Baguio--any suggestions?

[prasantrin]

I've been searching for foodie things to do in Baguio. So far, I've discovered

some restaurant by the Ruins--old-time place which seems to be surviving on its laurels, as food reviews have been getting worse

Baguio market

A pasalubong place by the cathedral

PKNY (PNKY?) cafe

I've found quite a few suggestions for Italian food and steak, but I'm not really interested in those.

I'm looking for cakes, old-style ensaimada, and homestyle Filipino food (including breakfasts--I want tocino!).

Are there any suggestions for those types of things? I'd even take recs for Italian because even though I'm not that interested in Italian food in the Philippines, sometimes you get tired of looking for places to eat, and Italian is usually safe.

[mmerino]

I was in Baguio last week and ate at Cafe by the Ruins. It's focused on local, organic whole foods. We had the caribao(sp?) cheese salad, I had a noodle soup that was pretty forgettable my dining companion had Pork Adobo, but it was their take, crispy & shredded, weird. The interior is neat, nice paper lamps and a fire ring. It was 27 american with wine for lunch. Would I recommend it? maybe for a cup of coffee or a pastry and to check out the space. Food was just OK.

[prasantrin]

Thanks for replying! I've already gone and returned, and I forgot I had asked this!

I missed Cafe by the Ruins. On our last day in Baguio, we passed by and I remembered it had been on my list, but by then we didn't have time to go. By then I had read some unflattering reviews about the food, so I didn't mind missing it.

Our best all-round meal was Le Chef at Camp John Hay. We had the bangus belly (with all its fatty goodness) and Filipino sea bass (I really wanted the Chilean, but couldn't bring myself to order it) in a more French-style. The sea bass was good (for the Philippines), but the bangus belly was really out of this world. I love bangus belly, and Le Chef's version will forever be the best I've ever had.

Our second best meal was at Tsoko-late de Batirol--also at Camp John Hay. Excellent bbq pork (in the Philippines, when in doubt always order the pork), but I'm not sure I understand the fuss over the taba ng talangka. It was just salty and fishy, with nothing more. My mother was expecting something over-the-top, but she was really disappointed (in Thai cooking, they add more things to the taba, so it's a tastier dish). This place also has the best tsokolate I tried in the Philippines.

I had old-style ensaimada at Star Cafe. It was good, but would have been better if they had used real butter. Their pan de sal are not old-style, but they're a good version of the newer style. The rest of their food wasn't that great, though.

Misses--pretty much everywhere else we ate.

One interesting meal was at Eve's Garden in La Trinidad. While I wouldn't say all the food was excellent or memorable, the experience as a whole was really wonderful. It's reservation only, and it's only open for lunch (and only when the owners feel like opening). I would recommend it, though you need a car to get out there (our taxi charged us an additional P50 above the metered fare, and wanted P200+metered fare to wait for us for an hour and return us to Baguio!

[mmerino]

Did you only stay in Baguio or did you tour around more of Luzon? I loved Baguio, so different than the lowlands. I was actually cold on the bus ride home! You didnt miss much by missing cafe by the ruins. Its fine just not stellar. The concept is very SF/Cali in the organic/local/sustainable department. The ambiance is neat. I liked the lamps and the open porch to the ruins. It sort of seemed like it had a little bit of an identity crisis. Half of the menu was Coffee House and the other typical Filipino but with their own twist on , I think, Healthy.
http://cafebytheruins.com.ph/
"Our menu is designed to feature natural and local ingredients of the region, to purvey vegetables and fruits in their best season and to provide vegetarian options.

We are pleased to present varieties of mountain rice, mascovado sugar, fresh carabao milk and cheeses, honey, pure cacao, upland coffee, etc. - all the proud produce of the country

A meeting place and the venue of many canaos (rituals to appease the gods), the Café hosts poetry readings, art exhibits and dance performances as well."

[prasantrin]

We were mostly in Manila and Baguio. My mother lived in Baguio in the early '50s, and hadn't been back since the early '60s. Her father was one of the few Filipinos who were given a pass to Camp John Hay back then, and it was the only place outside their home where they entertained guests, so it was interesting for her to see how things had changed there. She also lived in Manila for a time, but this was the first time she had really seen the city since she left in the early '60s. Again, quite a difference!

We also did a day trip to San Fernando in Pampanga and another short trip just past Antipolo (my mother's friend has a hatchery and lechon piggery out in that area, too! But he's getting out of the piggery business). I wrote up the highlights of my Manila trip in another topic, but I can't remember the name off-hand ("Manila Report"?)

Did you see the cashews in Antipolo? That area is well-known for its cashews. I wanted to see some cashew trees, but we got back to Antipolo too late, and it was dark. We couldn't even buy cashews--couldn't find any at the night market there.

[mmerino]

What a funny, small, Balik Bayan world with the Hatchery & Pigs! The people I know are the De Jesus family. Jay De Jesus is the chef who carted us around. Cashews werent around when I was there that I noticed. Did you see any Penitents on the streets of Pampanga? I did.

I had a truly interesting/tasty trip although I was referred to as "the tall girl" by my host family & their high school friends. Good times but you really have to be ready for a trip to the PR. Travel is hard, negotiations tedious, drama and guilt, etc. AND the book I bought was waaaayyy off on price & descriptions, sadly. Its the Jens Peters book which looked so promising in the US. The food though, wow.

[prasantrin]

Being known as "the tall girl" is much better than being known as "the fat girl"! Filipinos are nothing if not direct. . .

I actually left the Philippines April 4, so I missed all the "festivities".

Yes, travel in the Philippines can be difficult. Actually, life in the Philippines can be difficult, especially if you're not one of the privileged few. This was my third time there, and I was shocked at the way my relatives (some of whom lived in the US for decades) treated their staff.

I liked the food, but I got tired of it after about a week and needed more variation. By the end of my trip, I just wanted some good pizza (which i didn't find).

[mmerino]

I ate pizza as my first meal back at home! heaven. I totally get your comments. I was also shocked by the rudeness to any server or worker. My hostess, at least, bought her wall construction workers meals, and gladly. Other folks weren't so generous/kind. I do love Filipino food but am with you in too much. I was there three weeks, I can totally identify with the need for variation. I will definitely miss the Bangus at breakfast & the fluidity of plans and time :)

[chimmy]

baguio- try mario's restaurant or the Ben Cab Museum Cafe

Pizza- try Amici-de don bosco in Makati. Italian type pizza, spinach caneloni

Filipino Food in Makati - at Milky Way and Cirkulo - Spanish (but serves the best sisig i have tried)