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Feb 10, 2009 11:53 AM

5 Days in Umbria: Need Suggestions.

We're there in late March and we'll be based in Perugia with a car for 3 days.

For dinner, we're looking for good local eats within 30-minute drive of our base., not to mention in the city of Perugia itself.

For lunch, any suggestion in neighboring cities/towns are welcome and which we can plan to include in our daytrips.


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  1. Be sure to include a day trip to Gubbio, and have lunch at Taverna del Lupo. If you like rabbit (or maybe even if you don't) try the house specialty, Coniglio a la Taverniera. They also have a lasagne with white truffles that is especially good.

    1 Reply
    1. re: rrems

      Thanks rrems. This sounds good.
      Taverna del Lupo is penciled if we do or happen to be inGubbio for lunch.

    2. Six years ago I wrote this about Il Postale which is 60 km north of Perugia and an easy drive with one turn off of the autostrada: It has not changed: it still has a Michelin star. It is still one of the best restaurants in Italy as well as a restaurant with a great deal of character. Have I mentioned that it was once a gas station in the 1920's?!? This is their website:

      1 Reply
      1. re: Joe H

        Thanks Joe H.
        I visited the website and this looks really good adn worth evey consideration.

      2. This week I finally got around to visiting Nana' on Corso Cavour in Perugia, which another poster has often warmly recommended. It lived up to the description. A little difficult to find but worth the effort. Brand-new website

        1 Reply
        1. re: afds

          Thanks afds. It's in Perugia, where we will be based, and so it will merit utmost consideration for a dinner.

        2. Some of these suggestions may be a bit of a drive, but here are some that we love.

          In Montefalco, L'Alchemista Piazza del Commune14
          On the main square, small dining room downstairs. The mothers house made prosciutto and other cured meats are alone enough for the trip, let alone the other delicious offerings.

          In Foligno, Sparafucile Piazetta Duomo 30
          The owner is a one man show. He is chef, waiter, somelier, and above all a character.
          Also in Foligno, Il Bacco de Felice Via Garibaldi 73
          Salvatore is a show in himself. The place is a little dive . You will eat what Salvatore wants to you eat, which actually may include something he wants you to try off of a platter at a nearby table. He may also give some of your wine to someone else to try. Pricing is also according to Salvatore's whim. The food is delicious and you end up feeling as if you have been adopted into some sort of zany restaurant family.

          in Spello Eonoteca Properzio Piazza Matteotti 8

          This must be one of the most beautiful enotecas in Umbria. The owner Roberto is unmatched in his knowledge of Italian wine and olive oils.

          In Bevagna Enoteca Piazza Onofri
          A fantastic place. We went there twice it was so good. It is not the location right on the square, but down a narrow ally.

          5 Replies
          1. re: satulah

            Its a wonder that we haven't met!

            Last November we wanted to return to Salvadore's place, but after no one answering his phone for several days we were told that he was conducting cooking classes in (of all places) Napa Valley.

            So, instead, we went for the first time, to L'Alchemista in Montefalco. And after a large number of antipasti and a wonderful little plate of black Trevi asparagus lasagna, none of us were able to tackle a secondo. Fabulous.

            We, too, have enjoyed Enoteca Piazza Onofri on several occasions. In fact, we have stayed above the place in an apartment owned by the owner of EPO.

            In Spello we always lunch at La Bastiglia, a hotel at the top of town. An adventurous kitchen.

            Finally, in the area, is Taverna del Pescatore. Just off the Perugia-Spoleto road just south of Pigge, a "suburb" of Trevi. On a warm day a lunch under the big tent alongside the stream (usually with swans) is memorable.


            1. re: satulah

              Salvatore sounds like the kind of personality who is larger than life and well worth writing about in detail or perhaps as a feature on a travel program. I certainly want to experience him and his restaurant after both of your reports.

              1. re: satulah

                Thanks for the suggestions.

                That place by Salvatore in Foligno looks to be one in our must do list.

                Will also check out the Eonoteca in Spello (I am a wine nut).

                1. re: RCC

                  Salavadore was feaatured in a copy of Food and Wine mag about a year ago with pictures and all. BTW, there is not a square inch of interior wall without some grafitti. He is a local institution.

                  1. re: DaleJ

                    Here is a link to the article in Food & Wine (from September 2007) on "Il Bacco Felice":

                    I was actually in "L'Alchimista" in Montefalco yesterday for lunch -excellent!

              2. We are currently in Umbria and have been here for the last 8 weeks. Check out our web sites blog for suggestions.
                The suggestions already posted are also good.

                1 Reply
                1. re: Louie Mele

                  Thanks for the link to your blog. HIt looks really good. Have just scanned it (at work) and will have to delve deeper while in the comforts of my own computer at home.