumpling" was full of mushrooms and wood ear mushroom, the soup is from toasted fish, so everything together becomes a umami-bomb.
Robuchon Galeria - needs a seperate post.
Didn't have time (did have the appetite) for Portugese...
Wow...is that 1 or 2 days of eating? Incredible! I don't think I can eat even half that in 2 days. Thanks for the review. It makes me wonder if 頤德行 is the one Choi Lam reviewed??? Anyway, I have marked down 東京小食館, 鳳城珠記 and 雅馨 as the ones I will try on my next trip to Macau. It seem like there are plenty of good noodles there!
鳳城珠記麵食專家: apparently, there are 3 branches. http://www.openrice.com/restaurant/sr...
One of the reviewers wrote 榮記荳腐 inferior to 頤德行, seem not as smooth and more expensive!!!
Macau also has a few well known curry chicken feet noodle shops. If I found that article, I will let you know the name of the shops.
Ok, I finally found the article on curry chicken noodle shops. I figure if you can eat all those on your list in 12 hours, what is the big deal of adding 2 more places for your trip on Saturday.
First is 青州劉記. Though the signature dish is supposed to be 咖哩雞絲撈麵, for whatever reasons, those reviews on openrice.com focus on its pork chop. There you go, another pork chop for you to try if you are interested. http://www.openrice.com/restaurant/sr2.htm?shopid=25695
Second is 趙德記. Its 咖喱雞脚撈麵 is supposed to be good. Only 1 review on openrice.com but focus on its wanton shrimp roe noodle. http://www.openrice.com/restaurant/sr...
Too much noodles??? Anyway, if you try, let me know what you think.
Back in Toronto!
Had my last bowl of Won ton noodle at Airport's Hang Heung's Kitchen. Ha! Turned out to be one of the best in HK !!
That Macau eating spree of yours was AMAZING!!! If I hadn't met you during my HK trip, I would have thought that list/appetite belongs to the 'Incredible Hulk! '
Had a Rose essence soya free range chicken for dinner tonight. It tasted even better than HK Sha Tin's Jockey Club - Oi Shuen Restaurant's house special soya chicken!!! The Jockey's Club kitchen is supposed to be one of HK's best! Interesting!
Looking forward to your Robuchon's post!
re: Charles Yu
Yes my chow-friend! One of HK's best Won-ton Noodle to be had at the airport! Actually, Hang Heung Kitchen has branches in the New World Centre, TST; Megabox, Kln Bay and The Arcade, Cyberport. Do give it a try.! Very very decent fine al-dente noodles, plump crisp won-ton and flavourful aromatic broth with abundant roasted flounder flavour. The penny hot sauce ( jar jeung mien ) was very good too. In the same league, if not better than Mak Man Kee! However, airport pricing is on the average $5 more than in-town pricing!
Have to get back to work. Guess no time to do any comprehensive posting. Review of 'ALL' my HK meals??!! Thats 16 days of eating!! Ha! Ha! Love your sense of humour!
Still find time to eat though! Will be attending a Toronto chowmeet next Tuesday to sample some 'Tamil' style Indian curries/food!
re: Charles Yu
I am really surprised too you selected this place with the best wonton noodle!!!! I have actually been to this place many times before the departure but I have always selected the Singapore style rice noodle 星洲炒米 (though this is not a Singapore dish and not available in Singapore) here. With so many varieties in this Cha Cheng Teng style restaurant, it is quite tough to believe the wonton noodle here is better than those specialists in town!!!
I guess I must have picked their forte?! I also had their Chui Hau Beef brisket and tendons which, though very tender, was very salty. Mak Man Kee's version was way better! So you win some, you lose some?! BTW, I went to Wan Chai to try out Wing Wah's version since they claim by using 'Sharks bone', their broth is one of the finest. However, to me its nothing special. So I guess its a matter of palette and taste.
1 Day is definitely not enough for you!!! Are you going to have dinner or lunch at Robuchon?
細龜 Dai Pai Dong is supposed to be very good, according to my Macau friend. Especially its 乾炒牛河 is really famous! It is just right at the corner street from Luk Kee. I was in a hurry to catch the Cirque du Soleil show after I left Luk Kee so I did not have time to pack this dish.
Luk Kee is one of my favorite places. Go there at 6-6:15pm to grab a table. The place opens at 6:30pm, but you will have to queue if you arrive at 6:30pm or after then. Don't forget to order the 米通鯪魚球 and 滷水鳳爪拼大腸 on top of the wonton and shrimp roe noodle. My saliva is already dripping when I am writing this last sentence...
The silken tofu seem to be featured on "Choi-Lam"'s DVD on Macau cuisine. He said it is really good, better than Hong Kong's scene. Let me know if it is good. I will try it next time.
One of the hidden secrets is that Macau has pretty good Burmese noodles. But the location is less convenient for visitors as they are located at 三盞燈, a residential area. Let me know if Toung King (pig brain noodle) or Birmanes is better, I am interested to try it on next trip. For health reason, it seem Birmanes is a better deal!
I have been to 誠昌. It was very crowded (during boom time, not sure the situation now). My wife likes the crab congee; I am not a big fan of congee so it is just average for me. You can also order crab congee at Luk Kee as well, so in my opinion, just go to Luk Kee and skip this one unless your stomach can take on another meal.
Litoral is good. Quite similar to A Lorcha, they are both on the same street, (also both start with capital "L") so I always get confused with both of them. But both are good and famous for Macau food.
Do you want to consider Old Neptune at Venetian? They serves bamboo noodle too, but it is a high end place, just the opposite of Luk Kee with good ambiance and more expensive stuffs: http://www.venetianmacao.com/en/show/... . I love the crab e-mee, Crispy turnip tender beef haslet ( 蘿蔔牛什), steam fish 方利 or 龙利 (but very expensive!!!). Of course, for the gamblers, they can order abalone congee etc.
A good Macau-style dim sum + shark fin restaurant (outside of hotels) is Noble House, right behind Golden Dragon Hotel.
If you are interested in western-style fusion Japanese food, you may try Roka in Venetian. Service is excellent there. Foodwise, I prefer authentic Japanese, but if you want fusion style, this is a good choice.
There are still many good restaurants in Macau, but I think for just 1-2 nights, this should be more than enough...