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Place Des Vosges Area Recs

I am going to be staying near Place des Vosges near off of Rue St Antoine and was looking for some relatively low key neighborhoody recs in the area. I already have my high profile dinners planned for my stay, but I'm just looking for some bistro-ish places that you would have to live there to know about to fill in the gaps.

Also, can anyone reccomend some local restaurant review websites that I can browse? I speak french so language isn't a problem. I've been reccomended to restoaparis.com which i've looked at, but its basically like this site which isn't geographically based. I was looking more for something like menupages or citysearch where you can type in the neighborhood and find places.


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  1. Cafe Hugo and Cafe Creme are upscale in terms of the food but still reasonablly priced. Also, the Marais( parislemarais.com) has it's own web site as well. There must be dozens of great places, all within a short walk. Great area for a leisurely walkabout.

    1. Chez Jeannot (not sure of spelling). It's on the rue des Tournelles not far from the place des Vosges. Bustling atmospher, not exceptional, but honestly cooked, and with reasonably priced bistro fair. They specialise in pastis, if you're into such things, and if you stick to the house wine - cotes de gasgogne, it wont break the bank,

      1. I think you mean the very good:
        Chez Janou
        2, Roger Verlomme
        Paris - 75003
        01 41 72 28 41
        (it's set back right on the corner of
        rue Tournelles - you can't miss it)

        another local favorite in that area is the Italian:
        Gli Angeli
        5, Rue St Gilles
        75003 Paris, France
        +33 1 42 71 05 80

        1. Robert and Louise on Rue Vieille du Temple is a short walk, fairly priced and will fill a meat fix very well. If you head the other way, towards the Bastille, there is C'Amelot on Rue Amelot, used to be quite nice.

          2 Replies
          1. re: Delucacheesemonger

            Unfortunately Au C'Amelot has been closed for a couple of years and the successor is reportedly not as good. Just to the south of Pl. des Vosges is a good little text-book bistro called Les Cotelettes, formerly called l'Impasse on the Impasse Guéménée which is a short dead-end street off of Saint-Antoine.

          2. Also in the Bastille direction, I like the Café de l'Industrie a lot. It's unassuming with very decent food and also a great place to hang out.

            1. I have stayed on the rue St. Antoine near the St. Paul metro stop several times, and there are plenty of wonderful restaurants nearby. Chez Janou is one of our favorite bistros. There are 3 or 4 neighborhood places (with outdoor seating in nice weather) on the Place du Marche St. Catherine, which is half a block off the rue St. Antoine, and several more on the bordering rue Jarente , including Auberge de Jarente (which was being renovated in December 2008) and Les Bougresses (which was our alternative, and excellent). In the direction of the Hotel de Ville are Le Petit Picard (42, Rue de la Bretonnerie), Monjul (28, rue des blancs manteaux) and Les Philosophes (Rue Vieille du Temple). The rue St. Antoine also has wonderful bakeries and speciality shops, including two that have amazing terrines of fois gras and other meats (Comtesse du Barry and ??) about a block from one another, making for ideal culinary take-home treats.

              1. A storefront sort of pizzeria with fabulous wood-charred crust is Pizza Momo on Rue St Antoine. My friend & I stayed on Rue de Rivoli and walked to Pizza Momo for dinner every other night. It was so addictive and reasonable. It is 'way superior to any alleged great pizza joints in Manhattan.

                1. when i lived in that area i regularly went to Cafe des musees (corner of rue de turenne and rue st gilles) and breizh cafe (rue vieille du temple).
                  there's also a place called le petit marché that is on rue de béarn that is quite good (i've only been there for lunch, but i have a number of friends who assure me that the dinner is just as good)
                  try the fooding guide to search restaurants by area: http://www.lefooding.com/guide.htm

                  1. I don't know if it's still there, as places open and close, but there was a place right on the Place called Coconnas (2 bis, Place des Vosges - tel. 01-42-78-58-16). What drew us in was the perfume of roasting meats and the enormous rotisserie that we could see from the window. I can't remember the details now but, as long as you're going to be in the neighborhood, it's definitely worth looking into.

                    1. Walk down the rue St. Paul a couple of blocks to the corner of rue des Lions St. Paul. You'll find a small, neighborhood wine bar with very good food. It's called the Rouge Gorge. It's run by two women who owned it, sold it, and bought it back last year. Flaire is the chef and Melodie is up front. I think they are only open Wed-Sun, but I'll check next time I walk by, which is every day. I live just around the corner.

                      Of course, don't miss going to Jacques Genin - chocolaterie and dessert café. It's not that far from the pl. des Vosges. You'll find much about him elsewhere on this board.

