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Jacques Genin - best millefeuilles au chocolat anywhere?

RandyB Mar 7, 2009 06:14 AM

Much has been said in the forum about Jacques Genin and his now boutique near the pl. de la République. I`ve made several postings myself since my first visit in December, the day after it opened. More recently, I had heard their Millefeuille au Chocolat was very good. I just returned to Paris a few days ago and went to try it. In fact, it was extraordinary.

At first, I couldn`t understand why my simple order in the not-crowded café section was taking so long. In fact, they assemble each millefeuille to order, so the pâte feuilletée is perfectly crisp in all three layers. I have never had anything like it in any pastry shop or café, since it is always made ahead and sits in a fridge. The pastry will never be as light and flakey after it`s been sitting assembled with the pastry cream, even for an hour. They don`t display it in their pastry case and they try to discourage take-away orders of this one dessert.

I am an amateur pastry chef, and pâte feuilletée is my specialty..I have to say that Genin does a perfect job.

In fairness, I can`t make any comparison with the great pastry chefs in top restaurants, who may also make equally superb millefeuilles to order. I just don`t frequent those restaurants.

  1. a
    auberginegal Oct 29, 2009 07:08 AM

    from my chowhound research i discovered jacques genin and paid a visit on my recent trip in paris. the chocolate millefeuille was amazing. the white tea they served was also really nice, subtle delicate flavours and aromas. i enjoyed it so much i returned a few days later with a friend to try an eclair and the caramel millefeuille (prefer the chocolate millefeuille the best). i never 'got' what was so great about millefeuilles before, but the made-to-order variety may have ruined it for me, as i think i can't ever eat another one that isn't made that way!

    here's a photo: http://www.flickr.com/photos/aubergin...

    2 Replies
    1. re: auberginegal
      auberginegal Feb 25, 2010 05:14 PM

      i seem to have lost the name of the white tea i tried at the tea salon, and can't find anything online. wondering if anyone might know, or someone local could easily find out? if i were in paris, i'd call myself :)

      1. re: auberginegal
        souphie Feb 28, 2010 10:11 AM

        Went by today. The praliné millefeuille, among other things, is quite something. Not to mention those caramels.

        Since I was around, I checked re: white tea, and they have two -- one with Jasmine (Yé Su Xin on the menu) and one with Rose (Yué Ji Bai).

    2. c
      cigalechanta Sep 21, 2009 07:52 PM

      I visited his new shop but for his incredibly delicious mango caramels

      1. Delucacheesemonger Sep 18, 2009 08:44 AM

        Just had the passion fruit caramel, may just be the best piece of candy l have ever eaten. This shop should absolutely not missed. It is very large, not for product but for comfort. Yes the millefeuille is made to order and by the boss, no less. As a bonus the prices for chocolates seem far lower than other chocolatiers in Paris. The caramels are expensive 110€/Kg but Oh My; There are a number of tables to enjoy the teas and chocolate chaud, l will be back and as soon as possible.

        5 Replies
        1. re: Delucacheesemonger
          AGM_Cape_Cod Sep 18, 2009 09:14 AM

          We bought a kilo from Jacques Genin (actually in his kitchen) and doled them out to our friends and family. Most didn't know that the number of caramels they received were dependant upon our feelings for them. Buying in the little bags are just not the same. This seems to be the only items restricted this way I wonder why.

          1. re: AGM_Cape_Cod
            RandyB Sep 20, 2009 12:57 PM

            For some reason, the passion fruit caramels do not keep very long without a dramatic flavor loss. They recommend refrigeration for these, but not for the other caramels, and still say a week to 10 days max.

            It may be easier to maintain dates and quality control in the way they sell them in bags than by keeping them in the big bins like the other caramels. That's just a guess.

            1. re: RandyB
              souphie Sep 20, 2009 11:22 PM

              In general, nothing Génin makes is made to keep, and what you say about passion fruit caramels is true of his chocolates as well, as his difference precisely is freshness, including for cocoa beans.

              1. re: souphie
                kikisakura Oct 10, 2009 01:51 PM

                Just got my first bags of JG caramels, natural and passion/mango. Our first response after eating a few was that they are as addictive as drugs and priced accordingly.

                I was so overdosed on sugar at that point so I didn't try his millefeuilles but I will when I return.

                1. re: kikisakura
                  Delucacheesemonger Oct 10, 2009 11:53 PM

                  Actually, 'crack caramels' would be a wonderful name

        2. c
          cigalechanta Mar 8, 2009 02:12 PM

          he also makes the best fleur de sel caremals

          1 Reply
          1. re: cigalechanta
            cigalechanta Apr 22, 2009 01:55 PM

            I was there a few weeks ago with friends who love his mango caramels

          2. souphie Mar 7, 2009 06:38 AM

            That's exactly Genin's point: he offers pastry that relies on freshness the way only pastry chefs in restaurants usually can do it. As I wrote in my blog post, when asked where the good millefeuilles are, my response always was a restaurant. But now there is Génin. The same is true, to his lesser extents, of his chocolates, who are not meant to be kept beyond a few days.

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