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Jan 30, 2009 03:22 PM

Excellent pizza in the beaten path

I wanted to recommend LA GATTA MANGIONA. This off-the-beaten-path restaurant is some of the best pizza I've eaten in Rome (and I've eaten FAR too many pizzas for FAR too many years). The restaurant is located in Monteverde on 30 Via Ozanam (accessible by Tram 8 which departs from Largo'd have to get off at Piazza San Giovanni di Dio) and they are only open for dinner. I ate the Parmigiano pizza--eggplant, tomato, mozzarella and parmigiano, and it was superb. My friend ate the Rustico pizza, which consisted of tomato, oregano, pecorino and onions...and while it sounds unusual, it was crispy and had just the right blend of tart (onions) and tangy (pecorino) and spice (oregano); this is what I'll be eating the next time round. What most fascinated me about the creative and extensive menu (not in English) were the pizzas that are made with wine. There was a white-wine-margarita pizza, which seemed especially appealing, and curious (maybe on round 3)...though it one of the was priciest pizzas on the menu (14). The dessert list, too, was extensive and homemade; extremely appealing was a dark chocolate pudding (which was finished by the time we ordered...11:15 PM). I must admit that the service left something to be desired, but I was impressed by the fact that they had a sommelier on duty for both beer and wine selections, and everyone was very polite (albeit SLOW and overwhelmed).

A fantastic meal and well worth every centesimo. Reservations are necessary +39 06 534 6702

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  1. Needless to say, I love the name of pizzeria LA GATTA MANGIONA. But honestly, I'm not really such a big eater!

    If I recall, Monteverde is just below Gianicolo (Janiculum), past Trastevere? There is a big hospital there, if memory serves me well... (Spent a couple of months in a lent terrace-apartment in Gianicolo, but that was 20 years ago).

    How on earth do you make a pizza with wine? Is there wine in the dough?

    1 Reply
    1. re: lagatta

      I have absolutely idea about how to make a pizza with wine...I asked the waitress and she didn't know either. I supposed I'll have to ask the chef next time round. La Gatta Mangiona serves Neapolitan style pizza (thicker crust), but I'd argue that this pizza is somewhere in between Neapolitan and's an almost perfect thickness.

    2. after a long flight, making our way to our little rental apartment on the via giulia, getting settled, etc., there's a lot to be said for a salumi platter, two pizzas and a jug or two of wine at baffetto 2. it's near the campo de' fiori. been going there for years. a decent first-night before getting back into the rhythm of the city.

      5 Replies
      1. re: steve h.

        steve h, where do you go when you've gotten back into the rhythm of the city? And ildente, was it a weekend night that was so overwhelming for the staff?

        1. re: andhollis


          it's all pretty local for us now. pierluigi, ditirambo stand out as places i get a reservation but, for the most part, we just pop into local joints that would never make it onto chowhound. trimani is our favorite wine bar. we shop every day at the market and try to have a few meals on our terrace. drinks on the terrace at 4 p.m. are mandatory. even when it rains.

          it's hard to get a bad meal in rome. it's equally hard to get a great one. my modest advice is to just walk your neighborhood and pop into whatever place "speaks" to you. you'll be pleasantly surprised. pop back in a second time and you'll make a chef/owner very happy and you'll be treated like family. and that is very cool.

          1. re: andhollis

            friday night...though apparently it's often busy at la gatta mangiona (hence the need for reservations). i'd still say that the pizza's good enough to justify the underwhelming service. as for baffeto 2, i'm not that big a fan as i find their crust a bit too dry.

          2. re: steve h.

            We were in Rome over the holidays and also had great pizza from baffetto 2 on our first night in Rome. I thought the porcini pizza was one of the best I had during the 8 days we were there.

            1. re: maestrette

              it's a cool place: raucous to some, comfortable as an old pair of shoes to me. it sets me up for my stay.