Buenos Aires/Salta trip report
Just back from a wonderful trip to Buenos Aires and the Salta region. Already dreaming about going back! To be honest, I didn't think the food in Argentina was anything to write home about. We had some good meals, but nothing special compared to NYC, Paris or even Rio. I don't eat meat, so that might have something to do with it. A couple of observations: first, the coffee is not good, which is strange because there's such an Italian influence. Second, what's with the cheese? It really wasn't good, bizarre since there's so much cattle... But a great trip nonetheless! Here's where we ate:
- Sa Giara, in Palermo Viejo. We ate lunch there on our first day, because it was right near our hotel. The outdoor seating was pleasant, but the food itself was nothing special. I had a tomato-Mozzarella salad, and my husband had a Ceasar salad that was a bit scary.
-Lo De Jesus, in Palermo Viejo. Nice decor, feels kind of old school, which we liked. I had stuffed mushrooms which weren't the greatest (scary cheese), my husband had a good steak. Very good flan for dessert. Fun, low key place for our first night, but I wouldn't rush back.
-Don Julio, Palermo Viejo. This is a great restaurant! We had a wonderfully decadent lunch there, split a bottle of wine etc. Great salads, and steak of course. My husband loved his sausage appetizer. We had a delicious figs and ice-cream dessert. Service was excellent.
-Bar Uriarte, Palermo Viejo. Excellent food, great bread, great cocktails. The outdoor area is extremely pleasant at nice. You feel like you're in Miami (which can be a good or a bad thing!)
-La Catedra, near the Botanical gardens. Had a fun lunch there on Sunday. Not the greatest food (heavy pastas), but not bad either. Great atmosphere, lots of local families having a good time.
- Divina Patagonia, San Telmo. Lovely restaurant, we were the only tourists. very nice waitress. Food is creative, but fish was overcooked. Maybe it's better for meat? I would give it another shot when I go back.
-Los Loros, San Telmo. Loved this restaurant! It's more international ( lots of interesting salads, spices, etc), than really Argentine,. Lovely decor on a pretty street. Nice to go when you're tired of steaks. Not as cheap as some of the other places. I had very good gnocchi.
-Origen, San Telmo. More of a cafe. one of the few places with good coffee. Nice, light foos for lunch. Good outdoor seating with great people watching. There's a great jelado place next door...
"the coffee is not good"
No explanation whatsoever.
Locals are so used to this stuff that it seems perfectly normal to them.
I'm tempted to send a sample to a lab, reminds me of a chicoree / roasted beans / bad coffee mix of sorts.
Not too sure re. cheeses. Pizza's mozzarella is pretty good. Reggiano not bad either.