                      2 Replies
                      1. re: RandyB

                        I'm a huge fan of Le Rouge Gorge. Found it on my own 10 years ago, went back 5 years ago and again last year and loved it each time (didn't know about the selling thing). Plan to go again next week when I'm in town. Very unpretentious, surprisingly good food and a nice wine selection.

                        1. re: LulusMom

                          Sentimental note. We took the late lamented Maurice (Chowhound star) to the Rouge Gorge because we wanted to try it. He obviously hated it and left all his food, though politely blamed that on the martinis we'd given him.

                      2. I really enjoy Ma Bourgogne and mainly go to get my fix of Steak Tartare. I enjoy sitting outside under the heat lamps. I don't know the exact address, but if you come from the direction of the Carnavalet Museum to the Place des Vosges, it's on the corner on the right, across from the Place des Vosges. Admittedly, I go for my large meal of the day and we'll sit through a long meal with wine and dessert and watch the goings on in the square. A wonderful way to spend an afternoon in my opinion.

                        1 Reply
                        1. re: vlfrance

                          I've been twice to Ma Bourgogne and would not recommend it except for the setting and and attractiveness of the place: The second time I went was last year, with some visitors who really wanted to eat at the Pl des Vosges: They liked it: I thought it was marginal at best, and the salmon couilibiac was awful. Either frozen and thawed, or sitting around too long and getting soggy.

                          Perhaps if one sticks to the uncooked items, e:g:; the steak tartare; it's fine:

                        2. Have you been yet? Am I too late? We went to Les Côtelettes, off St Antoine
                          4, Impasse Guéménée. Fresh food, from market to table, wonderful wines, friendly staff, relaxing and delicious. Cheeses that were superb and a great time.

                          1 Reply
                          1. re: NancyinNJ

                            We just went and lived a block away from the Place des Vosges... and would recommend La Petit Marche, at 9 Rue de Bearn, 2 or 3 blocks from the Place des Vosges. Since we did not have a reservation, we sat outside under the heat lamps, and the food was excellent.

                            We had the Raw Tuna with Tortilla, Saint-Pierre fish, and the Filet Mignon de Porc (my dish, and it was delish!).

                            1. I have come across just what you want: Les Cotellets. About a year ago, new people took over an old stone wall, old wood, bistro said to have been a Simenon haunt. It's between Bastille and the Place des Voges and gets an appreciative listing in Lebey. We had the 15 euro lunch formule the other day. Delicious eggs with cream, mushroom and lardons (the other first course choice that day was salad Paysanne) and pleasant beef stew with pasta and roast cod with vegetable puree. Excellent bread. Off formule dishes were fancier of course. All the otjher customers were French.
                              Les Cotelletes, 4 Impasse Guemenee. Tel (0)1 42 72 08 45. Metro Bastille or St Paul.

                              1 Reply
                              1. re: Fuffy

                                i've been wanting to try les cotelettes - they have a website http://www.lescotelettes.com/historiq... (it has an english option)

                              2. Tiny, pretty, inexpensive, new (weeks old) Moroccan restaurant and tea/coffee shop has just opened between Bastille and Place des Voges. Plat de Jour and one other dish 10.90 euros. Meals light and cooked by woman in headscarf . Take out. No alcahol just teas, coffees, infusions, and exotic fresh fruit drinks.
                                Saveurs d'Atika, 14 Rue de Tournelles, 75004. Tel 01 42 77 65 95

                                1. Any new specific additions to add to this thread? I'll be staying near Place des Voges on Rue des Tournelles the first week of September. Interested in casual lunch or dinner places (preferably where reservations aren't needed, but that's flexible). Roughly 20-30 euros per person w/o alcohol. Thanks!

                                  40 Replies
                                  1. re: Frosty Melon

                                    The Clown Bar, Les Enfants Rouges and Aller-Retour; but all three plus others must reserve at, see prior threads.

                                    1. re: Frosty Melon

                                      there's also Le Petit Marché -- not as crazy and loud as Chez Janou, but about the same price and food a little more adventurous.

                                      1. re: sunshine842

                                        Agreed and much closer than the ones I gave, open 7/7 and in August.

                                      2. re: Frosty Melon

                                        20 to 30€ is very doable for lunch, almost impossible for dinner.

                                        I'd add the very enjoyable L'Epouvantail on the rue de Jarentes just off the picture-perfect Place du Marché Sainte Catherine (whose other restos no matter how cutesy are not very recommendable). For people-watching over a cuppa or drinks with nibbles, I have become (grudgingly) a fan of the chic Café Le Français on the rue St Antoine @ place de la Bastille... but too expensive for a full meal.

