Buenos Aires Colour--- Thank You Casa Saltshaker and Paula 76
- Schweinhaxen Feb 18, 2009 08:15 AM
In my post-BA post mortem, i would like to thank reviews from Casa Saltshaker and Paula 76 as they were spot on. My week in BA and Punta was fantastic, and as with any place I visit, it was sad for me to leave.
I landed on BA last Tuesday, and met up with my friend who lives next door to Guido's Bar, a fantastic revelation in which we had some small apps such as marinated seafood, pizza, salad, pasta course as a main, and dessert- scoop of soft vanilla ice cream. I had 2 glasses of the house wine and it was quite good, I wish I asked what it was, very light and fruit forward. All inclusive, with tip came out to about $25 for lunch.
That night we walked to Na Serapia also in the Palermo neighborhood. This was my first experience with Saltena cuisine. Fantastic empanadas stuffed with interesting spices such as cinnamon and pepper, tamales with creamy masa (never knew about tamales in argentina), locro- meat stew with tripe and choclo (corn). This place had the best empanada in town during my trip.
We had drinks at Bar 6 in Palermo, and then walked over to Limbo Bar around the corner.
The following day I headed to the Recoleta cemetary to view the glory of the argentinian past. I stopped beforehand at Voulez Bar for top notch medialunas. Creamy, light, sweet, and freshly baked. Superb representation of the medialuna dulce.
Lunch that day was at El Cuartito which was my favorite meal of the trip!! The fugezhetta is out of this world. I am originally from Chicago, so I appreciate good deep dish pizza. This not being deep dish, was one of the most cheesy pizzas I have eated. This is akin to a white pie since where there is no tomato sauce. Molten white cheese which i believe is provolone is paired with perfectly sweet onion and served on really soft crispy crust. WOW. We had a slice of the margarita and I thought it was ok. The best was the fugazetta.
For dinner that night, we ate at the venerable Don Julio. We ordered the morcilla (blood sausage), mollejas (sweet breads), entrana (skirt steak), bife de chorizo (sirloin steak), bife de ancho (rib eye), and the costilla (ribs). We had a nice Norton DOC Malbec to pair with the meat fest. Sides included sliced fried potato chips, calabaza (pumpkin). Served with chimichurri and salsa criolla. My favorite was the entrana which was perfectly cooked medium rare and seared with a nice char. I liked the mollejas alot, as these things are easy to cook on an open grill. Crispy, fatty, and unctuous. The ribs were overcooked and not moist and tender at all. Stick to the entrana here. Is it sacriligeous if I prefer salsa criolla instead of chimichurri on my meat? Dinner per person cost about $25 all in.
The next day, we had lunch at Bella Italia which was solid Italian food. A nice bread basked with crispy parmesan chips, my first true green salad in Argie, and a nice bowl of fettucini carbonara. It was nice lunching outside in Palermo with such pleasant weather, and attentive service.
After my trip over the weekend in Punta Del Este. We grabbed a sandwich at Mark's in Palermo Soho. Decent bife sandwich with provolone and mayo, but nothing that I would order at home. The desserts seemed very good, as we tried a carrot and orange pound cake. Lots of expats and tourists here, as this is THE happening neighborhood of BA.
One last word- Freddo. It was to me the quintisential dessert on the hot humid days of the South American summer. Dulce de leche ice cream, sabayon ice cream, chocotorta freddo were my downfall. The chocotorta something like a chocolate cake mixed with ice cream was unreal. I ate at the Punta del Este location in La Barra, but this can be found all over BA.
I hope this helps people looking for recs.
On my return to BA, I will have to visit El Obrero, Sarkis, La Cabrera, and La Miranda. I hope it will be sooner rather than later.
Hi there! Thanks for the kind acknowledgement!!! But, more importantly, I am really glad about the fact that you had a wonderful time and loved some of the places I love too! I felt the same level of nirvana after eating at 'El Cuartito' the last time and every time I've been there. Glad you liked Na Serapia; it's a true gem that not many people know about. I hope you can go back and try some of the many other excellent restaurants around...and I would highly recommend you get out of Buenos Aires (which doesn't represent the country at all) and explore places like Mendoza, Salta and Jujuy (my personal favourites) and Patagonia. Gracias otra vez por tus comentarios! Saludos, Paula
Glad to be of help and happy it all worked out well!
Don't worry about the chimichurri - it's a mistaken belief that we all eat it on steaks - for most Argentines, chimichurri is not steak sauce, it's the sauce you eat with the sausages and all the things like the sweetbreads and such, before you get to the steak. Same with salsa criolla for those who prefer it. Traditionally, the steak is eaten with just salt and pepper from the grill, nothing more added.
And while Freddo is good, next time you have to try some of the more interesting little individual spots like Scanapieco, Cadore, and Kavanagh.