597269 Wed Feb 18 11:52:13 -0800 2009 17 49 France 0 4429072 We've finalized our arrangements for a home swap this summer, and now I'm starting to make plans. I'll be staying in Marseille for two weeks with my husband and three kids (ages 4, 6, 8). We're planning to do plenty of day trips in the area. So looking for suggestions for all kinds of places in and around Marseille ... great boulangeries, patisseries, charcuteries, chocolatiers, bistros, brasseries, and of course, the best places for bouillabaisse! Wed Feb 18 11:52:13 -0800 2009 54769 purplescout 1 4430251 Le Petit Nice, the three star in Marseille, has great bouillabaisse. Wed Feb 18 17:13:46 -0800 2009 4429072 200097 sethd 2 4434404 It is not easy to find "traditional" bouillibasse even in Marseilles. One of the best restaurants there for this is the Michelin starred "l'epuisette which the late R. W. "Johnny" Apple raved about in the New York Times. Travel and Leisure also did a photo feature on it: http://www.travelandleisure.com/articles/tastes-of-europe/?page=2 On the Riviera itself there are several places that prepare the "traditional" dish but the few that do usually require a day or two days notice. I wrote this a year or so ago about the search for bouillibasse and what we found: http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/485636 L'Ane Rouge in Nice is another Michelin starred restaurant that you MUST request the bouillibasse several days in advance. This was an extraordinary dinner that is very difficult to find despite the many places that advertise something by the same name but, in fact, is totally different. Le Petit Nice, the three Michelin star mentioned above, notes that their version is a house specialty. This could be a truly special experience worth having. I have not experienced it but, in Marseilles, this could be my first choice. Still, the dinner at L'Ane Rouge was extraordinary...and a memory that I still have. Thu Feb 19 19:53:11 -0800 2009 4430251 12689 Joe H 1 4490173 Unusual--and, you'll see, very gratifying--choice to come to Marseille. There are so many out of the way places that are wonderful. Very busy right now, but I'll see if I can get back on the site in the next few days and give you a few ideas. What dates, by the way? Tue Mar 10 05:42:01 -0700 2009 4429072 173881 johnmarseille 2 4534767 It's taken me awhile to get back to the site, too! Last three weeks of July. Tue Mar 24 15:43:46 -0700 2009 4490173 54769 purplescout 1 4540385 I really wanted to tell you about L'Escale, Route des Goudes, 13008 Marseille. When I was in Marseille In 2003, it was mainly known to locals because it was relatively far from the prime tourist areas. Unfortunately, when I just looked it up on the internet, the description said that in 2008 they modified the menu to make it less expensive, including no longer making bouillabaisse. Thu Mar 26 09:36:36 -0700 2009 4429072 110779 RandyB 1 4541080 May I suggest a very typical Marseille institution: Chez Brun on the Vieux Port. Little know except to the locals, but worth finding... http://www.mauricebrun.fr/ Thu Mar 26 12:28:26 -0700 2009 4429072 179252 monchique 2 4543246 Maurice Brun was one of Julia Child's favorite places in Marseilles. ;) Fri Mar 27 06:58:18 -0700 2009 4541080 52499 ChefJune 1 4544153 Thanks for all the tips! Fri Mar 27 12:04:39 -0700 2009 4429072 54769 purplescout 2 4553434 Finally back on the site. Aside from the unforgettably wonderful Le Petit Nice, here are some far less expensive but really very good places: Le Café des Epices, just behind the Mairie--inventive, refined, and fun, only open at lunch, I think; Chez Dédé on the route towards Callelongue (the extension of the Corniche to the south)--feet in the water, simple, robust, fish, pizza, pure pleasure; le Ventre de l'Architect, in Le Cobusier's Cité Radieuse, imaginative, very good; Chez Vincent near the Opéra, the typical old Marseille place, best pizza in town, great; chez Toinou, rue de Rome and the Canebière, shellfish (even in July!), lively atmosphere; chez Jeannot, Vallon des Auffes, certainly honorable if not the best food in the world, but without doubt the best locaction, in this pocket-sized old fishing port , heaven on a long July evening with one or many glasses of rosé. Best places for a drink: La Caravalle, near the Maire on the Old Port, the Marseille cool down market place; going upmarket, a drink outside at the Palm Beach hotel on the Corniche can't be beat. Good luck for your visit. Tue Mar 31 03:43:32 -0700 2009 4544153 173881 johnmarseille 3 4553944 John: I had a good bouillaibaise many years ago at Chez Michel, back when it had a Michelin star and the Calypso was open across the road. What is it's current rep? Thanks. Tue Mar 31 08:07:04 -0700 2009 4553434 190827 rswatkins 3 4554917 Wow, JOhn... milles mercis for the report! Tue Mar 31 12:38:27 -0700 2009 4553434 52499 ChefJune 3 4555555 John, Merci beaucoup!! I can hardly wait to report back after we return at the end of July. Tue Mar 31 15:52:55 -0700 2009 4553434 54769 purplescout 1 4769496 Just returned from Marseille and a beautiful bowl of bouillabaisse at Le Calypso, which is right across the street from Chez Michel on Rue des Catalans. My wife and I arrived just before 8 PM on a Sunday night and had our pick from a number of tables. We chose a table that was closest to the bar area yet had a facing sea view. The service was excellent...since it was a hot day we had a bottle of white cassis as we sampled the garlic aioli and spicy (only slightly) aioli. Bread was toasted to perfection and was a sign of things to come. We both had the bouillabaisse, which was absolutely AMAZING. Definitely worth the euros we paid, even with the worsening exchange rate. This was my first time in Marseille--the bouillabaisse (which is what we came for in the first place) did not disappoint. Bon chance! Sat Jun 13 09:20:12 -0700 2009 4429072 1082921 mister_foiegras 2 4775266 Thanks for the update. I'm looking forward to some bouillabaisse next month. Mon Jun 15 14:59:16 -0700 2009 4769496 54769 purplescout 3 4822099 I'm interested in hearing how it goes for ya! Have a good trip. Wed Jul 01 13:28:17 -0700 2009 4775266 1082921 mister_foiegras 4 5036148 La Ferme, in Aubagne, has some of the best food in Provence. Very authentic provencal cooking in a beautiful setting, near the Garlaban where Marcel Pagnol was from. Their tripes provencales are the best. Thu Sep 17 01:50:37 -0700 2009 4822099 58883 jaysurf12 1 5056014 Marseille = amazing. I spent a year there, these places stick out: Chez toinou for incredible shellfish platters (not expensive, closed in august) Caravelle for drinks or casual lunches - go for an aperetif between 6-9, they will bring loads of yum snacks, try to get a seat on the balcony (tiny) For the best mint tea and north african pastries i recommend a place just outside the Alcazar library. If you are facing the library it it on the right side, on the corner of the road that leads to the Port d'aix. Don't be afraid to go in! You can sit in or buy to take out, closed mondays, not sure when ramadam is next year but it stays open doing take out only i think. Also check out the panier, cours julien and Aix. Good tagines on the corner of Rue de la Republique by the port, take out tarts from tarte julie at castellane roundabout... Thu Sep 24 14:11:25 -0700 2009 4429072 1110959 ffbyrne