                                        South of the rue Saint Antoine/ rue de Rivoli is somewhat less touristy and more local.... lots of possibilities. Even though its tiny size puts you at risk for claustrophobia, Le Temps des Cerises on the rue de la Cerisaie is a more than decent café-restaurant brimming with trad authenticity and soul ... continuous hours but full meals only available at normal meal times. The rue de Jouy/ rue Charlemagne is one of those magical Paris streets... ancient, ignored by the tourist swarms, busy with students from the two lycées during the day but at night you can hear your footsteps echoing. Métropolitain on the rue de Jouy has very good modern cuisine from a young creative chef (former Top Chef France contestant) and a very pleasing buzz (although some complain about the noise levels)... great price/ quality ratio with a 38€ 3-course dinner and an 18€ 2-course lunch. If you have an artsy side, Vingt Vins d'Art on the rue de Jouy is a combo art and music (mostly jazz) space/ wine-and-tapas bar and resto with surprisingly good nosh and a very hip clientele (including lots of very clued-in visiting Tokyo-ites thanks to glowing reviews by some French-Japanese bloggers). For something a little more trad with neo-bistro tendencies, Chez Mademoiselle on the rue Charlemagne is a very decent bistro du quartier with great prices... cuisine is not mind-blowing but the overall experience is very enjoyable (especially for us pennypinchers).

                                          1. re: allende

                                            The article is interesting but does not concern the area that the OP is talking about. The rue Vertbois is much nearer the République, on the very northern edge of the Marais. The OP is asking about - and Parn is replying to - the Place des Vosges-rue St Angoine area, which is the southern tip of the Marais. They are not even the same arrondissements. One is the 3rd, the other the 4th.

                                            Ceci dit, La Jeune Rue is indeed a fascinating-sounding project. It may or may not deliver. Since the project was announced last spring, I have made regular detours to the street, eager and hopeful about the food shops, some of which were supposed to open as early as May. Well, as Billy Wilder would put it: Nothing, no action, Dullsville.
                                            I have never seen any progress, and always end up getting an ace Banh Mi conoslation prize from Angéla not far away, or backtrack to rue Faubourg Montmartre and enjoy some delicious slumming chez Ürfa Dürüm.

                                            1. re: Parigi

                                              I'm very aware of the area, the rue Vertbois, the northern edge and rue St. Antoine. Thought it might be interesting for others to see what was going on and that it might be best posted at the end of this particular thread.

                                              1. re: Parigi

                                                Funny. I read this article this morning and thought of a Banh Mi too. If this project actually happens, it could have good repercussions for Angela.

                                                1. re: Parigi

                                                  Similar projects were started in other places. Northern Italy, I heard. Same pattern, artisan producers, later they were trapped into a financial and legal mess that they couldn't pull themselves out of. One of the producers involved in La Jeune Rue is a friend of mine and I am worried about him. I wouldn't even buy a used Dinky Toys car from the creator of the project. This all reeks of gentrification in its ugliest and most pretentious form.

                                                  1. re: Ptipois

                                                    "One of the producers involved in La Jeune Rue is a friend of mine and I am worried about him/"

                                                    1. re: John Talbott

                                                      That one too, John, but the one I'm worried about is a farmer and a producer. The other one is not on the producing end, he is also on the "urban" end, and less likely to find himself in a mess when the time comes. One who will never find himself in a mess is the creator and that's precisely part of what worries me.

                                                      1. re: Ptipois

                                                        "My main problem as a gourmet is that you can’t find really good products in Paris"
                                                        My eyes already glazed over when I read "as a gourmet", never mind the rest of the strange statement. That is a word others call you, not something you crown yourself with à la Napoleon. Who o who calls himself that ? Wait. I know who. Someone who thinks that in order to have a gourmets' butcher, not only do you need a butcher, but you need a vegetarian Memphis-Milano interior decorator.

                                                        1. re: Parigi

                                                          Yah, well, all the quotes made him sound like he's the first person who ever thought of bringing good products to we dummies in Paris. It turned me off.

                                                          1. re: Parigi

                                                            He adds: "Here, we'll bringing everything together."
                                                            I can't see how "bringing everything together in the Haut-Marais" should be changing anything to the situation. For instance, it will be dreadfully far from Neuilly.

                                                            I nearly ruined my keyboard with suan mei tang reading this:
                                                            "“Over there will be the cheesemonger, where the cheese will be hidden in designer drawers and taken out and explained.”

                                                            "Hidden"? "Designer drawers"? WTF?

                                                            1. re: Ptipois

                                                              All my life I've wanted a top-designer-drawer cheeseburger. I just didn't know it.

                                                              1. re: Parigi

                                                                This is what happens when too much money intersects with too much time on your hands.

