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Taqueria Geovani, 1285 Castleton, SI

Flaco Jan 12, 2009 11:21 AM

On the suggestion of "comestible" I decided to give this place another try after a mediocre experience severals years back. Since then, they have changed owners and have improved greatly. I had a very nice pozole in a spicy broth with a hearty mixture of hominy and shredded pork and topped with fresh lettuce and avocado. Some obreros at an adjoining table were enjoying large platters of carne asada, chili rellenos (half size little devils) and chiliquillas, the only meal they'll need for a week I'm sure. The menu has some interesting items for the adventurous namely steamed maciza (cow's head) and ojo (eye) that's ready to fill a taco or three. You can also get a suspiro de monja (nun's sigh) or chupacabra torta, one can only guess what that involves but someone has a sense of humor. Definitely worth some more trips.

  1. Flaco Mar 30, 2009 12:12 PM

    Sad replying to my own post but this place deserves the love. Today I had a fiery caldo de olla which is basically a beef and vegetable chunky soup in a red broth... it came with freshly made tortillas which was a nice surprise. Other tables were enjoying braised oxtail in a salsa verde served with rice topped with a couple of fried eggs. La duena is from Michoacan and I think it shows in her pozole, etc. Try it for lunch and order from the board outside, you can't go wrong. This place is fueling all the auto body work places in the area and these fellas love to eat!

    1 Reply
    1. re: Flaco
      c
      comestible Mar 31, 2009 07:21 PM

      I'll keep you some company here! I think I've only had a chance to get over there once more since I suggested it to you. IIRC, I had a tasty mushroom quesadilla.

      My learning about Mexican food started in San Francisco some 30 years ago, and it was a rather different style of cooking...Californicated, possibly. And continued with the usual commercial Mexican restaurant food elsewhere, much of which isn't very good.

      So here I am in Staten Island, confronted by a variety of suddenly authentic Mexican food, as it is really done by transplanted Mexican folks. I'm both delighted to learn what it's really like, and a bit challenged by (compared to what I've had) the meat-heavy menu. Poor me, being a vegetarian! I'm a bit reminded (but to a lesser extent) of the Argentinian restaurants where there's virtually nothing for me to eat.

      I'll certainly be back, and will enjoy whatever vegetarian morsels I can get! And I'll turn my wife, a committed omnivore, to the place for sure. Meanwhile, I adore the Mexican delis as well, and cook Mexican often at home. Last night: chard and queso fresco enchiladas with broiled tomato/chipotle sauce. Yum!!

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