5 Days in Umbria: Need Suggestions.
We're there in late March and we'll be based in Perugia with a car for 3 days.
For dinner, we're looking for good local eats within 30-minute drive of our base., not to mention in the city of Perugia itself.
For lunch, any suggestion in neighboring cities/towns are welcome and which we can plan to include in our daytrips.
Six years ago I wrote this about Il Postale which is 60 km north of Perugia and an easy drive with one turn off of the autostrada: http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/262143 It has not changed: it still has a Michelin star. It is still one of the best restaurants in Italy as well as a restaurant with a great deal of character. Have I mentioned that it was once a gas station in the 1920's?!? This is their website: http://www.ristoranteilpostale.it/eng/
Some of these suggestions may be a bit of a drive, but here are some that we love.
In Montefalco, L'Alchemista Piazza del Commune14
On the main square, small dining room downstairs. The mothers house made prosciutto and other cured meats are alone enough for the trip, let alone the other delicious offerings.
In Foligno, Sparafucile Piazetta Duomo 30
The owner is a one man show. He is chef, waiter, somelier, and above all a character.
Also in Foligno, Il Bacco de Felice Via Garibaldi 73
Salvatore is a show in himself. The place is a little dive . You will eat what Salvatore wants to you eat, which actually may include something he wants you to try off of a platter at a nearby table. He may also give some of your wine to someone else to try. Pricing is also according to Salvatore's whim. The food is delicious and you end up feeling as if you have been adopted into some sort of zany restaurant family.
in Spello Eonoteca Properzio Piazza Matteotti 8
This must be one of the most beautiful enotecas in Umbria. The owner Roberto is unmatched in his knowledge of Italian wine and olive oils.
In Bevagna Enoteca Piazza Onofri
A fantastic place. We went there twice it was so good. It is not the location right on the square, but down a narrow ally.
Its a wonder that we haven't met!
Last November we wanted to return to Salvadore's place, but after no one answering his phone for several days we were told that he was conducting cooking classes in (of all places) Napa Valley.
So, instead, we went for the first time, to L'Alchemista in Montefalco. And after a large number of antipasti and a wonderful little plate of black Trevi asparagus lasagna, none of us were able to tackle a secondo. Fabulous.
We, too, have enjoyed Enoteca Piazza Onofri on several occasions. In fact, we have stayed above the place in an apartment owned by the owner of EPO.
In Spello we always lunch at La Bastiglia, a hotel at the top of town. An adventurous kitchen.
Finally, in the area, is Taverna del Pescatore. Just off the Perugia-Spoleto road just south of Pigge, a "suburb" of Trevi. On a warm day a lunch under the big tent alongside the stream (usually with swans) is memorable.
I lived in Perguia for 9 weeks. The best place for pizza is definitely Pizzeria Mediterranea which is right near centro and the best gelato is Augusta Perusia right down the street from the Universita Per Stranieri. Be sure to check out Assisi and Gubbio.
you must eat in Foligno at Il Bacco de Felice...it is just wonderful and yes you will eat what Salvatore wants you to eat but it is all great!!!
i highly recommend visiting spoleto and trying osteria del matto. extremely friendly and funny (if slightly wacky) owner with fantastic food cooked by mama in the back. after a month honeymooning throughout central and northern italy, this was my favorite osteria! it even compared well to the fanciest and famous places like la rosetta in rome, osteria francescana in modena, and piazza duomo in alba.
Hi. At the risk of being too late for your trip I see that Alchimista in Montefalcohas already been mentioned in the chain. I picked up a book there called An Appetite for Umbria. (http://www.appetiteforumbria.com) which not only has a chapter on how the family set it up but tells the stories of lots of the places mentioned in this thread. It really made our holiday in Umbria and I think you'd find it worthwhile.
However what it doesn’t talk about is a place I heard about that’s run by a postman in his spare time? It’s small and I think in the north of the region. If you managed to find this (or if anybody knows of this place, is it still going, and is it worth the trip?) please let me know.