                                                              2. re: Ptipois

                                                                As an ex-retailer, I can't put my arms around the concept of hiding what you are promoting or trying to sell. As. a visitor to Paris, I am delighted to have a magnet that will attract "that kind" of shopper away from my favorite haunts.

                                                                1. re: mangeur

                                                                  I mean, shopping for cheese that is hidden in drawers?
                                                                  The mind boggles.

                                                                  I'm afraid they could end up with no shoppers at all and there goes your magnet function.

                                                                  1. re: Ptipois

                                                                    Not hidden in drawers !
                                                                    Hidden in D.E.S.I.G.N.E.R. drawers.

                                                                    1. re: Parigi

                                                                      ...ergo "that kind of shopper". I'm not sure I could tell a real designer drawer from a fake one. Are the logos the same or are the fake ones tweaked a bit?

                                                                      1. re: mangeur

                                                                        We'll see when the cheese shop opens - or rather, we won't see.
                                                                        This will be the first maison close for cheeses.

                                                                        1. re: Ptipois

                                                                          Would that be food porn or porn food ?

                                                                          1. re: Parigi

                                                                            It will actually be a cheesy peep show.

                                                                      2. re: Parigi

                                                                        I have also been pondering over what a "designer drawer" might be.

                                                                        1. re: Ptipois

                                                                          and here all my life, I've been taught that having cheese living in your designer drawers is a bad thing.

                                                                          1. re: sunshine842

                                                                            As the B52s once sang "Why won't you dance with me? I'm not no Limburger."

                                                          1. re: PhilD

                                                            Not really Phil; the US press seems obsessed by it.

                                                            1. re: John Talbott

                                                              That's no big deal, it seems to obsess rather easily whenever French food is at stake. A bit pavlovian, as the press can be, not just in the US.

                                                            2. re: PhilD

                                                              Actually, I love the idea. As long as the quality standards are present, and that the baguettes are not hidden in designer drawers, I can't see how I could object to that.

                                                              And it is not geared to a privileged class, that's a big difference.

                                                              1. re: PhilD

                                                                If the quality of Paris Baguette in France is anything like it is in Seoul, although it will not replace a good ol' boulangerie, it will certainly replace all the bad ones, and it will be miles better than the "pommes de pain" types of places...

                                                                As for "la jeune rue", for those of you reading french, here is an interesting (and a bit scary) article about the personnage : http://www.lemonde.fr/le-magazine/art...

                                                                1. re: Rio Yeti

                                                                  Allow me to translate just one paragraph from Rio's fascinating and informative article, which confirms the following story that has been circulating in the Jeune Rue rumor mill in the past few months:

                                                                  " When in December 2012 Alexandre Cammas, founder of the Fooding guide, for ethical reasons, refused the businessman's lunch invitation, the latter was miffed. Cammas explains: "Naudon wrote to ask me to list his restaurant in the Fooding guide. Of course I refused, but he insisted. He also wanted to have his future acquisitions listed int he guide." As a joke, Cammas then suggested to Naudon to acquire Fooding, since he wanted to manage it." In an email reply, Naudon announced that his lawyer would contact him to obtain the necessary papers for a buyout."

                                                                  For this story alone, I do not want to patronize any business run by Naudon and would not advise anyone to patronize them or do business with him.

                                                                  1. re: Parigi

                                                                    Actually I think the story is even worse. Naudon tries to invite Cammas. Cammas refuses. Naudon then asks him to remove his restaurant from the Fooding guide ("pour me demander de sortir son restaurant du guide"). Cammas refuses. Naudon insists and asks that ALL his "future properties" should not be mentioned in the guide at all. Such hubris.

                                                                    It is also mentioned that he has forbidden all the persons involved in the project to communicate about it, which is not exactly typical of a transparent business aimed at regenerating a neighborhood for the common good. I've always felt very uncomfortable about that endeavor, and that is certainly not helping.

                                                                    1. re: Ptipois

                                                                      Yes you're right. I'm in a post-weekend coma this morning.

                                                                      1. re: Parigi

                                                                        I hope you partied like crazy to induce that coma.

                                                                  2. re: Rio Yeti

                                                                    Yes, I have read that article, and found it extremely enlightening — and all the more disturbing for the country producers that are involved in it. Scary is the term.

                                                                    Totally agree about Paris Baguette. I had the same idea.

                                                                2. re: Parigi

                                                                  Glancing at Ürfa Dürüm online, it does look much nicer than the average kebab place.

                                                                3. re: allende

                                                                  Sounds like he wants to create a commercial street like many others that already exist all over the city. Good products of all kinds exist in close proximity all over the city along with great places to eat nearby...